Help needed

[u/_Spranta]

Hi everyone,
I've tried making a corset to cinch my waist (see picture). I am at about 10cm waist reduction, but I was hoping for a little more dramatic effect. The closure in the back sits pretty flush, so I am wondering if I should/can take it in a little more at the waist?
Is it reasonable to get a little more out of it? I find the shape a little underwhelming tbh

Any advice? Or is this as good as it gets as a chubby person?

[u/tatobuckets]

Possible, this pattern is the problem - it’s very blocky. Sounds like you’re wanting a more dramatic hourglass shape.

Also size down, you should have a 2” lacing gap.

[u/_Spranta → u/tatobuckets]

I didnt know about the 2inch lacing gap. Thats a good benchmark to keep in mind. Thank you!

[u/Alarmed-potatoe]

It's definitely reasonable and possible. Work with your body, because you won't be able to reduce the same everywhere, and if you reduce at the waist it displaces flesh, so that needs space to go somewhere (so don't take in the top and bottom just yet). You can take off 10cm/2" from the lacing side of the back panel if you don't take off anything from seams around the corset.

Have a look at other corset patterns out there to see various ways that waists get taken in, and gently take in a small amount where your waist can handle it - you can temporarily stitch your waist seams in a bit and see if you can handle that, and go from there.

[u/_Spranta → u/Alarmed-potatoe]

Will keep that displacement in mind when I adjust my pattern pieces for a smaller waist! Thank you!

[u/arsi_sk1]

Hi! First of all, I think we need a little more information. Did you draft the pattern yourself, or are you using someone else's pattern?

If the back is already completely closed, then you'll definitely need to adjust the pattern for more waist reduction. I'd suggest reducing the waist circumference while keeping the top and bottom circumferences the same.

Another important thing is that the top and bottom binding can work wonders! It helps lock the corset into its final 3D shape. Every time I try on one of my corsets before adding the binding, I feel like there's too much flaring at the top and bottom, so keep that in mind.

I don't know if this was intentional, but personally, I'd go for more of a curve along the sides. Right now, it looks like the lower part flares out in almost a straight line, which takes away some of that dramatic hourglass effect.

[u/_Spranta → u/arsi_sk1]

Hi! Thanks for the input!
I bought a pattern off Etsy and modified it (mostly extended it at the the top and bottom by ~4cm each, to accommodate for my longer torso. I extended the pieces without adding any curve (just adding 4cm straight line to each side of the pattern pieces). That is probably why the flare is pretty straight out.

Also, the pattern size I chose aimed for 85cm waist circumference, but the corset ended up with 92cm, even AFTER i manually reduced about 8cm (4x2cm segment cut from the center of the biggest panels). So not sure what that is about. Maybe an AI pattern (you never know these days).

I will certainly try to reduce the waist circumference along all pieces! Also more of a curve at the flare!
Thanks! 🙏🏻

[u/arsi_sk1 → u/_Spranta]

I'm not sure how precise you were when sewing the panels together, but even a deviation of just +1 mm per seam can add up to quite a significant difference in the final circumference. So it's really important to sew the panels together as accurately as possible.

For example, 5 × 1 × 2 = 10 mm, plus the busk and lacing gap.

I don't know how comfortable you are with computers, but I use Inkscape, and I've written a small helper tool for visualizing and measuring corset patterns.

Here's a guide on how to use it: wiki

And here's my method for drawing seam allowances and matching the panels together: How to Tool

And here are my patterns: Libra 28''

They probably won't fit you, but you can see how my designs evolved, starting from a digitized version of the Timeless Trends Libra all the way to my final version. 😉

[u/_Spranta → u/arsi_sk1]

This is so appreciated, thank you!

[u/Staress]

Once you get the corset to fit you properly & comfortably, if it’s still not the look you want than another option to look into is padding out the bust & hips to create the proportions you’re looking for and a more dramatic silhouette. It’s a historical method that was used a lot in Victorian corsets to give the illusion of those dramatic silhouettes of the time

[u/Saritush2319]

Take more out of the sides and add more to the front and back.
It’s just not distributed in the way you want