Hey guys. I bet this has probably been answered somewhere in the sub but I'm wrecked after a rough day.

I blew out my meniscus running wood through a chipper shredder and my air compressor started spraying oil out through the sight glass.

I want to get this piece ordered ASAP but I'm finding generic results and not that specific model number attached to the ones on Amazon and eBay.

Is there a standard measurement or a way to be sure that I'm not ordering in the wrong one? I'm so tired I almost just clicked "buy now" but then I realized that would just be a bigger pain in the ass if it was wrong.

Thank you for any help you can offer. it's been a 15 hour day and I am about ready to collapse. I'm getting too old for this shit.

Hi all, i recently acquired an 1991 air compressor by the dutch brand "creemers".

it runs fine, it just smells a bit oily (air that comes out) but there is no or not much oil residu in the tank so going to investigate that later.

i wanted to start with some fresh oil since the previous owner "didn't know" (standard for never done any maintenance) . but there is some unclarity for me on what to use.

the factory sells oil in synthetic and mineral flavours and recommends mineral for home use and synthetic for professional use. ChatGPT says always go with mineral since it's an old compressor and there is certain advantages for old compressors and mineral oil.

whats reddits take on this?

Have this compressor wont
Build pressure and I cant find any like it online with the twin V pump

I just got this old compressor from my dad. He said it ran when he put it in the shop but he doesn't have the manual. I can't find one anywhere online so I'm hoping reddit might be able to help.

I'm the executive director of a long-term care facility that was built in the 1950s or 1960s.

This Quincy compressor is probably 20-25 years old. Model 430. The dryer is a Quincy QIFD 0010.

We've been having some complications with the unit as a whole. The top of this particular piece appears to have blown out the top. When this happened, the compressor tank was over pressure and wouldn't kick off. My maintenance director fabbed up a diaphragm for it and this appears to have solved that particular issue.

Can anyone advise me on what this component is? We are all scratching our heads over here.

Thank you!

Air hose separated and it ran constantly to the point of over heating and tripping the garage breaker.

Piston rings look fine and no scoring on cylinder.

However, fan lost all of its blades and compressor is noisier than before.

Everything turns freely by hand and it will start and run for a time

Area with Torx bolt shown vibrates and appears loose. Motor mount maybe?

Other than a replacement fan am I missing anything?

Bonjour,

J'ai un problème avec ce compresseur, il gère mon ralentisseur sur ma press offset (Roland 500), il ne fait plus l'aspiration.

Il y a 2 réglages, un soufflerie et un aspiration, si on tourne dans un sens où dans l'autre, ça ne s'arrête jamais.

Comment retrouver la bonne position ?

(j'ai nettoyé les filtres, contrôlé les palettes, pas trouvé de fuite sur les tuyaux.)

Il y a juste le gros filtre sous le marche pied qui a un fuite d'air sur le capuchon.

Si vous avez une idée ​​​je suis preneur.

Merci.

​​

I have a Magraw 175 PSI 21 Gal air compressor from Harbor Freight. The original aluminum tubing that went between the compressor motor output and the tank input has busted (a while ago). I thought I could go with just a 3' hose, but I have now blown out two (!!) rated for 300 PSI. I don't think its the pressure (but it obviously contributes.) It's the HEAT on the hose that is letting it expand and blow.

What do I need to do? Metal braided hose? Copper tubing? You guys are the pros, so let me have it! (And I do appreciate you taking the time to respond and assist. Peace - OUT!)

I often see people asking this question:

"The air dryer is running normally, filters are installed, but why do we still get water at the machine?"

At first, many people assume the dryer is not working properly.

But in many cases, the problem happens after the air leaves the dryer.

Some common causes:

1. Pipeline cooling

Compressed air may leave the dryer in good condition, but continue cooling while traveling through long pipelines.

If the temperature drops below the pressure dew point, water vapor can condense again inside the pipe.

This is especially common with:

- Long metal pipelines

- Outdoor piping

- Cold workshops

- Large temperature changes

1. Condensate accumulation

Water can collect in:

- Air receiver tanks

- Filter housings

- Pipeline low points

- Branch lines

If drainage is not working properly, airflow can carry liquid water downstream toward equipment.

1. Dryer status does not always represent machine inlet air quality

The condition near the compressor room may be different from the condition at the final machine.

For CNC machines, laser cutting, painting, and pneumatic automation, the actual air quality at the point of use is often more important.

I am curious how others handle this issue:

When you still see water after a refrigerated air dryer, what is usually the real cause in your experience?

- Pipeline design?

- Drain failures?

- Dryer capacity?

- Something else?

Would be interested to hear real-world cases.

Trying to find a replacement for this pressure switch/unloader valve. It came off an Air Source (by SnapOn) 80 gallon upright 2 stage w/ 5hp 240V single phase motor, with magnetic starter box. Model S580V

From what I’ve found, it’s a Square D 145/175 psi unit with 1/4NPT fittings. I’ve found similar units for sale but none with the built in unloader valve.

Any info on where to find a replacement, or recommendation on similar aftermarket alternatives?

Got a used IR UP6-5TAS-150 with 80 gallon tank from 2016. 11.5k hrs. Seems it was well maintained (at least kept to date on oil, filters etc) before it was retired and the reseller left it in the rain a few times. The actual compressor side looks fine, runs fine, sounds fine. The motor on the other hand sounds a bit crunchy (unbelted) yet spins fine. The system runs at 73 dBA, about twice as loud as the advertised 65 dBA, with the vast majority of the noise coming from the motor bearings. Tank is currently dry but putting a borescope inside revealed quite a bit of rust.

Should I go through hell to try and replace these motor bearings? Should I DIY hydro test the tank in my driveway? Or should I just send it and try to ignore the noise?

Got this because it was 2.4k with practically free shipping. Provides exactly the right pressure, cfm, and dry air for laser cutter.

I have a problem where this pump, I will use the proper adapter and the device turns on and I can feel the air pumping out of it on my hand when testing, but when I screw it into the scooter air nozzle to connect it and start the pump after, it never goes past a psi reading of 3 to 4 psi.

I have no clue what I'm doing wrong, and I've tried this on two different scooters with similair results. The psi I set it to is 50 psi but yeah, can't get it to inflate and just continuously will say 3-4 psi

Any ideas on a fix?

We’re trying to figure out what’s going on with our air compressor. When it first kicks on, it’s very loud and running at full power, which seems normal. But after it runs for a few seconds the sound noticeably drops. It stays running, but it’s much quieter than when it first starts.

The compressor is attached to a sealcoating tank, and the sealant is not coming out of the spray hose at all.

Could the compressor changing to that quieter sound be related to why the sprayer isn't working? We’re trying to figure out whether the problem is with the compressor, the tank, or something in between. Any ideas on what we should check would be greatly appreciated.

Help me pick an air compressor

Looking for a belt driven oil air compressor to use around the garage/ sprinker blow out.

I have found these two..

1. **Quincy Single-Stage Portable Electric Air Compressor, 2 HP, 24-Gallon Vertical, 7.4 CFM, Model# Q12124VP**

**https://www.northerntool.com/products/quincy-single-stage-portable-electric-air-compressor-2-hp-24-gallon-vertical-7-4-cfm-model-q12124vp-105043?cm\\_mmc=Google-pla&utm\\_source=Google\\_PLA&utm\\_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Air%20Compressors%20%3E%20Portable%20Electric%20Air%20Compressors&utm\\_campaign=Quincy%20Compressor&utm\\_content=105043&ogmap=SHP%7CPLA%7CGOOG%7CSTND%7Cm%7CSITEWIDE%7COOT%7CAirCompressorsOwnedBrands%7C%7Badgroup%7D%7C%7C19579137336%7C145742338256&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad\\_source=1&gad\\_campaignid=19579137336&gbraid=0AAAAADpPfbPciytpUxefMGvorVpLIGuML&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy4n\\_sZOzlgMVkonCCB1nHyhnEAQYByABEgLGj\\_D\\_BwE\*\*

**Or**

**2.**
**Eagle Compressor 24 Gallon Portable Electric Air Compressor**

**https://www.acmetools.com/eagle-compressor-24-gallon-portable-electric-air-compressor-p3124v1/777589001093.html?s\\_kwcid=AL%2123444%213%21%21%21%21x%21%21%2120446958857%21&gad\\_source=1&gad\\_campaignid=20446967485&gbraid=0AAAAADub60thV7k7f4GrL7TJAWSdzC8UH&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItJmtoJizlgMVXobCCB2-RinkEAkYASABEgJBxPD\\_BwE\*\*

Basically looking for 20-30 gallon with high cfm.. open to other brands as well.

Trying to find a replacement pressure switch for this compressor. The problem I'm running into is the horizontal orientation of the unloader tubing which is copper so I can't just easily reroute to what seems like the more common vertical orientation that I see on most after market switches.

Anyone can reco an Oil-Free Air Compressor that's pretty durable. I'm unsure with Reaim Air Compressors.

Got this for free and need some maintainance

I might gonna try to dissasemble it all and assemble back again.

What are the dangerous thing and what should i look for?

Howdy, this is my first experience with a wheelbarrow style compressor, I’m the most mechanically inclined in my crew so I’m taking care of it.

We get it started and it seems to run fine but 9/10 times it will build up to about 120 psi and then dump everything at once out of the red valve and not allow itself to build pressure back up.

I’m assuming it’s a bad pressure relief valve? The occasional time it will run normally and keep pressure for a bit, the air gets let off in out the green

Replace the red valve?

Posted a few weeks back, with a compressor fault. That one was rectified. We had a technician come out to repair the previous issue (filter housing leak).

Same compressor, this time I noticed a loss of air from a component in the above picture. The air is coming from the lower part underneath.

I've noticed the compressor runs a lot, and loses pressure constantly after hitting max, it's also been burning through oil numerous times.

The company I work at said they've had it serviced this year and had to top oil up at least 5 times this year.