I just inherited this receiver. One of the channels wasn’t working. I opened it up and dug around and found a blown fuse. What would cause that to happen? I’ve been listening to it for a bit now and it’s been working. Haven’t cranked it yet as I’m worried it may blow again. Is there anything I should be looking at to replace? Thanks

​There is a noticeable power-hum / mains buzz coming directly from the speakers.

​The intensity/volume of the hum changes when I turn the main volume knob (louder at higher volume).

​The hum is present even with no input sources connected.

​Since the hum passes through the preamp/volume control stage, what are the most likely culprits? Could this be failing filter caps in the preamp/power supply rail, a bad ground connection on the volume board, or an issue with the main board?

​Any advice on where to start troubleshooting with a multimeter or schematics would be greatly appreciated!

Hi y'all. I'm writing looking for support on repairing a console record player I picked up last week. This is my first attempted repair on an audio system, and I am aware the big bite I am taking.

The person I bought it off of stated that it was in working order sometime in the last year when they moved. There seems to be a replaced speaker that appears to be from sometime in the 2000s.

THE CURRENT ISSUE: It has a 60hz runaway shortly after turning on and after the tubes have warmed up. Everything I have read online states electrolytic capacitors (per the included diagrams, this would be figure C1). I have yet to put a multimeter to any components as I need a sense of direction where to start. I'm writing here to hopefully find someone willing to provide some support/advice.

One question I have, when replacing the capacitor, would I need a part specific replacement? Or would I be able to splice in modern components and capacitors? I have struggled to find a part specific replication/direct replacement.

If anyone can help me get this playing again, you would be winning me huge brownie points with the lady. She absolutely loves the piece and it fits our style perfectly. Constructive feedback would be amazing. Thanks for your time and support!

Good evening,

I have a Marantz 1070 I need to repair in Paris, would you have any shop recommandations ?

Thank you!

Hello everybody,
I am completely going crazy with this amplifier and need experienced help.
The problem:
I got this Cyrus One amp with a broken channel which starts working when the volume is turned up half the way. It still has a lot of distortion after that.
After opening i saw that the fusible resistor R97 was burnt. I tested all the caps and changed them because there were a lot of them off. After changing the resistor i powered it on and tested everything. It performed really good on the oszilloscope until it started smoking again after turning the volume a little bit up. After that i checked all the power transistors which were good. Now when i turn it up the fusible resistor r 93 also gets way too hot until it smokes. Please help me find the problem.

My Hitachi CX310 doesn't spin the CD properly, like the motor would try to spin but does so in a glitchy way before stopping, and then the screen would go blank. What is happening and how can I fix this?? It was still working 3 days ago before I went on a short trip but suddenly stopped.

I am finding my eyesight with glasses just isn't good enough to see small components and solder points. Anyone have suggestions on a practicable option for improving this? I am a hobbyist repairer so not looking to spend hundreds on a microscope but any suggestions welcome .

Title: AMC CD6B — replacement tray belt needed
I have an AMC CD6B CD player, and the loading tray belt slips when opening or closing the tray.
I’m looking for the correct replacement belt and would appreciate help with any of the following:
Original belt part number
Belt diameter or inside circumference
Belt thickness and cross-section (square, round, or flat)
A confirmed compatible replacement belt
Service manuals, repair guides, or links to previous repairs
I’d prefer to order from Amazon Canada if possible.
Has anyone repaired an AMC CD6B or identified the correct belt size for this model?
Thanks for any help!

I have a 1986 talking big bird with the tapes and books.
The tapes are normal for big birds voice but the music is distorted in the background. I have run a tape cleaner through it and put good quality batteries in it but it makes no difference.
Anyone have any idea what I can do to fix the distortion?

Got the itch to fix some vintage audio equipment, so I scored the Grundig off ebay for 20€. Seller said it is quiet and has some noise.

The inside is prestine, no dust. That diode was the only sus thing I could find. So we'll see if swapping that fixes it.

Good day, I recently snagged up a STR-GX909ES off of ebay, the left channel was working but now having intermittent issues, I noticed another post about that same issue and will check the grounds on the surround board, but the main issue seems to be no audio output from the center channel in Dolby Surround mode, either Wide, Normal or 3 channel, I don't have the rears hooked up as of yet but I will be getting some new speakers tomorrow so I will hook all 5 up and see what I get. any suggestions on what to try?

Found a pair of JBL G500 speakers in my neighborhood while walking the dogs. The speakers look perfect with no deterioration of foam surrounds. They sound pretty good (to my ears with my hearing aids) but the bottom woofer on one of them has a problem. at higher volume the bottom woofer sounds distorted with a fuzzy crackling sound. When I press in on the woofer cone, there is a rubbing sound from within. the upper woofer is silent when pushed. the rubbing is present no matter where i PUSH.......12....3......6.......9 O"CLOCK. any clues on troubleshooting or repair. I will remove the speaker tomorrow to check it out. Thanks

Picked this up at an estate sale yesterday, probably evened out to $10 or so. Since I got it, I’ve cleaned the laser very well and that eliminated most of the skipping that initially happened - however if I play something that isn’t in absolutely perfect shape it has a tendency to skip just a little bit on occasion, to the point where it’s a hindrance. I’m not inclined to believe it’s a laser issue as it’ll seek tracks and load the table of contents very quickly even on super scratched discs. I’ve tested these discs in an ‘89 Sharp player and multiple different Xboxes I own and it plays them just fine. I saw a mention of laser rails being a possibility but otherwise I can’t figure it out.

I bought a used pair of **Sven SPS-702** speakers. I've been using them for over a month, but today the active speaker started glitching. Sometimes, while I'm listening to music, watching a video, or playing a game (especially GTA IV), the active speaker suddenly cuts out. This happens no matter what I do, but the passive speaker keeps working perfectly. When the sound disappears, the LED indicator on the active speaker stays lit, and the passive one keeps playing just as good as before. What could be the problem?

Recently started a vintage audio repair shop. Until now I have been able to find most service manuals and schematic diagrams online. At the moment I'm struggeling to find a service manual for an Onkyo Super Server Stereo P-3090 pre amp where the schematic diagram is actually readable.

Does anybody know how or where to get a better quality then online availabe?

Hi all, I have several transistor dead.

I have to replace them, I'm a newbie and I use IA to find a solution.

I tried 3 differents IA and they give me differents replies.

Could a pro give me the right transistors to replace this

TO220 :

• 2SB596
• 2SD526

TO92:

• 2SA697
• 2SC1211

Thanks a lot

nach längerem Suchen eine einfache Lösung gefunden um die volle Funktionalität der Soundtouch Geräte wieder herzustellen.

Was brauche ich dazu?

Nur meinen Heimrouter ( Fritzbox)

Wie gehe ich vor ?

In Menü von der Fritzbox aktiviere ich den Media-Server. ( Häkchen setzen),

dort gehe ich auf den Reiter Internetradio und füge Internetadressen meiner Radiosenden hinzu.

Diese finde ich ebenfalls im Internet.( Achtung Bose spielt aber nur das Format.M3u sauber ab.)

Dann die Soundtouch App öffnen und dort die Fritzbox suchen und auswählen

dort in den Internetradioreiter gehen einen Sender auswählen - Stream auswählen

dann läuft der Sender auf der Box . Nun die entsprechende Senderspeichertaste auf der Box solange drücken bis Sender kurz weggeht .

Jetzt ist die Stations-Taste mit dem Sender verheiratet und lässt sich auch ohne Handy bedienen, direkt an der Box oder mit der Fernbedienung.

Das bei all deinen Boxen wiederholen.

Letztendlich übernimmt deine Fritzbox die Aufgabe des Servers von Bose, der ja bekanntlicher Weise abgeschaltet ist.

Multiroom geht sowieso noch.

Ich hoffe nur das viele ihre doch tollen Boxen nicht für billig Geld verklimpert haben aus Frust.

Es gibt immer eine Lösung !

Hello all, I am trying to run one MC58 in bridge mode from a CR16 and cannot get the bridged speakers to play. I would like help to confirm the correct wiring for this combination.

Equipment:
CR16 multizone controller
MC58, all four pairs set to Bridge, intended as four bridged channels
Zone 1: MC275, not using the MC58
Zones 2 and 3: two B&W AM-1s each, so each zone needs two bridged MC58 channels
Zone 4: no speakers

Sources: MP100 on AUX, MB50 on CD2
Trigger chain currently: CR16 to MP100 to MC58 to MC275, using 1/8-inch power control
7-pin DIN from the CR16 multi-channel DIN, the jack beside the DB25, to the MC58 MULTI-ROOM jack
DB25 is not connected

Audio is on the odd RCA inputs: 1, 3, 5, and 7
MC58 rear switch is Remote, front power switch is on.

What the MC58 actually does:
CR16 Zone 2 on lights only the 3/4 pair
CR16 Zone 3 on lights only the 5/6 pair
CR16 Zone 4 on lights the 7/8 pair, even though Zone 4 has no audio output connected
CR16 Zone 1 on does not light the 1/2 pair. Zone 1 audio goes to the MC275 only
With the DIN unplugged, the logo comes on at startup but no pair lamps light, including with the 1/8-inch trigger connected
Result: a bridged stereo zone needs two powered pairs, but each CR16 zone enables only one pair, and 1/2 never enables. The bridged speakers have no sound.

Any thoughts are appreciated as I can’t get this to work. Incidentally, all the equipment is in a front load only audio rack so it’s quite difficult to remove and readjust..

These PW-2522BM woofers have stiff surrounds, thus very little movement. I've been advised to apply some brake fluid. Is this wise?

Advice appreciated

I’ve just moved flat from the U.K. to Spain and in the move my Denon receiver looks like it took a bit of a whack, the front panel has a dent etc. I went to turn it on and it boots before going onto the blinking red light issue after a couple of seconds. I’ve downloaded the repair manual and gone through the debug process and when I disconnect the speaker board the amp stays on and it displays that the previous fault was an ASO protection which apparently means there is a short in the signal path, such as speaker wires touching but it happens even when no speakers are connected. Does anyone have experience with these in the past? The fuses are fine. The PSU is producing the correct voltages when the rest of the pcbs are disconnected so I don’t think it’s the PSU issue some other owners have had. I’ve tested the transistors and resistors on the amp board and I don’t think any are off, the parallel pairs are measuring between 0.2 and 0.3 for parrallel .47Rs and the transistors are doing 0.45-0.65V between the legs. Some of the resistors do have some discolouration though that they might have got a bit hot at some point. My feeling is it is a loose connection somewhere but I can’t see it and I’m not too keen on going further into the big hdmi/power amp pcb stack as I don’t think I’ll get it back together. Is it worth me replacing the resistors in case that is the issue? Any other tips before start removing components?

I have an RCA RS2534 5-disc changer stereo that is not reading discs. I’ve cleaned the lens and lubricated the rails, but still nothing. This is a 25-year-old stereo, so I’m not sure what replacement I can get, if any.

hello i don't know if this is the correct subreddit but i have a question can this adapter works with this radio is a sony hcd bx20i

Hey! I’ve got to replace 1 (!) knob on an old Yamaha mixer, but am struggling to find what the correct name for the type of knob required is. Doesn’t bother me if the replacement doesn’t look similar, it’s purely so the control can function. Any pointers appreciated, I think it’s a D shaft but I’m not having any luck with what to search for the type of design with the two tier style.

How do I access these speaker panels. I see a bunch of screws but we can only get to half of them because of the drop down component compartment on the right side. My mom wants to change the speakers and fix the fabric but we cant tell how they are attached.

My girlfriend has a single Pioneer DJ VM-50 that she runs off her DDJ-REV7. It suddenly stopped producing any sound at all.

The power LED still behaves normally:
It goes red when it drops into auto-standby
It switches back to white when the REV7 wakes up or a track plays.

So it seems to detect the signal and power on, but nothing comes out of either driver.
What we've ruled out:

No hiss at all, even with the volume knob maxed and an ear right against both the woofer and tweeter

The REV7 works fine through headphones

Tried different REV7 outputs, with Master and Booth levels up

Swapped cable ends and wiggled the connections at both ends. No crackle, no sound.
Checked the volume and the settings on the back of the speaker

A shop quoted $300 to fix it, which is close to the cost of a new one.

Honestly, we're pretty new to this and don't really know how to go about diagnosing it. We're both pretty handy with this kind of thing though, so we'd love to try fixing it ourselves if it's realistic. Is this something we could DIY? Any pointers on where to start would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks in advance!