My friend Dexter was commissioned by Trey Parker, co-creator of South Park, to build a game table for Blood & Plunder. This is the finished table. I’m sharing it for him.

It’s 4' x 6' table and features a lighthouse, docks, water, a harbor, a tavern, a fortified prison, a market, shipyard cranes, a stone warehouse and a Spanish Mission. Dexter built it by hand over a year, and he filmed the whole process as a 16-part series on YouTube, from the first thoughts to the finished table.

I’d love to know what you’d want on a pirate game table. Anything you’d add or do differently?

Happy to answer questions about the build, and I’ll pass them on to Dexter.

Walk through of the Completed Trey Parker Table

Had this thing primed black on my shelf for like 7 months, and I FINALLY painted it last night & today. Been in a wildly productive hobby mood the last few weeks and got sick of seeing it sit there unpainted.

This is the first build I’ve ever used pastels for weathering, and I like the effect! I think in hindsight I would’ve used a darker color, but it’s kinda neat in its own way. Also, huge shoutout to Philip Sin’s Miniatures for creating a 3D sculpt that I borrowed inspiration from when crafting this.

Mix a bit of crooked staff dungeon floors with some good old craft.

3D printed the ship hull, added Popsicle sticks to make it look more wooden, painted, added crows nest and dragon head. What do yall think? Newest addition to my D&D terrain.

Howdy folks

This is my first fully homemade terrain piece, made from 20 something layers of cardboard, toilet paper, a little sand, and way more PVA than I expected to use.
The how-to videos said to water down the PVA 50/50, but I forgot to do that. Will this cause any problems, or will it just take longer to dry?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I’ve also just noticed how much sand I added, and am wondering about that now, too.

When building a physical model or diorama of a Minecraft Enchanting Room, regular top-down lighting can kill the mystical vibe. To get closer to the in-game look, I’ve found that the lighting works best when it’s split into three functional layers:
Key Light (Main Focus): A deep violet LED (400–420nm hue) placed at a 45-degree angle under the Enchanting Table to make the obsidian and diamond accents stand out.
Ambient Light (Background Fill): A warm yellow LED (2700K, dimmed to 20%) hidden behind the bookshelf perimeter to mimic faint torchlight on the wooden planks.
Point Light (Detail Accent): Tiny 0402 micro-LEDs inside miniature glowing lapis/redstone pieces to pull attention toward specific corners.
The wiring uses 30AWG enamel wire hidden in fake seams between the blocks and runs to a 3V button battery box.
Before I adjusted the ambient fill, the violet key light made the surrounding stone look pitch black. Turning down the key light and bringing up the background fill restored the depth of the room.
When you work on Minecraft-themed builds, which layer do you usually tune first the central magical light or the subtler torchlight in the background?

This is for a boss battle for my d&d players next week. It's suppose to be a council chamber with huge windows. I know I have a lot more work to do, but what else should I add to make it more immersive?

Before you say it - No, flyscreen or granny grating will not be suitable. It must be rectangular apeture (hole).

Having some difficulty sourcing a particular style of plastic grate. This product s basically what im looking for, but as a building wholesale supply its all bulk and i dont need 50m+ of it. on top, shipping fron europe makes it basically $700 for 10 rolls of this in the minimum order.

main thing is the rectangle apeture 3x4mm holes, fine mesh, small holes, the offset holes perfect for me but even straight rectangle mesh would be good.

trying to find similar here in australia, online is terrible.

any help for alternative stuff to search?

To go along with an earlier post on this subject

Update on my magnetic tiles project. With more tiles including windows, barricades and boarded up windows . And 3 new walkways (one same sort, two made of scrap)

Board is a kill team board. So certainly not finished yet

Some pics off groundwork and the beginning of te greenery. All made out of XPS, painted with acrylics

Disclosure: I help Dexter, the creator of The Plunder Den YouTube channel, with 3D scanning and printing. The build below is his, and the tutorial is on his channel.

Dexter built this wigwam for an Eastern Woodlands village. Wigwams were the dome-framed, bark- or mat-covered homes of the Wampanoag and other peoples in the region. It’s a scratch build, so you can scale it to your own table.

Crafting and painting tutorial of a Wigwam In The Plunder Den

Just setting it up for scale with star wars. Legion size and micro galaxy squadron

I started a rolife-style miniature build thinking the fun part would be arranging little shelves and plants, but now I’m spending way too much time thinking about glue. The included stuff works for some parts, but I can see why terrain builders have such strong opinions about adhesives. For tiny wood pieces, paper, clear plastic, and little bits of fake greenery, what works best without fogging the windows or making pieces curl? I’d like to keep the build neat and fun instead of guessing my way through every type of surface.

I want to create some really cool wired sections within my 40k terrain, some mechanicus corners tucked within buildings. Any recommendations for wiring would be much appreciated!