r/iceclimbing • u/No-Guarantee-6316 • 15d ago
Question Down Belay Parka
i need help finding a good belay parka, i’ve been ice climbing in the alps for a couple of years and i think it’s time to try one since i never used something like that. I was looking at mammut Taiss Pro IN though i would like something more durable (the outside fabric is 10D) like the Patagonia Durable Down Parka even though it’s not meant for ice climbing.
Moreover i don’t like the lack of DWR finish on the down itself. I’m glad to hear any suggestions though i’d rather avoid synthetic insulation since i don’t do cragging and i like down packability
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u/Complete-Koala-7517 15d ago
It’s sythentic, but the Rab Alpine Generator is a fantastic belay parka and it still packs down fairly small. I was in the same boat as you looking for a down jacket, ended up with that and never looked back
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u/LeaningSaguaro 15d ago
Meh I like down. It’s way warmer. 100%.
If it’s drippy, like 99% of USA ice is, a hard shell goes over my belay parka.
Whatever you do, make sure the zipper has a bottom zipper as well, to allow to wear the parka while belaying from your harness.
Ps- carry some tape or some patches while ice climbing because sharp things tear parkas easily, though you mention wanting a durable material parka. Still good to have.
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u/dockdockgoos 15d ago
Don’t you negate the weight and packability benefit of down by having to have a second hard shell big enough to fit over it? I’d hate to climb in anything big enough to cover my bd belay parka, not to mention the hassle of taking off my sweaty hard shell and putting it back on over top of my belay in between climbs.
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u/legitIntellectual 15d ago
I really like the Mountain Equipment Vega & Kryos jackets. They've both got a 30D fabric with a drilite membrane that is reasonably weather resistant.
10D on a heavy down jacket makes no sense to me, much more prone to 'wilting', and down is far more durable than synthetic insulation so you may as well have durable fabric as well
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u/No-Guarantee-6316 15d ago
yeah mountain equipment makes really good stuff, been rocking their switch pro everywhere. i’ll look into these jackets as i would also need something for “general mountaineering”
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u/Monopun 15d ago
I’m using a ME Citadel for ice climbing. Synthetic, but very durable outer fabrics. Two sets of pockets on the front, perfect for storing gloves/snacks. Inner pockets as well for Nalgene and/or gloves. My favorite part are the cuffs. It’s hard to describe but it sort of just stops without having a rigid cuff. Super easy to get hands with gloves through the sleeves, both ways. Love this design choice for ice climbing. It’s not expedition levels of warmth, but for me (188cm, 75kg) it’s fairly roomy can easily fit above my shelljacket. On expeditions or very cold days I just pair it with a medium weight down jacket. Works wonders, can highly recommend!
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u/lordpanzer666 15d ago
+1 for this
I have the Fitzroy, which is basically the same jacket but a bit lighter and less warm. It's the perfect belay parka.
I also have a BD down parka, which is lighter and warmer, but for multi pitches it's the ME Fitzroy all the way!
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u/jamesoward 15d ago
Mountain Hardware Phantom Belay Down Parka is amazing.
800 fill down, fully box baffled, 20D Ripstop, it has some synthetic insulation in spots where you would get compression from a pack.
I recently picked up a RAB positron Pro but haven’t gotten it outside yet, loft seems great. It’s missing a few features from the MH parka but it’s a little less expensive, it also has stitch through baffles in the arms for extra mobility (slightly less warm?)
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u/Quake2108 15d ago edited 15d ago
im also in the market for a proper lightweight belay jacket. my top picks are:
mild conditions: 1. ME Oreus (390g), 2. Patagonia DAS light (350), 3. Arcteryx Nuclei FL (325g)
Harsh conditions:
Synthetic: 1. ME Super Oreus (790g)(on par with the Kryos in terms of warmth), , 2. Patagonia DAS parka (555g), 3. Arcteryx Nuclei SV (600g)
Down: ME Xeros (560g)/Kryos (660g), Arcteryx Alpha lighweight parka, Simond Makalu,
People also made a spreadsheet of the best jackets in terms of warmth/weight/price: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ultralight/s/6KYBRwGLwf
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1POD9G2hYC7wOqJfr6XFEqbn8haCr8jOxAAwudggkP2I/edit?pli=1&gid=0#gid=0 (thanks to u/Union__Jack)
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u/iljuan 15d ago
I bought the Mountain Equipment Trango, now Paiyu for last years season and im very happy with it. Robust, light enough, packable enough, and cheap enough so you don't baby it all the time. DWR works well enough and its plenty warm for ice and north faces or bivvys that Ive had in the alps
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u/ghos5880 15d ago
Mont adventure equipment icicle jacket. Built with shell fabric and is waterproof 20k head rating. Designed for shitty australian snow where it often is just raining. I think the face fabric is like 40d its crazy tough but probably overkill
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u/Alpineice23 15d ago
ME Kryos / Patagonia Grade VII if you want down.
ME Citadel or possibly the new ME Super Oreus for synthetics, though the Super Oreus is brand new and untested by the masses.
For serious cold: Mammut Eiger Nordwand Advanced Down Jacket.
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u/Haoshoku_no_Haki_31 13d ago
Hey, I climb in the French Alps.
It took me a while to find the perfect layering combo. Thermoregulation is definitely a very personal thing. For example, I have friends who wear one less layer than me but end up with frostnip on their toes, which I never get.
While moving I always wear a technical baselayer, a thin fleece, a Rab Xenair Alpine Light, and a Gore-Tex Pro shell. If it's really cold, I swap out the Xenair for a Simond Alpinism puffy (synthetic).
At the belay Most of the time I just keep the Xenair on. If I get cold, I throw the big puffy on over my Gore-Tex while I belay.
Before, I used to climb either with a puffy or without, and I was always either way too hot or freezing. Since getting the Xenair, I don't have to mess around with taking my puffy on and off nearly as much.
So, I'd highly recommend getting an active insulation layer like the Xenair, and keeping a big puffy as a backup for the belays.
One quick heads-up: make sure you get a puffy with a two-way zipper. I'm actually selling my Norrøna 750 right now; it's super comfortable and packable, but it only has a single zip, which is a huge pain with a harness when belaying.
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u/Nedersotan 11d ago
If you are doing single pitch, then weight and packed size don’t matter as much, so a beefier fabric and synthetic fill are great options. If you want to take it up the climb with you, you will have to make compromises somewhere between weight, packed size, durability and water resistance.
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u/dougisnotabitch 15d ago
If you’ve climbed a few seasons and never belayed under drips then you are way more fortunate than me. I’m not familiar with the alps but in the US, Colorado more specifically, we are probably 50/50 roadside vs backcountry so a synthetic is good insurance.
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u/No-Guarantee-6316 15d ago
when it happens here it’s usually too hot to wear anything over the shell so i wouldn’t even bother to bring it with me
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u/CO_Climber 15d ago
Ice climbing is wet. I know you said you don't like synthetics but the Patagonia DAS parka is my go to for insulation. That's me though.
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u/No-Guarantee-6316 15d ago
yes though rappelling down couloirs around mont blanc needs something more packable and warmer, i tried the DAS but it felt too light
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u/CO_Climber 15d ago
Yeah, it's not super packable and nothing compares to down in that regard. I used it in Alaska though so I think it's lightness might be a function of quality rather than lack of warmth.
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u/serenading_ur_father 14d ago
Climbed in a DAS for years. Still have it. Noticably not as warm as the Rab Uber Down I use now.
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u/serenading_ur_father 15d ago
If it's cold enough to warrant a belay parka you shouldn't be too worried about it wetting out.
Likewise if it does get wet you're just cragging.
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u/Landrvrnut22 15d ago
I’m rocking the Black Diamond Belay Parka. Very warm, a DWR finish and durable fabric. Only downside is it doesn’t pack down very small. Here is the Midwest US, it tends to be very wet, so that more my concern.
The RAB Positron Down would be my second choice.