Found this video of the same noise my Viking VMOR205SS believe made by sharp same parts anyone know what this sound is from mine is doing the exact thing I don’t wanna plug it back In

So, i noticed that my washer of maybe 9 months was taking a long time to fill. Upon inspection, I noticed that cold water side was barely flowing. I checked the solenoid and there was 120 Vac present. So, I ordered and replaced the hot/cold inlet valve assembly... simple enough. But even with then new fill valve, I get the F8E1 error code.

But I go to run a cycle, and the cold-water (and hot-water) side runs just fine. Tub fills up and "seems to" to run the cycle. Once the first drain cycle engages, the tub spins up, then slows down and the cold water comes on for several seconds. The water shuts off and the tub spins back up. It does this over and over. It never engages the rinse and spin cycle after the initial wash cycle. So, I'll stop the washer and initiate a second wash with no detergent to at least get the "rinse cycle" i need to get the detergent out of the close.

But... since the tub never fully comes up to speed. The clothes are too wet to put in the dryer. So, I start the Drain and Spin cycle. The drain pump comes on and the tub will eventually start to spin up... it seems like it take a bit of time but it does come up to speed. The issue here is that the tub seems to spin fast, like to fast. It also seems to not want to stop spinning as well. So i usually hit the pause button to stop it.

Before I take a sledge hammer to it, does anyone have an idea on what the issue(s) might be?

Hello collective brain hive I have a GE washer that makes a load buzzing noise when the drain pump is supposed to be draining water. It will drain if the tank is filled to its highest level but not for a medium to lower load. When it does drain it is very loud. Pretty sure I need a new pump, but open to ideas, please hold the snarky ones until a real idea is here, or at least label it as snark!

I identified a leakage coming from the housing below the spraying wings. It comes from a hole that is by design and it drips into a small tub on bottom housing that also looks by design to catch said eater droplets.

Water droplets start only when the pump is running and sometimes it stops leaking for a while even when the pump is running).

Filter is clean, no leakage on water input/outputs connections

Where might this water be coming from and what's the purpose of this tub buffer to hold leaking water? Clearly by design it's allowed to leak a little bit, sometimes perhaps. Currently I'm running an empty 1h 65c cycle and I'm approximating it will fill the tub 2-3 times. Im emptying it with a sponge please help me find the root cause

Hi Everyone!

I have a Whirlpool Electric Oven Model# WFE715H0ES0. I need to remove the control board to get it fixed but am stuck on these connectors. I cannot find the 'hidden tab or lock" to get them out. What's the trick?

Whirlpool Cabrio Washer WTW7300DW2. Hot water inlet valve split last night, sprayed water all over circuit board and inside of panel with lights and buttons. Opened up everything we could open and dried it all out, including blowing out inside of panel and leaving it with fan blowing on it all night.

Question is before we hook everything back up and start it, is there a fuse somewhere, maybe soldered into the circuit board?

I fixed our Whirlpool WRS571CIHZ over the weekend and wanted to share how I did it.

This is a side-by-side model with ice and water dispenser in the freezer door. My general approach may work for other brands and models also.

The problem was the ice maker had stopped making ice and dispensing through the door. I found that several wires that run into the bottom of the door near the hinge were broken. I was motivated to come up with my own fix because the official way of fixing this is to buy a $1000 replacement freezer door.

I took the door off and covered the freezer side with a piece of cardboard I taped in place (pic 1).

Then I opened the harness and added 8 inches of wire to each of the wires in the affected bundle (pic 2). I used butt crimp connectors with built-in heat shrink tubing.

Then I reinstalled the door and ran the wires under the freezer side of the fridge. There's enough space between the floor and the bottom of the fridge to fit the wires if they're laid flat (pic 3).

I covered the wires with split loom and put zipties around each end. This makes things look much neater (pic 4).

The extra wire and different routing create a much less aggressive bend and should last longer than the original routing.

It popped out relatively easily, but when I try to put it back in, no luck. I tried to pull the center pin out slightly, but that was unsuccessful as well.

Is there a name for this type of pin that I can use to locate a replacement?

Incase anyone comes across my post. I replaced the igniter with what was suggested in this group saving me $200. Everything seems to be working for now. Thank you.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/appliancerepair/s/4My8duTZBy

When I turn on my LG Washer I get this error code but Can't seem to find online. Any idea? Machine is 5 months old and runs fine

Please help this has been happening since a glass cup broke I used the dishwasher. Removed all the glass. I switch off the breaker and when I turn it back on the noise continues. I have washed dishes after the glass break incident. How can I start fixing this?

I have this beko oven at my place. I live in a rental flat so i dont know what model this oven is . I’ve always had this problem with it: it kinda overheats, but im not sure if its a normal thing for an oven. I always have trouble with pastries getting burned. I just set the dial to 180c to bake brownies, i placed two different oven thermometers inside it and they both read 300c (yes im sure its celsius not Fahrenheit) . Is this normal ?

My contractor just installed this over the range LG microwave in my new renovated kitchen. Bought at Home Depot and out of the box ready to be installed. I just saw that there is this metal screw inside the microwave. Is this normal? Do I need to remove the screw?

Basically what the title says. I have a Kenmore 400 dryer. It's still able to heat on the high setting, but it will not heat on the low/auto dry cycle. Vent pipe is free of lint.

Model number is 110.69422801

What are the steps to troubleshoot this? I have experience fixing other appliances around the house and I have a multimeter.

Hi everyone. I have an old, early Whirlpool direct-drive washer. I cannot for the life of me find a model number on this thing!

This washer has served me well for over 10 years. I bought it for $50 from a used appliance place. My plan is to use it until I die. So far, I've had to replace the coupler once and the clutch just this past weekend.

This washer has had an issue since I got it, and I finally decided to try and repair it, but I'm totally stumped.

My agitator has two parts (not including the cap). The lower part is bolted onto the driveshaft, but the upper part literally just slides right off. Sometimes, when I'm doing a large load of laundry, the upper agitator will float off, so then the clothes don't get agitated as well, and the agitator gets thrown around during the spin cycle making a terrible noise.

A quick search led me to agitator repair kits with replacement dogs and a cap. However, upon receiving this kit, nothing fit, plus it seems those kits are for washers where the upper agitator only goes in one direction. Mine is coupled to the lower agitator portion and moves backward and forward when agitating.

Looking on the inside of the upper agitator portion, it sure seems like there's a missing part which would keep the upper portion clipped in so it can't float off. However, looking at this parts diagram, I don't see anything!

If anyone has any insight on what might be missing or how this agitator is supposed to work, that would be much appreciated!

PS: The dirt inside the upper agitator is baked into the plastic. I've scrubbed it with degreaser, and nothing comes off. So it's not as dirty as it looks!

Please respond to this this message if you have Crisper Bin Replacement 240337103. Pick up location ideally in Markham, Richmond Hill or Vaughan.

Thank you!

so my washing machine broke its motor clutch, I already took it out but it seems that the mechanism attached to it is also broken, but I can't see because this thing doesn't get out. I already flooded it with wd-40 and I'm scare of forcing it to much.

Hi all, I had the supply line fail due to an old dried up gasket on my kitchen aid dish washer. That got me thinking is there anything else I can change as preventative maintenance? Any other seals or lines I should check or advise before I grab the new hose to put this back into service?

The washer is about 9 years old and I regularly clean out the trap inside and also clean the seals around the door

Every 6-12 months (or so) you the front panel control board on my LSGL6335F gas range dies for a few days. This results in no oven / clock / WiFi features, however the burner igniters work fine. It will randomly come back on and operate with no issue.

We’re on the second main panel - the first was replaced due to a faulty display under warranty. We have done the “typical” 5-15 minute power off, confirmed the power is good, and have the whole house on a surge protector.

Any thoughts? Perhaps a sticky relay in the PCB control board? I can’t seem to find an electrical diagram online to troubleshoot.

Any idea what this could be? MOST days it makes this noise. But of course not the day the tech came out. He opened the dryer up, said everything was fine. Back to making the noise. He's supposed to come back out today and of course it's not making the noise today.

LG DLEX4200W. 10 month old dryer. Doesn't do it when manually turning, only when the dryer is running. Seems like the noise lessons or goes away after it's been running for a bit.

15 year old Whirlpool heat pump dryer (AZA-HP 7771). On startup it squeals and then runs but with a loud rumble/knocking.

What I've checked so far:

Cleaned the blower fan & housing

Belt seated correctly around motor pulley and idler.

With belt off, drum spins freely by hand.

Is this most likely the motor or a worn belt? Worth repairing or time to replace?

Beko DUT36522W installed professionally in June, 2026. Now getting an error code E02 when the dishwasher is filling with water at the beginning of the cycle and before the final rinse.

The code can be cleared by pressing pause for a second and then start again. That clears it immediately and the dishwasher goes on its merry way. I would like to try to fix this without calling for service, even if it’s under warranty. I have already shut it off at the breaker for five minutes and that did not fix it. It is also attached to a stand drain within the wall, as opposed to being attached to the sink in the kitchen.

Thanks for any ideas.

I don't have a display on the front of the stove, and the two right burners don't function. The left two burners do work correctly. Without the display the oven also isn't functional. The photo is of the PC board, this resistor doesn't have continuity as y'all probably could've guessed. I'm unsure if it was just a power surge that toasted it but I don't want to drop money on a new board for that to immediately pop again any help/advice would be appreciated, thank you for reading.

Hello everyone! I have been dealing with this sound coming from my dryer for a while now and I am curious if anyone can identify what the sound could be. It's EXTREMELY loud (especially that bit at the end of the video) and I don't know if it's a belt needing changed or if I just need a brand new dryer. Sometimes the sound does not happen. It will usually start making these noises in the middle of a dry all of a sudden and will not stop till the end.

Thank you in advance! This is a Whirlpool dryer.. I know nothing else about it because it is secondhand from my SIL from years ago.