Thanks for the help everyone. Today was a nice sunny day so I raced around, trying to align all the pieces. Walked from my hotel—the mighty ‘Ukraine Hotel’—to the train station to understand the route and tried to find an information desk, or tourist kiosk or something. Eventually I was advised—Thanks Google Translate!—to take the underpass and look for anyone in an orange jacket. I found a woman at a desk and managed to explain that “I was interested in an overnight train ticket to Chisinau, and that I would be bringing a bike.” She responded that I would need my Ukrainian passport and a note of authorization (or something like that). My Ukrainian passport?! Isn’t it obvious that I’m unavailable to speak a syllable?! Holy crow!
Having walked past a bus station just a few hundred meters before the train station I walked back there, examined bus baggage compartments (not good news) then asked at a ticket booth. Woman said, “Ask the drivers.” So I did, with the appropriate text on my phone screen. First bus rep seemed to say “F off.” His coworker was a bit more sympathetic, and took me over to… the first gal who had suggested that I ask bus crews. OK, I got the message: with that shelf welded into the storage areas, a bike that wasn’t disassembled wasn’t going to fit.
I walked back to the train station to ask about the inter-city trains that didn’t cross borders, but no orange vests were to be seen. I walked back towards Ukraine Hotel, but stuck my head in a 4-star hotel, asking about travel agencies that might be able to help me. He was a great help, saying that the tourist support industry was basically gone, but I COULD take an international train IF the ticket was booked by a Ukrainian, for me. (He used the Ukraine Rail app to tell me that availability looked good over the next few days, but he added that the app was only in Ukrainian. (Maybe I can get him to help me book an overnight ticket for this Friday tomorrow…)
Lots of detail here, but just sharing what I currently believe to be the situation. Next thing for me to do is find a bike bag or tarp and tape, so that my bike is actually allowed on the train. AI told me to visit Katay Bike, 21 Chykalenka, but they didn’t have bike bags. Then AI tried to get me to a hardware store in the maze of underground shops by Bessarabsky, but after 40 minutes still couldn’t find it. Bought bed sheets and a big roll of tape, so I’m hoping that the conductor will give me points for effort.
Anyway, that’s where things stand. I’m nervous as heck about having an “Online Ticket” for a sleeping compartment, on an app that I can’t even read. I’m nervous about finding the right track, the right car, and the right cabin.
I will pay someone to show up at the train station before boarding begins, and make sure that I don’t screw this up. I imagine that my travel day will be this Thursday or Friday. Thanks everyone!