I found this video where someone cuts a PET bottle into a thin strip and pulls it trough a hot glue gun to turn it into 3D printer filament:

https://youtube.com/shorts/93P_Neh2eyE?si=O_7nU4qeIJLWWx8p

Has anyone tried something like this? Does the finished filament actually print reliably or would the uneven diameter cause clogging or poor prints? It seems very simple to make a knife tip. hot glue gun and some filament to print the parts.

RIP
8 printers (p1s, p2s, x1, h2s) with issues ranging from snapped belts to busted eddy sensors to i don’t even remember.
If you’re in or around atlanta and can fix these i would pay ya, think they are probably all decently easy fixes i just lack the time and patience atm but id love to have them back up and running in my farm, lmk!

So i don't reddit much, but I wanted to ask. I just sprung for an AMS for the first time so I can print the wife the things she's wanted for awhile. This took 8+ hours and the poop bin was overflowing when I came back to see it completed. This entire bin.. is 90% from this print only... Is this normal?

Edit: thank everyone for honesty unexpectedly incredible tips and ideas! Thank you all so much I have a lot of comments saved for future prints!!

Gostaria muito de ter essa case, alguém consegue me ajudar a encontrar o STL para imprimir?

Gratuito ou pago, não encontrei em lugar nenhum

I spent $35 on this tiny print made from craft cloud and “3d pros” out of Florida, and the quality is…..um….well…..
I’m going to have to work on this which I was expecting. I used a free file for the juvenile Rex Hammond collection and am retrofitting it onto another figure.
I expected lines but the teeth detail and mouth detail are gone and I’m really disappointed.
I originally used this service because the original Hammond figure I want is too expensive right now so I thought making my own would be better.
I’m not imagining this is horrible quality right?
I would be less upset if $35 was a smaller sum…for the small amount of material this is.
Wondering if anyone has any suggestions/would be open for a better commission.

Update:

Thank you all for your kind offers and support I didn’t expect this to blow up as much as it did. I am now enlightened as to how much something should cost, and quality.
I initiated a dispute with the original printer and hopefully will hear back soon. If not, lesson learned and I know where to go for assistance.
This community is amazing, and so generous.
I have received help from Inevitable_toe_3054 and am so grateful.

New to 3d printing and I am trying to create or find a stl for a cover like this picture. 6" diameter x2"h Any suggestions?

Hi r/3Dprinting! I know next to nothing about this stuff.

I'm piecing together a project guitar (a Univox Hi-Flier for the guitarists/Nirvana fans out there) and purchased a pickup and pickup ring on Reverb. The seller listed it as an original pickup and mounting ring circa 1968. It arrived today, and while the pickup is definitely as advertised, the mounting ring doesn't quite pass the smell test. I'm more familiar with guitar parts than 3D printed things, but it certainly doesn't look like something that would've been injection molded in a Japanese factory back in the '60s. The top view looks about right (at least as far as wear relative to its age and the pickup itself is concerned), it has a very faint layered look when you flip it to the side, and underneath is where it really throws me off.

I'm not exactly shooting for 100% period correct with this project or anything, but thought I'd call in the experts before I have an awkward conversation with the seller and try for a partial refund or something.

What's the verdict?

EDIT: Thank you to everyone who shared their insight and expertise. I reached out to the seller. As a few people suggested, it seems to be a case where he purchased a guitar and this part was on it. It was either sold to him as original or SEEMED to be original and we're dealing with a 50-60 year old instrument here so it's not like it's possible to know where exactly every part came from. There wasn't a bottom view of the part in the listing so I didn't catch this.

I'm somewhat inclined to believe him, based solely on the fact that if you look at the pickup ring next to the pickup itself the wear on the two looks surprisingly similar. Like the top view of the 3D printed part might look like a hack job in isolation but it comes pretty close to matching the authentic wear on the real, old guitar electronics. Not able to post a pic at the moment.

Not sure where I'll go from here since it's kind of a mixed bag. I don't think there was anything malicious going on with *this* seller (but maybe on the part of whoever sold it to him), the part is technically functional for me for now, and I have the working electronic piece. We'll see what happens.

I had someone print this for me as I don't have my own printer/don't know much about it. I think the material used is a lightweight one and is not durable in high heat/outdoor use. I don't know how to remove the support without breaking it. It is pretty rough and stuck to the structure.

Update: thanks for all the comments, i spent about 30 mins with a plier and removed the supports, some vertical parts broke but it is possible to glue everything together. This specific object is not all that important for my project so of if time allows i could redo it. I posted more context in the comments with a pic of the resulted structure. I think I'm gonna get a 3d printer eventually so i would appreciate tips on good ones with fair prices, and what types of ink there is/what kinds of printing methods there is.

It was cheap ($56 + $30 s/h), it's large (330mm x 368mm), printed with petg and had a 1month lead time. Print seems solid but has lots of layer shift and messy edges. Do you think I got what I paid for?

I was thinking of calling it a benchy. Because... you know... it's a bench.

But in all seriousness, I started a print on LAN mode last night and woke up to this. Did I forget a filament option when slicing? Or do I need to unload/reload filament once I enter LAN..?

I bought this AT-AT remote holder on Etsy and I'm quite disappointed with the quality of what's arrived, but as I haven't printed anything myself (I just aspire to😅) I wasn't sure if this was expected quality and wanted some advice before contacting the seller.

Is this a bad quality print? Am I justified in being disappointed?

It seems abnormally thin in places, especially towards one side and there are holes in random places.

Some parts look thin enough to break.

It's not the same quality as their photos on Etsy.

Edit:

To answer some questions I paid £17 (about $23). The photos on the listing showed a much higher quality print but I can't access all of these now as the seller has taken down the listing.

The seller took down the listing when I contacted them to ask why it had been shipped on the first expected delivery date. (Purchased on 31st August, shipped 5th September.) Estimated delivery dates when I was buying it were 5th-8th September. This was then changed to 8th-11th when it was shipped. I wouldn't have bought it if I knew it would take this long.

Thank you to everyone who has given advice or has helped with information to go to the seller with!😊

My husband died unexpectedly last week. It's distressing for me to have all his stuff around so I am slowly trying to get rid of things. The 3D printing stuff is taking up a lot of space, but I'm not sure what to do with it. I'm not sure if these machines are new enough or in good enough or working condition to be sold, or even donated somewhere. One is even showing an error message on the display. I think the printers he had at home are both Ender 3 v2. I'm in Durham, NC, if that is relevant.

He had 2 printers at home and I believe a third at his shop. I have gotten into his amazon account and can see what printers he bought and what upgrades he bought over the years, but I still don't know enough about them to be able to say what has actually been upgraded or whatever in order to make an accurate listing on marketplace or ebay etc, and I'm not sure what they would be worth, if anything.

Does anyone have any advice for me? Thanks.

**UPDATE - Thanks everyone, seems like the majority of you are saying just to donate. Durham County Library turned me down; they had a grant and have all fancy new machines. I've contacted Splat Space here in Durham, and if they also turn me down I will try some local schools, I guess. I appreciate all the kind words. He was a collector/hobbyist of many things, so don't worry, there will still be plenty of his stuff around even if I get rid of the 3D printers. ******

How do I reliably print keycaps? I’m getting tired of getting spaghetti with a 50% success rate. It’s okay if the print only takes 2 hours, but printing a whole bed usually takes 8–9 hours.

The cause is always the same: one keycap unsticks from the bed, which then causes the entire print to fail.

Here’s what I’ve tried so far:

1. Increased the first-layer height from 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm
2. Applied glue stick before every print

Printer: Snapmaker U1
Nozzle: 0.4 mm

EDIT: I am outside the house most of the time thus leaving my printer printing most of the time. My business initially does not involve 3D printing but more people are asking for fidget clickers.
Usually events last 4-8hours thus I am looking for a way to maximize the time I am outside. I am not optimizing for speed but efficiency.

What I will try next:

1. Try Cryogrip plate

If that fails, will fall back to your suggestions:

1. Batch by 30

2. Use brim

3. Buy additional printer

What I have been doing I haven’t mentioned:

1. Wash plate every print

Others suggestions for future:

1. Use raft
2. Print by object
3. Lessen fan speed on initial layers
4. Print a mold instead

I don’t care about being downvoted, but being rude is out of line.

This was mounted on my wall to cover up an ugly plastic lid covering an unused dead fuse box, i was told to moce it away cuz my dad want to see the inside of the box, when i grab the nose its just crumbled, like a really dry pastry bread or something, i printed this long ago with pla on a creality ender 3 pro (the really old one) back in i dunno 2016 19 20? It's really that old, and as you can see in the video it's just crumbled to pieces, like breaking a really dry wood or leaves

Do pla do that at long terms? I plant to 3d print a really large painting fortress for my mini painting workstation, and if this gonna happen in the long 5 to 3 years then I'm cooked bro🥲

Is it properly priced?

I saw these climbing holds for sale on etsy. And after looking closer I realized they were 3D printed.

Don't get me wrong, I know printers these days make great products... But climbing holds need to be really strong ?

I messaged the seller and he said he just switched from polyurethane to polyethylene. But based on the photos it looks like it's still FDM printing.

So I guess I'm asking is it safe to print climbing holds? What filament or settings should I use?

Ps, this would not be for kids. I weigh over 250 lbs. So it kinda needs to be strong.

Hey all! My kiddo chose this collapsible knife/sword yesterday at a community festival. Poor little (he's ten) guy has had some rotten luck lately with 3D printed objects, but continues to be drawn to all of the fun fidgets and things when he finds them in the wild. I can't say I blame him!

Anyway. Here's where we're at today. I am quite clueless when it comes to 3D printing, but it looks to me like the little band at the bottom of the detached piece came off (broke off? slipped off?) and that allowed the blade tip to come out of the larger segment below it. When it came out, the small band was not attached to the blade tip.

He's bummed, and I'm not seeing a way to put the pieces back together (I'm afraid to damage it if I try too hard!), so I thought I'd see if anyone here has a suggestion or is familiar with this particular design and can advise. Google suggests it may have been printed as one piece, which would mean I cannot fix it, correct?

Whew! That was wordy... so thanks for making it to the end 😅

I thought the supports in Bambu labs studio would’ve easy to remove but turns out they go through the model and I didn’t notice since my laptop was moving at like 3 fps when I sliced the print

For context, I am a college student working part time at a library and I am the youngest person there. Of course, they put me in charge of all the tech related things. I have been teaching myself how to use our 3d printer and I have been pretty successful thus far. Until today. I went to make some bookmarks for the kids that come to the library after school, and when I went to check to make sure it was adhering correctly, I found this. Will I need to tell my director we need a new building plate or is this fixable? I'm sure it won't be too big of a deal if we need to buy a new plate, but it has only been used to make a few small items, so if I can salvage it I would like to. Thanks for any advice!

New to this. Waiting for vacuum bags only have off brand zip lock. There is silica in every crevice, will this dry?

So, like the title says, I’m new to 3D printing. I think I figured out how to set everything up (don’t quote me on that), but I’m a bit worried about branding for new filament. On the side of the printer, sit says, “The use of third-party filaments is prohibited.” It’s a Weedo Tina2S v10. I’ll attach a picture. If the brand of filament doesn’t matter, I would appreciate anyone’s input about the filament they like to use for a printer similar to mine! Thank you for reading!

Edit: Thank you to everyone who had good advice for me. For those of you wondering why I “bought” this specific brand, I didn’t. I won it in a raffle lol. Just trying to make the best out of a free thing! Mostly going to be using it in my classroom for stem stuff! I made my mom a Mother’s Day present with it! And I just finished a turtle 🐢. For those who gave advice outside of filament business, I appreciated those as well. Keep all the advice coming, I really do appreciate it! 😁