Just put this SRAM Rival eTap AXS Front Derailleur on my new QuickPro GR:ONE with 48/35 chain rings. Clearance between the cage and large chain ring is tight, and sometimes it will catch the top of a tooth as it shifts either down or up. It's also seemingly as high as it can go on this frame. Everything I'm reading says it shouldn't have issues, but maybe I just don't have the right info. Any ideas?

I recently got this Performance Focus road bike for a pretty good deal and I honestly don't know much about the history of the frame or the brand in general. I'm not new to cycling but this is my first road bike which I bought to commute to work to save money on gas and I am absolutely loving it. It is super fun to ride, has some pretty decent components, and I'm currently experimenting on saddles at the moment as well as tweaking the fit of the bike before I start committing to the commute.

I did have a couple of questions with my main one being dealing with rust. I've found a bit of "surface" rust around a majority of the lugs and a couple other spots here and there (photos don't help much) and maybe I'm just a little paranoid but I would want to clean up as much of it as possible. Do you think I should strip the bike down to bare metal to get a good grasp of what I'm dealing with or maybe use some wire brushes and a little bit of paint stripper around the areas of concern? I would also love to highlight the lugs on this bike since the paint, as cool as it may look, hides all the details in the frame so I'm wondering if anyone has any good suggestions about that. Maybe sanding the surface of the lugs to bare metal or painting them a different color? Lastly, I found these weird metal nipples on the headtube and the right seat stay and I was wondering what they were. Are they from the manufacturing process?

I very much appreciate any help I can get and if you have questions for me I will do my best to answer them.

I hit a rock and my fork is scratched

Hello all,

I have a Look 566 that is missing the headset and bearings. Does anyone know where I can find one or have one they have for sale?

Working on a resto mod of a mid 90s trek mtb. Had to replace both front shifters, bottom bracket, and rear derailleur. The rear derailleur attaches directly to frame, and currently with no
Chain installed it won’t clear the largest gear when shifting towards the frame. Without digging myself a deeper hole will it clear once I install the chain or did I make a mistake? I think one of the issues is the sprockets in the new derailleur are bigger.

Working on a customer’s BMX with an Odyssey F25 fork and a new headset/compression cap setup for a gyro conversion. Running into a frustrating issue with the headset preload.
The compression cap threads into the fork steerer and initially engages fine, but as I tighten it to preload the headset, it reaches the unthreaded Easy-Cut groove inside the steerer and slips/jumps before I can eliminate the headset play.
A few details:
Odyssey F25 fork with internal threads
New headset and compression cap
Approximately 5–6 mm of spacers
Only trimmed about 4 mm off the steerer
Cap initially engages several threads
Slips at roughly 3–5 Nm, before proper preload
Tried different spacer configurations with the same result
Can reproduce the slipping even with the fork out of the bike
The issue seems to be that the compression cap reaches the interrupted thread section at the Easy-Cut groove and loses engagement.
I could potentially shorten the steerer further and eliminate the spacers, but I’d rather not unnecessarily cut down a customer’s fork, especially without knowing whether that would actually solve the issue.
Has anyone experienced this with Odyssey F25 forks? Is this a known limitation of the Easy-Cut design, a compatibility issue with certain compression caps, or possibly a defective cap/fork?
Also curious whether anyone knows of a compatible compression cap with longer or continuous thread engagement that avoids this problem.
Appreciate any insight!

I have a 20+ year-old, Orbe carbon fiber frame, and the headset has been making a lot of noise I pulled it apart and cleaned off the bearings just to make sure that they seem OK, which they do. However, when putting the headset back together, I’m wondering if this should be piloted onto the bearing or not. Maybe it doesn’t matter since the post of the Fork will center it up.

Got my brand new state 6061 black label v3 assembled and day of felt slipping of some sort when pushing hard, tightened my straps and didn't feel it again. Today I was riding and felt it once and my crank tore right off.

I noticed the bolt was over greased with grease on the bottom of the bolt face and the threads were mangled and stripped. What happened? I got bad vibes from the bike shop when they didn't tighten my cog properly so I assume they stripped my crank bolt and didn't say anything about it and it made the crank spindle teeth go out of square and eventually brake off. Any help would be appreciated. Crank set is the SRAM S100.

Thanks!

I’ve got an older bike on my indoor trainer and since I got a new bike it basically never comes off anymore. It was working perfectly outdoors with a 11-30t rear cassette on a set of HED carbon clinchers.

Now that I’ve moved it onto my trainer the shifting is off. I’ve tightened the barrel adjuster as much as I can but it still isn’t shifting properly. I’m finding that I have to shift down twice to get a harder gear and then up once for it to go into the gear I’m attempting to use.

It’s a 11sp Dura Ace 9100 RD/FD with Rotor 50/34 chainrings and an 11-30t cassette.

Any tips for getting this thing back to buttery smooth shifting? Should I back off the barrel adjuster and tighten the cable at the pinch bolt? If so which gear should I have the bike in when doing this?

​

Recently got a PES P515 on sale at Amazon. Installed today and there is lateral play in the spindle, I can slide it in and out a bit.

Shimano 105. I reused the Shimano chain rings. Bb86. I read that it's supposed to be direct fit for Shimano

Was I supposed take the spacers off the old 105 cranks arms and add them to the new pes ones? Looks like there is one on the drive side and non drive side.

When I ride the bike, it won't shift to 3rd gear in the front, but when I flip the bike and go through the gears, it shifts to 3rd. Am I not going fast enough when on the bike? Thanks.

Edit: The bike is an old 90s MTB that has recently been serviced by LBS, so new cables and new rear derailleur. I brought in my own brake and shift levers and I recall the front derailleur shifter not shifting to 3rd, but the shop said they would fix it, and they seemed to have since it was shifting from 1 to 3 before.

Hey folks!

Just upgraded the other half's bike to a 2x10 GRX400 setup from Sora. Bought an FSA Tempo Adventure crankset that everything online suggests works for 9-11speed, but the chain is just dropping between the chainrings when changing down to the little ring (not too surprisingly, it doesn't happen changing up).

I've been working on road and MTB setups for years and the GRX has a slightly funkier design than I've worked on before, but I've checked stuff on YouTube and as best I can tell it's all set up correctly (also shifting fine except the dropping).

Have I been sent the wrong cranks or something or am I missing something obvious? Any help/advice much appreciated.

I have 105 levers from 2021. Yesterday I had problems with the right/rear/cassette shifter, the little handle that shifts “up” / smaller cog - it wasn’t hitting the shift clutch consistently and was just moving loose without engaging the shift. Would miss two shifts and then would hit the third one - so it wasn’t like I hit the big lever by accident and disengaged the clutch for one shift. But sometimes it wouldn’t miss a shift at all.

No problem with the big lever. No problem with the left brifter.

This started yesterday. Only real difference in yesterday’s ride is that the temps dived into the upper 40s for the first time since last winter. Had a bike fit recently that moved the shifter position and the handlebar position very slightly, but it’s been that way for 2 months without a shifting miss.

What could cause this?

I have a bike with a Deore m780 set with 11s, the left arm broke after an accident (the thread was damaged) and I am going crazy finding out about compatibility for a cheap used replacement...

Could I replace the whole crankset by a 12s including chainrings?

If I get a 12s (m8100) without chainrings, are the chainrings interchangeable?

If I get a hollowtech-II let arm, like the m8100, can I just replace the left arm?

Hi, I have TRP Spyre flat mount brakes, i want use them on a corner bar, but i don't know wich model of short pull levers i have to buy to have the best possible stop.

If the best option is Paul levers, i would like the second best option.....

Many thanks

I am looking at an old wheelset. it’s a 622 road bike set with 20mm (!) tires.

I try to remove the cassette / freewheel. but I have no clue what this is. there is no lock ring nor does my freewheel puller fit.
I have a hunch that it is a cassette hub with a cog missing - but I would like to ask people who know their stuff (that is you :).

and if it is: how do I remove it?

I've gone from 160 mm rotors to 180, front and back. Front went fine. The problem is the rear. I've searched around and discovered I needed the QM-41 adapter by the manufacturer website. So I got it. As you can see in the images, there's a sizable gap between the adapter and caliper when the caliper is on the rotor as intended. When I bolt the adapter to the caliper and keep the bolts from the adapter to the frame lose, the caliper sits way too high on the rotor itself. Is the orientation of the adapter wrong or is it the wrong adapter all together? I have the QM-12 on order since it won't have the caliper sitting as high, but I'm still not sure about the horizontal gap. It's worth noting that, when I had the 160 mm rotors on with the factory adapter, everything was fine, so I know nothing is bent out of shape with the new hardware. Any advice is appreciated.

Hi, my right pedal came loose when I was riding and the first 2-3 threads in the crank arm are stripped

I went to my local LBS shop and the mechanical said it'll be fine and screwed in my new look Pedals, but I'm still a bit worried

Any one have first hand experience with this? Many thanks

Hi everyone,

I'm in the midst of changing some parts on my everyday singlespeed bike. But unfortunately I have run into a problem that I struggle to solve. With the new parts that I'm trying to fit the bolts (or whatever their proper english name is) are a bit to long causing the front chainring to be far to loose for use.

Does anyone here know what the proper english (or danish) term is for that kind of screw/bolt? And does anyone have suggestions to where I might find 5 shorter ones in a quality that can withstand winter in Denmark?

Fingers crossed that someone here can share some knowledge.

Tech who installed it said it was all good when I brought it back after noticing. Hoping for a second opinion 😀

Hi everyone,

What type or brand of tire levers would you recommend for replacing tires on electric and standard city bikes on a regular basis?

I’m currently building up my tool collection as I plan to start working on bicycles as a side business in the near future. Since e-bike tires and tight-fitting city bike tires can be quite tough to work with, I’m looking for levers that are durable, comfortable to use, and won't damage rims.

Any advice or personal favorites would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Troubleshooting a dead Dura-Ace RD-9070 (11-speed Di2):

• Symptoms: Rear derailleur stopped responding entirely.
• Diagnostics performed:
  1. Bike shop connected directly to the RD port with an SM-PCE interface and independent EW-SD50 wire, bypassing frame wiring, battery (BT-DN110), and junction boxes. Derailleur failed to appear or broadcast hardware ID in E-Tube Project.
  2. Tested front derailleur on the exact same diagnostic interface and lead; FD connected and passed instantly.
  3. Inspected female port: central post and internal contact traces are clean, straight, and show no verdigris or corrosion.
• Questions:
  1. Is there any known bench procedure to revive an uncommunicative 9070 logic board, or is the CAN transceiver/microcontroller definitively dead?
  2. Replacing with an Ultegra RD-R8050-SS: with ST-9070 shifters and a CS-9000 11-28T cassette, are there any known firmware version conflict traps between older 9070 levers and the R8050 RD during the E-Tube sync?
  3. If not, I'm looking for a working Shimano Ultegra RD-R8050-SS to replace it. Any idea where the best place to source a decent condition used one for my 2016 Cervelo C5.

I have an old Carrera Subway I have been riding for 1 year, but it has now started to make a loud creaking/clicking noise when pedalled under load. There is no noise when the bike is freewheeling or when pedalling slower than the wheel is turning. I can also wobble the cassette side to side by hand and it makes a similar noise.

The gears are indexed correctly and the chain is not rubbing, the lock ring is not loose by hand but I don't have the proper tool to either tighten or loosen it, the axle is centred and rotates smoothly by hand with no noise or feel of any resistance or pitting.

Any idea what the cause is?