Wondering if there's a simple fix for this. Over the hot summer our front door started getting sticky to use. The door had sagged a little which I was able to fix by just tightening some screws. But even without closing the door the multipoint lock is not fully retracting unless you pull sharply down on the handle.

In the video you can see that if I pull down on the handle gently it leaves a little of the multipoint parts still proud. If I pull down sharply they will fully retract. It didn't used to do this.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi everyone,
I have a Wickes corner pull‑out “magic corner” unit. The curved plastic cam is firmly attached to the front frame.

I’ve attached a video of the mechanism.
Can anyone identify the exact model (likely Häfele / Peka / Magic Corner II)?

Thanks in advance.

https://reddit.com/link/1x8zf12/video/yyok9eb987wh1/player

Hello! Thanks for all the good advice on this shared driveway previously. I got someone to clean it down and power wash so we can see what we’re working with. I think we can get away with just redoing the tarmac at the front and patching the back to minimize costs. What would be the most economical way to re-cover? (Other than gravel which is a no because people had a tendency to let their dogs shit anywhere they please when it was covered in grass.)

Can I please get some knowledgeable advice on how to remove these small paint splatters from these brick slips (not regular bricks) in my kitchen? I want to remove the paint without smearing it and making it more visible. The paint is Dulux Trade vinyl matt if it makes a difference.

Before anyone asks, no it wasn't me. It was the building contractors' decorators and I don't trust them to fix it without making it worse (they clearly tried as you can see in the last photo and made it worse). Thanks in advance.

Hi guys, I'm really bad at DIY but I'm trying to learn.

Toilet is constantly flushing. I've watched some videos and found a leaver mechanism that pushes all the way down or up (which I assume controls the float?), however it doesn't actually fix the water level issue, it continues to flow over regardless where it's positioning is.

The centre thing with the red cable turns counter clockwise 70 degrees but that red cable prevents it from turning entirely by colliding with the overflow pipe, I've tried pulling the cable out or finding a latch to release it but I can't do it, I could yank harder but I'm worried I'll break it.

Other videos online and their toilets looks very different to mine? If someone could advise how I can fix it, I want to impress my wife 😂

Hi all,

I'm looking for some external advice after being left unhappy with the position of the toilet in our newly refurbished small bathroom.

To my mind the toilet sits very close to the wall- it is 9cm away. If I sit on the toilet naturally my shoulder rubs the wall, and I'm not a large person. Seems uncomfortable not just odd. The gap the toilet sits in is wide enough for a 20cm gap on either side (which I think is the recommended clearance).

The external soil pipe is cast iron (into the wall rather than the floor) and I guess a real pita to move. My question is whether the fitter could (should?) have used diagonal pipe/offset/Flexi connectors within the wall (which was rebuilt for the renovation) to gain the extra 10cm? Or if even a 5cm gain would make a substantial difference to feel? And what can we do in retrospect now that it's been done this way- any options?

The fitter is holding firm on this being what I requested and there's no flaw in the installation (though I feel we should have been warned). So I guess we'll probably have to lump it. I'm looking for a sanity check here and any pragmatic options.

Anyway, I know it may be impossible to tell without hands on inspection, but I've attached photographs any thoughts much appreciated.

Hi

I need some advice. We live in a Victorian property, and when we took the radiator off, the plaster behind it came away. I’ve removed all the loose plaster as best I can. I’m wondering about the gaps around the door and skirting board, can I fill these with expanding foam? Or should I leave a gap to prevent moisture from affecting the new plaster?

Thanks

We are moving house, and our plan is to develop the already tanked out cellar room (with external door) as a Kitchen/ Diner.

As part of this, we will be installing floor insulation/ floating floor, so adding around 70 to 80mm to the cellar floor.

This will obviously raise the floor below the staircase - my concern is that this means that not all stair treads are even, so it will not meet building regs.

What, if anything, are the options here (house is 1850s, stone cellar stairs part of fabric of the building)

Thanks for any thoughts!

Replacing a fire alarm the pictured chalk block was inside the old fire alarm enclosure the new fire alarm enclosure does not have the space to house the chock block and only requires a live neutral and interconnect cable coming from the chalk block. The obvious answer is to simply push the chock block up into the ceiling cavity but BS says all connections should be enclosed. as you can see from the size of the hole I could not put these connections in an enclosure and then still push them back up through the hole. obviously I do not want to make the whole bigger because obviously I need to fit the new fire alarm over it. Options?

Seen on amazon, apparently the price history has it at £650 before. I was looking at batteries for a DeWalt tool I bought recently but for the same price I can return the DeWalt tool and get four Makita tools plus three 5Ah batteries. Is there any reason not to go for this?

EDIT: Okay yeah, it's got to be fake. Seller has just joined and has no reviews. Sad times </3 Thanks everyone

Can I put this 13amp fuse in my Tassimo coffee machine?

The original fuse and fuse holder has gone missing

Thank you

Found some nice timber under layers of gloss on our staircase, I’d like to strip it and have the natural wood finish. What’s the best way do strip the gloss? I have used a furniture scraper for a small portion and tried an electric sander but the pads gummed up very quickly with the layers of old paint.

I have plastered wall. Was done maybe 5 years ago. Recently repainted and these raised parts have appeared. Any ideas what might be causing it; and, any possible solutions?

Thank you in advance for any help.

EDIT: I should mention, the entirety of the rest of the wall is ice smooth from the original plastering, just this one patch, roughly 12inch wide and 24inch high in the middle of the wall.

Hi

I think the fan in my oven has failed, the oven heats okish at lower temperatures, but slows/stops and the fan is not running when it should.

How easy is it to replace an oven fan? Its an AEG, which is a brand I've had a lot of problems with and am reluctant to spend much more on. Its 6 years old.

Does anyone know what this may be? It has a left handed thread on it and when I turn clockwise it can come off and then it leaks quite a lot, but not full pressure.

I assumed it was some form of thermostatic valve but when I tighten it fully (anti-clockwise) it doesn’t seem to stop the flow.

Do I need to plaster these walls or should I just fill the cracks and do a mist coat and paint ?

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

7 year old Ariston combi-evo boiler; never had any problems so far with it.

Had a boiler service / gas safety check in April, all fine and dandy, didn’t turn the CH on until yesterday. Boiler sounds fine, no errors or new sounds, all rads piping hot. I bled the rads before hand, no trapped air. Refilled the pressure back to 1.5 bar; it’s been 1.5 bar since the boiler service, hasn’t dropped at all in 7 months.

Put the heating on for an hour to test it, pressure went up over 3 bar (red line) which was concerning. Next morning, pressure was down to 1 bar so .5 bar dropped. Bled rads again (no air), refilled to 1.5 bar and did another hour of CH, exact same pressure drop.

I had a look outside whilst the heating was on at the small old copper pipe on the wall thinking it was the PRV pipe but not a drop coming out (it looks decommissioned). The water coming out of the condensate pipe into the gutter however looks a lot more than usual, but I could be mistaken. Does anybody know if the PRV could be draining into the condensate pipe instead?

There’s no obvious plumbing leaks anywhere, pipework seems sound, and given how much water I’ve had to refill, I think I’d see a damp patch by now (I even used my heat FLIR cam on the ceilings and no damp / cold areas at all).

I put a nail in a pipe years ago and the pressure dropped to 0 bar within 10 minutes even though it was a tiny hole so I doubt it’s a pipe leak issue. Boiler pressure only drops again after central heating is used, showers and taps running hot with no effect on pressure.

Sorry it’s a long post, just wanted to pre-empt any questions I might get asked. Getting the boiler guy back out this week, just wondering if anybody can add any suggestions I haven’t thought of yet?

Cheers 🙏

I’ve booked a week off work to paint my entire house only problem is a don’t know what colour to paint it. What I do know is:

1. For the ceilings, kitchens and bathrooms I’m going to use Dulux Trade Vinyl Matt - Pure Brilliant White
   
2. The carpets are currently grey but downstairs flooring is going to be natural oak herringbone LVT and upstairs is going to be a light creamy carpet
   
3. I want the paint to be Dulux

Can anyone suggest neutrals or greys that don’t yellow and aren’t go dark

I have a few carpentry jobs in the house such as sanding, minor router work, some cutting and assembly, applying top coats, painting wood work etc. List goes on and is piling up. Nothing too complex.

All materials and tools are available with me.

I don't have the time or energy to get things done and might as well give it to a student and will pay them a decent wage for sure. They can gain experience and if need be I can endorse and provide feedback /reference.

How do I go about looking for one? Should I contact training schools or advertise somewhere?

I'm about 3mm out, must I move the brackets or?

Spent yesterday carefully taking down a mature tree in our back garden. I used my scaffold and reciprocating saw to slowly cut each branch into manageable sections and then attacked the trunk in chunks. Top of the tree was almost at roofline, so knew I needed to take my time. Great sense of accomplishment once it was down and stump treatment was applied.

I then got over confident…

Went to tidy up some leylandii trunks that were around 2.5m tall and had been too big for my old saw blade to get through. A chunky 1m section ended up toppling down uncontrolled and obliterated my food waste bin. Very glad it went that direction instead of straight onto my head.

Remember, wood can be really heavy and can cause serious injuries if it hits you, or equipment that you are using. Thank you food caddy for your sacrifice 🫡

My other tip for anyone contemplating a similar task: branches tend to look quite a smaller than they actually are when you are looking up at them!

The flat above us has a water waste pipe facing the brick that’s just flooding the shared yard. Surely this can’t be right?

EDIT - To confirm, I know how condensation works, I just thought it was not that common to see so much of it on double glazed windows. I've always had single glazed windows in the past - The other reason I was surprised by it is that nobody sleeps in this bedroom, we sleep in another room with the door shut so it's not moisture from our breath - Also other double glazed windows in the house like the kitchen are fine

- Victorian terrace house in North-west England

- Temperature dropped to around 4 degrees last night outside, around 17 inside

- Generally we take measures to avoid damp (regularly open windows, extractor fan and window open when using shower, extractor in kitchen)

- Had some windows replaced last year: Swapped single glazed windows for double glazed in 2 bedrooms, the bathroom and the lounge bay window.

- Currently the only single glazed windows are the patio door and one upstairs bedroom

- Kitchen had already been double glazed for years

With all this, I am surprised we are seeing quite a lot of condensation on the new double glazed windows? Is this normal?

In the photo, the water across the bottom is on the inside.

The water that goes higher up is on the outside.

There doesn't seem to be any water in between the two panes.