ATTENTION! IF YOU TRY THIS YOU DO THIS UNDER YOUR OWN RISK! I KNOW 2 PEOPLE THAT BRICKED THERE PRINTERS!!!

Tengo la kobra 2 pro desde hace unos años y la cobra 3 V2 está desde enero, he estado tratando de mejorar la kobra 2 pro y esta semana le he estado dedicando más tiempo si tienen dudas pueden preguntar y usaré lo que está en mi conocimiento para responder

Had an issue with some glitter/translucent filament and I made sure everything is cleaned properly connected and such but now it won't take any filament in any slot.

Stampante Kobra S1 Max

Stampato in PETG sunlu a 250°C con porta chiusa e vetro superiore appena aperto per estrarre il calore ed evitare i risaputi blocchi all'ugello, Perché succede? Una superfice così brutta e quella bolla d'aria al centro, il pezzo è grosso circa 300x300mm

Hi. I'm looking to purchase the Ace 2 Pro, but as were I live is very humid, I'm wondering if the sealing ring is really good, before making the purchase.

Like, if I leave the filaments inside it, without opening it, will they remain at the same humidity level a few days later. Not asking about long term storage, just about a few days/couple of weeks at most. I want to not have to store the filament right after a print, when I know that I'll be printing something with that filament a couple days later.

From your experience, can the Ace 2 Pro allow for this kind of laziness? 😂

Thanks

oi pessoal! é a segunda vez q tenho problema com a anycubic kobra x. ha menos de um mes atras, eu tive que pedir um cabecote novo pro suporte pq o filamento ficou preso e nao saia de forma alguma. enviaram e resolvi

ontem, eu estava fazendo uma impressao e a impressora desligou sozinha e nao ligava por nada. abri toda a impressora e vi q nada estava queimado, mas o filamento estava preso no cabecote. quando eu desconectei o cabo que liga o cabecote na impressora, ela voltou a ligar e aparece essa mensagem na tela, o que me leva a crer é que o problema é novamente o cabecote.

eu entrei em contato com o suporte mas honestamente queria o estorno da impressora, pq não é normal em menos de um mes esse cabecote que é novo dar problema de novo. alguem sabe o que pode ter acontecido?

Hi,

I've run into some problems with my S1 Max. Bought six weeks ago, started out fine, then dropped the front plate mid print (AI detection didn't do shit) and smashed into the print. Resulting in a wrecked nozzle and warped front plate. Since then I basically didn't get one good, trouble free print larger than a Benchy.

Leveling seems off, corners are higher than the center of the build plate (ran around 25 first layer tests, center is perfect), prints peel of the build plate more often than not.

What I've done so far:

-Cleaned the PEI plate with soap and water as well as alcohol

-Tried a different build plate

-Cleaned and lubed Z-Axis lead screws

-Checked belts

-Checked printhead for loose screws (heats ink turned out to be wobbly)

I don't know how to fix this and am THIS close to just returning the printer and buying a Qidi Max4.

The spool holder that comes with it takes too much space so I printed one which makes it top mounted but how do I remove the old one?

Running a M7 ACF film 885 hours. Never had any issues with it other than the expected random failures. A few days ago I noticed several failures on the front center of my build plate. If ypu break down the build plate into two rows of three, it would be section 2. In that area the prints stick to the release film and not the build plate. I knew a release film change was due so I attributed the failures to that. Went ahead and replaced the ACF and two more prints later with failures in the same area. Thought I may have installed the film incorrectly. I spun the vat around and printed a different file but the same area failed again. I have a brand new backup build plate with ACF factory installed. Swapped it out and reprinted the exact same file. That print also failed in the exact same way.

Exposure test show no dead areas and the many vat clean up exposures print a solid sheet. That seems to indicate the screen is fine.

My next step can only be a level test but I don't know how the plate would have gotten out of level and how all four corners and the back center are still level and printing perfectly and that one section is not.

Any suggestions? Despite the evidence I am led to believe its a screen going bad, but how do I know other than spending $150 for a new screen?

Edit: Just FYI in case it helps, I have been resin printing for 7 years. Started way back with the og Photon S. After many years and upgrades currently running the M7(not pro or max)

Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo — First layer squished into the bed despite correct paper test and auto-leveling

Hi everyone,

I'm having a frustrating first-layer issue with my Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo, and I'd appreciate some help diagnosing it.

My setup

- Printer: Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo

- Firmware: Stock firmware (v1.5.6.4)

- Slicer: Anycubic Slicer Next, default Kobra 2 Neo profile

- Build plate: Original PEI sheet

- Auto-leveling: Original inductive probe

- Hardware: No modifications

- Software: No recent firmware updates or configuration changes

The problem

My nozzle is too close to the build plate when the print starts. The first layer is completely squished, and the nozzle scrapes against the PEI bed, including during the purge line.

The strange thing is that the Z-offset seems correct before printing.

Here's what I've checked so far:

- I performed auto-leveling.

- I manually checked the nozzle-to-bed distance using the paper test, and it feels correct.

- My current Z-offset is -1.45 mm.

- After homing the printer, the nozzle-to-bed distance still seems correct when checked with paper.

- I also tried printing an official Anycubic test file, but the exact same problem occurs.

Since the problem also happens with an official test file, I'm not sure whether this is caused by the Z-offset, the inductive probe, the bed mesh, or something else.

What I've tried / observed

The paper test looks good before printing, but as soon as the printer starts the purge line, the nozzle is too low and the first layer gets heavily compressed.

I haven't made any hardware modifications, and I'd prefer to identify the actual cause rather than randomly changing settings.

My questions

1. What could cause the nozzle to be at the correct height during the paper test but too low when printing starts?

2. Could the inductive probe be mounted at the wrong height or triggering inconsistently, even if auto-leveling completes successfully?

3. Could the bed mesh fail to apply during printing, even with an official Anycubic test file?

4. Is there a way to check whether the printer is changing the effective Z position or Z-offset after homing?

5. Are there any known firmware issues or calibration problems on the Kobra 2 Neo that cause this exact symptom?

Has anyone experienced the same issue on a stock Kobra 2 Neo and managed to fix it?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions for specific diagnostic tests. I'd rather find the root cause than keep changing the Z-offset without understanding what's happening.

Thanks in advance!

I need some help/advice with printing white pla. I have been trying for 2 days and results aren’t what they typically are when printing black pla. I did a nozzle swap and a temp tower and learned that 205° is the best for this filament. The right mask i printed last night and the left one just came off the printer. Only change was the left I painted the seams on. Black print for comparison

Hello together,

today i encounter a problem, which i cannot get fixed.
My printhead keeps crashing out of nowhere.
Print does finish, next print and crash

I have made a video of the crash.
My Rods are clean and lubricated, the sensor does work, cause if i put something at the tip, it stops.
The offset is at 0,07 mm
Anyone does have a clue?

I printed on tuesday and it worked fine

Tonight i wanted to print something and saw spaghetti errors in the morning. The print itself also had x axis layer shifts

I restarted the print after cleaning the bed and instantly got an error because of x axis homing (10118)

I had to move the printhead with some force to make it move while the printer was turned off.

Moving the printhead i felt it doesn't move smoothly all the way on the x axis rail.

I regularly added some grease with the brush on and in the rail and also tried to clean it as best as i could with a special tool printed and a cloth.

I did a full calibration, which went fine.

After restarting the broken print i got the x axis homing error again. Again the printhead was hard to move.

What can it be and what do i have to do to get rid of it?

Thanks

I got a Kobra 3 v1... been using one them 2 sided smooth build plates on it, the ones that transfers a design (carbon fibre) to the print. No issues on K3, adhesion is great, better than stock plate actually.

Recently I picked up a Kobra X. The K3 smooth plate is couple MM smaller than the kobra X plate. Prints will not stick to the smooth plate. I set the smooth plate in slicer, did the leveling, played around temp and stuff.

Nothing helps... it should work. Any ideas anyone? Thanks

James

I dont know what to say other than it sucks. I've had 3 failed prints in a row for the slicer in the app. I have a Mono M7 Pro and im getting the "melted puddle" at one end of the print and bad supports. The slicer won't let me elevate the pattern away from the plate. This is how I've dealt with this issue in the slicing program on my PC. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I bought an unrepaired model so I have no warranty support. I think it's a standard JST cable, but hoping someone can confirm.

I don't have the cable - see photo