Made some more progress on the plant and got it on display at the Colorado RPM in Greeley. The plant switcher is a Piko Whitcomb 65 Tonner. The engine and tank decals I did with waterslide decal paper in my laser printer. I used the Nuka Cola labels from u/Efficient-Abroad-519 and the square Nuka-Cola label from the Wikipedia article.

Still have to finish installing and painting the piping, going to paint and decal the repurposed shipping container steam boiler for Vault-Tec, then need to do some weathering and other details and get it on a decent scenery base with some track.

Sorry for the repost. I want a big capacitor so I can actually use this thing for switching and low speed. Motor design makes it irreplaceable for now unfortunately. Thinking esu lokpilot 5 micro with an esu powerpack mini. Open to suggestions. This thing is maybe 2 inches long. Tiny.

Edit: has an aftermarket Faulhaber 1016N 012G motor already. And I’m leaning towards a KA7 Keep alive as it fits in the bunker 20.5x20.5x7.3mm

Please don’t buy the newest range of HP Branded model trains through Hornby.

Take some time to read about the mother of live steam.

Please take note,
I have two motivations for posting this.

The first is that Sam’s trains just released a review of the new HP train set. The second is, with recent changes In UK law, the latter end of her story comes to mind.

So as a railway modeller, if not a regular part of this community I thought I’d share her story somewhere where it might land among similar minds.

I’m not saying don’t buy your kids model trains. Buy second hand HP branded for all I care. Just please consider what you’re doing and don’t buy HP branded stuff new, this Christmas.

The Coosa has always been rumored to have catfish as big as a man. God knows what this critter is.

Köff III by Roco, will be on shunting duty next Saturday on the open day of our model train club.

Mine is a mix of OO gauge and 009 gauge, with the OO gauge starting at a Southampton docks inspired dockyard, with model ships of the matching scale, and the mainline would end in a large city, with the 009 being used for a narrow gauge railway for a coal mine or a small passenger railway, with small tram lines sprinkled throughout, like imagine the miniature Wonderland in Germany, but it’s entirely British, and centered around one continuous location, and that’s it.

I use Bachmann ho track and at some points my models go faster or slower without me changing the speed or even touching the controller. I’ve tried using paper towels to rub against the rails to clean them and it does look like stuff comes off when I do that but no matter how many times i do it nothing changes.

Got this old blue box for about $20 with the Caboose. All it needs are the side pieces so this will make for a fun little fixer upper. Always enjoyed the Athearn blue box models

As you can see I have tried shortening my wiring to see if I had voltage drop but that hasn’t made a difference.

I cleaned the rails
I tried DC and DCC locomotives, some go faster than others but still not nearly as fast as they used to go on their old DCC controller.
I reset the controller

I acquired this from a local train museum and didn’t get to use it for a few months, I did have to get a new power supply but it is supposed to be a perfectly compatible one.

I’m new to DCC so I might be cluelessly overlooking something!

What do you think?

Thank you for the thoughts on the first two posts. Here is take three with improvements(?).

In review, this is n scale, peco 55 yard. For this round I included where the yard connects to the inner mainline. The two mainlines connect about 20 inches further down each track. The entire layout is a 14'x6 horseshoe. This section is 11'x2' with a dog bone end 2.5'x2.5'.

The lower a/d track (third up from the bottom) is 46" long.

I'm not sold on the turntable, but if kept the shed and maintenance would be on the right.

I'm getting readybto DCC this old life like, and would like to add headlights and tail lights at the same time. Its a great runner but its also the style that had one incandecent light in the cab. Im going to switch to leds but I would like to put a lens in each hole for the lights. Does anyone have a source for tiny n scale sized light pipe plastic? I have some that works for HO but its far too big fpr N.

This is Lionel Lines #2624 "MeCLEARY," the undisputed 1st place Gem in my O-Gauge collection. Yes, I still have 5200 but she rocks No. 1 in the O-Scale category.

Now, to address the elephant in the room, No I did not build this. I WISH I could say I did, but I couldn't. My kit building skills are terrible, or at least the commitment is to building them. I won this item in an eBay auction some years ago. One thing I vividly remember is that the seller also had the Lionel 2148WS Passenger set for sale alongside this passenger car. It sold for several thousand dollars (to be expected) and I made away with this for...well obviously not that much lol. If you ask me, I got the better deal!

From my research, this is a Walthers Executive observation kit, tastefully done up as a Lionel Lines Irvington car (I believe Walthers made versions that were specifically designed to have rooflines that matched the Irvingtons as well as more scale variants with taller roofs). As seen in the second photo above, the length is a perfect match to my Conventional Classics 2008 reissue of the Sager Place OBS. Hell, the window line almost matches to a tee too!

There are two lights on the inside however it does not appear to function, and I myself have no idea how to fix the lights. I am unsure if I want to have the lights restored restore the function or not due to the overall desire to not destroy the "authenticity/originality" of the build. I don't plan to run this item that often for the sake of keeping it as intact as possible. She's a display piece until further notice, but I'd be lying if I said I'm not waiting for the perfect time to be able to put her on the track alongside my Irvingtons and 783 Hudson!

So .. I have an issue with these two points. They're Peco streamline N-Gauge. Both worked without issue when I installed them, but now I'm constantly having to press down on the switch bar to get locos running over the points. I've used a track rubber a few times and tried multiple locomotives, with no change.

I don't know what I'm doing for most of this. Still learning as i go along.

Have I somehow broken the points? If I have, is it a repair or replace situation?

Thanks in advance.

Got this life like g5 a year ago and have never been able to get it to run. Its original motor was junk and any time I put it on the track it sparks like crazy and short everything out. Haven’t been able to find parts as this model is so rare and obscure that I haven’t seen one for sale since last Christmas. Been seeing these Liliput 4-6-0’s but they usually go for $100 or more and I don’t wanna spend that much just to use it for parts. Any help is appreciated.

For me, I love the creativity, running the engines, running my own excursion trains, no FRA, ICC, no rules, none of that. I could run my trains without a care in the world. Talking to people about model trains is quite a refreshing feeling- talking about this and that, about pieces that they built, primed, or painted; it's soothing.

What about you?

So I know nothing about how to create a model railway, but my dad has wanted to start one for a long time. He has bought a few odd pieces for it (a few trains, some tracks, some templates for buildings) but I can't be sure what exactly he has. The pieces he has are all to the same scale, and I'm not sure exactly what scale that is but I'll check whenever I'm next home.

However, these things seem like they can't really be brought together to make the actual model.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I could buy as a present that could help him actually begin his train model? Suggestions of what to use as a base, the first things you want to lay down, help with creating a plan, books, etc. He doesn't have much free time at all and limited space so nothing huge and nothing incredibly work intensive.

I do have building modelling skills, general craft skills, and access to a 3d printer. I would like to use those but I think those would be more useful once the model has actually started being put together.

(Side Note: The edit was made by me!)

If you want to participate in this (Sort of) challenge, then you must follow these rules...

Rule (1): You MUST buy a LB&SCR E4 Class Model

Rule (2): Find a random 0-6-0 Engine Model Chassis

Rule (3): Remove the original 0-6-2 Chassis from the E4 Model and replace it with the 0-6-0 Chassis

Rule (4): Repaint the model into a N.W.R. Blue livery

Rule (5): Once you're done... send a Picture of the final Model in the comments below this post

Whoever makes the best model is declared the Winner!

My father passed recently and i have been going through some old boxes and found a bunch of old IHC interiors. The instructions are all missing on how to assemble them if anyone is able to help would be great.

20174 Observation

20176 8-1-2 Sleeper

20173 Diner

20177 12-1 Sleeper

So, I have this old table, 4 feet by 8 feet iirc, with green fabric that lays over the top of it. I come here with a simple inquiry:
Anyone got good temporary layout setups? I got a bunch of old Bachmann track, haven’t counted it out yet, I also have some Lionel O Scale track, and a full double loop of Kato N scale track that I can utilize. Really I haven’t counted how much track I have, but at the same time, I’m struggling to think of a good setup until I get the main setup I have in mind planned out. Running trains in the meantime yknow. But yeah feel free to spitball ideas, diagrams, all of it! I’m so ready to choo my choo again.