I am on a 2023 Giant TCR running PR2 wheels. Have been a cyclist my whole life but really coming into my element this past few months and being v consistent so want to take the next step (I also think carbon wheels make a bike look so so good). Any suggestions welcome - thanks!

Hello, I started cycling this year, and with Fall around the corner, I need to buy warmer gear. I live in the Houston area, so "cold" means starting a ride with temperatures in the mid 30s and ending in the upper 40s.

I'm not looking for top of the line, just something reasonably priced and with good quality.

I'm assuming I'll need some sort of windbreaker I can wear over my jerseys, long legged bibs (or would I be OK with regular ones at those temperatures?), padded gloves (my hands get really cold) and socks. Bibs, I don't mind spending a bit more to get something comfortable.

Thanks!

I bought a new bike in April. Coincidentally my 14 year old 105 Rim Brake Ribble had a small issue with the crank that I didn't get around to fixing (mainly because I had a new bike I wanted to ride). After riding many thousands of kilometers on my new 105 Di2 Disc brake bike, I finally got around to riding my old bike again. I posted something similar right after I got my new bike, but I thought it's worth updating with more experience on the new bike.

OMG, the old Ribble is a good bike. To be fair, I spent the last 14 years learning how to set up the brakes and shifting correctly :-). The bike is also in very good shape. It has nice tires (only 25 mm, but running at 75 PSI, which works well on the roads around here).

Rim brakes on aluminium brake tracks in the dry are awesome. Yes, they require a bit more force than Shimano 105 disc brakes, but the braking power is sufficient and they feel nice. The force requirement is most obvious braking from the hoods, but in the drops they are so buttery smooth. You can even 1 finger brake from the drops very easily. Simano 105 disc brakes are very binary and a bit grabby. 105 rim brakes with standard Ultegra cartridges/pads have much more modulation. It's very surprising. In the wet... Yeah, disc brakes any day of the week. The old bike is going to be for nice weather :-)

Shifting on the old bike is great. Really positive feel. I find Di2 a bit "dead" in that you click an electronic button and it shifts. You aren't really connected to the shifting. With mechanical shifting, you can feel all of the tension in the system. I love the feel of the bike as the gear engages.

However, there are issues. The old 10 speed 105 gears can drop the chain pretty easily on the way down because the spring tension is very high. You learn how to do it over time, but with new Di2 (and I suspect even new mechanical) it's not something you really need to think about at all. You also need to trim the gears. That's baked into my brain by now, though.

The main "problem" is that it's just not nearly as fast as the Di2. With Di2 you can shift down 3-4 gears in a single pedal stroke. I just can't do that with my 10 speed 105. I also got into the habit of downshifting the front derailleur coming into a stop. You just need a half a pedal stroke to have it all get settled. This is not a good strategy on the 10 speed. The lack of gears is also surprisingly an issue between 25-30 km/h on a compact chainset with a 11-28 in the rear. There just aren't a lot of good options and it's awkward deciding whether or not you want ot be in the big ring. With 12 speed, you can easily just get into the big rin at 25 km/h and not even think about it. Then obviously, 28 on the back is a pretty hard gear for your granny gear :-)

Tire clearance is obviously an issue as well. Reaslistically for most bikes you are stuck at 25 or 28 mm. I think my bike could actually fit 30s (just), but you would need a pretty wide rim to make it perform well, IMHO. My new bike has 32s and they are cushy, but... at slower speeds on relatively good roads 25 is not nearly as bad as I remembered it being. I still really enjoyed my ride.

Basically, I just want to encourage people who don't have the money for the latest and greatest to think hard about picking up a good quality used road bike. If you send it to the shop and get it in very good working condition I think you will be really surprised at just how good these bikes can be. In some places in the world, rim brake bikes are going for astonishingly low prices. This is a great time to pick up a bargain. I do like my new bike and will still be riding it more than the old bike, but I'm currently thinking about some upgrades to the old bike because it's got a lot of good years left in it.

I ride regularly on a Giant escape for general fitness. I was looking to get into road cycling with the intention of eventually racing and was wondering what a good starter would be. Also any recs on other gear (suits, clip-ins, and stuff such as that)? I am a college student so I haven’t got the room to drop 1k+ on a bike, I’ve mainly been looking a lot on marketplace and other 2nd hand options. Any older models that could make good starters and reasonable price ranges for said bikes? Also not 100% on sizing but I am 5’10” if that helps. Not looking for anything crazy, any old aluminum frame will do for me.

I recently purchased the RS5 and been loving the rides. I've done couple small rides and a nice 25 mile ride so far this month.

I've read that carbon wheels are one of the best upgrades to get, and I looked at chinese carbon wheels.

Given that the RS5 is 1400 before tax, and the RS7 is 2100 before tax, is it worth just getting the RS7 instead of a wheel upgrade? The bike shop also sold me on better rotors, the same ones on the RS7. The upgrade was 100, so 1500 total before tax.

I know I'm fairly new as this is my first road bike (used a cheap hybrid before) but I want this to last a while, so I'd like some opinions on this before the return window closes. I'm not even committed to getting carbon wheels at the moment, but I'm just trying to think what would make sense for the future. Are other chinese carbon wheels better than RS7 carbon wheels?

Hi, Bigfoot here! I just got into gravel biking and I want to put down watts but as my name implies, I've got these big honkin feet! Every clip in shoe ive found online falls woefully short of containing these massive doggies!

I'm desperate people! Help my keep my ginormous clodstomppin ground grippers contained!

Also I have a buddy who's feet are big for a human. Any advice for him?

His are 360mm heel to toe by 140mm wide.

Hello everyone, I’m getting my first road bike soon and I’m planning to get a computer bike. I do have an Apple Watch that I’m planning to use for HR and segments, along with Strava. What I need is a clear display for navigation, which shows me also HR and other useful info. What do you suggest?
Thank you everyone

Hi 👋

After years of thinking about getting into the cycling.. I finally did!

I’ve only got 100 miles under my belt so far this month but have a goal to ride the whole state around this time next year. I’ve been reading forums, talking to individuals at bike shops… etc.. but see the real pro’s are here.. So I have some questions for you all.

1) Everyone is saying to get Strava. Why or why not? Has it been beneficial to you

2) Where and how is a good place to meet other road bikers and build a community to find people to ride with?

3) How do you go about planning out what routes you’re going to do? Do you plan it weekly, monthly or just whatever you feel like?

4) What are some exercises you’ve found beneficial to get you into the best shape?

5) What watch do you recommend for biking?

Any other feedback would be great.

Thank you so much!

What is the protocol after muddy/wet rides or when the roads get salty?

Is a boiling water rinse/clean still sufficient enough before rewaxing?

Sold my carbon bike with carbon wheels and axs. Bought a steel bike. Now I ride in jeans, carry parcels and descend stairs. My FTP has dropped to zero, but my happiness is at an all-time high.

Looking for longer term reviews of this bike. I like that the rival build has semi internal routing and comes with good wheels. The colors are cool too.

The Ben Delaney review has me a little spooked. Seems like the shorter chain stay could be an issue and just overall build quality?

Looking for some real world feedback!

Really curious as I always loved their gear. I'm building up a wide (35mm) rim brake bike and have just begun the search for their QR fork (which had hidden fender eyelets) which I had on my All City Mr Pink but alas, I just found out they went bust (from their Aussie distributor).

There's slim pickings for aftermarket QR fork manufacturers. Enve, Ritchey, WR compositi (plus a handful of UK (China sourced brands) appear to be it!

Hey everyone,

​I'm wondering what the ideal tire pressure is when using my Inside Ride rollers compared to riding outdoors.

​Outside, I run a tubeless setup with Continental GP5000 STR 28mm tires on Roval CLX 50 wheels, and I usually run 62 PSI front / 67 PSI rear (which feels great for comfort and grip on the road).

​However, I know that keeping pressures that low on direct-drive or drum rollers can cause excessive tire flex and heat buildup.

​What PSI would you recommend for the Inside Ride with this specific setup (keeping in mind wear on the GP5000 STRs and wheel safety)?

​Thanks in advance for any advice!

I have been dealing with issues related to the road as of this year, due to the city not wanting to keep the roads clean, there has been an unholy mess of scrap car tires, screws, glass shards and metal shards on the streets and bike lanes. I have tried a number of things, bought brand new tyres, new tubes (multiple times), grabbed some sealant (didn't help at all when truly needed), and even added some liners to help with the bike's durability.

I desperately need a way to have a long lasting ride, like I'm talking months to maybe even a year. I need them to be durable because this bike is my only form of transportation. I try Ultraverse by the way, and so far seem to do ok but I still end up fixing my tyre once a month, this has slowly started to be one of my more expenses so far.

I've recently been reading about the benefits of doing extended rides in zone 2.

I'm a bit older (53) and only started riding this year. Most of my rides are around 1 to 2 hours, gravel or mixed, average speed of between 18 and 22km/h (terrain depending). The thing is, most of my rides are zone 3 (average heart rate of 140 to 145)

If I wanted to ride in zone 2 territory, it feels like I'd just about be walking.

Is that what I should be doing?

I want to try a YKYW short but the sizing chart is fucking incomprehensible:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0672/8122/4000/files/1_022e1bc1-9d4c-4f7f-9061-1547bfc0fec3.jpg?v=1775799444

I have a pair of Pearl Izumi Attack shorts that fit me just right, size M. The measures available on Pearl Izumi's site do not match at all anything I can find in the above linked chart. My own measuring of my shorts says I would be a 2XL of YKYW, but that makes no sense.

Does anyone with YKYW gear know how to make a parallel between US and their sizes?

Hey everyone,

I’m stuck between two bikes and could really use some help deciding.

Cube Agree C62 2027 Pro

Pros:
• Better price
• Fully integrated cockpit
• Better stock tires
• Ultegra Di2
Cons:
• PressFit bottom bracket

Cannondale SuperSix Evo 5

Pros:
• Lifetime frame warranty
• Big, well-known brand
• Threaded bottom bracket
Cons:
• Significantly more expensive
• Only 105 Di2
• No integrated cockpit

I’m leaning slightly toward the Cube because of the better groupset and integrated cockpit for the money, but the PressFit BB and the fact that Cannondale has a lifetime warranty + threaded BB is making me second-guess myself.
What would you go for in my position?

My synthetic stuff smells fine out of the dryer, then reeks the second I start sweating again. Tried regular detergent, vinegar soaks, extra rinses — nothing really sticks. What actually works for you, or am I cooked?

For road and light gravel riding. Must be 4000k to 5000k color temp, and USB-C rechargeable. Y'all know of one? TIA

ok, conflicting reports, whether MM loop is in or out.

I guess we wait a week....

Concerns about 'GC neutralization' if MM is used? What's the issue? When has a flat final stage produced any changes to GC?

Heck, freeze placings before the final climb, won't change anything. The last two finales were excellent racing. And I loved seeing riders off the back taking their time on Lepic and hamming it up for the crowds.

Keep the energy!!! The sprinters had a a good 10k chase off the top this year, and they missed by half a wheel. Seems pretty equitable.

https://www.cyclingnews.com/pro-cycling/racing/tour-de-france-reportedly-set-to-swerve-montmartre-climb-on-final-stage-of-2027-route-despite-drama-of-past-two-years/

Been debating between it and the factor ostro vam. Really like the scope artech wheels on it.

Hello, I have been looking for a good documentary on Cyclings steroid era. Sadly, I haven't had much success as most just seem to focus on Lance Armstrong. While he is a good example case none of them go into great detail about other players who were using them and the consequences for these other competitors. I want to know more about the lesser known cases and the impact on cycling at a larger scale. Do you know of any?

Hey!

I own an Elves falath evo+,

I started out with 28mm corsas on it, decided that I preferred comfort over slight aero gains and moved up to 32mm.

The frame lists a max clearance of 32mm and honestly there is about 8mm at the tightest point, so I’m really tempted to slap something like a 35mm on there for light gravel and just overall comfort since I’m not racing.

Is there anyone here that owns a falath evo and has experience with riding wider than 32mm? If so, how is it and for anyone who doesn’t have this specific experience should I do it even though Elves says 32mm is max? I honestly think 35 would fit fine, I’m just not to knowledgeable on any possible dangers this would bring.
The inner rim diameter of my scope s4 wheelset is 19mm.

Thanks!

(Added some pics of the current setup with 32mm)

https://silca.cc/products/omata-imperial

Just got a text from Silca bout this product. I think it's fancy and all. As I understand it, it has a GPS unit inside but that data is converted into analog gauges and lacks a lot of the "distractions" we've come to love. It's $800 cheap but, IMO, has a very high "wow factor." I'm not sure though if i'm wowing it for coolness or its audacity.

I don't have "throw away" money but if I did, I'm not convinced I'd throw it away on this....not convinced I wouldn't, either.

Currently ride a 2017 Colnago C-RS in a 48s which is basically a 52cm bike (Colnago sizes their bikes in a non-standard way). I'm 5'5" with a 29"ish inseam for pants.

The C-RS has a 527 mm stack and a 382 mm reach.

I find the bike very comfortable for long rides and being in the drops is comfortable/natural and I am equally comfortable standing out of the saddle climbing. No real issues at all when riding and I feel like I like being stretched out just a bit in the drops which makes it possible to do for a long time comfortably.

However, I'm on only a 90 mm stem and quite frankly an 80 mm stem would probably be perfect with where my hands naturally land on the brifters but it would be too twitchy. I know running a stem as short as 90 cm is probably a bit of a red flag on bike sizing. Standover is also doable, but cutting it close; I never unclip both feet, I always just unclip one foot and lean over a bit. I've always felt like the bike is very comfortable when I'm up on it riding it but always wondered if it's just a smidge too big - Colnagos are hard to find to test ride in person, but this one did immediately feel like the right bike when doing back to back test rides with various other brands back in 2018 when I bought it.

After close to ten years, I'm looking to upgrade to a new Colnago V4. I'm looking at three sizes: 485, 455, and 420. Stack and reach for each bike are as follows:

C-RS (48s): 527 mm stack, 382 mm reach

V4 (485): 539 mm stack, 383 mm reach

V4 (455): 522 mm stack, 375 mm reach

V4 (420): 510 mm stack, 370 mm reach

Based on these numbers, I don't think I'd want a 485 - probably a 455 or maybe even a 420? 455 seems like it would get me a little less stack and reach which might be just right (but that means probably being on a 90 mm stem again), but then looking at a 420, maybe that's even better with a bit longer stem? Or, would the 420 feel cramped?

My state just lost its only Colnago dealer, so I have to travel out of state to test ride.