Hey gang,

I picked up an old (late 90s) Raleigh Serengeti thats been sitting.

The shifters were completely gummed up, but came back with a disassembly and good cleaning.

The bike shifts well now, but the gears are completely unaligned.

Position #3 on the shifter window has the chain in granny gear and position #8 only gets it into the 2nd smallest cog.

Before I start adjusting the derailleur, I thought id ask the group if the (non replaceable) derailleur hanger looks bent.

If so, am I ok to bend it back in place, or will that just cause more problems?

Hi, I just bought a bike from a friend who has roughly the same build as me and i'd like to get it fitted properly.

How good of a job can you do at home?

I know very little about this so forgive me if this is a common or daft question.

Also my bike has a fixed seatpost, could i cut it down myself if necessary or is this a job for professionals? Thanks!

I’m running SRAM Axs D1 derailleur/shifters with shimano cassette and chain etc. Can anyone recommended correct B Limit gap (mm) for 11-34 cassette? Thanks

I replaced the front thru-axle on my BMC Teammachine (119 mm) with a Van Rysel RCR axle (118 mm). It screws in smoothly and fits well.

Is it safe to keep riding with the 1 mm difference?

Hi!

A few days ago I received my new 2025 Lapierre Crosshill CF which I ordered through an online shop. The bike was already almost ready to ride when it arrived so I just adjusted the handle bar and was basically done.

However, there is one issue I noticed: after wrapping the bar and playing with the bike a bit I noticed that the fork / headset has 1 or 2 mm play at the bottom bearing when pulling the front brake and pushing the handlebar back and forth. I do trust the online shop to build the bike correctly but I wanted to check it to be sure.

Since I do some bike work myself I took a look at the bearings etc. and saw some, to me, odd things:

• The fork doesn't have a crown race.
• The bottom bearing doesn't sit flush on the fork. In the picture you can see the furthest down the bearing will go. There is like a 5 mm gap between bearing and the top of the fork where a crown race would go.
• When everything is put back together the compression ring sits quite high and there is rather large gap between the top cap and the top of the head tube.

Also when putting it back together again there is only a small gap the bottom headtube and fork.

Does anyone know if all theses things are to be expected and normal on a modern gravel bike?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can add some information or give some guidance on this topic!

When I went to undo my rear wheel to move the flip chip, I accidentally undid the derailleur holder in the process. I thought I reset it and everything was fine on the stand but when I took it for a ride again it jammed up. Both the derailleur and the silver line move together when I move the derailleur back and forth in its housing (it’s quite firm to move). Any suggestions ?

So I was doing a stem upgrade on my bike. Started tightening the top bolt and this happened. Is this fixable or do I need to buy a new fork?

So, I purchased a used bike and got it serviced (new chain, tires, cables, new rear derailleur and hanger). Yesterday I went riding with my gf and after a few hours I noticed that non-drive crank arm getting loose... I rode to my car, while stopping every once in a while to tighten it with my fingers. Got the tool from my car and tightened it pretty well and went for another short ride. It came loose again pretty soon.

My questions are:

1.) What is the damage? Do I just need a new crank arm or is the spindle damaged as well?

2.) Is the bike shop in the wrong for not checking the torque on all the bolts?

Thanks to everyone replying and sorry for a long post.

I’m a complete noob so I need to be talked to like I’m 5

The pawls are stuck on my freesky Ranger pro

Hello all,

I have a Look 566 that is missing the headset and bearings. Does anyone know where I can find one or have one they have for sale?

I’ve got an older bike on my indoor trainer and since I got a new bike it basically never comes off anymore. It was working perfectly outdoors with a 11-30t rear cassette on a set of HED carbon clinchers.

Now that I’ve moved it onto my trainer the shifting is off. I’ve tightened the barrel adjuster as much as I can but it still isn’t shifting properly. I’m finding that I have to shift down twice to get a harder gear and then up once for it to go into the gear I’m attempting to use.

It’s a 11sp Dura Ace 9100 RD/FD with Rotor 50/34 chainrings and an 11-30t cassette.

Any tips for getting this thing back to buttery smooth shifting? Should I back off the barrel adjuster and tighten the cable at the pinch bolt? If so which gear should I have the bike in when doing this?

​

Recently got a PES P515 on sale at Amazon. Installed today and there is lateral play in the spindle, I can slide it in and out a bit.

Shimano 105. I reused the Shimano chain rings. Bb86. I read that it's supposed to be direct fit for Shimano

Was I supposed take the spacers off the old 105 cranks arms and add them to the new pes ones? Looks like there is one on the drive side and non drive side.

Working on a resto mod of a mid 90s trek mtb. Had to replace both front shifters, bottom bracket, and rear derailleur. The rear derailleur attaches directly to frame, and currently with no
Chain installed it won’t clear the largest gear when shifting towards the frame. Without digging myself a deeper hole will it clear once I install the chain or did I make a mistake? I think one of the issues is the sprockets in the new derailleur are bigger.

I recently got this Performance Focus road bike for a pretty good deal and I honestly don't know much about the history of the frame or the brand in general. I'm not new to cycling but this is my first road bike which I bought to commute to work to save money on gas and I am absolutely loving it. It is super fun to ride, has some pretty decent components, and I'm currently experimenting on saddles at the moment as well as tweaking the fit of the bike before I start committing to the commute.

I did have a couple of questions with my main one being dealing with rust. I've found a bit of "surface" rust around a majority of the lugs and a couple other spots here and there (photos don't help much) and maybe I'm just a little paranoid but I would want to clean up as much of it as possible. Do you think I should strip the bike down to bare metal to get a good grasp of what I'm dealing with or maybe use some wire brushes and a little bit of paint stripper around the areas of concern? I would also love to highlight the lugs on this bike since the paint, as cool as it may look, hides all the details in the frame so I'm wondering if anyone has any good suggestions about that. Maybe sanding the surface of the lugs to bare metal or painting them a different color? Lastly, I found these weird metal nipples on the headtube and the right seat stay and I was wondering what they were. Are they from the manufacturing process?

I very much appreciate any help I can get and if you have questions for me I will do my best to answer them.

Working on a customer’s BMX with an Odyssey F25 fork and a new headset/compression cap setup for a gyro conversion. Running into a frustrating issue with the headset preload.
The compression cap threads into the fork steerer and initially engages fine, but as I tighten it to preload the headset, it reaches the unthreaded Easy-Cut groove inside the steerer and slips/jumps before I can eliminate the headset play.
A few details:
Odyssey F25 fork with internal threads
New headset and compression cap
Approximately 5–6 mm of spacers
Only trimmed about 4 mm off the steerer
Cap initially engages several threads
Slips at roughly 3–5 Nm, before proper preload
Tried different spacer configurations with the same result
Can reproduce the slipping even with the fork out of the bike
The issue seems to be that the compression cap reaches the interrupted thread section at the Easy-Cut groove and loses engagement.
I could potentially shorten the steerer further and eliminate the spacers, but I’d rather not unnecessarily cut down a customer’s fork, especially without knowing whether that would actually solve the issue.
Has anyone experienced this with Odyssey F25 forks? Is this a known limitation of the Easy-Cut design, a compatibility issue with certain compression caps, or possibly a defective cap/fork?
Also curious whether anyone knows of a compatible compression cap with longer or continuous thread engagement that avoids this problem.
Appreciate any insight!

When I ride the bike, it won't shift to 3rd gear in the front, but when I flip the bike and go through the gears, it shifts to 3rd. Am I not going fast enough when on the bike? Thanks.

Edit: The bike is an old 90s MTB that has recently been serviced by LBS, so new cables and new rear derailleur. I brought in my own brake and shift levers and I recall the front derailleur shifter not shifting to 3rd, but the shop said they would fix it, and they seemed to have since it was shifting from 1 to 3 before.

Just put this SRAM Rival eTap AXS Front Derailleur on my new QuickPro GR:ONE with 48/35 chain rings. Clearance between the cage and large chain ring is tight, and sometimes it will catch the top of a tooth as it shifts either down or up. It's also seemingly as high as it can go on this frame. Everything I'm reading says it shouldn't have issues, but maybe I just don't have the right info. Any ideas?

I have a 20+ year-old, Orbe carbon fiber frame, and the headset has been making a lot of noise I pulled it apart and cleaned off the bearings just to make sure that they seem OK, which they do. However, when putting the headset back together, I’m wondering if this should be piloted onto the bearing or not. Maybe it doesn’t matter since the post of the Fork will center it up.

I have a bike with a Deore m780 set with 11s, the left arm broke after an accident (the thread was damaged) and I am going crazy finding out about compatibility for a cheap used replacement...

Could I replace the whole crankset by a 12s including chainrings?

If I get a 12s (m8100) without chainrings, are the chainrings interchangeable?

If I get a hollowtech-II let arm, like the m8100, can I just replace the left arm?

Got my brand new state 6061 black label v3 assembled and day of felt slipping of some sort when pushing hard, tightened my straps and didn't feel it again. Today I was riding and felt it once and my crank tore right off.

I noticed the bolt was over greased with grease on the bottom of the bolt face and the threads were mangled and stripped. What happened? I got bad vibes from the bike shop when they didn't tighten my cog properly so I assume they stripped my crank bolt and didn't say anything about it and it made the crank spindle teeth go out of square and eventually brake off. Any help would be appreciated. Crank set is the SRAM S100.

Thanks!

Hi, I have TRP Spyre flat mount brakes, i want use them on a corner bar, but i don't know wich model of short pull levers i have to buy to have the best possible stop.

If the best option is Paul levers, i would like the second best option.....

Many thanks

I have 105 levers from 2021. Yesterday I had problems with the right/rear/cassette shifter, the little handle that shifts “up” / smaller cog - it wasn’t hitting the shift clutch consistently and was just moving loose without engaging the shift. Would miss two shifts and then would hit the third one - so it wasn’t like I hit the big lever by accident and disengaged the clutch for one shift. But sometimes it wouldn’t miss a shift at all.

No problem with the big lever. No problem with the left brifter.

This started yesterday. Only real difference in yesterday’s ride is that the temps dived into the upper 40s for the first time since last winter. Had a bike fit recently that moved the shifter position and the handlebar position very slightly, but it’s been that way for 2 months without a shifting miss.

What could cause this?

I've gone from 160 mm rotors to 180, front and back. Front went fine. The problem is the rear. I've searched around and discovered I needed the QM-41 adapter by the manufacturer website. So I got it. As you can see in the images, there's a sizable gap between the adapter and caliper when the caliper is on the rotor as intended. When I bolt the adapter to the caliper and keep the bolts from the adapter to the frame lose, the caliper sits way too high on the rotor itself. Is the orientation of the adapter wrong or is it the wrong adapter all together? I have the QM-12 on order since it won't have the caliper sitting as high, but I'm still not sure about the horizontal gap. It's worth noting that, when I had the 160 mm rotors on with the factory adapter, everything was fine, so I know nothing is bent out of shape with the new hardware. Any advice is appreciated.