Just curious if anyone has installed a turbo blanket on their 5th gen stock VGT turbo?

If so, how difficult was the installation?

There’s obviously not a lot of room to work, between the exhaust side of the turbo and the firewall.

I’m just wondering if it’s even possible to get the rear wire connected to the fastening posts from the top side or if the wheel liner has to be removed.

i have a 2002 ram 3500 24v 6 speed recently got it running and when i’m in 5th gear specifically and under acceleration around 1600-1800 rpm the engine starts to surge and the rpm starts to jump up and down so i shift to 6th and it does fine. Any input or idea?

Picked this thing up for 6500 bucks 3500 long box NV5600, she needs a new transfer case but other than that shes solid, and it has a aftermarket exhaust brake amongst some other bits, clean title too, with 223k on it.

This morning I was driving to work and a check engine light turned on scanned it as I was driving read p0740 I lost 6th gear and the exhaust brake drove an hour and 45 minimum to work never got hotter than 161 trans temp how often is this code a tourqe converter failure and what are some thing I should check prior to dropping the transmission praying its the solenoid but any insight is appreciated also worth noting as I was just about to get to work my exhaust brake kicked on for a split second so not sure if that points to more of a electrical issue than a failing tc never had trans problems prior to this

Been a great project truck turned daily. I love fixing it up and making it better. Next will be a turbo, windshield, tint, radio, gauges. Not necessarily in that order.. was stock when I got it, other than a heavy duty clutch

Finally bought my forever truck. What are your impressions?

Just installed this edge jwa and cant figure out why my fuel pressure is reading 25-35 at idle and normal driving. Did i hook something up wrong? I dont have a fass or airdog but there is this little weird canister thing mounted on frame smelling of fuel with a wire running from the canister to my fuse panel in the truck cab. It makes a hell of a lot of noise when key is on accessory and stopped when i unplugged the wire to the fuse panel. Upon my research it seems to be an old cheap rotary electric lift pump. Is this the reason im getting a weird fuel pressure reading? I connected the edge harness directly to the fuel filter in engine bay with the new banjo bolt and sensor. Unless i am misunderstanding something and the psi is correct. But it should be around 15 psi yes?

Well I figured since the crappy glowshit pressure gauge that came with this truck was junk I would improve on the previous setup so I made a remote pressure manifold while I was at it. I had a spare auber instruments gauge but needed a sensor and had recently installed a quadzilla adrenaline that needed a fuel pressure sensor and replacement egt sensor.

Did some research and determined that the quad used a 0-100psi 0-5v pressure transducer and the egt used a standard k type thermocouple. Found these Phoenix sensors made in America for 40 bucks a pop and a k type thermocouple with a plug kit included for 16 bucks on Amazon.

Made an adapter plug with the included plug to plug the thermocouple into the quad and my egt temps are reading within 40deg of my gauge. The pressure reads about 1/2 psi different on the quad than my gauges but that's to be expected since the quad had less resolution.

Put on a S&B cold CAI a few days ago.

Today, it's like all hell broke loose. I was driving down the interstate, watching the DPF fill up absurdly fast. Went into limp mode. Got the CEL, the code, and the DPF secondary code.

After I did the installation, I noticed some stuttering and hesitation when at low RPMs. I chocked it up to some relearning. Either way, I went home, checked all the connections again, checked the MAF (and gasket), and the hot/cold side piping. Everything seemed in order. I did "the pedal dance" thing, no change. Took the negatives off the batteries for about an hour, no change. So I went and did another check of all the connections, wiring, you get the point.

I checked the MAP today, it was sort of dirty so I cleaned it. I did get the oiled filter. MAF looks fine and didn't feel any oil residue on it.

I'm stumped. I know I could put the stock system back on, but I'm already in limp mode.

For the love of Robin Williams, can anyone give me any other ideas.

Stock tune, no other mods. Never had any other issues. Just got to 90k miles. Not under warranty.

Just put a new tuner on my 99 24 valve, it already had an older model juice with attitude so i didnt have to drill the manifold for the egt or anything just basically replaced the old wiring harness, screen, and box. Super excited to see how it works and mess with it.

Looking for some advice on what exactly i can do with it, being im new to diesel performance mods lol. Im not looking to blow my truck up or anything but for example, in the long run what can i do to maintain it? Injectors, turbo modifications? Next step for the truck is a lift pump. Speaking of that, when i turn the key to accessory and the wait to start light comes on, my fuel pump is insanely loud. So loud i can hear it in the cab of my truck. I crawled under there to see if a previous owner installed a frame mounted fass or something, but theres nothing there. I am just shocked because i was unaware that the fuel pump could be that noisy without an aftermarket lift pump on there? Or am i just stupid? Again im new to diesels so info is appreciated

I finally got introduced to the death wobble my tie rods went out I’ve been looking everywhere for a pre assembled set up bet everything I get have to return because it’s way thinner and weaker then the factory set where can I find a good set up that I’m not gonna spend a arm and a leg

Deleted the emissions yesterday, love it just have a question :

I didn’t remove the egr, do I need to unplug the egr and throttle valve or is it fine to leave it plugged in?
Tuned it though ez link with ampd tune file just wondering if it’s necessary because I hate messing with those clips lol

Sold my last one 15 years ago and instantly regretted it -on the hunt since then.

One owner and always dealer serviced (have all records) with 160k miles. Krown rust treated from new but paint is roached on the hood and tops of fenders and I also needed to install new headlights right away. Luckily the sides are coming back with rubbing compound.

I drove it 800 miles home hauling my car on a dolly and the truck reads 22 MPG. The console usually lies but I am fairly sure this is close as I got over 600 miles before needing a 2nd fuel up.

Just did the oil and all filters as well as replaced the diff cover as it didn't look great. To pass safety all it needed was 1 lower ball joint and 1 tie rod end.- now to fix the dozen little things that get ignored LOL

I’ve got an early 3rd gen, Common rail 5.9 w/ 47Re, I’m curious on what the amp rating is on the fusible link wires between the positive post and both grid heater relays. I believe they’re 12 gauge wires. I want to replace them due to the age of the truck. I’ve already replaced the rest of the battery cables. Would it be better to put 2 fuses inline or buy new fusible links? Thank yall for any advice you through this way!!

Ive got a 2018 2500 with a race me ultra tuner. It shows +/- 10 rpm on the tc speed when it is locked (TQ-S on the tuner). Does t seem like much but also isnt zero like id assume in my smooth brain. Thank you all

My 06 2500. So this morning popped off the old girl and the turbo is extra loud through the air cleaner, whistle sounds like a douch with a straight piped 6.0 L, without digging into it just seeing if anyone has experience this, also is there a silencer ring in this style hair dryer thanks everyone.

Just picked up this Ole girl from Maine for 20k. Bought it from the second owner who had it for a year. No rust on the body (theres been repairs over the years but they look good). Frame looks like its been properly treated. Mostly no issues on the 4 hour drive home. Only problem I'm having is losing power under heavy acceleration. Its a sharp cutoff that will just hold rpm until you let off the gas. Easing on the gas itll rev up just fine. Maybe failing lift pump? I was told fuel filter was done 1k miles ago

ETA: all stock aside from 3" leveling kit and tires

How much do yall think my 2003 5.9 6sp with 98k miles would go for, practically a grandpa truck

I had this issue last year where the HVAC caught fire a little bit. Some smoke and the smell of a campfire and a little googling steered me towards removing the blower and cleaning leaves out the squirrel cage fan. That's when I learned that our trucks don't have any sort of air filter whatsoever... not even a cowl screen.

Well, tonight I learned I should've taken more of it apart for a deep clean. It's fire season here in SoCal, on my way home from work I smelled smoke and thought there must be a new fire popping up. Not until I saw smoke coming from my vents did I realize that fire was coming from within my HVAC system. By the time I was able to safely pull over, the blower box had lit itself literally on fire and was dripping ABS molten plastic onto the carpet and continuing to burn. ABS burns quite easily. I'm a plumber, I should know this. Luckily I had an old diet soda that I used to quench most of the fire. I found a backflow device nearby and filled up an empty bottle real quick (plumber skills in full effect) and tossed it against the box repeatedly.

The drive home was a constant smelly reminder that I should've taken the whole dang thing apart because there's 28 years of leaf material (and probably a dead mouse or two) just waiting to spontaneously combust. Apparently even though the engine and heater core don't get hot enough to ignite leaves, the resistor or some electrical component does. And now I have the smelly chore of figuring out how to fabricate a little door on that box to better service my HVAC system on this damn Dodge.

Ugh.