I used three different types of brushes, two vaccums at full power, a compressed air duster and this is the result. It’s so inconvenient and tight.

These coils wrap around each other making it impossible to go deep and clean the dust bunnies that are in the inner circle coils.

Anyone have a solution to better clean these? Thanks!

It’s for a GE, model sticker in the last pictures.

I have an older Premier brand gas range and I have replaced the igniter twice over the past year. The first time I installed an aftermarket replacement. That lasted for only about 6 months. This last time I ordered the OEM part thinking it would last.

The igniter glows but it is not sending gas or lighting that I can tell. I think the igniter needs to pull a certain current to trigger the gas valve. Is this right?

I'm thinking the problem must be deeper than igniters going bad, or could it just be that I've gotten 2 bum igniters that didn't last?

hello, i have just moved to a new place with a new washing machine and was wondering what is causing this crazy loud sound when the water is filling in the washing machine. my old washing machine had probably thicker hose for water but I have zero experience with this so not sure if its the hose or any other issue. i dont know these things :( this is a new building and im the first person living here and using washing machine. thank you for any help and checking in advance <3

Hi all, desperate last attempt to salvage my 10+ year old dishwasher before replacing it.

I just bought a flat this summer and the dishwasher came too. It's an IKEA integrated slimline MEDELSTOR dishwasher (I don't think you can buy them anymore).

It's just started displaying the error code i30 and is constantly draining but, on removing the front plate, there is no water under the dishwasher.

When I press the foam float down the draining noise stops, but starts as soon as I let go. I scrubbed a bit underneath the float just in case there was any limescale or dirt build up that might prevent it moving down but that didn't seem to solve it.

I have tried flushing through the sump area with hot water, washing up liquid and water and finally vinegar. The water drains away with no issues. I tried using a squeegee bottle to force the water through.

I'd ordered a wet vacuum coincidentally so I've tried blowing air through the different drainage holes in the sump to see if that might clear up any blockages. I've also used it to suck water out from the drainage pump (and the side going into the main drainage, not just the tube from the dishwasher) and up from the sump holes too.

I did find a random bit of plastic stuck in the actual drainage pipe and removed that so maybe it's done so damage at some point. There are no visible kinks in the pipe and the water is draining away so I don't think that's the problem.

Despite all of the above, the noise and error code persist! Please could someone help?

I have a Frigidaire oven model # CFEF312AS4 that is heating well beyond the temp.
I set it at 250 and hung a thermometer inside and the red light clicks off at 250 but it continues to heat to 340 degrees. It seems like a mechanical oven probe because I pulled the oven all apart to test resistance on the probe and there are not two wires I can test. Not sure if it’s the probe or a board, seems like the probe is working if the light turns off at the set temp, but why would the oven continue to heat so far beyond set temp. Are there still parts available? Or do I need to purchase a new oven.

I have an LG side by side. Model LRSVS2706S. The cheap plastic catch for the door in door broke. I was unable to get this serviced.

The "part" is discontinued. The part for a proper fix is the entire door assembly. everything gets replaced to fix this aside from the gasket and the glass smaller door. If you call LG they will not be able to fix this for you as officially the part is no more. You can find it out there, but i would argue it's not worth fixing (around $500) correctly. The entire door relies on 1 gram of molded plastic not breaking. Its an insane design.

After my door in door was taped shut for a month while i dealt with LG without resolution, i came up with many idea as to fix this. I finally found a way for about $6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDYPPS2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Cabinet Magnetic Catch, Jiayi 4 Pack Ultra Thin Cabinet Door Magnetic Catch, Drawer Magnets Adhesive, Cabinet Magnetic Latch Closures for Kitchen Closet Drawer Wardrobe Closed Heavy Duty

If was to do this again, i would have painted it off the fridge with high end spray paint. But as i don't really care how it looks, this works.

The kit comes in tiny screws, they work perfectly for this application. I don't think there is anything behind this latch to hit in the fridge that would damage its function.

I wish i had done this first...and spent more than 5 seconds on the job it wouldn't look so sloppy.

Its been on for a month without issue.

I have a frigidaire/electrolux pleb30t8ccb double wall oven. It appears to have a blown thermal fuse/breaker. The elements are fine, but there's no power going to them. Can hear relays clicking on, fan works, elements test OK, but no voltage at the terminals. My only issue is I can't access the control board, relays, or fuse. Do I need to pull the whole oven out of the wall just to replace the fuse, or is there a simpler way to access it?

I’ve got a Frigidaire dishwasher that fills normally for the prewash, then after 10 mins or running it drains. It then doesn’t refill and the circulation pump is trying to run but is making this bad vibrating sound, I’m assuming because it’s running dry.

Then maybe 20-30 mins later it refills with water, works properly, drains again and try’s to circulate dry again.

Any ideas why it fills properly twice during the total cycle but not during those other chunks of time?

Thanks!

Hey fellow diy-ers, I didn't have time to get our usual HVAC guys out this year to check on our furnace before the first fire up. What should I be looking for for a quick inspection to make sure we're good to go? I brushed off and vacuumed up any dust or ash I could find, and there was very little of it. Thanks!

The filter was replaced, and I'll check sole oids for humidifier flow once it's running.

my fridge keeps flickering this orange light every 3 seconds with a clicking sound. it’s usually more of a yellow LED light. not sure what to do!

Dryer plate in the dryer came out of place. I removed it and saw the frame behind it was cracked. Can I remove the broken part and just put the heat plate back ?

Washing machine quits working when it gets to spin cycle.
I took the lid off and put washing machine in test mode and the agitator and spin worked. I took the actuator off the machine and tested ohms and got no reading. Also I cannot move the actuator lever by hand.

I have never worked on washers and I am puzzled if the actuator is really bad since it worked on test mode. Any advice appreciated!

I might as well just get a new washer at this point, first I replaced the shift actuator (twice) the first one was defective then the second one cane in clutch and now it seems as through the transmission isn’t gripping/not making a connection with the agitator because it is not agitating at all. Is this a bad transmission or agitator?

Just moved in so first time using it. At one point screen said “dE”

Works fine until it gets to this point and leaves the clothes clean but overly wet.

Hello, I’ve got an old Kenmore dryer that has decided it want to tap out on me, but I’ve tried to bring it back to the best of my ability. I’ve changed out the heating element and the connection leading to the heating element.( I forgot what the actual name of it is.) It turns on fine and tumbles like it should I’ve cleaned the vent portion and at one point it did get hot and had a whole day of work before I changed any part out. I’ve checked everything with the multimeter and nothing has a short in it. Does anyone have any ideas on what it can be?

Hi! My mom has a GE glass top stove. I need to figure out what is wrong and fix it for her.

The burners get blazing hot and no longer cycle down when you take the pan off the burner. I cook for her and I put the dial on low, but its still the planet Mercury.

I can't seem to find the model number, but searching brought me here to a possible issue with her infinite switch.

How hard is it to fix this? Something the average dork like me can fix?

Are there any possible other faulty things thay can cause burners to do this?

It’s been like this for years now. Wondering the fix.

My refrigerator stopped being cold but the freezer is definitely working. Can make ice and no ice has melted over a week. Door seals are warm. Am I right in thinking that it is likely the fan not blowing/circulating the cold air? I'm thinking test if fan has voltage going to it and if yes and not spinning then fan likely bad if no then probably a circuit board issue?

Water and ice maker and dispenser modes work, selecting crushed ice it beeps and engages the deflector but does not advance the ice auger. The auger works for dispensing whole cubes no problem.

Forgot to add that I've removed the bucket and checked for damage, reset the ice maker 3 times, I can see where the flat rod goes into the opening into the ice maker but there's nothing in it making contact with the end of the rod.

Dishwasher wasn’t In use when it made a gurgling sound. Turned off the breaker. Technician came and said the circulation pump is shot and I’m better off purchasing a new one. This is only 6/7 years old. I want to be sure it’s not fixable before I purchase another. I saw from my research here that one reason for this error is broken water inlet valve. I believe that might be the culprit. When the tap is on, even if I’m not running a cycle, I saw the slow leak. Can somebody please confirm mu suspicion is right and if so, let me know if this is fixable. Is this a DIY project or do I need a plumber? See attached video of the leak. Thanks a lot!!

I live in Ukraine and during Fall and Winter we have electricity shutdowns. Usually we have a schedule like 4h - off, 2h - on.

The problem is that when there is no electricity the temperature drops and when the electricity appeats the fridge starts to beep and keeps making noise until it hits the temperature needed. It can happen multiple times a day and is very annoying when it happens at night.

Is there any way to completely turn off the alarm sound? I read the user manual but haven't found any solution.

I opened the back panel to see what the setup was behind the washer was based on another video highlighting a possible issue with the pulley system of older Samsung washers mine doesn’t have.

I then found this video of what looks like the more modern motor setup without pulleys or belts:

https://youtu.be/nN0LQVcifO4?si=Uozf2nEdZ6IB1X_h

In this video the connector is connected to the wire, where on mine it is severed. Also in the video the plastic raceway for the harness is broken, but on mine it seems in tact. So not sure how the wire broke. It does make me wonder if I should also secure this harness more if the plastic may eventually break.

Not sure the polarity or if that matters, not an electrician or anything close to it. Barely a hobby motorcycle mechanic, and coder by day.

I figure this is some sort of water or speed sensor and is why my washer may be spinning out of control and making very bad noises that I then need to stop it from running at a certain point.