I’m scrolling through Reddit tonight and seeing a lot of litter box posts, so here are my quick tips if you’re struggling with litter box issues.

1. TAKE THE CAT TO THE VET. I don’t care if you “think it’s behavioral.” This is always, always, always the first step.

2. Where are your boxes located? Are they in a dark corner of the basement? Would you buy a 3-story house where the only bathroom was in the basement? Of course not. You should have one per floor, in a private but not isolated spot. Multiple cats? Issues between cats? Multiple options, spread out is key to allow the cats to have boxes away from each other.

3. How many boxes do you have? You should have one box per cat, plus at least one extra. Two boxes placed next to each other counts as one box, sorry. Spread those boxes out!! No clumping of resources.

4. How often do you clean the box? Scoop once a day, minimum, and fully dump the litter and scrub the box with soap and water at least twice a month.

5. What’s in the box? Unscented, clumping clay litter is what MOST cats prefer. Stay away from pellets or crystals. They can be sharp or unpleasant on cat paws. Depth should be 2-3 inches in general.

6. What size is the box? It needs to be big enough that your cat can turn in a complete circle without touching any walls. Most commercially made litter boxes are too small. Bigger is better, people.

7. Covered or uncovered? There are exceptions to every rule, but if you don’t like pooping in a port-a-potty, why would your cat? Covered boxes are statistically cleaned less (out of sight out of mind) and retain stink inside. They’re also almost always too small.

If your cat is peeing/pooping right next to the box, it’s probably a problem with the box.

If your cat has one preferred pee spot not near the box, it’s probably location.

If your cat is peeing on your bed, laundry, or couch, it’s probably stress.

If your cat is peeing everywhere, it’s probably medical.

If your cat is peeing vertically (spraying) on walls, doors, and windows, it’s probably territorial marking.

Also, there are many cat behavior professionals out there (myself included) that handle litter box cases virtually. You can hire them! Many people still do not realize this resource exists.

This has been litter box 101. Thanks for coming to my talk.

As a working cat behavior consultant, I repeat myself over and over again every day. I have compiled this list of some of the things I end up talking about the most.

1. If your cat is constantly begging for food, they’re hungry. Increase the frequency of meals to at least 4x a day and calculate how many calories they’re getting. An average 10 pound cat needs around 250 to maintain weight.

2. Don’t fall for the gimmicky litter or litter box. Your cat doesn’t want a Litter Robot or Pretty Litter or whatever. You do. 9/10 cats prefer a simple uncovered box with clay litter.

3. If you own multiple cats, your house needs to look like multiple cats live there. I know as soon as I enter a home if the cats are fighting or not based on the number of cat trees, beds, toys, feeding stations, litter boxes, etc.

4. I can tell you with 99% certainty that your cat is not displaying dominance with whatever behavior he is doing.

5. Play with your cat at least twice a day for at least five minutes. Even if your cat is just watching the toy, they’re playing. It counts.

6. The Jackson Galaxy cat introduction method does not work consistently enough to even be relevant. I could (and do with my clients) spend 90 minutes explaining exactly why and what to do instead.

7. Your cat can be trained to do anything using positive reinforcement. This includes cooperating for taking medication, having their nails trimmed, and going into a carrier. Punishment is primarily not effective because it doesn’t teach the cat good behavior. They don’t learn what they’re supposed to do instead.

8. The answer to your problems is ALMOST never to add another cat. It does help sometimes, sure. But often you just create more problems.

9. Cats thrive when given choices and they have a sense of control over their own lives. Use a consent test every time you interact with your cat (hold your hand out and wait for the cat to close the distance). Voila. You no longer get bitten during petting.

10. Learn body language, learn body language, learn body language. You’ll thank me.

Let me know if you have questions, and feel free to suggest your own!

Hi everyone, I hope this post can help other cat guardians who lost their cat (LC hereafter), as I know how terribly gut-wrenching the whole ordeal is. After the first 14h spent outside searching for him I found a pet detective agency and paid 120€ to get a personalised plan to raise our chances of finding him. I would like to pass the knowledge on, so please know this is going to be a long post (and a bit of a rambly one).

Milo is 1, all set with shots, chipped and indoor-only. He fell down our 1st story window while frantically chasing a bug between the 20th and 21st of June, around midnight. Surrounding us there is a bit of everything, regular houses, holiday/abandoned houses, houses under construction and lots of greenery such as meadows, random bushes, woods. We are not from the area.

​

• Try to be as calm and collected as you can: I started screaming his name cause I was panicking, this automatically transferred onto my cat, who started running around and eventually fled. Try to behave like falling/jumping is not something big (I know, I know) and call to your kitten soothingly.
• Ask for help but only for the first 12h: strangers' help can be beneficial within the first 12h after the disappearance, thereafter it is better to go solo. Only those LC knows and trusts should search for him, in our case that meant my bf and I. Don't engage too much with neighbours, LC might be watching you from its safe spot and thinking strangers are a threat.
• Perimeter: I promise LC is not far off. You might have some time before LC enters silent stage, in this case delicately call out for him and pay attention to sounds around you. Indoor cats do not know where they are, so they will find a safe spot where to hide. Check every corner, garage, vase, patio, engine compartment, umbrella racks, pipes, shed, tree, bush etc etc. When sure LC isn't on the property, take out a map and draw a perimeter by going 400m in every direction from your point zero (disappearance spot - i.e. your place/last sighting spot).
• Flyers/signs: few words (missing cat - 1 pic - breed - fur colour/s - reward - desperate family - contact number); do not specify when or where LC disappeared (counterproductive!), do not write too much nor how much the reward is (people could chase LC to cash it in). Get in touch with vets, shelters, feline colony ladies, give A5 flyers to immediate neighbours and print A4 for shops and for light poles. A4 should ideally be hung far away as well (our furthest point was a vet clinic 40km away from us). Alert your local state/regional healthcare/vet institution if you have any (the authority keeping track of chipped animals if relevant). Local fb groups are your friends!!
• Silence Factor: cats can remain hidden without eating, drinking nor meowing for a long time (usually 1 to 12 days, though the pet agency registered a cat found in this condition after 24 days - a trooper). When in this stage, LC is on par with a lost object: this is called SILENCE FACTOR, something cats do to protect themselves. They won't answer your calls nor the sound made by shaking their fave kibble bag.
• Silence search: cover as much area (see perimeter) by calmly and slowly looking for LC, a good rule of thumb should be "10 steps - cat's name - wait 3 mins" repeat. Try to be clear and soft-spoken. If you go around by night, (let neighbours know so they don't call cops on you), swap that iPhone flash for a regular torch (I haven't been told why but still).
• Target cat: if you have a cat that is close to LC, put it in its carrier and leave it where you last saw LC, supervise the situation and see if LC pops up. Not all cats are suitable for such a stressing role - our female isn't - so if this isn't a viable option, just register your other cat meowing and interchange it with LC's name while silent searching. Playing this helped us IMMENSELY.

Always keep a carrier, a blanket and gloves with you! I'd add kibbles/treats to that, but it depends on the situation LC is found in.

Some items you might find useful are endoscope cameras to check pipes.

What I've described here is really just the the tip of the proverbial iceberg, to mainly try and gather info on LC's whereabouts. I can't tell you how long it will take before you find/see LC, what I know is that you have to put in lots of work (close to 10h/day, to be divided among all activities listed here, not only spent searching outside) and yet you should try sleeping and eating regularly - don't be like us! - 'cause you risk a burnout: you should aim at staying operative for up to 30 days. I'd like to think that the more you do, the better the result, but who knows.

If anyone might be interested in part 2 (from handling sightings, confining & monitoring, to trapping LC) I'll re-read the material I was provided with and provide.

I really hope this post can help someone else.

So there's a lot of cat trees out there that look like they are made by people who have never actually lived with a cat or interacted with one. Here are my thoughts, after much research of my own when buying one

First of all;

This does not apply to every cat, rather a general guide. If you know your cat freaking loves hammocks no matter where they are, then get a cat tree with a hammock. If you don't know if your cat likes hammocks or not... the answer is "probably not"

If you know your cat is small/lightweight, you will be less concerned around things like the size of the base or the size of the platforms. Likewise if you have a Maine Coon or one of those massively muscled bengal boys, you want to pay more attention.

Look for a cat tree that has

• a minimum of frippanty, bells, and whistles. This stuff isn't BAD, but 90% of cats will ignore it all or break it quickly, so falls under "probably don't waste your money. Generally includes dangly balls, houses/hides (unless large), the side arm bowl things, hammocks, ladders (they're usually too steep to use and short enough that jumping is easier)
• a large base (so a cat on the top can't topple it over)
• large platforms, at least one or two high ones that are big enough to lay on
• height! That's the point of a cat tree! If it's only three feet tall, it's just a fancy scratch post folks
• If it's a velvety fabric, it's not a scratch post. They will only scratch the parts with sisal rope or rough carpet. You don't need to have your cat tree double as a scratch post, but many people like them to.
• seems sturdy! If the top platform starts wobbling because it's made from particle board held together with a wooden peg, the cat will not use it.
• The exception to all of this is kittens. Kittens are too light to topple a cat tree, can't jump high but can haul themselves up a steep ladder, are small enough to fit in side bowls, tiny platforms, and little houses/hides, and will probably even play with the dangly balls. The average person wants a cat tree that will suit their cat for more than a few months, but if you foster kittens or something by all means go out and buy the most tricked out cat tree on amazon dot com.

https://imgur.com/a/spPK1r9 There's one of the crappy ones you'll find on amazon, with a handy guide to why I think it's a terrible cat tree. There are good ones on amazon though, especially if you're on a budget.

https://www.cozycatfurniture.com/image/cache/cat-tower-10-scratching-posts-1000x1000h.jpg

In contrast, there's one with some useless frippantry but I would still call a quality cat tree. Those dangly balls are horribly placed (where exactly is the cat going to sit to bat at the high one?) and those tiny ladders will never, ever be used (if a cat is too injured, arthritic, or lazy to jump, they will also not be able to use ladders so steep). But the base is big enough, it looks very sturdy, there are big, high platforms to lay on, the sisal rope and carpet are both appealing for scratching.

https://www.cozycatfurniture.com/image/cache//four-tier-hardwood-cat-tower-scratcher-1000x1000w.jpg

This one? Fantastic. Amazing. Big platforms to lay on, arranged so it's easy to jump from one to another. Tall. A base that makes it very difficult to impossible to topple, and super sturdy and well made. Flat and angled surfaces for scratching. The only change I would make is to wrap at least one post with sisal rope to give a vertical option for scratching.

Basically, think of cat trees like kids toys. The best ones are simple, sturdy, leave room for the imagination/free play, and can be used many different ways to do many different things.

I’ve seen a decent amount of posts that are along the lines of “my new cat won’t come out from this room/under bed/any other secret hiding spot” or about a new cat not seeming affectionate, etc.

So I just wanted to say, take your time, take a breath, you’re doing a great job! Your new kitty has a lovely home and I promise they are forever grateful even if you can’t see it yet.

Your cat is in a new space, with new sounds, new humans, new smells, new everything! I can definitely say as a human being in an unfamiliar place with unfamiliar people makes me uncomfortable. Your cat will need plenty of time to get used to all of those things, and while they are doing so they may seem a bit standoffish. Don’t worry.

What encouraged me to write this is the sweet kitty I adopted just under a year and a half ago. She took her time getting to know me, my resident cat, my home and the smells here. I expected this so I wasn’t overly concerned. What really struck me though is around the year point- she became a totally different cat! That’s how long it can take your cat to really sink in to being fully comfortable and developing their routine. I always just assumed she wasn’t a lap cat, well now she’s on my lap or by my side pretty much always. She’s my little shadow. I could always tell she loved me, she’s always liked pets. But it did take her a while to decide she liked snuggles too! She also was in a safe room for acclimation and once she was out free she often still slept in that room, she sleeps in my bed now with my resident cat every night. This also happened around the one year point. She also used to be incredibly hyper and playful... like sometimes in a destructive way. She’s hit age 2 now AND she knows everything about this house. She’s much less destructive and I believe it is because she IS more comfortable and she now knows the house, her toys, etc. less wonder than when she first arrived and everything was so new.

Anyway, my point here is that some cats take a very long time to fully acclimate. If your six months down the line and your cat still hides under the bed sometimes, that’s ok. Give your cat space and time. Don’t push them, don’t force it. Your tiny little creature is discovering a big new world and it may take some time for them to fully settle in. Let them do their thing, you’re not doing anything wrong and you’re a wonderful cat owner for being concerned but in most cases, you probably don’t need to worry!

Ok, that is all. Thank you for coming to my Ted talk.

As a veterinary worker and cat caretaker, I am shocked by how many people either do not have enough carriers for their cats or have poorly sized ones. Not to mention there are many carrier designs I hate, but having one is better than trying to carry an angry cat around in your arms.

You should never be transporting multiple cats in a carrier once they’re about 6mo or older, and especially when going somewhere stressful like the vets. Cramming two adult cats in a carrier may seem okay if they’re not fighting, but it’s very frustrating for vet staff trying to work with one at a time. And sometimes we need to perform a procedure that may leave a cat irritated or they have to wake up from anesthesia and it’s usually done in their carrier, but when we have to put two cats in one suddenly things are difficult when they don’t need to be.

Also consider sizing. Your cat should be able to fit in the carrier and turn around without being shoved in. Alternatively, an oversized dog crate creates its own issues as it leaves your cat less secure during handling and just plain takes up a ton of space for no reason. Carting around a dog carrier half my height just to treat a cat is a hassle, and I can feel the cat inside falling all over as we move.

The best carriers are hard sided and have a front and top opening for easy loading, access, and treatment. My top preferred carrier designs are:

1. This one (or anything similar with hard sides and front/top opening)

2. or this one (no top opening but top comes off)

3. Sherpa soft carriers are good too

4. these are ok-ish

Please avoid carriers that: require you to unzip the entire thing to get the cat out, are those weird triangular ones, foldable flimsy ones, only have a front door and no ability to unscrew/remove the top.

Wall of shame of worst carriers:

• I HATE THESE

• possibly the worst kind

• maybe fun for a walk but not for the vet’s

• maybe ok for travel but again, NOT the vet’s

• the actual worst ones that just have one zipper for the whole bag and when you unzip it the whole thing just falls open THE WORST

A carrier may be the last thing on your mind and people often pick carriers that are stylish or easy to store, but you need to consider emergency situations and your cat’s safety. If you do not have enough and/or proper carriers yet, please get one ASAP before it’s too late.

A sincere thank you from all veterinary stuff who wish to take care of your kitties as best as we can!

TL;DR Make sure your vet does a thorough teeth check and consider starting tooth gel/water additive as soon as you can!

My gorgeous, six year old cat has always been the paragon of health and vigor, and is so friendly and cuddly that she runs to the door to greet guests!

So we never would have known just how sick she was between her behavior and past vets’ evaluations.

In 2020, right before the pandemic hit NYC, I took my cat to our so-so vet who had just started saying “she might need a dental cleaning.” The equivocation here, combined with research that told me this was going to be a $2k endeavor, led me to think this was going to be something for the near future, but not emergent.

Cue the pandemic and my fiancé’s losing his job and working his butt off to find another. His new employer offered a discount plan (pet insurance alternative) called Pet Assure, and since it would cover 25% of a dental cleaning despite her condition being preexisting, we opted in and switched to a vet on their network.

This was the best thing we could have done. I asked this vet for a second opinion on the dental, and she pointed out that my cat had one visible resorptive lesion (Cats’ jawbones try to absorb infected teeth, which is exquisitely painful and dangerous for the jaw!) and we absolutely needed to go in within six months.

Imagine my — and the vet’s — astonishment when she did x-rays and anesthesia yesterday and found NINE critically broken or infected teeth. She said she was amazed my cat wasn’t visibly very sick indeed. My cat is now missing all of her top front teeth; both canines and all of the incisors needed to go and were ready to crack!

~$2k later (with the 25% discount; remember this is NYC though), we have effectively purchased additional years of much higher quality of life for my dear one.

In my cat’s case, she has bad genes (she is likely inbred, having been a rural stray in a high-kill shelter) and is prone to resorption. So even if we had been toothbrushing, we would still have needed to go in and remove the teeth. That said, we are definitely starting her on Veterinary Oral Health Council approved daily enzymatic gel to preserve her remaining teeth!

We also got very lucky this happened when we could afford it, since my fiancé and I were both Ph.D. students when we adopted our cat. Depending on where you live and how much needs to be done, dental procedures can cost $200-2000. I knew going in we needed a small bit of savings to even own a cat, but looking back, I would have done Pet Assure or insurance even sooner!

My stepsister fosters cats and one of them went missing. We’re guessing this happened when they were in the backyard and she hopped the fence. (My stepsister now knows leaving them unsupervised backyard was a bad idea and keeps the other cats inside or on a leash if outside).

We searched the area, checked with local shelters, hung up missing fliers around the neighborhood, and made social media posts about it. However, it’s been weeks and we still have not found her. She is chipped, but it would only be detected at a vet scan. We cannot track her through the chip. I’m hoping another person found her and just hasn’t taken her to a vet yet. But I’m starting to fear the worst.

The cat is very skittish since she’s a rescue, and she was just starting to get comfortable around me when I visited. I’d started to get attached to her, so it’s disheartening that she’s lost. Especially, since I don’t know what happened to her. The more time that passes the more worried I am that she might be dead. Though I pray that isn’t the case.

Any advice or comfort would be welcome.

My long hair cat has fleas I’ve treated her but today I sprayed my whole house and sprayed her beds, cat trees and cardboard bed but I read on the back don’t spray on where they sleep and now I’m freaking out, will she be okay? I’ve had the windows open and this is the spray I used: https://amzn.eu/d/01Ad8Q6g

After trying new litters every 1 month since getting my first cat, Toula, in February, here are my ratings and general notes.

For reference...

Her litter box is contained in a piece of furniture with holes in the bottom to collect fallen litter immediately after she exits, so my tracking ranking is with that setup.

We scoop twice a day, before bed and in the morning. We were looking for a litter that traps the poop smell FAST since the litterbox was right at our entryway, near the kitchen and office (small apartment). I only wanted unscented options. Ideally, the litter would last 3+ weeks to limit any waste with full box changes.

• Okocat Regular wood
  • Clumping: 3/5, gentle shakes to avoid small clumps to break away
  • Siftability: 3/5, large granules need larger holes
  • Tracking: 4/5, 4+ feet
  • Dust: 4/5, more dusty as it ages
  • Pee neutralization: 5/5 
  • Poop neutralization: 3/5, not great, pieces were too big to trap turds completely, better as it got older and more dusty 
  • Longevity: 5/5, still going strong after 4 weeks, more and more powder near the end made it better at covering poop smell
  • Cost: Affordable (since it lasted so long)
  • Overall, my favorite of the natural options. The smaller grain would probably work better as far as the poop neutralization, but would definitely track farther. I found the pine smell nice and the light weight very convenient.
• Frisco tofu
  • Clumping: 5/5
  • Siftability: 2/5, difficult, the pieces are thick and long (pidan much smaller, maybe try that)
  • Tracking: 5/5, practically none
  • Dust: 5/5, none
  • Pee neutralization: 5/5, but the weird vanilla smell of the product is unpleasant
  • Poop neutralization: 1/5, pieces were way too big to trap turds
  • Longevity: 4/5, had it mixed with Okocat, but seemed to absorb more litter per pee
  • Cost: Expensive
  • Overall, if I found a cheaper option with smaller grains that could trap the poop better, I may be convinced to try again. Toula didn't seem to like it as much either since the pieces were so large and heavy and hard to dig through.
• Naturally Fresh Probiotic Clumping walnut
  • Clumping: 2/5, don't scoop pee right away, gentle shakes to avoid small clumps to break away, maybe fast clumping formula would be better?
  • Siftability: 5/5
  • Tracking: 2/5, 10+ feet
  • Dust: 2/5, don’t feel like I’m breathing it in but poofs up when scooping
  • Pee neutralization: 5/5
  • Poop neutralization: 3/5, okay, pieces are small and dehydrate well, but don't quickly trap poop smell
  • Longevity: 4/5, lots of little clumps that are difficult to remove soil the litter more quickly, but still lasted a good 3 weeks
  • Cost: Affordable
  • Overall, worked fairly well, but didn't like the dark color, dust, and tracking.
• Smart Cat grass seed
  • Clumping: 4.5/5, sticks a bit to the bottom but comes up clean
  • Siftability: 5/5
  • Tracking: 2/5, 10+ feet
  • Dust: 5/5, none
  • Pee neutralization: 4/5
  • Poop neutralization: 3/5, moist poop smell, doesn’t trap odors well
  • Longevity: 3/5, the clumping means it stays clean, but it starts to stink after 2.5 weeks
  • Cost: Somewhat Affordable
  • Overall, clumping was great, but my litter genie bag was MOIST. It did not dry out very well and smelled pretty funky after 2 weeks.
• Sustainably Yours Mixed Grain corn & cassava
  • Clumping: 5/5, fantastic, quick, no little bits after sifting
  • Siftability: 5/5, so fast since it is so small
  • Tracking: 2/5, like cornmeal, 10+ feet
  • Dust: 5/5, no dust at all
  • Pee neutralization: 5/5, light color useful for monitoring pee
  • Poop neutralization: 4/5, smaller grains cover poop fairly well, doesn't dehydrate well 
  • Longevity: 2/5, starts smelling a little poopy after 2 weeks
  • Cost: Expensive
  • Overall, this litter was pretty great, all things considered. The little grains all over the floor were annoying though and also started to smell after 2 weeks, even though it looks clean still. For the price and how well it clumps, I would expect it to last longer.
• World’s Best Multicat corn
  • Clumping: 4/5
  • Siftability: 5/5
  • Tracking: 3/5, 8+ feet
  • Dust: 4/5
  • Pee neutralization: 1/5, weird sweet smell
  • Poop neutralization: 0/5, didn’t cover or dehydrate the poop smell at all
  • Longevity: n/a, stank too bad for me to use it more than a day
  • Cost: Expensive
  • Overall, the worst. I tried this after my first batch of clay to give natural one last try. The sickly sweet corn smell mixed with the poopy fumes was too much, and even after 4 hours, the litter still hadn't covered up the smell.
• Odorlock clay
  • Clumping: 3/5, don't scoop pee right away, gentle shakes to avoid small clumps 
  • Siftability: 5/5
  • Tracking: 3/5, 8+ feet
  • Dust: 5/5, no dust
  • Pee neutralization: 5/5
  • Poop neutralization: 5/5, covers smell immediately and dehydrates very quickly
  • Longevity: 4/5, little pee clumps make it dirty a bit more quickly than I'd like
  • Cost: Affordable
  • Overall, if you have a local supplier like I did before I moved (so sad), this is a fantastic option. Clay dries up the poops so fast and the box smells like nothing for so long. This had no dust and was fantastic.
• Dr. Elsey's Premium Clumping Cat Litter
  • Clumping: 3/5, don't scoop pee right away, gentle shakes to avoid small clumps 
  • Siftability: 5/5
  • Tracking: 3/5, 8+ feet
  • Dust: 3/5, somewhat dusty, poofs up a bit when sifting
  • Pee neutralization: 4/5
  • Poop neutralization: 5/5, covers smell immediately and dehydrates very quickly
  • Longevity: 4/5, little pee clumps make it dirty a bit more quickly than I'd like
  • Cost: Affordable
  • Overall, I landed on this litter for good since it is widely available where I am. If it wasn't so dusty, I would be absolutely thrilled.

If you have any other experiences, feel free to share!

What Breed Is My Cat?

First of all, the answer is most likely “no breed”. Cats don’t have breeds the same way dogs do. Most dogs are the result of crossing different pure breeds – even several generations down, the branches of their family tree will mostly end in specific breeds.

Cats breeds don’t work like that. Think of it this way:

For a long time, there was only Cat. No breeds. Then, someone went “Let’s make cats with flat faces”. They took some cats with flat faces, and bred them to each other, and the offspring to each other, and made Persians. But the majority of cats were still just cats.

Some other people went “hey these cats have something interesting going on, look they have short legs”, took them inside, and created the munchkin cat breed. But all the other cats outside are still just cats.

Occasionally someone is a bad owner and doesn’t get their Persian fixed and he knocks up some regular cat, and the babies are half Persian, and their babies are a quarter, etc etc. It does happen.

But with an estimated 95% of cats in the world today being No Breed cats, if you have a cat with a kinda flat face, it’s much more likely that it’s just a cat whose face is Just Like That, rather than a Persian descendant.

Now let’s talk about what’s a breed and what is a colour.

Not breeds: Orange tabby, calico, tabby, tuxedo/tuxie. These are colours. Despite popular stereotypes, colour has no effect on personality, energy levels, or anything except the colour of the cat’s fur. “orange cats are all dumb and friendly” is no different than “blonde girls are all shallow airheads”. It’s just fur colour.

Colourpoints is not a breed! This colour is not a breed. This is a colour mutation that can be on any cat, and is common in many breeds including the Birman, Himalayan, Ragdoll, Bengal, and more. There are also versions such as Lynx Point (the darker areas are striped), and calico point. Having colourpoint markings does NOT make your cat a Siamese, though it may mean that at some point in their bloodline they had a purebred ancestor who had colourpoints.

Whisper Paws Riya Parvati, a purebred Himalayan girl.

Queen Sadie Lin of Classic Jewels Siamese, a purebred Saimese girl.

No one would call these two the same breed, right?

Now, some visual elements are rare enough that they are pretty common to one (or a few) specific breeds.

The rosette spotted pattern is pretty exclusive to bengals, though this is usually the first thing lost with Bengal crosses. The unique hair of a Cornish rex, or the folded ears of Scottish folds, or the leg mutations of munchkin cats, are fairly unique. While it’s not impossible for your cat to have this element and have zero relation to this breed (random mutations happen, or a breeding coincidence similar to what produced the breed in the first place) it’s a significantly better sign than most

Does it matter?

With dog breeds, temperament is a large part of the breed and you learn to expect things from, say, a Labrador vs a Chihuahua. This is much less true for cats.

Some things like grooming needs, yes. You will spend a lot of time brushing your long haired cat. You will spend no time brushing your Cornish Rex. Your Sphinx will need special care for their skin, no fur doesn’t mean no work.

Energy levels, yes. Bengals are well known for being a very high energy, high stimulation breed. Ragdolls are well known for being lazy and floppy.

Behaviour, no. Genetics doesn’t make your Bengal fetch (goodness knows ours refuses to) or your ragdoll want to be picked up. The easily bored Bengal is more likely to agree that fetch is a fun game to keep their mind busy and their blood pumping, thus the stereotype. Plus, Bengal owners are usually aware of the stereotype and thus much more likely to teach their cat to fetch.

If you want a sweet, cuddly cat, your best bet is to go to your local foster-based shelter/rescue, explain in detail what you are looking for, and let them place you with an adult cat whose personality is already well formed. Failing that, get a well-raised kitten, from an experienced foster home, who has been handled since birth (but know that’s still never a guarantee of cuddliness when they are an adult). The biggest determination of whether a cat will like to cuddle, sit in your lap, or be picked up is being well raised in a home where they are handled regularly.

Specific cat breeds do not need specific care, and you are better off treating your cat as an individual, not a breed. If your cat has crazy high energy levels, whether they’re a Bengal or a uniquely demanding tabby, the treatment is the same – more exercise!

All cats benefit from quality food, involved playtime, and interesting things to stimulate their mind. You still need to play with your ragdoll. It doesn’t matter if your cat is a Persian or a No Breed who happens to have long hair, either way you’d better be brushing.

What about cat DNA tests?

They’re better than the human DNA tests in the sense that there are significantly more “pure” sources of DNA than humans, so it’s likely more accurate in that sense. It’s less accurate as, again, 95% of cats are No Breed at all so your cat is likely to be 75% No Breed and 25% whatever mix of improperly kept purebreds.

If it’s an aimless curiosity, I mean, go ahead. Unlike human DNA tests, it is unlikely to be harmful down the road as companies sell DNA and related information. Here's one person's experience using a cat DNA company.

If you are looking for health information, a breeder test like Optimal Selection may be a better fit.

Note I don’t really endorse genetics testing unless you’re a breeder, I don't recommend any company, and I think the general thing is pretty silly. Do your own research! The thing is, even if you do find genetic risk markers in your cat’s DNA, most of them have no treatments or cures and knowing this won’t change anything in your kitty’s life. Genetics tests are used by breeders to know which cats to remove from their breeding program.

A fun alternative: Learning about colour genetics

I’ve been diving into cat colour genetics recently, and it’s been a lot of fun. Learning the proper words for different elements of your cat’s coat. We used to call Deb a grey tabby. Now we know she’s a blue, broken mackerel tabby with the smoke gene. Calico and tortie genetics get WILD. Messy Beast is the site I’ve been reading. And, unlike breeds, colour genetics is easily accessible as all cats have a colour pattern, and it's based entirely on what you can see (until you get into carried genes, but you're not a breeder so it doesn't matter)

So yeah, I'm very very new to being a cat dad, I adopted my calico lily 2 weeks ago and she's 4 weeks old now.

One thing I noticed is that she spends a lot of time on my laptop, she loves watching me consume any kinda content it's adorable but I'm sure you get where I'm going with this - she mashes keys and ends up opening up 1000 tabs or closing whatever she was interested in.

I was off just yesterday so I got to work on developing a proper catproofing script, everything else I found online had glaring issues:  either they won't have the option to lock and unlock by using keybinds (it's either/or), or it won't work on fullscreen videogames or it won't lock the touchpad, the list goes on...

check it out if you're interested, it's very easy to use (just 1 key, which you can customize), I made it so it locks your keyboard and your touchpad, but leaves your mouse free.

TL;DR

I put it up on github, it shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes to get it running, there's more info there!

Keyboard-Lock/PewPewZerker

Also gonna be posting some pictures of Lily in the comment section!

Hi! I’m a mod here and work full time as a cat behavior consultant. I see clients virtually all over the world. And guess what! Many of my colleagues do too. If you’re having behavior issues, you can easily get in touch with a qualified professional.

If your cat’s quality of life is a concern, it’s time to hire a cat behavior consultant. And if your quality of life as his caregiver is a concern, it’s also time. Signs that your cat’s quality of life is seriously impacted include:

• Frequent aggression towards you or other pets
• Infrequent, but very severe aggression
• Hiding or isolating
• Urinating or defecating outside of the litter box
• Decreased or loss of appetite
• Heightened sensitivity to noises
• Hypervigilance (constantly surveying surroundings for a threat)
• Any major change in behavior (not acting like himself)

Any of these behavioral changes indicate working with a professional – Googling advice (or asking Reddit) will probably not be enough. And of course, you are able to recognize when your own quality of life is suffering. If you are feeling anxious, hopeless, or upset about the situation, it’s time to get help. The safety of you and your other pets, of course, is also a huge factor. If your cat is causing damage or injuries, don’t wait.

It doesn’t even have to be a big deal. Cat behaviorists and behavior consultants work with all kinds of things, from scratching furniture to excessive meowing and keeping you up all night. Need help with your new kitten? We got you. Want to teach your cat to go for walks in a harness? Accept nail trims? Go in a carrier easily? There’s a professional for that.

How do you locate someone qualified? Look for certifications and evidence of continuing education. You want to make sure you’re hiring someone with actual qualifications. Unfortunately animal training is unregulated (in the USA) and anyone can call themselves a trainer, behaviorist, etc with no formal education. (Jackson Galaxy is actually NOT a credentialed behaviorist.)

Places to search:

The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC) www.IAABC.org

The Pet Professional Guild (PPG) www.petprofessionalguild.com

Fear Free (also great for finding vets who practice low-stress handling) www.fearfreepets.com

If you’d like to know more about me and what I do, check out the links in my bio.

This has been a friendly PSA! There is help out there for those of you who feel like you’re at the end of your rope.

**I want to start by saying I have tried every behavioral modification technique in the FAQ as well as on websites that Ive looked at. **

So I’ve always considered adopting a pet to be a lifetime responsibility. That is until I recently adopted my cat Chloe.

Chloe is about 5 years old and I adopted her 7 months ago from a shelter that knew nothing about her history or personality. I am not super picky when it comes to personality as long as both me and the animal are safe.

When I first adopted her she was super skittish. She wanted attention, and would frequently force my roommate and I to pet her, but within 5-10 seconds she would attack us, all while still purring and demanding more attention immediately after. This included biting hard enough to break skin and scratching that left us bleeding as well.

This behavior has continued for months, and has really only gotten worse. I have tried to use negative reinforcement (i.e. ignoring her for a few minutes after she bites) and other reinforcement methods like squealing when she bites. Using food as a reward isn’t helping because she isn’t motivated by food. She isn’t really motivated by toys or attention either. She’s super independent whenever she’s not demanding attention. She refuses to let us pet her if she doesn’t approach us first (which is ok!!) which is how I know that she’s not doing it because she’s attention starved. She won’t play with toys for more than a few minutes, and I try to play with her at least twice a day, so I don’t think it’s that either. She is also on Zylkene which is a vet recommended supplement that’s supposed to help her calm down. The vet also told me that there is nothing that they could find medically wrong with her that is making her act this way. She is also fixed.

I feed her every day and change her litter box at least twice a week. I also only pet her where she guides me too (which is exclusively the face/neck area. I don’t touch the other parts of her body because she is not comfortable with that.

Up until this point, the bites and scratches have not caused any serious injuries. That is until today.

She was laying on my chest and purring and I was letting her rub up against my hand. She then turned her head and bit my hand harder than she ever has before. Long story short, she bit into a nerve in my hand and now I have nerve damage bad enough that I can barely move my left hand, and my whole hand and lower arm are in pain because of it.

This isn’t just some superficial wound that will go away in a couple days... there is potential that it may have lasting damage.

So I guess my question is this... what do I do?? I really don’t want to get rid of her but I am out of ideas! This is a serious injury and I feel like we have tried so much to help her calm down and to modify her behaviors, but nothing has worked. Should I keep trying, or am I morally justified in re-homing her? I feel so guilty even asking, but at this point my health is on the line.

Please be nice in your answers, I’m desperate and scared.

Hey all! I work in veterinary toxicology, and I thought I would add to the Christmas post just to clarify a few things and add on to what the original poster said:

• Poinsettia toxicity is one of the big poison "myths" about animals. They cause some mild vomiting and diarrhea, and not much more.
• Holly and mistletoe are still fairly toxic, and should be avoided in households with animals.
• Tree water from Christmas trees is mildly toxic, and while you should always avoid exposing your animals to chemicals, it most routinely just causes mild vomiting and diarrhea.
• Tinsel, tree needles, ornaments, etc., definitely do pose a foreign body hazard. Avoid ribbons and bows on your gifts too, as cats love to eat these.

The LARGEST poison problems with cats during the Christmas holidays are these:

• Lilies - these are EXTREMELY toxic to felines and cause kidney failure in very small amounts. Even the pollen is dangerous. If you have cats, never even bring these into your household.
• Chocolate - This one is self-explanatory, and 'tis the season for dietary indiscretions.
• Medications - with visiting families and elderly parents/grandparents in the home, we tend to see an uptick in accidentally dropped meds and cats who chase and swallow pills. Have guests close their bedroom doors to prevent feline access, and/or have them lock pill containers away to prevent exposure.

Happy Holidays to your and your feline friends!

So, ended up taking Ninja to the vet this past monday. He lost around 5lbs over the past few months. Went from being a 19-20 lb cat to around 14lbs. Not only that, there were differences in his behavior that was pretty obvious. I got him as a kitten in 2012 and I trained him to never actively beg for food from us when we are eating and all of a sudden, out of the blue he started begging from our plates, and then got worse! Actively begging anytime anyone was in the kitchen, even when no one was preparing or cooking food at all. Another change in his behavior is drinking. He started drinking a lot more water all of a sudden, even going so far as to essentially hover around it, and it obviously increased his rate of urination. Not to mention he seemed kind depressed. So, like I said. Took him to the vet. They ran labs and as it turns out, he's Type 1 Diabetic. He's nearly 9 years old so he's not as energetic as he used to be.

So now I get to give him two insulin shots a day for the next three weeks until I drop him off at his next Vet Appointment. Then they will keep him all day during labs every two hours to track his glucose levels and determine if the two one-unit shots a day is the correct one, if it needs to be reduced or even increased to a higher dosage or increased dose per day.

But, on a positive note, he gives absolutely no fucks about taking the injections. Also, after 4 days of insulin injections he seems a bit more energetic, has almost completely stopped begging at all again, and isn't drinking far more water than he should be anymore.

https://imgur.com/gallery/aCs4flb

So you've got a new friend for your kitty! Cats are social creatures and typically, cats are much happier when they have another cat in the home with them. Unfortunately, even experienced owners sometimes have the misconception that cats will work things out themselves and that they should simply be left to their own devices. Many owners are saddened and confused when their new cat and old cat don't get along. Thankfully, a proper introduction can work wonders for mitigating problems and encouraging amiable relations among cats.

I have used this process myself numerous times with great success! I recommend this method to all cat owners; it really works.

A little bit about cat social psychology...

Cats in the wild live in family-based groups with a loose hierarchy. Usually, the leader of the group is the mother. In your home, this is your role. Siblings have a "ranking" of their own, which isn't static and can change based on a variety of factors.

The family groups live in a defined territory, which is VERY important to cats. The territory is marked by a joint family scent, which in the home, includes your scent, your cat's, and any other family members'. The cat knows all about the area and has marked special places with his facial pheromones. "Home" is a vitally important safe area for your cat.

Introducing a new cat should be done in stages in order to preserve your resident cat's feeling of security and place in the home. Use your cat as a guide; judge his response to each step and determine if he is ready to move forward in the process.

Stage 1: Designate a safe room

Your new cat will also be a little stressed, since moving somewhere new is tough. Set up a safe, cat-proofed room for the new family member. This room should be as far from the resident cat as possible, and if you have an area that he doesn't visit as often, place your new kitty there. However, any room will do - as long as your resident cat is physically barred from entering the room in any way. The room's door should be securely closed during this stage.

The cats will become aware of each other. This is fine - you're not keeping the new cat's presence a total secret. But for now, the cats should not interact. Let your new cat settle in while your old cat goes about his usual routine. Spend time with your new cat and your old cat separately.

Move forward when: Usually in about a week, sometimes less if your cats have friendly or relaxed personalities. Signs they're ready for the next step are when your new cat lets you pet him, greets you when you enter his safe room (tail up greeting), when your old cat has 100% resumed his normal routine, or if your cats sniff at one another under the door without trouble.

Stage 2: Introduce the cats' scents

Find something your resident cat uses often - like a blanket or pillow he likes to sleep on. Do the same for your new cat. Switch these items.

This might be jarring for both of your cats at first, but typically most take it in stride. Many cats will respond to the item by rubbing their cheeks on it to deposit their own scent - if this happens, that's perfect! The cats will be creating a mingled scent this way. Even if they don't, it's inevitable that some scent mingling will occur indirectly. Every day or every other day, switch the items back.

Move forward when: The cats don't react much to the switching of items, OR they seem excited by them (pricked forward ears, raised tail, and other signs of interest). Sometimes they barely react at all, and this process only lasts a day or two. Other times, this stage lasts a week or more. Again, use your cat as a guidepost. He'll let you know when he's ready to move things forward.

Stage 3: Supervised interaction

It's time for you to let your cats meet each other!

Prior to the first meeting, clip both cats' claws - even play fighting can cause scratches, which can get their relationship off on the wrong foot. If you don't know how to clip your cats' nails, ask your vet or groomer. I recommend using a guillotine-style clipper and styptic powder in case of any bleeding.

Open the door and let your resident cat come in to the safe room, or let your new cat into a room in your resident cat's territory. It's always best for the first few meetings to take place in a smaller area, if possible.

During these meetings, it's very important that you are involved with both cats. Make the meetings as fun as possible. Give your cats their favorite treats, play with them, pet them, and talk to them. Remember that to your cats, you're the parent and leader of their family colony. That makes you not just a companion, but a vital resource. Show them that both of them may have full access to you, and that you provide for the needs of both of them.

There may be some hissing and posturing at first. Use your judgment on proceeding with meetings, based on the body language of your cats. A little posturing and one hiss is usually nothing to worry about, but prolonged fearful reactions indicate that you might need to return to stage 2 for awhile.

Move forward when: Your cats are playing or interacting normally with one another. If you see them grooming each other, congrats! This is a strong sign of friendship and acceptance into the family group.

Stage 4: Merging territories

Now, you can let your new cat out into the house. Let him explore and have full rein of the area. This could be a little hard for your resident cat, but by this time most are fine with their new group member and allow them to fully access the territory.

If your cats still seem a bit uncomfortable with one another, you can place your new cat in the safe room at night and let him out during the day. But if things seem fine and the cats are interacting fine, then you've completed the process. Again, use your cats' body language as a guide to know when they have been successfully introduced.

What's next?

After the introduction process is complete, there will still be some integration between the cats. Cats do have hierarchies, which tend to be based on age, size, and sometimes sex (with females tending to be slightly more dominant). As the weeks pass, you'll notice your cats will settle some mild disputes about who's dominant in the house - these should not result in any injury and typically are quick, mild altercations consisting of a little posturing and a swipe. If the fights are more serious, separate the cats and consult your veterinarian.

Some cats will go on to become pair-bonds and will be inseparable for life. Others will get along, but not be that close. For example, cats who were formerly feral tend to pair-bond to their humans, and will never pair-bond to another cat even if they get along just fine. This is the point in time when your cats should be left to decide for themselves what their relationship with each other will be. Expect that you may need to perform an abbreviated version of this process under certain circumstances - when one or both cats return from the vet or boarding, when you move to a new home, or if you give birth or adopt a child.

This process works well in the overwhelming majority of situations, but there are always outliers. You may need to make adjustments to the steps. But, if your cats truly are unable to get along or if they seem to be overly aggressive or fearful of one another, consult your vet or a local rescue organization for additional help.

Good luck and congratulations on your new addition!

I have used three silica litters – Pretty Litter, FreshStep Crystal Litter, and VibrantLife Crystal Litter - for my 8-month solid black female cat – who I would say is average in size/weight for a black female cat. I will review all three with the information I wish someone had told me, as it would have saved me A LOT of time/research trying to find out. I also obsessively test things and research things way too much, so this may get long.

Short Version: They all work and work well. I know some have ‘urine pooling issues’ with crystal litter, but I would venture that a lot of that is user error, not stirring it enough, or just having many cats or one really big cat, maybe…. I put down 2” of cover and stirred the litter twice daily with no issues.

I currently have VibrantLife upstairs in her top entry box (rarely used) and PrettyLitter downstairs in her main box. I don’t care for FreshStep. However, if I was at the grocery store and needed crystal litter and I didn’t have time (or the desire) to make a second stop at Walmart or Target, I would buy it with no hesitation. It works fine—you can read my comments on why I don’t prefer to use it below.

Pretty Litter: $27 for 8 lbs - found at Target/Walmart or online.

Pros: It works. Low odor, Low initial dust. Light color. Fine grain. Urine Analysis. Lightweight.

Favorite Pro: Light Color

Least Favorite Pro: Fine Grain

The light color is ideal for spotting and finding buried treasures, as I call them – especially if you have a covered box, dark box, poor lighting, or poor eyesight. The crystals absorb urine and the smell and stick to the poop for easy scooping. Great initial offer with a free metal scoop and a litter box.

It's a very fine grain, and my cat loves it; it is soft on the paws, and she seems to have a great time digging and burying her business with her claws on this one - my cat loves to bury in this one. She does her best burials with PrettyLitter – everything gets fully covered – so this may be a BIG benefit to those who want your cat to bury better. Esp if you can’t scoop the poop right away, it covers much of the smell and dehydrates it much more quickly.

Fine grain also makes scooping and shifting much faster because the litter flows very quickly through.

Also, because it’s a fine grain, I don’t feel like I’m removing as much when I scoop the poop out – so there is more left in the box for coverage/smell/absorption/dehydration. I also think the fine grain gives PrettyLitter more surface coverage for dehydrating their business. It is helpful as I’m not worried about falling asleep and forgetting to stir before bed. Also, when you scoop it out, it is harder, so it’s unlikely to stick to your scooper, and harder poop is less smelly, IMO.

And if you are going out of town for a few days and maybe your friend/mom/whatever can’t make it over as often to check on things or doesn’t see well and misses poop, then your house doesn’t reek when you get home. The fine grain also means there is more surface area to absorb the pee, so it absorbs into the litter and dries out faster.

Now, this doesn’t mean you should skip stirring – all crystal litters need to be stirred at least once a day (I do it twice), maybe more with additional cats. Silica absorbs liquid, but each silica bead can only absorb so much. If your cat repeatedly goes to the same spot, the silica will be oversaturated and stop absorbing, and the pee will pool at the bottom. So you stir to help dry it out and mix it around so your cat doesn’t oversaturate an area.

I’ve seen many reviews that say the urine analysis is just marketing. If you have multiple cats, it’s not going to identify the cat, so to me, it’s nice to have, but I wouldn’t pay more for it.

It’s lightweight, but they all are – this is more beneficial after your cat has been using it for a month and you have to carry the initial litter (with the added month of absorbed pee) downstairs😊

Cons: It’s fine grain. See, I said it was my least favorite pro. Most expensive (unless you get a BOGO offer – which they did a Thanksgiving or free gifts).

It’s so fine grain that it tracks out the worst of all three. I don’t know how it compares to clay or pine litter, as I’ve never used them. I have a litter mat in front of her covered box downstairs, and I’ll still get litter scattered around. To be fair, the litter mat I have is small (Vibrant Life Small Trapper – 24” by 14”); however, it contains the bigger crystals from FS and VL. The PL crystals are so fine and lightweight that they carry a little farther – and we are talking maybe a foot – it’s not a crazy amount. Also, this is not an issue with my top entry box – my ISIS captures all the litter on top, so if you have a top entry, you’re good.

Now, I can’t see the litter when it gets on the floor because it’s the same color as the tile in my laundry room, but you will feel it, and that’s gross. I keep a little handheld sweeper by the box, which quickly takes care of the issue. Also, a few times, she’s gotten a piece of litter near her eye, and that worries me. It could get in her eye – this happened with FS once when she was about 3 months as well, but it still happens with PL because it’s finer, so it sticks a little more, I guess.

FreshStep Crystal Litter ($22 for 8 lbs - found everywhere)

Pro: It works. They all work. Available everywhere. Lightweight. Blue color. Medium Grains

Favorite Pro: Available everywhere. Least Favorite Pro: Blue Color

Cons: Still pricy, blue dust, scented.

So most of the ‘it works’ and how it works applies to all three – really, even the cheap one.

The litter crystals are bigger, so it’s not as easy to shift through the litter, and it takes longer to shake off the excess when scooping the poop. What I would add to this one is that it’s very easily found, which is nice; many may like the scent – it’s the best at covering initially, but I think it smells the worst of the three by the end. It doesn’t track, and because of the blue color, it hides things the best – this is good if you have a lazy burier and don’t want to see the poop. This is bad if you have bad vision or poor lighting, as it makes it harder to see and find the poop. I noticed this, but it wasn’t really an issue until my mom took care of my cat for 3 days, and she missed some poop because she couldn’t see it to find it. The good news is I didn’t smell the poop in the FS litter when I walked, and I smell everything – dehydration for the win.

Again, it’s a covered box, with a flap, under a table, so it’s not easy to move to better light – so this may be a non-issue for many). I had a light litter upstairs (I can’t remember which one, to be honest), and it wasn’t an issue at all because she could easily see everything.

One thing I do like about the blue is that when it’s saturated, it goes yellow, so it’s easy to determine saturation and if you need to change it out. The PL changes color, too, but I’ll be honest: I don’t notice it until I have fresh litter next to it. Changing from light white/peach to light yellow/peach over a month is so gradual that you don’t notice. But with the blue comes blue dust…my cat is black, so I didn’t notice it on her, but on a light cat, you might. I did notice it when I changed the litter box, and I wiped the sides, and it was blue dust everywhere. And I thought, ‘Will this dye rub off and stain my carpet?’ – which is why the litter box upstairs only gets light litter because the carpet is white.

VibrantLife: ($6 for 4 lbs and $12 for 8 lbs - only found it at Walmart)

Pro: It works. It’s cheap. It’s white. Comes in 4 lb bags and 8 lb.

Favorite Pro: It’s cheap. Least Favorite Pro: Um, none

Cons: I’ve only found it at Walmart. It has larger grains. It’s white but has random dark crystals.

Again, it works. This is the one we use upstairs. My ISIS litter box only needs about 4 lbs. of litter for my cat’s cover needs, so this size is perfect and cheap. Again, I recommend going with the 2” as that will ensure you have plenty of litter to absorb until you learn how your cat pees and how much because then you figure out how deep you need the litter to be to keep it off the bottom.

Because this was cheap and I couldn’t find any reviews, I was worried it wouldn’t cover the smell, so we relegated this to the upstairs for testing. So far, it’s been great, but she does use this box as a backup, so I can’t say it can hold as much urine and odor smell as the PL. I don’t think she uses this one less because she doesn’t like the larger grains; I think it’s just because most of our time is spent downstairs, but I guess I’ll find out when I switch both boxes over. The crystals on this one don’t really change colors. They get more opaque. Initially, they are clear/white, and they get solid white as they saturate. The random dark/purplish crystals worried my daughter initially – she thought something was in it or the cat had sprayed out. But once I assured her it was just the new litter, it was nothing – however, sometimes I think it is that litter or a fallen bit of poop – so some may not like that.

However, it’s less than ½ the cost, so even if you can only go 3 weeks instead of 4, you are still saving. I’ve had one more bag of PL (got a BOGO Black Friday Special) that I will use downstairs, and then I’m switching downstairs to VL. I’ll stick with it unless it doesn’t cover the smell as well ( and I’ll update this when I know – which may be in March ’23). But I haven’t had an issue with the smell upstairs, and I’ve had this one upstairs for the past three months – change out once a month.

All Three:

Dust: On the dust, I would say this goes for all of them – as the cat uses the litter and steps on it and you stir it, the crystals start to break down, creating the dust. So initially, there is very little dust, but after a couple of weeks, when you stir it, you will notice dust if you dig deep, and when you dump it, you’ll see it. However, I’ve watched my cat, and when she is burying her business, I don’t see dust. I think it’s just because I’m grabbing so much of it with my scooper that it’s an issue. I don’t know if any really have less dust – maybe the VL but we currently only have that one in her top entry upstairs, and it’s not used that much since we spend most of our time downstairs.

Smell: As far as smell, I’ve seen many reviews between PL and FS, and many thought FS was the best at absorbing orders, but I would say FS tops out at 2 weeks for me because it’s a scented litter. Once it really starts mixing too much, it’s like I can smell the urine mixing with the scent, and it smells worse. I feel the same about scented trash can liners. Like, in theory, your like, ‘oh, let’s get a scented liner, and I’ll smell lavender instead of trash,’ but really, the smells collide, and the trash ends up smelling so much worse. So if you think the trash smells worse with a scented liner, then you will not like FreshStep after about 10 days.

Free Pretty Litter Offer: I recommend that everyone go to the Pretty Litter website and sign up for a month but not place the order. They will then text you a 'get a free toy and 20%' offer, and if you ignore that one, you'll get a 'free scoop, free litter box, and 20% off' offer. The scooper is a nice metal scooper, and the box is a blue plastic one with higher sides. 19" in length, 14" in width, and 9" high in the back. The higher cost is worth it for the 1st month, just for the metal scoop and box, as a metal scoop alone is like $10. The box also came in handy when my cat was spayed, and we had to cone her for 2 weeks as it was an easy entry/exit box. The cone made it impossible for her to enter her top entry box, and she wouldn’t/couldn’t push open the front entry door flap with the cone.

Sidenote: One 8 lb. bag of pretty litter (or any of them) will provide the recommended 2" of cover for this size litter box – as does the medium IRIS top entry (really only needs like 4-6 lbs depending on your cat) and the Petsmart ExquisiCat® Jumbo Flip Top Litter Pan with Door (these are my current two litter boxes). I had the round Booda dome, which is 19 inches long and wide, and I had to use 1.5 bags to get the 2” cover. I no longer have that litter box because we needed a door or top entry to keep my Yorkie out. However, I would recommend it if you need a bigger litter box, don’t need to keep a dog out, and have a cat that squats or pees low – as some people had urine leakage along the pan/top seam from high pee-ers or cats that lift.

I would sign up online, like I said, and cancel if you don’t like it, find it too expensive, or don’t like the shipments. You can also get it in person if you are near a Target or Walmart. Target currently has it at buy one, get one 25% off. I found it very easy to cancel online using their website.

This got really long.

Hi friends, I recently moved across the country by flying with my 2 cats and we survived! I wanted to document everything since some threads on this sub really helped me prepare.

I have 6 year old male tuxedo cats that are both close to 14 pounds. One is occassionally aggressive in stressful situations and the other is anxious and has a history of bladder issues.

We flew United so the first thing I did was buy TSA compliant carriers that worked with the airline's dimensions. I went with the Mr. Peanut's Gold Series Standard Size Airline Compliant Expandable Pet Carrier. They are very sturdy and comfortable for my big boys and fit securely under the United seats. They even held up to my aggressive boy's scratching after he tried to break out in the middle of the flight. The carriers were delivered a few weeks before we moved so I could put them out in our apartment for the boys to get used to. I put catnip and their favorite toy in the carriers for comfort and sprayed them with Feliway a few times. They generally don't do well in carriers so I didn't force them into it before the day of the flight, but just having the carriers out was enough for them to be comfortable in and around them.

Next was taking them to the vet and preparing meds. The vet prescribed them gabapentin and trazadone at appropriate dosages for their size and history. My aggressive boy was also prescribed a trans dermal appetite stimulant because he will refuse medicated food. I gave that to him the morning of the flight to ensure he ate all his medicated breakfast. I gave them one dose of gabapentin the night before and a second dose of gabapentin and the trazedone the morning of. This combo worked quite well in keeping them calm and sleepy. My anxious boy literally slept the whole flight!

The night before the flight, I started reducing their food and water intake to help prevent any accidents. They got about half their usual amount of food the night before and morning of, and I added their meds to their food. They're very regular with their litter box usage too, so I was able to schedule things around that too.

Getting them in the carriers was quite easy with the help of the meds. When we got to the airport, we had to check in at the airline desk and get tags for their carriers. I was prepared with documentation of their health and vaccine records, but that wasn't neccessary this time. Next was TSA and they require you to take the cat out of the carrier so they can put the carrier through the screening, but you can request a private room for screening. I made that request and, after going through normal security by yourself, they brought me and the cats there. The screening room was a small room with a table. They ask you to take the cat out the carrier, then one agent runs it through the screening while another stays in the room with you. I did each cat separately and was prepared with a jacket to burrito them, but both boys were very calm (thanks to the meds!) and just explored the room while we waited. They willingly entered their carriers after they got back from screening too. Then we boarded the flight like normal and placed their carriers under the seats in front of us. You're only allowed one pet per seat, but I had someone with me so one cat was listed under them. If you're flying with multiple pets by yourself, you have to buy a separate seat for each additional pet. During the flight, my aggressive boy decided he was ready to be out and spent some time meowing and doing his best to break out of the carrier. No one was disturbed though and the carrier held up perfectly. Other than that it was uneventful and we arrived safely at our destination!

Good luck with any future cat travels!

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been doing a lot of independent research on different food options specifically for kittens (under 1 year). In doing so, I looked at the brands’ recall history, association with the (primarily canine) DCM report published by the FDA, consulted several databases (CatFoodDB, Catological, AllAboutCats, PetDiet, PetFoodReviewer, ConsumerAffairs, etc.). I did look at boutique blogs as well but I personally don’t put too much weight into them. That being said, here are my thoughts and opinions:

*Disclaimer: I am not associated with any of these brands or sites mentioned. Do your own due diligence on your chosen foods.

General: - Kittens (and cats) do best on a primarily wet diet specifically formulated for them, due to their caloric needs. - Free-feeding (dry) is recommended by most, otherwise they need 3-4 small meals throughout the day. - Exposure to different types of food (proteins, textures, etc.) as a kitten will be beneficial in the long run as they may be less likely to develop fixations/allergies. However, remember to introduce new foods slowly. - Supplementation of diets with pumpkin (make sure there are no additives if feeding human-quality) is recommended as it will help to regulate their bowel movements. - A basic understanding of label literacy is always recommended. - Grain-free diets are controversial at this point, it is my opinion that they are okay for kittens (short-term). I personally do not differentiate products based on this.

Do Not Feed: - Any foods found at the grocery store/general supermarket (if you are able). Including but not limited to: IAMS, Whiskas, 9Lives, Fancy Feast. - Food with particularly well-known recall/problematic history (such as Blue Buffalo). - Food formulated for adult/senior cats. - Royal Canin, Purina, Hills Science Diet: I have found that ingredients commonly found in these popular brands are poor in comparison to other brands, and while they may be recommended by some vets, I personally believe these should be avoided.

Best Wet: Budget: Authority Chicken and Liver Entree Kitten Pâté - Why: Comparatively, it is half the price of most other brands (per oz based in my area), and still offers great nutritional value. - Things to Note: As it is one of the budget options, some products (such as their dry food) may vary in quality. - First 5 Ingredients: Chicken, chicken broth, turkey, chicken liver, ocean fish. - Associations: Owned by PetSmart, founded in 1986. - Recalled: Once in 2007, as part of the large Menu Foods recall.

Middle: Wellness CORE Classic Pate Kitten Food (Chicken and Turkey) - Why: Wellness is a well-known and reputable brand, and their CORE line is the more premium, grain-free alternative to their Complete, though both are high quality. The CORE line also features high protein content, such as their 95% products. - Things to Note: Their recall history, see below. - First 5 Ingredients: Turkey, chicken liver, chicken, chicken meal. - Associations: Owned by WellPet LLC, from 1997. - Recalled: 2017 (one variety of canned dog food), 2012 (single variety of dry dog food), 2011 (recalled due to inadequate levels of thiamine).

Premium: Halo Holistic Grain-Free Whitefish Recipe - Why: Halo is committed to products without “meat meals”, GMO-free, with a variety of high-quality offerings. They do not source any ingredients from China. They also have a history of donating to local shelters. - Things to Note: They have not issued any non-voluntary recalls (Spot’s Stew in 2015 due to reports of mold). Their chicken recipe for kittens is also recommended, as some kittens may not enjoy fish. - First 5 Ingredients: Ocean whitefish, turkey, turkey broth, vegetable broth, turkey liver - Associations: Co-owned by Ellen Degeneres, from 1986.

Overall Brand: Nulo Medalseries (Limited Ingredient Diet) - Why: Nulo is a newer company (founded in 2009) quickly gaining speed within the premium market, thanks to its many high-profile ambassadors. They have never been recalled. - Things to Note: They do not provide detailed production information (therefore lack of manufacturing information). The Medalseries line is (AFAIK) exclusive to PetSmart locations.

Best Dry:

Budget: Simply Nourish SOURCE Grain-Free Chicken and Turkey - Why: Simply Nourish has no recall history to date, and is primarily made with animal proteins. There are no artificial food colouring dyes, and can be readily found at PetSmart (as with Authority, see above). - Things to Note: Some consumers have reported that their bags contain a lot of “food dust”, and that the prices have increased considerably for a lesser amount of food. - First 5 Ingredients: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, turkey meal, dried potatoes, dried peas - Associations: Owned and manufactured by PetSmart.

Middle: Acana (First Feast Kitten) - Why: Acana, as well as its sister brand Orijen, are two of the most recognizable and popular pet food brands available. They are of high quality, with no recalls to date (founded in 1975). They have a commitment to locally and sustainably raised ingredients. As they have many different lines, it will be easy to transition your kitten to adult food within the brand. - Things to Note: Acana and Orijen have both been named within the aforementioned FDA report regarding DCM. - First 5 Ingredients: Chicken, chicken meal, herring meal, oatmeal. - Associations: Champion PetFoods, from 2001.

Premium: Instinct Original Grain-Free with Real Chicken - Why: A high quality, protein-packed dry food with 81% of the food being animal products and oils. - Things to Note: Their wet food is also very highly reviewed, and will be complementary to the dry food, if you prefer a single brand diet. However, the ingredients may contain some allergens, and they have also been named within the FDA report. - First 5 Ingredients: Chicken, turkey meal, menhaden fish meal, peas, chicken fat. - Associations: Owned and manufactured by Nature’s Variety, founded in 2002. - Recalled: 2015 (raw dog foods), 2013 (single variety raw dog food) and 2010 (“).

Honorable Mentions: - Merrick Purrfect Bistro Healthy Kitten Food: Many consumers have boycotted the brand following its acquisition by Purina, however the company states that their quality will not be impacted. - Now Fresh Turkey, Duck and Salmon Kitten Food: Mixed consumer reviews. - Wellness CORE Kitten Food Natural, Grain Free: Considered one of the most expensive, $19/2lbs in my area, however very well reviewed. - Performatrin Ultra Grain-Free Kitten Recipe: Owned and manufactured by PetValu (Bosley’s), considered quite expensive despite comparative lack of published reviews.

Do you always find your cats covering their faces while going for a deep slumber? Have you ever wondered about the reasons why they behave such? Guilt, fear, or comfort? Here we list down a few reasons as to why do cats cover their faces while sleeping:

The feeling of being secured

Cats are predators, but they also fear being preyed on by bigger predators. Covering their faces while sleeping gives them a sense of security and also gives them a feeling of safety against any predators that may prey on them.

Beat the sun hack

Cats usually find themselves toasty places for sleeping, but they do not like the feeling of the sun rays kissing their face every time they twist and twirl for a sound nap. Thus they tend to cover their faces to beta the sun rays and to keep the glare off from their eyes.

To warm their nose

Cats usually tend to curl and cover their face as an act of retaining heat in their body, especially in their nasal area. Thus, they are usually seen covering their nose with their paws while covering their face while taking a nap.

Comfy and cosy feel

Another reason why cats cover their faces is the mere fact that they feel cosy and comfortable while doing the same.

Not a guide but something I think people might find helpful! I came across Music for Cats while doing some online reading. My boyfriend and I just adopted a 4 month old kitten a few days ago and he was being moody last night. I put on one of the songs and our boy instantly took to it! He got up on the couch, started kneading the blanket and purring.

I really think this is such a great initiative and just wanted to share it with other cat parents whose feline friends might be feeling a little stressed or antsy. Would love to hear your guys’s experiences!

I adopted an adult cat a couple months ago and she came with some issues that needed rectifying. Thank the heavens the urine issues have been resolved.

Because clawing is a behavioural issue and I had no idea how it developed and for how long, I needed to pay close attention to why/when she claws and what she gets out of it. This is very important because deterrents and punishments are what we instinctively reach for when finding a solution but the root of the issue is what needs understanding & fixing.

Everytime she clawed, it's because she wanted something. Food, to go outside, pets, attention in general (a lot of reasons). So my clue was that I need to be more attentive to my cat before and after she claws.

My simple solution : Give them what they want, but redirect how they get it.

I'd say "come here" with playful and cuddly tone of voice to get her to come to me instead of clawing the carpet which is totally unexpected behaviour from the owner.

If she didn't stop and come to me I would calmly pick her up without words and place her somewhere else. Not in a locked room. Just displace the cat and be patient and persistent with taking them away from what they're doing.

After about 3 weeks of repetition the cat could understand that clawing would not instigate the reaction it wanted and because I replaced that reaction with a new and strange positive response of nicely asking the cat to come to me, instead she would skip the clawing step and come bother me first. Sometimes she would claw very softly next to my feet but the clawing has stopped.

Persistence & patience is key to understanding the cats behaviour.

The cat wants something. Take the time of day to stop and try to understand what your cat wants. If you don't offer replacement behaviour and ignore your cat, it will likely return to clawing because it creates an inevitable reaction.

Funnily enough when my cat comes to my legs first to bother me she will try to imitate the sound of clawing without actually doing it. Which is super cute ! But I always try to give her what she wants if I can. If I can't, I calmly say "no" and give her a cuddle. She knows it means no and usually stops bothering me.

I hope this can be helpful to anyone who is at their witts end and want to try a behavioural approach. I'm by no means an expert!

I've seen several posts and comments on reddit about trying to get difficult cats to take a pill, so I felt like making a post about it based on my experience.

One of my cats has to take a pill every day, she has since she was very little, for anxiety and behavioral issues. I was a child when we first got her, but I remember how much my parents struggled to force a pill down her throat, especially considering that the reason she was taking them was for biting and aggression!

Finally we tried tucking them into soft treats so she'd eat them. She still wouldn't eat it at first, but eventually we found treats she would eat (dog treats actually!) and now every day she will actually ask for "pill time".

So if you're struggling, try finding soft treats your cat likes. Break the treat into small enough pieces so the cat can eat it in one gulp, and put the pill into one of them. I usually give mine the one with the pill in it second in case she tries chewing the first one. Sometimes she will find the pill, so I just put it into a different piece and give it back to her, but usually that doesn't happen.