got basically the whole TG lineup for this build. delid-die-mate + heater for the 270K Plus, mycro direct-die pro, conductonaut extreme, putty pro and a pile of minus pads. the 4070 ti super isnt getting off easy either, its getting an elmorlabs evc2se, a shunt mod, waterblock, LM with the gpu guard. Basically the full spa treatment

Just installed the Wireview 2 Pro Noctua on my 5090 Aorus Master, never had any issues until this install, reseated the cables multiple times, no gaps at all good connections. Cable and card look perfect no signs of any problem.

Thought maybe that the card was just at idle so booted up a test. Immediate alarm so shut it off. Now I'm scared to even use the computer... any advice appreciated.

Normally you just plug it into the gpu but I saw Roman's video where he used extender cables. so just wondering if it is possible? I would just need two?

Hi.

I have an Aorus Master 5090.

When I receive the WV II Pro

1. Would I expect it's FW up to date since it was just received by my retailer? It was out of stock for a long time (Microcenter) and just appeared in stock today

2. Is it possible for me to to update the FW and modify the settings with TG app using a USB C to device and a USB A into a back port of the motherboard (not Internal USB header)?

3. What's the latest FW version currently?

Thanks

The standard (wireless) version of WVP 2 has a temp sensor internally on its PCB both on the gpu and psu side. Because of close proximity to the gpu power connector, it can monitor temps. But the wired version separates the main WVP 2 device from the gpu power connector by a 40cm power cable. Is it correct to say the wired WVP 2 no longer monitors the gpu power connector temps?

Was quite happy to find out the wired version I had to buy via Amazon was legit (worried me after 5 or so days with no movement). Excited for the build to get here and join the rest of you in constant fear monitoring! 🤣

Posting this because some people might not know about this. And losing their warranty coverage isn't really fun. Though I couldn't find anything about this of it in the warranty terms, and the feature itself is actually labeled as optional in the manual.

Per: https://www.reddit.com/r/ThermalGrizzly/comments/1x5vzrn/comment/pgr8g2k/

EDIT: No longer relevant - clarification by a Thermal Grizzly employee. https://www.reddit.com/r/ThermalGrizzly/comments/1x9c36i/comment/phkc86d/

Hi, I have a 9950x3d2 on the msi godlike x edition motherboard and a msi lightning z 5090 which I will be converting to use in a custom loop. Im using 3 360mm 48mm thick heatkiller rads and the stealkey SK-Crosscool III distroplate.

I know liquid metal is by far the best performance which is important to me when using the components I have, but according to YouTube videos by thermal grizzly the performance is only 2-3 degrees better than other options when in a custom loop.

Given that some of my parts are limited edition and very expensive/irreplaceable, is it even worth the risk of breaking them for those lower temps? And if not, what is recommended instead? Thanks!

Edit: Also I bought a delidded version of the cpu to use for LM. If I don't use LM will I have to resort to a normal cpu with the IHS? Or can certain TIM like kryosheet or ptm work with it? Thanks!

I’m doing my first build and have an ROG Strix 1000w PSU. I didn’t know about the equalizer cable interfering with the WireView Pro. I haven’t opened it yet, but the videos look like it’s its own separate cable. If I leave it unplugged, will that allow the WireView to read the currents on both sides of the cable? Thanks in advance.

 Hey everyone, I recently picked up a WireView Pro 2 to monitor the 12V-2x6 (12VHPWR) connection on my RTX 5090.

I really want to utilize the automatic shutdown feature (alarm cable) if the GPU power pins get too hot. As you know, to activate this, the device needs to intercept the motherboard's power switch (PWR_SW) header.

Here is my issue. I’m building in an Antec Flux Pro case, which uses a single, unified front panel connector block (F_PANEL) rather than the older style of split, individual cables.

I know I need a front panel breakout/splitter cable to separate the PWR_SW connection. I've bought a few generic extensions on Amazon, but none of the male jumper pins properly fit or lock securely into my case's unified connector.

How are you all handling this for modern cases with unified front panel blocks? Is there a specific, high-quality F_PANEL breakout cable you've used that actually fits securely so the WireView auto shutdown can be enabled?

I was about to install my WireView Pro 2 on my Gainward RTX 5090 Phantom, but I noticed that if I plugged it in there would be 0 space for me to unplug it later on, and that is if it actually goes all the way in as my Noctua NH-D15 looks like it would get in the way as well. Why does this have be plugged into the GPU in the first place and doesn't have a short cable sticking out of it that plugs into the GPU for easy removal? If I plugged it in without checking if I could remove it later, it would have been a massive headache. Would I be able to get a refund on this?

Honestly, I got an RTX 5080 prime and i'm using xOCD to go over the power limit and considering the state of affairs right now i'm a bit concerned about doing any damage to the connector.

Would you say that buying wireview for an rtx 5080 is reasonable with my usage? I'm also unsure whether i should go for the Noctua version over the normal version. It costs 70USD more.

Thank you.

Wire installing the WV pro 2, I messed up and broke the pin on the power switch wire. Is there somewhere I can get a replacement?

Totally my bad. Feel so bad about it.

Last night I had my very first scare of a melting connector.

Was playing Blood of Dawnwalker, trying out the DLSS 5 Shortfuse tool. It looked amazing.

I had really good load balancing, but after about 3 hours of playing, the alarm sounded! I never switched my PC off so quickly before.

I checked all connections (except my PSU connectors) and all seem fine.

BUT I am now struggling with Load balancing. Would my cable be damaged? My Pin 6 indicator shows a lot less load when gaming.

Should I go back to the original GPU adapter and ditch my MODDIY cable?

For reference, Im running an Astral 5090 LC OC and my cable is a MODDIY 2 x 8pin to 12v-2x6 adapter.

Hello

I am not super familiar with all the settings but after updating to the latest bios V05 sometimes my wireview pro 2 wired will show just a few stats at startup with a different screen format and I have to go into the settings of the app and toggle something for it to switch back to the overview where it shows all the pins, watts being pulled etc. The screen it keeps defaulting to just lists like one pin and some temp information. Any idea why it keeps switching back to this at startup? There is no imbalance or high temp when its doing this so I dont think it is trying to warn me of anything. After doing the toggle I can run furmark or something and see that the pins are balanced so I really dont understand why its doing this.

Even though I dont currently have an imbalance I have been battling a Superflower 1300w that keeps having the PSU side get imbalanced, forcing me to shut down and reseat them.

Edit: https://i.imgur.com/jV4nyJa.jpeg

After posting this I tried to toggle the setting to get it to go away, and NOTHING I could do in the settings would get it off this screen. Sometimes when I would toggle something the screen would retain (on the actual unit) the previous settings and it would create a double image of the settings on the screen like I was being given two different screens layered on top of one another. I set the default to main once more and restarted which fixed it. Seems like there is some sort of bug in switching display modes. Just to be clear, I got the double screen bug before V05 as well but it refusing to show the regular main screen was not something I had issues with before.

for anyone reading this wanting to talk trash about TG, ThermalGrizzly Wireview is the only thing keeping my card from melting down with all the other crap going on in its design and I am incredibly thankful and would not hesitate for second buying another!

Grizzly_Erik

•2d ago

Top 1% Commenter

Hi. 90° adapters usually contain a circuit board on which all the pins are bridged. Such adapters—as well as some cables—have bridged pins; these must not be used because they prevent accurate measurements, and as a result, we can no longer provide a warranty on the GPU connector.
Extension cables that are not bridged can be used.

I am quite happy with greyscale meters and the like, like you'd have on a graphing calculator since you'd probably be able to do the whole WVII data metering without it.

Edit: as an aside, I am also surprised the noctua edition isn't wired either.

Hi everyone,

I'm using an ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 5090 OC with a Thermal Grizzly WireView Pro II Wired, and I'd appreciate some feedback.

I previously experienced several Current Imbalance FAULT warnings in WireView, particularly when the GPU was drawing around 450–535 W.

I recently disconnected and reseated the power connections on both the PSU cable and WireView side, making sure everything was firmly inserted.

Since doing that, I haven't seen any new Current Imbalance warnings in the screenshots I've captured, although two of the six conductors still consistently carry slightly less current than the others.

I also started lowering the GPU Power Limit using MSI Afterburner, first to 80% and then 75%.

Here are my readings:

These readings were taken after reseating the connectors. Before that, I had recurring imbalance warnings, but I don't have the exact earlier per-wire readings available for a reliable comparison.

At 75% Power Limit, the GPU is now drawing approximately 460 W, with individual conductor currents between 5.9 and 6.9 A.

The voltage stays around 11.98 V, and WireView's onboard temperatures are around 23–27°C. I understand these are not direct measurements of individual connector contact temperatures.

All WireView fault indicators currently show OK.

My questions:

1. Is a difference of approximately 0.8–1.0 A between the highest- and lowest-current conductors normal at around 460 W?
2. Should I be concerned that conductors 2 and 3 consistently carry less current than the others?
3. Could the previous Current Imbalance warnings have been caused by a connector that wasn't fully seated?
4. Does this current distribution look acceptable, or would you recommend replacing the cable or having the connectors inspected?
5. Has anyone with an ASUS TUF RTX 5090 and WireView Pro II seen similar readings?

I'm aware that lowering the power lmit reduces current but doesn't necessarily fix a bad electrical connection, correct?

Thanks!

Idk what should i do and how do i get it polished more.

Ik that i should polish it but what do i use etc ?

so bummed to get a defective unit, odered directly from TG. 😭

I’m considering getting the WVP2 for my 5090, I have my pc in another room and a 33ft fiber hdmi cable into my game too so my game room stays cool, so I won’t be able to hear an audible alarm form the pc considering its very far away from me physically and I game with noise cancelling Sony headphones too. I’m wondering if there is a Test feature that would pop up on my monitor screen for the alarm that I could test out during gaming to make sure it actually notifies me since I won’t have the audible noise to alert me ?