This subreddit has exploded in winterization posts. I live in the Dallas area and for 15 years have never winterized my sprinklers beyond shutting off the main valve. Never had an issue even in the near zero degree conditions. Any other people in the area share what they do???

Pulled this nonsense off the irrigation group on Facebook I’ll tell you fellas that place has some ridiculous posts. Figured it’s a Good Friday night laugh for those that see.

I am tired of going into my crawlspace to turn off the backyard pipes. Is trying to put this (https://us.govee.com/products/goveelife-smart-water-timer) in there a horrible idea?

PS it was like this when we bought the house. Please save all the "you set this up wrong" responses.

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After the sprinkler guys came over to blow out the system, they discovered what they believed to be a bad basement valve. They asked me to find the sprinkler valve in the basement, unscrew the drain cap, and let it drain overnight.

So I went in the basement but had no idea what I was looking at or looking for. I noticed one valve was turned to the "off" position but I couldn't see a drain cap anywhere. I turned the valve on slightly (not sure why) and as you can guess water started to rush through. Then I looked behind the pipe and sure enough that's where the drain cap was.

I drained what I could by unscrewing the cap and after soaking myself a bit it's slowed to a drip. But now I feel like I ruined the integrity of the valve test they wanted me to do and probably need to blow out the remaining water somehow. How do I do this myself to avoid another trip charge?

Came across this PJ-25 the other day attached to a gate valve, a faucet that was tee’d into a former, non existing zone line, and yet another gate valve with a drain coupler - if you look closely, you can see the rail on top of the fence is actually galvanized 1” (my best guess). How interesting!

Can someone share the documentation rachio published for translating the watering settings to actual irrigation system operations. We are still in drought watering restrictions in the southeast based on days of the week and time of day and the water company is started to send out violation notices with very high fines. i need to understand how weather intelligence settings will affect the schedule as i have a limited number of days per week and hours per day.

I also have a tempest weather station feeding data to the rachio and i am trying to understand how that affects the rachio schedule.

This is our first year with an irrigation system (Hydrawise controller). Our guy can’t come winterize it for another week and it’s going to dip to 30 tomorrow morning for a few hours. My read on this is that I should shut the supply off, drain from test cock, and leave valves cracked half open on the backflow preventer. Is that sufficient? Should I also try to run the zones to get water out of the descending branch of the copper piping? Thanks for your help.

Got this house recently. Going to winterize and I notice the filter arrows are backwards. And the filter is gross. Filter is clean or replace? How bad is it the arrows are wrong way?

Put in four 4-inch pop-up sprinkler heads along the sidewalk side of my front yard last weekend. The problem is that this strip is only about 5 ft wide, and it’s also the path my segway automower takes when it heads back to the dock.

At first I keep the mower height around 2.4 inches and let the mower detect the sprinkler heads and go around them. That actually worked fine. But then I tried using vision off zones instead. The problem is that after a few weeks, the soil started settling and a couple of the sprinkler caps sit higher than before. Now the mower occasionally bumps into them. I’m wondering if repeated hits are bad for the sprinkler heads or the mower blades over time.

For anyone running a robot mower with pop-up irrigation, what has worked for you long term? I think removing the sprinker heads and changing the risers could work, but it just takes too much to do that. Trying to figure out the best fix.

do you know which replacements I need to get for this valve? the ones I saw online and in person dont have the same hole pattern

I hope this never fails or I’m sending a JR Mechanic with 11 sawzall blades

Water Hammer problem. Irrigation system was winterized by local irrigation company on 10/2. The irrigation line off the main vibrates, but I can't tell if that's the source or if it's outside. It happens randomly, but is more common between 10am -11am when I'm the only one home and no water is in use. The only time I've heard it before (lived here 15 years) is when I turned on the zone nearest to the house/main, then would get a brief hammer until the heads were up and spraying. 8 zone setup with hunter pro-hc controller.

Hey all,
I've been working on this app that replaces the stock OpenSprinkler UI. It's open source (MIT) and I thought some of you might find it useful.
My own setup is pretty basic (a handful of zones, nothing fancy), so more complex systems might hit rough edges. It's still an early project. And its not a drop in replacement, it uses a server side so the api password never leaves the server and it has a different login gate.
Im inviting anyone who uses opensprinklers to test it and help me by opening issues or even PRs.
its called HydroDash and can be found here: https://github.com/gilbertorconde/HydroDash
As i said, it works pretty well for my own system, but i have no way to test the other features like, for instance, sensors so.. anyway, any help would be appreciated

Just asking for a break down of this set up, if possible. Want to make sure I do it right the first time. Winterizing the irrigation. Thanks for the dumbification!

So I noticed my neighbor's drip line was cut by the yard company employed by the builder before he purchased the home. He fixed the cut, but then I noticed that there is brown line going into the yard. I thought brown is for just drip line. We are also having a issue with the area staying wet or damp. Even with sprinklers nkt running.

Past few months I’ve been going around the yard finding broken sprinklers and broken risers and fixing/capping off the ones I don’t need anymore. However, this one seems to have got me. I’m pretty sure I’ve narrowed down where the leak is coming from to some degree, but can’t fit my hand deep enough to actually know. I am by no means an expert, and have literally zero experience with irrigation before I started doing everything myself. I don’t wanna turn a small problem into a bigger one, and part of me thinks I’ll be able to get to it… but I don’t think I’d even really know how to plug it the right way. I also don’t wanna spend a bunch of money I don’t have. But, maybe it’s time I throw in the towel and let a professional stop the leak? The past couple busted sprinklers I found, tree roots had snapped the riser almost flush with where it screws in. I’m hoping that’s what happened here, and it won’t cost an arm and a leg…

Alright, i’m fairly new to drip. I got one zone that is running about 17 GPM and has such low pressure, it doesn’t register on my gauge. I tested in multiple different spots too, even tried a different gauge. Got another zone that is putting out 27 GPM and shows 15-20 PSI in multiple places on the zone. What gives? Both are 1” Hunter ICV with a filter before the manifold then a pressure regulator after each valve. One thing I know for sure, the design is SHIT. Laterals are probably 1” max, and the friction loss due to pipe size and flow has to be at least 5-7psi.

Hi all, I'm looking at buying an air compressor for sprinkler winterization (as well as other garage use) and I'm confused by the recommended CFM. As I understand it, you want a compressor that can sustain like 50psi for a while to get some air volume behind the water to get it out of the lines. Thats why the 6 gallon pancake compressors with 5cfm aren't recommended. I found a husky 30 gallon compressor but it also says 5cfm. I don't understand why they are similar cfm but drastically different volume. I would think there would be a correlation between the two.

Can I just get the Husky 30 gallon? I only have four zones with no more than six heads per. The recommended 20cfm compressors are $1000+ at least and I dont want to spend that money.

Any advice would be appreciated!

I can't figure out which piece I need - The guy who did it last year was able to blow out & connect from here, can't figure out which adapter he used. Anyone??

Morning all. Do any of you cover your backflow for irrigation in the winter after you blowout your system? I see conflicting pros and cons online.