Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! September 11, 2026
This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.
Info for Newbies and FAQ!
First and foremost, check out our extensive FAQ. Chances are, you'll find your answer there, or at least a starting point in order to ask more informed questions.
Many people come here for recommendations on what equipment to buy. Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started:
If after reviewing this information you have any specific questions, please feel free to post a comment below. (Remember, when asking for purchase advice please be specific about how much you can spend. See here for guidelines.)
Schedule of community threads:
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
52 Weeks Share
Anything Goes
Album Share & Feedback
Edit My Raw
Follow Friday
Salty Saturday
Self-Promotion Sunday
Finally a friendly reminder to share your work with our community in r/photographs!
I have a GH5 (Lumix) for photography and I started to used my old camera lens (some are Minolta) from my first reflex A200. I have a ring to adapt but it's a manual ring and I can't find an automatic ring.
Is there an automatic ring who does micro 4/3 DSLR camera body, to Type A camera lens ? If yes, where can I find one ?
I don't usually print my digital photos, only done it a handful of times. I would now like to print a photo in a relatively large size (roughly 50*35 cm or so). How can I print without having a calibrated monitor? And what about matching the printing paper, and the printer's profile, and all that stuff? I feel quite lost. If someone could give me some pointer's that would be really appreciated.
Canon ef 100-400 ii VS Sigma ef 100-400. I currently shoot on a canon 80D and use a 75-300 as my telephoto lens. However, I want to upgrade to a better ef telephoto and hopefully start printing. I have my eye on the sigma because it is way cheaper than the canon and I’ve heard it has similar IQ? But what are others thoughts.
Hi guys, I'm trying to decide between two telephoto lenses to pair with my 35mm f/1.8 on a Nikon D5200:
Tamron 70-210mm f/4 Di VC USD
Tamron SP 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD
The 70-300mm gives me almost 100mm of extra reach, but from what I've gathered, it loses some sharpness and contrast past 200mm. On the other hand, the 70-210mm stays sharp across the entire focal range.
The key factor for me is aperture: the 70-210mm maintains a constant f/4 throughout the zoom. The 70-300mm drops to around f/5.3 at 200mm and f/5.6 at 300mm (a full stop less light).
Since I'm shooting on APS-C, I'm not sure if that extra reach is actually necessary or if having a constant f/4 aperture with better optics on the 70-210mm is the smarter play.
What do you guys think? Which one would you go for?
Hey all! I tried asking on /r/AskPhotography but I got met with instantaneous downvotes as soon as I posted (no idea why), and my question got buried. So I was hoping I can get some help here in selecting a new camera and lens(es).
I run a small business that works with master artisans and craft products, and I'm looking to pick up a camera again to take care of some of our business needs in addition to getting back into it as a hobby again. As much as I'd like to hire a professional photographer all the time, some of our photos are taken in rural places where it's very difficult to hire a local and extremely expensive to bring someone along, so I'd like to have the option of doing some photography work myself in a pinch.
(1) Budget, country, and currency:
Budget is around $3k, perhaps up to $5k if it can be justified. But I'd love to hear options at different price points if there are good paths to go down that'll save me some cash. Open to both new and used options. I'm in the US (USD), but also often in Japan (JPY) and can purchase there as well.
(2) What equipment, if any, you have now and why is it no longer meeting your needs?
Nothing! Starting from scratch.
(3) What kinds of subjects do you intend to shoot?
Macro/detail work: close-ups of ceramics, lacquerware, textiles, paper, etc. showing texture, glaze, brushwork. This is for product listings, so accurate color and lots of detail matter
Artisan portraits: craftspeople at work, often in dim, cramped workshops. Mixed and low light is the norm (single window, incandescent/fluorescent bulbs, etc.).
Environmental/workshop shots: wider scenes of the studios themselves, tools on benches, kilns, that kind of thing. Space is often tight, so I suspect I need something wide.
Support for high frame rate video (1080p or 4k @ 120fps ideally) to enable slow-motion clips of the artisan at work would be huge.
(4) Is it primarily for photography, videography, or both?
Primarily photography but I also hope to use it for some videography work, as described above.
Honestly what you're describing doesn't need much camera, but you will need to spend on lighting and light stands, light modifiers, tripod etc.
If colour fidelity is important you'll need a decent monitor and you'll need to calibrate it regularly.
How experienced are you with photography? You're about to become a product photographer which is mostly about technique, the best camera won't help you if you don't have the proper lighting.
The first money you should spend is on the book Light: Science and Magic it's basically a product photo college textbook.
What's the smallest object or detail you'd like to fill the frame with? We can pick lens(es) from there.
Hobbyist photographer here. Not really a pro. But I am looking for a storage or carrier that can fit my 2 cameras, a few lenses (6 or 7), a few camera/lens accessories, a drone, drone controller, and batteries.
I have a camera backpack that I use when I am just bringing one camera and a few lenses. But there are moments when I just want to bring all of my equipment.
Maybe like a trunk with wheels? Padded inside? Bonus feature would be to be able to attach a tripod to it so i dont have to carry it separately.
[Photo-editing app related Q.] Been wanting to get back into photo editing. I used to use SuperImpose on Apple but from what I've heard the (paid for) Android version is nowhere near as good/reliable and was hoping to find some suggestions that'd be comparable. Anyone have something for Android they recommend?
Hi everyone,
So microsoft photo viewer's newest update has taken away the "favorite" function. I'm a nature photographer, and I sometimes have over 50 shots of the same subject. I used the favorite/heart to mark the better photos, and then sorted through those.
This has really messed up my workflow and I am beyond frustrated.
I am doing research for an alternative photo viewer.
I have found the chart here about viewers with a lot of info, but it doesn't say anything about the favorite function of each app. I tried out Honey view, but the supposed favorite function(It bookmarks, making a text only list and will not indicate on the photo itself)did not work for me at all.
I just want to be able to mark a photo so I can see it is marked on the image when I am looking through them, as well as be able to zoom in and move the photo around, and also have a side-by-side function, and show the camera info, and support the common jpeg, RAW, etc.
I do not need one that edits--so I don't care what it can and can't do regarding that.
I am SO beyond annoyed and frustrated with microsoft for removing that function--there is no logical reason why they did so.
Any recommendations?
Thanks!
Does anyone know of any FREE websites where I can convert my CR2 photos to JPG? Ones that don't have a daily limit as well. I have smth over 200 photos that I need to convert without losing their quality.
You can't "convert" raw files (which is what CR2 is) to JPEG. They are, as the name suggests, the (mostly) raw data from the sensor and need to be processed. There's no single way to do this, and depending on the program used, the final JPEG will look differently. Here's a pretty good explanation: https://rawpedia.rawtherapee.com/Editor#Eek.21_My_Raw_Photo_Looks_Different_than_the_Camera_JPEG
If you want the exact same look as the embedded thumbnail/the camera JPEG, your only option is Canon's Digital Photo Professional (DPP). Otherwise here are several free raw editors you can try:
darktable: Probably the overall most powerful editing features of any raw editor. All-in-one solution, with a library similar to Lightroom. The editing workflow is completely different, however, being more like color grading in Final Cut Pro or DaVinci Resolve.
RawTherapee: The mad scientist's raw editor, with some very powerful and intricate tools. A bit more Lightroom-like in its workflow.
ART (Another RawTherapee): Started as a simplified fork of RawTherapee, but has added its own powerful and unique features since. With CTL scripts you can even create your own tools.
vkdt: New-ish raw editor from the original darktable developer. Fully node-based and can also handle video. Probably not for the faint of heart and may not have all the tools you want, but what is there works well and is extremely fast.
Filmulator: A great little editor with a unique concept, that's easy to use. As the name suggests, it emulates (part of) the process of developing analog film.
LightZone: Back from the almost-dead, version 5.0 was released recently. Not the most advanced, perhaps, but has some interesting features and a flexible processing pipeline.
RapidRAW: Aims to be a relatively simple and streamlined option for those that don't need the extensive control some other editors provide. Very promising, but somewhat new and under heavy development, so the results you get today may not be what you get tomorrow.
Safelight: An editor built around a concept of extensibility and customisation. Still very new, so expect some rough edges, missing features and changing algorithms.
Since not all of them have library management, you may want to also use digiKam as DAM (digital asset manager).
Is there a specific reason why it needs to be a website? There are a bunch of free programs that will convert raw to jpeg for free. Darktable and Adobe Bridge would be a good place to start.
Please help me what set should be good for use on very specific type of job + what brand have good acessories for heavy duty use.
Guys at work told me again "Buy this camera man we all want photos and videos" including our boss.
Problem is we work as industrial alpinist(idk its good word, eng is my 2nd language), we are using ropes, climbing to do sometimes heavy duty shit like cutting with angle grinder while being at height 180m over ground level in winter.
So i need something that will meet my requirements:
1. I propably don't want to climb with additional backpack with camera+acessories+3 diff lense+batteries etc.
If possible i want universal lens+tripod+2nd battery+bag that have something to be clipped on snap hook.
2. Range of doing photos - sometimes i can be very near sometimes i want to make photo from ground when someone is at top - Best option for body+1 lense or i should get body+ more lenses.
3. Work most of time outside but we work 6 am - 5 pm, so its risk to doing photos while its little dark.
4. Tripod - something that have option to stand or be clipped, clamped to construction.
5. Budget - It's heavy duty, im buying it with my own money to try and it can get crashed very fast, if its possible 100$ is perfect for body+lense, if its worth i can spend more but really, i just want to try and check.
6. Brand doesnt matter,
7. Acessories, i dont want to buy usless trash, i want to be sure tripod will not fall on side with cuz its little wind. and ofc it need to be little shockproof (bag with set can be on rope hitting wall, protection when its raining and there is not other option than plastic waste bag.
What I meant was, are you trying to clamp the camera to a 9 inch I-beam and need really wide jaws, or a 2 inch diameter pipe, the superclamp won't do the I-beam but will clamp to a small-ish pipe.
Man, BAG, STAND, TRIPOD need to be ruggedzied or stronger than typical chinese bag, i wrote this 100$ is budget just for body+lense if it will be a total crap i can spend more, for acessories i have other budget.
I’m into aviation photography and I really like the nice apsc sensor in the r7 but it’s sorta ass at low light and I also want something to branch out when I try other photography styles, I like the full frame sensor of the r8 but it’s battery life and mechanical shutter is a problem, I primarily shoot at daytime with a 5d mark 3 and sometimes at night. I’m currently using a ef 100-400mm mark 1. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
I’m wanting to get studio dog photography, with the plan to buy 2 strobe lights. Looking for something with a quick recycle time and some decent power. If possible not breaking the bank. Has anyone got any particular recommendations, I’m also looking at second hand options.
Hi all, I am an aspiring photographer, only ever having done GCSE Photography. I currently have my school recommended camera (Canon EOS 550D) and I want to get a mirrorless Sony camera with a lens secondhand for around £500, I want to do shots of people and weddings and my camera is currently HORRIBLE with literally every aspect of that: it has horrible focus and LOTS of noise. Please do give me any recommendations and tips. Much Appreciated!
Hey all, I currently have an 80D with two budget Ef lenses (efs18-135mm and ef75-300mm) and I'm wanting to upgrade to get some better quality images and start printing. I'm wondering if I should invest in a cheaper rf body like the r10 and then buy some of the lower end rf lenses, or I should invest in used L series ef lenses for around the same price. I mainly do landscape/wildlife photography but also wanting to get more into commissioned portraits. Any opinions?
A better lens will definitely give you a better bump in image quality than a new body for your case, especially for wildlife.
I would start there and when you feel the limits of your body (e.g. AF performance), then you can get something like the Canon R10/R50 and use an EF-RF adapter to use all your previous lenses.
Hi everyone. Apparently it's been a super, super long time since I've taken photos with a 'real' (digital) camera. I no longer have any cameras, and now only take photos using my phone. I was recently cleaning house...getting rid of stuff...and I came across a SanDisk Ultra II 512mb Memory Card... as well as a Digital Concepts brand 6-slots hi-speed memory card reader/writer.
I just want to get rid of these items...I no longer use/need them. From what I'm finding, online, it seems the memory card (from which I've since deleted all saved images) can actually be re-sold for $50/60. Does that sound about right?
Lately, I’ve hit a bit of a wall with photography. I have the gear and I love the idea of going out, riding my bike, and taking pictures, but right now I’m really struggling with motivation.
Where I live, the daily scenery/trains can feel pretty repetitive, and doing standard shoots or waiting around feels a bit stale. I tried setting small targets (like shooting historical spots for Google Maps), which helped a bit, but I still lack that spark to just jump on my bike and explore.
For those who’ve been in a photo slump:
What kind of personal mini-challenges or assignments actually made you want to leave the house?
How do you find fresh angles or excitement in familiar/small-town locations?
Any fun photo games or creative constraints you’d recommend trying solo?
imo m43 cameras truly shine with primes, like the venerable 20/1,7 or any of the famed olympus 1,8 ones. they make for extremely compact kits with astonishingly good quality. the kit zooms are too slow on the crop format to make the best of available light to produce pleasing results to me.
if you're looking into a body upgrade i'd wait, apparently a new a6x00 body is around the corner.
What are you wanting from the upgrade? I only recommend upgrades if you have a specific need/limitation in your current kit and see a piece of gear that can fit that need within your budget.
Getting "better gear" without defining what you want won't necessarily get you anywhere.
Good question, the reason why im considering the Pen is the portability over the a6400. The idea is Id be able to carry it more often to more places when I have a smaller body and lens.
The most significant reason for a6700 is the Ibis. I shoot a lot of longer exposure photos and not always can I pull out a tri pod to take a 2 sec exposure, and the a6400 struggles over 0.5 sec exposure with an OSS lens. Also having a bigger buffer for burst mode when I'm capturing fast moving subjecrs. The extra battery life, better af, and bigger buffer being bonuses.
Good question, the reason why im considering the Pen is the portability over the a6400. The idea is Id be able to carry it more often to more places when I have a smaller body and lens.
If you are considering portability, M43 cameras are definitely more compact, especially with a pancake lens. I personally would keep the Sony a6400 and the lenses as it will still be the overall better choice.
Another option is something like the Ricoh GR series that is known to be ultra-compact while delivering great quality images.
The most significant reason for a6700 is the Ibis. I shoot a lot of longer exposure photos and not always can I pull out a tri pod to take a 2 sec exposure, and the a6400 struggles over 0.5 sec exposure with an OSS lens.
For the a6700, the a6700's IBIS is useful for long exposures but it definitely does take some practice to get it down and you have to position your body and camera in a certain way to reduce movements. I would set realistic expectations on that part as the IBIS can be useful but it won't necessarily make it magically easier to do. There is nothing that will really beat a tripod for this specific need.
The other benefits of the a6400 are definitely there but it'd be up to you whether the costs are worth those upgrades. The AF on the a6400 is still plenty good for action/motorsports.
So I just got a gopro Mission 1 ILS. I ordered the Laowa 10mm t2.1 lens for it and also a Meike 35mm lens. I want to use this as a way to film some upland hunts when I go to the Dakotas. The 10mm won't be here until the day after my first trip to North Dakota which is super annoying. It's just me going so it's going to be interesting trying to get everything to work. I have a fast deploying lightweight tripod that I plan to carry so I can setup shots when the dog goes on point (hoping they stay steady the whole time), then walk in to flush and hopefully get it on film. This is all going to be a pain in the ass I know. Also have a gopro that'll be on my head. Just so tired of seeing the same footage essentially from someones head so trying something different. I'm trying not to get that typical gopro footage and get something more cinematic.
Now my question, should I get a Laowa 7.5mm f/2 to film or maybe get a 16/17mm cine lens. Or is there something else? I have the 10mm coming, which with my very limited knowledge, might be my go to for most of these hunts. I'm thinking I'll always have whatever lens set to infinity and have my aperture pretty much figured out before I actually get out there to try an make things fast. With the 2.7-3x crop factor I thought about getting a 24mm Sirui but I think that still might be to tight. Also figured I shoot in 8k 60fps so I can try and crop it in post if needed.
Hey everyone, I’m looking for the absolute best zoom lens for my Sony a6400.
Purpose of use: Mainly travel photography, portrait shots, street photography, and casual handheld videography (No wildlife).
Budget: Any. Needs: Top-tier image quality, really good background blur (bokeh), and a versatile zoom range. The problem: The a6400 doesn't have IBIS, so handheld video is a concern. I’d strongly prefer a Sony native lens, but I know the Sony 16-55mm f/2.8 G lacks OSS.
Should I just compromise and get the Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 for the stabilization, or is there a better Sony setup I should consider for handheld travel? Would love to hear your suggestions!
The Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 and Tamron 17-70mm F2.8 are considered the golden standards when it comes to an all-rounder lens for Sony APS-C bodies. While Sony's native lenses are arguably the best in their full-frame line up, their are 3rd party lenses that beat the Sony equivalent for their APS-C category.
If want the absolutely best versatility in zoom range, the Sigma 16-300mm and Tamron 18-300mm are popular choices.
How much zoom are you looking for? I bought the Sigma 16-300 last year which has OSS and been one of the best investments Ive made. I was recently on a trip to Thailand and the whole time I didn't feel the need to use my primes. Even fully zoomed in, its sharp, stable, I can easily capture 0.5-1sec shutter speed stable photos. It is a 3.5-6.7 variable aperture but zoomed in for portraits, it creates some creamy bokeh and the size is amazing for what the lens can do.
I would highly recommend it.
I'm new to photography and eager to learn about framing. I often travel by train and feel there are unique perspectives worth capturing. Just the other day, I had an entire carriage to myself but couldn't find a subject to focus on. I'd love guidance from experienced photographers on where to begin. YouTube videos haven't covered what I'm looking for, and most websites offer only brief explanations. Any book or article recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys! Ive recently started college doing photography and my tutor has recommended I invest in an external storage method (my sd card temporarily passed away in class today lolz :')). Ive been seeing people say SSD for editing as a HDD wouldn't handle it or something like that. Could I not just edit first and then move to the HDD if I were to buy one? I take a lot of photos in my free time so ideally need something that can store large amounts of personal as well as coursework. Anyone have any recommendations and advice? Leaning towards HDD as Ive seen they are more affordable, but would like some advice before I actually decide.
Hi! Does anyone here have experience using an old Minolta Maxxum AF 70-210mm f/4 on a Sony a6700 with the le-ea5 adapter? The autofocus is supposed to work, from what I've seen online. Just wondering how good the autofocus is and what others have experienced with this combination. Thanks in advance
I am currently on my last year of high school and (hopefully) getting into uni and wanted to have a portable way of editing my photos as my current desktop is the complete opposite of a portable computer, so does anyone have suggestions on the best laptop my situation.
My first option is a macbook neo but the 256 SSD space does not sound like it can handle the job job I want the computer to do.
(fyi my budget is currently between 500/800 Euros).
buy a computer with as much RAM as you can afford and performance comparable to macbook air m1 gen or better. get cheap HDDs for storage, copy the things you're currently working upon onto your internal SSD.
256GB storage is plenty, it'll take a long time before it fills up. But I see that the Neo has 8GB RAM, and that is going to be a problem especially if you use Adobe's products for editing.
I would instead consider a used/refurbished Macbook Air with a minimum 16GB RAM and M1 or M2 (not sure of the current used pricing, basically get the newest M generation that fits your budget).
I have about a year until my African safari and I’d love to really figure out what I’m doing and make sure I have the right equipment for me. I’m not looking to become a professional photographer so I don’t need the craziest lenses or best cameras, just something that can take better photos than my iPhone once I truly figure out how to use it.
I currently have Canon Rebel T6 with four lenses: 18–55mm, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.8, and a 75-300mm III but I understand the telephoto lense isn’t the best.
Would you recommend a different camera? Upgrading the lense? Which direction do you suggest in that case. I know brands are a preference and I’m not dead-set on canon by any means, it’s just the only brand I’ve used.
i have some film from two disposable cameras i want to get the photos from. what’s the best place to send them too? there’s walmart, cvs, and walgreens that are local, but i was also found thedarkroom.con that will give me my negatives back unlike the other stores. is it worth it to send the cameras in the mail to specific store or does it even matter getting the negatives back? thanks in advance!
Hey! Look for a local photo shop in your area. I’ve never lived anywhere that didn’t have at least one. Maybe google photography store near me or even film developing near me. But I’m sure there’s some that still do it near by.
I've tried purchasing DSLRs in the past and always been a bit disappointed with the options suggested. I'm not a beginner photographer - more a hobbyist looking for a rig that could take me Pro later - so the beginner cameras aren't suitable. Can anyone suggest a good body to look at?
I'd prefer to spend no more than £1K for a body and lens but will extend to £800 body-only for good quality, if necessary.
I'm also very open to used or refurbished rigs and open to suggestions for older cameras as long as the quality is there. (I am a bit wary on this, as I have been burned with used rugs in the past despite buying from a reputable, local camera store with 40+ years of service [though, I guess the latter could have been more a case of bad luck, rather than anything else]. So I'm open to it but braced for it to go wrong for me. 😆)
depends upon what sort of results you want really? something like the sony a7III was top-notch in its day not too long ago, and can certainly still produce professional results. but it had its weaknesses.
older pro DSLRs still hold up quality-wise, but you do have to spring for the best of the best and then you're stuck scavenging glass on the used markets. if video isn't on the cards i think Nikon's earlier mirrorless cameras might be worth looking into as well.
Iceland on Lumix S9, weather be a problem, lense options?
Iceland on Lumix S9, bought my first cam (a used LUMIX S9 for 650 pounds) is it okay for iceland weather if I keep it out of drenching it? Please advice?
I can still return the cam for a full refund (should I get something else?), I liked the LUT feature and the price and hence bought it, have a TT artisan 50mm Af f1.8 neo (85 pounds) and a Lumix 20-60 f3.5 - 5.6 (155 pounds), which i am planning to return and get a cheap & fast 35mm lens (probably sg image 35mm f2.2 - 120 pounds). Please advice on any lense options.
the S9 is perhaps the only Lumix S camera that isn't weather-sealed. but honestly, people took pictures in inclement weather back when weather sealing on cameras was all but impossible to find. there are plastic bags you can buy for under fifty that will attach to a UV filter on a lens and cover the whole body.
i would absolutely not return the 20-60. it's got a great range, it's relatively fast, quite wide, good AF, and weather sealed. probably the best proposition in lenses at the moment. you have the 50 for wide-open aperture look stuff. you're missing something in the 70+ range, perhaps look around for a nice 85 or something. i have the TT 75, love that one, but wish it was longer.
Please be specific about your budget, as in how much you are willing to spend at most, a sum of money and currency. Budget friendly means different things to different people.
Got a 2000s Canon EOS camera passed down to me and I was looking to pass the photos from the SanDisk Ultra II CompactFlash card onto my MacBook Air, but I wasn't sure which reader to buy, and Google doesn't seem to come up with clear answers. Any help/advice is appreciated greatly
9 Ways To Adjust the Colors On Your Mac's Screen by macmostvideo. Color profiles are the first thing he covers. On his computer, he has multiple P3 profiles available, and one is "Photography (P3-D65)."
I’ve been into photography for around 1.5 years and I’m now planning to buy my first serious camera. I’m considering a Nikon Z6 III, but since I’m still starting out and budget is a concern, I’m looking at a second-hand body.
My main goal is to get into weddings, portraits and general photography.
For people who actually own/use the Z6 III:
Is it a sensible first serious camera for someone at my experience level, or am I buying more camera than I currently need? How has it been for weddings, events and low-light work? Are there any things you genuinely dislike about it after using it for a while?
Also, if buying a used Z6 III, what should I specifically check before purchasing?
I’m open to alternatives if you think there’s a better choice.
I’m mainly looking for real-world experience rather than spec-sheet comparisons, and I’m completely open to hearing if you think the Z6 III is a bad choice for me.
Really hoping someone has advice that may be helpful! I was looking through my camera pictures on my phone by connecting my sd card reader per usual. Everything was fine, all the pictures loaded and I could see each picture clearly down to the ones I took that very night. All of a sudden all the pictures disappear and the file now says that the folder is empty. When I put my sd card back into the camera, it says "no images." (I did not take any new pictures bc I read that could create a new issue.) I searched online and found out about sd card recovery softwares, found one called Stellar, and tried it. I can see what I think is the majority of my pictures, but a vast majority of the pictures from that night are disrupted. Like they were merged with other photos or half the image would be grey, etc. No clue what to do and now I'm pretty desperate. It's a brand new sx740 and sd card that I've only had for 1 year. Please help! :/
I was asked by a friend to help shoot the local rodeo. I am far from a professional but super excited to get out there. I will be shooting with my canon T6i and was offered a T2i to carry as well. The lens's I have available are the 18-55mm, a Tokina 11-16mm and a 28 -135mm. My thought is to put the 28-135mm on my t6i body and the tokina on the t2i. If anybody here has done rodeo photography any tips or recommendations are greatly appreciated. I will be shooting at different times of day and night and many different events so im just looking for a little guidance if anyone has some!
I need some help with a gift! My significant other has a Canon DS126741 which I believe is the Canon EOS Rebel T7. She coaches volleyball and would like a lens that is capable of shooting action shots.
Lighting would be standard gym lighting and the subjects are usually about 30ft-50ft away. Budget is in the neighborhood of $500. Anyone have recommendations?
I've been taking photographs of local landscapes and architecture on an iPhone 16 Pro and budget Nikon DSLR and attracting significant interest and looking to take it to another level.
My photography is highly personalised in style and that is what is gaining attention. It looks as though I may attract funding to acquire a professional camera and lenses to produce pieces for framed artwork, though I may not have long to decide and survey the market adequately so I'm looking for feedback from experienced photographers.
Is the Hasselblad X2D II 100C a good candidate?
Any major caveats?
Suggestions of alternatives welcomed!
bit odd to jump from an iPhone and a budget Nikon to a Hasselblad. i would get a Sony A7Rv or A7Rvi and some nice lenses if you're flush with funds and need very high resolution. people who genuinely need more than 60/70 megapixels are few and far between. but i don't know anything about your life, perhaps it's justified.
hello everyone just asking i really love photography and decided to start doing it as a hobby, my gear is nikon d5100 with the kit lens, is this a solid gear for beginners? or should i get a better lens
I suggest spending some time with it before purchasing anything else, get a feel for the kind of photography you like to do and that help you decide what other lens you'd want (if any).
The lessons at r/photoclass are a great way to get started.
I have a Canon eos r5 mirrorless camera and I want to buy lens.
I will use it for dog photography, more specifically, taking photos of dogs who are already big and I want to make them (the entire body if possible, not the kind of photo where one part is obviously zoomed and emphasized) look bigger and more imposing while looking realistic. I also want to be able to shoot near them and not have to get further away (like with the rf135mm). my first priority is to make them look bigger, second priority is I want to take a video and capture the dogs movements smoothly and also make them look detailed in both video and photos
I have 3500$ budget. I don't have photography knowledge, and AI recommended me some different lenses like RF 24-70mm F2.8 L IS USM, RF 15-35mm F2.8L IS USM, RF 50mm f/1.2L USM but I don't know which is suitable for my purpose, and if there are other lenses that are more suitable for me (please tell me if so!)
What lenses are there for landscape photography for canon APS-C dslr cameras?
I bought a canon eos 700d a few days ago, and im curious what lenses could i use for landscape photography? im willing to spend at most 170$. I have looked at multiple lenses, like the 24mm prime (which behaves like a 38mm on an APS-C, and people with FF cameras said that 24mm is the one above all. The 24mm equivalent on APS-C would be a 16mm which just doesnt exist for that price.) I have seen on a lot of posts and forums that zoom lenses are just not good for landscape, but it seems like to me that those are my only options, since i cant find prime lenses which would suit what i want. Im a complete beginner, and i live in hungary. Thank you for any help!
Does anyone have any recommendations for a belt I can use to hold my camera while I'm hiking? I went out today with just a neckstrap and it ended up rubbing my skin raw and just wasn't comfortable when I wear it across my body due to my backpack straps. I know there's the peak design capture clip thing that goes on the backpack strap, but anatomically I don't think it will be comfortable for me, so I'm looking for a belt of some sorts. My camera isn't big, just a Fujifilm XT30-iii.
Hiyaa,
I have just purchased a Nikon ZR and have two lenses and flashes from an old camera.
I am looking for a case to protect all this equipment that is still decently transportable. I am currently looking at the pelican vault 300 or 1510sc studio. I am open to other brands but this is the type of case I am looking for.
My price cap is 450 at the most but if the vault 300 is a good case id much rather buy it at $120 than a more expensive case.
What are the best free and easy-to-use software options for fixing underwater diving photos? I want to remove the blue color tint that the ocean gives the pictures.
Hi just discovered the photographer Brian Finke on Instagram was wondering what camera or editing style he would use to get his style of photography. I really love the true looking colors but it seems they still have good contrast is anyone familiar with his work?
Should i get a mirrorless camera in 2026. I was considering getting canon R50 in the upcoming festive sales. Would immediately also get a nifty50 lens.
Budget: <=1lakh INR (with the extra lens, camera bag, sd card, etc) Or they're not relevant in 2026 considering phones have come a long way and the convenience of having a phone everywhere with you cannot be matched by a dedicated camera ever? As the saying goes the best camera is the one you have with you.
Or should i just upgrade my phone? All your views are welcome.
P.S i own a samsung s23 base model 256gb variant and use it as my primary phone and the only camera for casual photos and any trips i take.
P.S I am an absolute beginner in photography but enjoy clicking photos in general. Never tried a dedicated camera before.
It really depends on what you want. Phones have come a long way but short of using AI filters, AI modifications I am not sure how much more they can improve.
There are still lots of things that dedicated cameras can do that phones struggle with or are unable to do because of their small sensor size and the lenses.
I.E. low light a dedicated camera with a 50mm f1.8 lens is going to do much better than a phone. Wildlife, macro photography, sports/action from a distance.
As to if it is worth it that is a judgement call that only you can make and depends on how much of a hobby you want photography to be. If your goal is pictures of friends and family spending time together socially, some short videos, vacation photos a phone will everything you need.
If you want to get in action/sports/wildlife, macro, low light etc.. A dedicated camera is worth it. I have an S25+ and its a good phone camera but compared by my R series bodies and looking at the images full screen on a monitor the difference is very obvious. Viewing the images on IG via my phone its a lot harder to tell the difference which is unfortunately how most people view photography.
It depends on where you want to go with photography. If it's casual daily photography, touristy shots etc, phones do very well. But if you seriously want to learn photography, then an interchangeable lens camera is the way to go. Phones are fine for learning composition but they are limited for learning exposure, depth of field etc. And there are many kinds of photography that phones don't handle well, because you need specialist lenses for them: wildlife, macro and such. Of course you CAN get an interchangeable lens camera to use on full auto, but that's not the ideal use case for them: phones do everything for you because of software processing, dedicated cameras don't.
Ok, so idk who's heard of them, but there's this group called the "Forward Observations Group" or just Forward, and every single photo their journalists take looks so hard and has the most beautiful 2000s nostalgic-looking tint to it, and i was wondering if anyone might know what tints or edits I can make to regular photos or even better, what camera might have taken these photos with the tint as part of the camera.
I like to shoot wildlife and just I moved from Sony 200-600mm to 400-800mm for extra reach. I use tips from all my research but can't get crisp photos unless I'm relatively close to subjects (as much as I can in the situation). Example - I use around 1/2000 shutter speed for birds, tripod when possible, shooting at around F11 or more to get focus faster. How do people on social media have such clear photos of wildlife? Does editing help in increasing sharpness as well?
Yes I use manual for stationary subjects. I'm not sure if I'm just over expecting my long shots to be clearer than they can be. I'll try to add some shots after the weekend for reference
It depends on your subjects and gear. If you're having a hard time focusing on a sparrow sitting on a branch then your issue is most likely poor setting choices or you're using a much older body that has generally poor autofocus. If you're shooting tree swallows in flight then you should expect tons of missed shots.
The people on social media only post their best shots. You don't see all the shots they missed.
Good evening, I’m hoping for some technical help. I haven’t really been in the camera world in over a decade. I’ve had SLR’s and DSLR’s in the past (last one was a Cannon Rebel T3, I think.) I’m looking at purchasing a Nikon D850 as my next camera. I don’t really have experience with Nikon, aside from their reputation. Can someone recommend a good all around lens or two for the D850?
It depends on what you shoot. For a general lens, a 24-70 will give you a good blend of versatility and image quality. You can then go wider with something like a 14-24 or longer with a 70-200. Those are the traditional options.
How would you go about practically photographing something like this, obviously needs to be comped. But trying to wrap my head around the seperate plates needed. Any advice appreciated
Short answer, something like photoshop. I usually use GIMP, so something like this would probably take more effort.
You would take a picture of the empty vehicle at the angle that you wanted, then stage the people in chairs placed as they should be in the vehicle (even better if you can do that with the seats from the vehicle). You would then work some photoshop magic.
The hardest part is if you can’t remove at least the back seat for the picture with the people. Then you’ll have to recreate the portion of the seat that was previously hidden by the door. AI might be the best option for that.
Did anyone start off doing photography just for fun as a hobby and then found themself transitioning into an actual career as a photographer? What was that transition like and how did you decide that was the route to go?
I mainly ask because I have realized that I’m spending a lot more on this (as a hobby) than I expected to and am thinking about trying to find a way to make my photography pay for itself or at least help offset my gear expenses. I realize I don’t have THAT much invested, under $1k, but that’s still a decent amount. Also, I primarily just do landscape photography and don’t really want to deal with people and portraits. The other thing that concerns me with my photography and trying to make money is I know my gear isn’t top of the line and to a small extent that affects quality. (Nikon d3300 and basic accessories) I know my photography is still good and gear don’t inherently make a photo poor quality, but I would love higher res photos if I wanted to make money doing this. Am I just overthinking this?
Very many pro photographers start out as hobbyists. Gear isn't the first or the most important thing to consider when starting out. Clients don't choose a photographer because of gear but because the photographer's work matches what they want for themselves.
The important things are: skill and experience in photography that is marketable, a portfolio of your work in such photography and skill in marketing. Marketable photography usually involves people as subjects: portraits, weddings, events etc. Your portfolio shows potential clients what you can do. And marketing skill is important because you need to be able to sell your services to potential clients, to make them choose you over the competition. And there WILL be competition, a lot of it.
Hello wonderful community of r/photography! I am here today to seek some advice for shooting my first event.
For some background I am strictly an amateur photographer, and have never earned a single cent from it, but it is something I have enjoyed doing mostly when traveling over the last 10ish years. I have brought my camera to a few family and friends parties, but there was never any expectation from me in regards to my photos, or if they ever actually saw the light of day and graced someone else’s eyeballs other than mine. But when they are seen by my friends and family they are generally well received!
Recently my wife recruited me to be the photographer for her sister’s bridal shower with about 100 guests in attendance. Which means now there is an expectation of me to produce quality photos to the best of my abilities. I want to make sure I get things right and use the best tools that are available to me to do so.
I currently own a Ricoh GR3 and a Sony A7C and the following gear:
*Tamron 28-75mm f2.8
*Tamron 20-40mm f2.8
*Rokinon/Samyang 35mm f1.8
*Neewer speedlight that I bought for an older Nikon but works on manual with my A7C, which I’ve only ever used once
For this event I am planning on sticking to my A7C so I don’t have to worry about juggling two cameras. Right off the bat the prime is off the table as I want the flexibility of a zoom, but not sure which of the two I should commit to. If it helps, photos of the venue can be found here.
I also ordered a Godox TT350s speed light for the flexibility of TTL, but I’m willing to just use my manual flash and practice before hand if you believe that would be better. Or if should just use ambient light!
I am not being brought on as a replacement for a professional, as there wouldn’t have been one to begin with. I am just the family member with the nice camera who they see take and share nice photos every so often.
Really could use some resources for group posing at events! I have no experience with posing and my main model (wife) just does her thing when I take pictures of her without any directions from me!
Appreciate any opinions, suggestions or resources you can provide to help me prepare for this!
Which means now there is an expectation of me to produce quality photos to the best of my abilities.
If they're not paying, which I'm assuming is the case since your wife got you to do it, definitely set low expectations. The "client" gets whatever they get. If they want guaranteed quality photos, they should have hired a photographer.
That being said, sharing some tips and tutorials.
Event photography gear:
Use what you have but know that it's best to have a camera with dual memory card slots. So you have instant backup of all images.
For lenses, use the Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 as your main lens. Good midrange zoom.
Tamron 20-40mm f2.8 can be good for establishing shots of the building exterior, the room interior and big group photos.
I also ordered a Godox TT350s speed light for the flexibility of TTL
It's good you're getting a flash with TTL. Flash is a must-have, especially for shooting parties indoors.
Personally, I would have gone with a bigger flash like a Godox V860 III. But that can be too big and heavy on the A7C.
Photography fundamentals:
Some of the might be review, but worth watching if you're still a beginner.
In this case, you would set your camera's white balance to "tungsten" or "incandescent." They're same type of lighting but different names.
Event photography behind the scenes:
Event Photography Walkthroughs by The F/Stops Here. There isn't a video about shooting bridal showers specifically, but watching these videos will give you insight on how a veteran pro event photographer thinks.
Thank you so much for the detailed response, truly appreciate it! The resources are life savers and will be going over them throughout the week in preparation.
I’ll bring my camera sling and bring the 20-40 for the wider shots like you suggest. As well as back up SD cards, and batteries for the camera and flash.
So I just got the Sony A7V. I’ve been adjusting the settings and tweaking things over the past two days. I know BBF can be a hot button topic but I’ve set it up that way. One thing I’ve noticed and I’m going to try and explain it the best I can is the following. I have the camera set to AF-C and disabled focus with half press shutter. So now I’m using BBF and my understanding of that is I press the BBF and release it acts like AF-S if I continue holding the button it acts like AF-C. I’ve tried single pressing the button the green box comes up on my static subject I release the green box goes away I move the camera to recompose and take the picture. When reviewing in playback it is very clear the focus is where I initially wanted it. But I have my playback view to go to the focus point when I press the AF-on button, pressing that button it goes to basically the center. IF I continuously hold the AF-on and recompose and take the picture, in playback it shows the green box confirming the focus and will go to that point if I press the AF-on. From what I’ve looked up this seems to be a quirk with the playback not having an official data point so it goes to the center of the photo? Clearly the focus in both photos is doing what I want, It just is odd how the camera doesn’t recognize single pressing the back button focus. Also, it’s hard to describe this properly so feel free to ask questions…
Hi everyone! I currently shoot with a Canon EOS 80D (APS-C / crop sensor) and a 50mm f/1.8 STM lens.
The 50mm is great for portraits, but I'm starting to feel limited by it.
I want to add some extra excitement to my photography, get more flexibility and
some width in my shots. My subjects include babies and their details, kids in motion, families in nature, cars, and indoor events.
I want a lens that gives me that wide-angle freedom for indoor spaces and landscapes, while still keeping a bright aperture for indoor stuff and kids.
I've been looking at the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, but I've seen a lot of people in Facebook groups claim that it isn't good for crop sensors.
At the same time, others recommend the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM as the ultimate all-rounder for crop cameras.
For those of you shooting on an 80D or similar APS-C body:
Is the 24-105mm really a bad idea for a crop sensor considering my mix of indoor and outdoor shooting? Is 17-55mm f/2.8 a better all-rounder
(does it actually give that fun, wide, "all-in-one" experience while still letting me shoot close-up details?)
One of my cameras is a 70D and for a wide variety of content, outdoors; motorsports, drifting and indoors (boxing/mma) and I use the 18-135mm. That combo has been very solid for my needs, though though I do wish in certain situations, that it could go to f/2.8
What are everyone’s auto focus settings specifically when photographing people? Do you use all the subject and eye tracking/detection? None? I follow a photographer on insta who uses none and I’m trying it out and I think I might like it better. (I didn’t think I would) There’s no jumping around and it only uses the specific focus box you’ve told it to and where. I’m shooting on a canon R10.
I have a canon 50mm 1.8 stm that had a fungus growing inside the front element, i managed to disassemble the front element and remove the lens from the assembly, now I removed the fungus that grew inside the lenses but now I can't manage to clean them in a way that doesn't leave marks or spots, how to do that?
So I have these two projects in school and I am first year (Croatian high school system really hard to explain but basically our high schools are like colleges). I need to take photos on the themes "Just one earth" and "The golden colors of autumn" but the "just one earth" is the first one. I live close to a forest so I was thinking of going there but I don't really know much techniques and I don't really have any ideas on what to do for it, I was thinking maybe finding trash in there and taking pictures of that and also cleaning it after but that's really it. It would be nice if someone could tell me some techniques I could look into that would fit these or the both themes and just tell me some ideas on what to do. One thing worth saying is I can edit these photos and I have lightroom and photoshop for free.
It's a little corny, but you could try making a few "Little Planet" photos. It'll show both photography and photoshop proficiency and loosely fit the theme.
Okay I’m hoping you guys might be able to help me with this.
Recently I’ve noticed that when I take an image the file sizes are roughly 12.5mb - 18mb.
When I take these photos into photoshop to poly edits etc and then hit to export the highest the file size will go is 8mb? Is this normal?
I could’ve swore it would have MORE information not less, but maybe my export settings are weird.
Idk if I’m doing something wrong and if so what are your settings?
It heavily depends on your output format and the amount of compression you are apply. If your camera is set to fine, best etc.. whatever the highest quality JPEG option it is it likely uses very little compression.
When you export from Photoshop it gives you an option of quality that goes up to 10. The lower the number the more aggressive the compression is. So you may have the jpeg output compressing the data more in Photoshop than the camera does natively.
Or you may be shooting a RAW file which may have no compression. Outputting the results to JPEG is going to introduce compression even on the highest setting which result in a reduced file size.
I need to have a print made that’s going to be 24x36. Would like to stick to around $120 or less. I realize no cheap canvas is going to be awesome, but where will give me the best quality for that budget?
Timelapse: Photos to Video, per App or Windows
Post Processing
hi. I have 365 hand held photos from a house with a garden over a year to make a movie from. Yes, every image has a bit other angle, direction, etc. I want to make a 10 seconds and a 100 s video of them. But to adjust each photo to a master photo per Photoshop or GIMP is no fun. Manually on Smartfon even harder.
For those of you who use a cell phone as part of their workflow what do you use what do you recommend? I don't care about the camera on the phone, I'm more interested in how it integrates with say editing and sharing photos and videos.
I have an iMac but a Samsung phone currently and I'm considering switching back to an Apple phone for the purpose of the integration between those two devices. I was fairly frustrated with the iPhone that I had before and so I have some resistance to going back to it but I think the integration might make it worth it. So I guess the choice is between a Samsung Ultra with a lot of storage or an apple pro. Any advice from personal experience is appreciated
i think you should be a bit more specific about "integration". do you mean icloud photos sync? because that stuff gets expensive very quickly. figure out your photo storage situation, then think about ecosystem. chances are that you don't want to be paying apple tax for storage, and then it doesn't matter what platform you're on. all the flagships are basically the same in terms of photos.
Well, a lot of people talk about the Apple ecosystem: how their various devices work together. So I guess if you are an iMac user then an iPhone would be a good choice.
r/photography is not a good place to promote your work or simply share cool photos/videos, but rather a place to discuss the tools, technique and culture of photography.
Posting images is only allowed as part of a self-post, and only when the intent is to start a discussion or to ask a photography-related question on a broad and nonspecific topic.
If this is your own work we encourage you to submit it to /r/photographs, our sister photo sharing sub.
I feel like it depends on what you shoot typically, i do a lot of landscape stuff and frequently shoot F8-11 but could absolutely see that being the case if you primarily do portraits or something like that
When I started reading online what other photographers were talking about trying to achieve, it looked to me like 75% were obsessed with bokeh and nothing eles. Bokeh Bokeh Bokeh Bokeh! They would only focus on the bokeh when discussing lenses, They would discuss the shape and character of the bokeh from lens to lens, it was all that mattered to them.
1
u/Mediatation Sep 18 '26
Hello,
I have a GH5 (Lumix) for photography and I started to used my old camera lens (some are Minolta) from my first reflex A200. I have a ring to adapt but it's a manual ring and I can't find an automatic ring.
Is there an automatic ring who does micro 4/3 DSLR camera body, to Type A camera lens ? If yes, where can I find one ?