Cross posting for more eyes. Thank you for any insights 👀

Please help me I still didn’t fix the issue…

Any idea how to get rid of these icons?

I've set it up using https://github.com/FlyingEwok/MinecraftSplitscreenSteamdeck

But it makes one screen and then just turns black!

It happens when I use gamemods but It works a little when in desktop mode (but it makes one screen to many and controls don't have their individual input)

Is it something I did to fuck it up? Does it work for anyone else?

Hey all,
I posted this is in r/SteamDeck and then found this community, so posting again.

I've got a Steam Deck OLED, about 3 years old and out of warranty. Roughly 1 in 3 or 4 times I power it on, the battery percentage drops about 1% every 2 seconds. This morning I watched it happen while just sitting in SteamOS with no game running. I stopped all downloads and updates and turned on airplane mode, and it kept falling at the same rate. Other boots are totally normal, and last night I got 2+ hours of WoW through Battle.net with no problems.

What I've tried:

- Disabled downloads and updates and turned on airplane mode. Still drops.
- Power + volume BIOS reset
- Battery storage mode from the BIOS, per Steam support
- Desktop mode reports 87% battery health

Valve's RMA partner quoted $185. The iFixit battery kit is $130 and I have the tools, so I'm weighing the swap against the RMA. I leave on a long trip in about 45 days.

Has anyone seen this intermittent pattern? Did a new battery fix it, or was it the board or the fuel gauge? Is the RMA worth the extra $50?

Thanks!

Steam Deck LCD — black internal screen (no backlight), touchscreen + external display work — SOLVED by firmware/BIOS update, not a hardware fault

TL;DR: Internal LCD stayed completely black (no backlight, no boot logo) while the device otherwise worked fine (boot chime, haptics, fans, external USB-C display, SSH, touchscreen). eDP-1 reported disconnected with EDID = 0 bytes. I replaced the screen AND cable with no change. The actual fix was a firmware/BIOS update (BIOS F7A0131 → F7A0133) applied automatically by re-imaging with the official SteamOS recovery image. No hardware replacement was needed.

Hardware:

• Steam Deck LCD (originally 64GB eMMC, upgraded to 256GB NVMe Samsung PM9B1)
• Motherboard: Valve Jupiter, Family Aerith (DMI Product Name: Jupiter)
• Bought used, sold as “non-working screen”; previous owner had already replaced the display cable
• Panel (new replacement): BOE TV070WXM-TV1-3GP1 (the original Steam Deck LCD panel, anti-glare/IPS version)

Symptoms:

• Internal screen completely black — no backlight, not even the Steam Deck boot logo
• Boot chime, haptics, fans, trackpads all worked
• External display via USB-C hub (HDMI) worked perfectly
• SSH worked
• Touchscreen (FTS3528) was recognized → I2C line through the display cable was fine

Diagnostics (before fix):

cat /sys/class/drm/card1-eDP-1/status   → disconnected
cat /sys/class/drm/card1-eDP-1/edid | wc -c   → 0

• dmesg showed amdgpu loading cleanly, Display Core v3.2.359 on DCN 3.0.1, DMUB initialized — but no eDP link training and no HPD (hot-plug detect) activity at all
• GPU, motherboard, both ZIF connectors (motherboard + panel CN1) all visually fine
• BIOS version: F7A0131 (01/30/2024)
• Was running Bazzite (Fedora Atomic), not SteamOS

What I tried (did NOT work):

• Battery disconnect / power cycle (soft reset)
• Forcing eDP on via kernel arg video=eDP-1:e — EDID still 0
• Brand new replacement panel + new cable
• Multiple display cables (3 total)
• Cleaning connectors with isopropyl alcohol, reseating both ends carefully

The fix:
Found a Reddit post with identical symptoms (black internal screen, external works, EDID=0, disconnected) that was solved by a firmware update — that user ended up on BIOS F7A0133.

Since I was on Bazzite (no Valve firmware-fix option), I:

1. Downloaded the official SteamOS recovery image from Valve
2. Wrote it to a USB drive
3. Booted from USB (via efibootmgr -n since I had an external display)
4. Chose “Wipe Device & Install SteamOS”

During install, SteamOS automatically staged and applied a BIOS update: F7A0131 → F7A0133, plus a controller firmware update. After the reboot and firmware flash, the internal screen came back to life.

After fix:

cat /sys/class/drm/card*-eDP-1/status   → connected
cat /sys/class/drm/card*-eDP-1/edid | wc -c   → 128
cat /sys/class/backlight/*/max_brightness   → 65535
cat /sys/bus/iio/devices/iio:device0/in_illuminance_raw   → working (ambient light sensor)

Note: manual brightness control in Quick Settings needed one extra reboot to start working after the firmware update.

Key takeaway: If your Steam Deck LCD has a black internal screen (no backlight) but the external display and touchscreen still work, and you see eDP-1 disconnected / EDID 0 bytes with no link training in dmesg — try a firmware/BIOS update BEFORE buying a new screen, cable, or motherboard. In some cases this is a firmware state fault, not hardware. An outdated BIOS (F7A0131) was the culprit; F7A0133 fixed it.

For months, fully-updated Xbox controllers (both series S and X) have had intermittent connectivity issues with the deck while it is docked. There are dozens of reported fixes for it, most of which tell you to update firmware or remove other Bluetooth devices from the area.

It isn't on an exact timer. I've timed the disconnections and they span from 4 minutes apart, all the way to 25. I've done my due diligence going through possible fixes and have found nothing. I've not seen any official recognition of the problem, but a bunch of anecdotal accounts of it happening.

The game is Torchlight Infinite.

I spilled a tiny drop of soda on the screen and don’t want sugar residue left over. I looked online for answers but got mixed results (isopropyl alcohol 90-99%, distilled water, simply just a microfiber cloth). Any answers from people who actually own a steam deck would help.

I have updated my steam deck today (after not playing it of about 2weeks) and my haptic feedback are not working. I restarted it several times tho

When playing game, only the right trackpad haptic feedback is working. Left is not.

Can anyone help?

the RTC client breaks some app images for me, only reason i’m on it is for switch 2 confrollerd