r/DIYBeauty • u/The_Seam_Ripper • 7d ago
formula feedback Face formula help
Im new formulations and I have made some pretty great lotions. That being said, I thought I'd also be good at moisturizing face creams. I was wrong. I've have gone through many samples but this is my latest
Distilled water 54.90
Glycerin 1.0
Desodium EDTA 0.10
Allentoin 0.50
LotionPro 165 4.0
Montanov 202 2.50
CreamMaker Benhenyl 2.50
Shea 4.0
Squalane 6.0
Isopropyl myristate 2.0
Sepimax Zen 0.50
Evening primrose 4.0
Prickly Pear oil 3.0
Bakuchio 1.0
Niacinamide powder 4.0
D-panthenol powder 0.50
Alpha Arbutin 2.0
Vit E 0.50
Liquid Germall 0.50
DryFlo 1.0
Please be kind, like I said, im new to face formula. I need something ultra super moisturizing. Thank you in advance ☺️
Edit to add %
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u/Ok_Butterscotch_2700 7d ago
Without percentages, we’re looking at an inventory list. What’s your target pH?
What is the purpose of the DryFlo?
I’m all for combining emulsifiers, but having difficulty understanding your combination here.
Why only one ester?
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u/The_Seam_Ripper 7d ago
% posted
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u/-Arch 7d ago edited 7d ago
Using all 3 of those emulsifiers at those amounts is probably your culprit in this case. Try using just one of them at it's recommended value (4% for 165, 3% for 202 or creammaker) and go from there. If you don't like how it feels, try one of the other ones. There's no need to combine any of those three. Keeping the sepimax in is fine to thicken the water phase and add extra stability.
I'd still say to pull out the dryflo for now, and adjust your oils as necessary if it's too greasy for you.
1% glycerin is also fairly low if you want something moisturizing, though the 0.5% panthenol is fine. You could try bumping the glycerin up to 3-5% and see how it feels. If it's too tacky but it's providing the moisture you want, then again look to adjusting your oil phase - or ingredients that can detack like pentylene glycol or even the dryflo.
Edit: Also maybe pull out your various actives (bakuchiol, niacinamide, alpha arbutin, allantoin) until you have a more basic formula that you like the feel of. Add them back in afterwards. Save yourself some money lol
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u/The_Seam_Ripper 7d ago
Wow thanks! You know in all of my research I thought i needed to mix emulsifyers to get the right consistency and structure, so thank you i will just start out with one. I suppose im used to thinking about co-emulsifyers in my body lotions but I see now I dont need to combine. And your right, im gonna eliminate a few things until I get the right formula down. I think I misunderstood someone's comment when I posted about emulsifyers: there was a recommendation for 2 and I assumed i needed to use both. This was good feed back, appreciate you. Any helpful websites you know of?
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u/The_Seam_Ripper 7d ago
Ph is strictly 5.5 to 6 Should I use more than one ester? 2hat do you suggest? I asked Google about the combo of emulsifyers and it said those were a great combo and 2ent into the why. Dryflo was suggested a mattifyer and hopefully help with the wax coating feel
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u/-Arch 7d ago
Google as in the ai overview? Ai doesn't really know anything when it comes to cosmetics, or anything in general but that's a different discussion lol.
You'll definitely want to share the percentages for everything you're using, because they can help a lot. I'd leave something like dryflo out until you have a formula that you're already happy with, then consider adding it back in if you want the mattifying effect it can bring.
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u/GuardNeat4799 7d ago
That's quite the ingredient list, fair play for experimenting so early on. montanov and lotionpro give you two different emulsifiers which might be making the structure a bit unstable. i'd stick to one system until you nail the texture you're after, then tweak the oil phase for more slip and moisture.