Radiomaster Zorro 4in1 mainboard. The 4in1 module has 4 cables But the Zooro mainboard still has 5 connectors, it seems like it can be directly installed with the internal ELRS module which has 5 cables.

I built a 4S analog drone using the beta fpv Pavo20 frame. The footage you're watching was recorded with a RunCam Thumb Pro 4K XV.

As you can see, I tried pushing it a bit faster than usual. However, right after that sharp direction change near the end, the drone seemed to lose control, snapped at an angle, and I wasn't able to recover it before crashing because I was too close to the ground.

Does it have something to do with the fact that I have ducted fans?

I'm using standard betaflight PIDs, I just changed the rates (I use soft rates).

I would like to never lose control of my drone because this time I was above a safe terrain, and I would be so sad if a crash like this will happen on a forest or over water.

Thank you in advance.

I'm kind of new to posting on reddit so i don't know how the mods approval is done..

Solved. I had an airplane model loaded on my radio. I created an empty model on the TX12, and everything started working as it should.

The radio is a TX12.

In the video, the final movement is an input on the roll stick. As you can see, for some reason it affects the throttle, and it doesn't even reach the full range from the center—even though I’m pushing the stick all the way over.

https://reddit.com/link/1x8yitx/video/m2c0bjcty6wh1/player

My backyard is only this messy 80% of the time..
Did this with FPV Lap Timer on Android/iOS

Haven't flown for a month since something weird was happening with my drone and I thought my solderjoints were garbage (I did the best I could with 40year old iron dont ask why I kept that hand me down) so got a new one really lovely in fact for chinese brand and as soon as I took the top left motor off its left wire was disconnected so I soldered that took it to fly it was great I remembered why I love the hobby and then why I hate it as I crash, antenna pops off, I find it, head home and whent to put it back on this time with e6000 saw this and my first thought was "ah shit here we go again" now I've got iron in hand and will commence the repair

Hello everyone, I'm relatively new to FPV (4-5 months) and I've been mainly flying DJI O4 Pro and Vista. I am currently looking to move to analog because of "gear fear". Vista is kinda cheap but you can only look at obtaining them second-hand, O4 Pros on the other hand is kinda expensive to go full send and practice with. (Might not be expensive to you but im from a 3rd world country)

Does the HDZERO global shop do black friday sale? If so how much less were their goggles 2 last year?

I know it kinda defeats the purpose of going to analog for cheap and easy to buy parts but I was thinking goggles dont break because it is with you, not the drone and if i can get for cheaper during a sale, then why not lol

It's really not that far ahead of the skyzone O4x pro in terms of price so i thought why not get that and i might try racing soon.

EDIT: One more reason that im moving to analog is the latency.

Bought a tx15 max, figured I whould upgrade elrs from 3.5.6 on my reciever to 4.1 and also on the transmitter. Flashed both also replaced lua on the transmitter, everything seems to work but they wont bind, same uid githash, also tried binding it traditionally and nothing. I whould appriciate someone s help troubleshooting.

Air65 Freestyle Edition motors are too fragile. This is the result of two months of indoor flying, with mostly very light crashes.

Update:

My flying style isn't slow, but it's not anything crazy either. It's mostly like racing, just a bit slower.

Still running motors at a cap of 75% with about a .5 throttle. expo. I’m definitely getting better, but gotta get to work on my quick turns.. just still scared of plummeting to the ground. 😅

Hey all, looking for help with a Pocket that won't turn on.

What happened: I left it powered on in sim mode and walked away without realizing. When I came back it was dead, and it hasn't booted since. It was working fine before that.

Symptoms:

- Screen stays completely dark when I hold the power button. No boot sequence, no sound.

- With the arm switch in the armed position, the green arm LED lights up only while I'm holding the power button, but nothing else happens.

- With USB-C plugged in, the red charge LED comes on, but the radio doesn't boot.

- It has never booted on USB power alone.

- My PC doesn't seem to see it. I checked Device Manager (with hidden devices shown), uninstalled an old stale "STM32 BOOTLOADER" ghost entry, replugged the radio, and nothing new appeared.

What I've tried:

1. New batteries. I measured about 4V at the battery terminals inside the radio, so the batteries and terminals are fine.
2. Charging over USB-C. The red LED comes on, but it still won't boot.
3. Bootloader combo (both horizontal trims toward center while pressing power), with and without USB connected. No change.
4. Removed the SD card. No change.
5. A different USB-C cable + different port, not using a dock. No change.
6. Opened the case and disconnected the RTC battery for about 10 minutes to reset the board. No change.

The radio hasn't been dropped or exposed to water, and I haven't modified or flashed anything.

Since it won't boot on batteries or USB and doesn't enumerate over USB at all, I'm leaning toward a hardware fault: the power button or latch circuit, the main board, or the display. I'm planning to contact RadioMaster support under warranty, but wanted to ask here first:

- Has anyone seen this exact behavior (arm LED on while holding power, dark screen, nothing on USB)?

- Is there a way to force DFU mode on the Pocket that I could try?

- Is there anything else worth checking?

Thanks in advance!

I bought a Meteor 75 Pro II to upgrade from my 1st gen Meteor 75 Pro O4. I also had an older spare Pro O4 body so I updated it's Betaflight settings too.

Claude Code, combined with Claude in Chrome was great for doing the setup and checking.

I gave Claude code a folder as a scratch pad to save its notes and history, and then told it to use Claude in Chrome.

This is the list of things I've done (I asked Claude to make the summary from its notes.)

1. Rescued a corrupted SD card: backed it up, reformatted it, rebuilt it from the official EdgeTX packs and restored your models.
2. Updated the radio: EdgeTX 2.10.5 → 2.11.8 plus the bootloader, matching SD and voice packs, battery voltage calibrated against a multimeter, and sticks recalibrated (the roll range is still on the watch list).
3. Set up voice alerts: signal low/critical and whoop battery low/critical, only while armed, plus a telemetry screen and 18650 battery thresholds.
4. Fixed the arm channel: moved arming to CH5 as ExpressLRS expects, on the radio and on all three whoops.
5. Matched OSD and warnings in the goggles: the same layout and thresholds on every whoop as the radio alerts.
6. Found and fixed safety problems: a failsafe setting on the gen 1 that could have disarmed it mid-air, and telemetry switched off, which caused false "critical battery" calls.
7. Checked the Pro II's firmware against BetaFPV's official file.
8. Rates: captured every whoop's rate profiles, softened "Indoors", and made SC switch rates the same way on both whoops.
9. Kept a record of everything: backups before and after each change, each one checked; step-by-step notes with rollback; a checklist of your hands-on tests; and a living CLAUDE.md.

Example prompts to try

I fly a RadioMaster Pocket (EdgeTX, internal ELRS) with Betaflight tiny whoops and DJI goggles. Use this folder as the project notebook: create a CLAUDE.md with my radio, whoops and preferences, plus a CHECKLIST.md for hands-on tests I must do myself.

Rules: back up and verify before any change (SD card model files, and a Betaflight CLI diff all per whoop before touching it). Make minimal changes, keep each whoop's tune, and confirm anything destructive. Props off for all tests.

Tasks: check my radio firmware and SD card are current and healthy. Set up voice alerts for link quality and whoop battery while armed. Make sure arm is on CH5 for ELRS. Match the Betaflight OSD warnings to the radio alerts. Copy my rate profiles across whoops so the same switch selects the same rates.

You can edit the SD card directly when I plug the radio in as USB storage, and drive app.betaflight.com in Chrome (I'll pick the serial port). Write up every change with why, steps and rollback.

Sure the lighting is a challenge but god it is so nice when there is wide and far just not a single person around. Just you and your Quad.

Parks here are also pretty well lit so as long as you stay arround the paths it's very doable.

The thing in the left of the video is my leg btw. Haha.

A colleague wants to get into FPV since another colleague in our lab and me started flying this summer.

He already got a RM T8L and is flying in the SIM.

Hey been saying he will buy everything when the VR04s are available again...which seems like never lol.

Now a few colleagues and mutual friends are invited to his birthday party, so we thought of gifting him some budget goggles.

Unfortunately, the only analog goggles I can find available for a reasonable price are the HGLRC VR001s, and I can find ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about them in terms of reviews.

So I'm hoping if someone here has experience with them and if they're somewhat decent for the ~100$ price point. I've had VR04s before and they're pretty alright, for reference.

1303.5 5500 KV motors with 3 inch tri blade props
(5in pitch) nothing fancy but you can fly it anywhere. 5-7min flight time with 680mah Lava

Hello, I want to get started on an fpv drone project. I have some experience in SolidWorks, coding, and Arduino, but no aerospace experience. How can I get started?

Is it normal for the quad to go forward as soon as i give throttle/ get in the air and i have tho pitch back to keep it steady 🙏 thanks in advance

Deep space now launched an upgrade kit to address the O4 gyro problem. Similar to Geprc they are trying to smooth out the camera movements with absorbers, available for the Seeker 3 and Roc4. As DJI is letting everyone else solve their problems, again, let’s hope it will work.

Hi gurus.

I'm new to analog, long time in digital, so installed the famous akk alpha 16 and at 16 watts I dont know if it's ok to loose image using the impulse rc fusion module at 50 meters apart with 3 big concrete walls ? Or the analog signals are just strong if there's LOS?

I'm wanting to do long range with some mountains in between(4/5 km) so for that reason I purchase the monster 16 watts.

Let me know what should I expect.

Thatnks

I bought a used Betafpv Cetus X with a controller and Eachine EV100 goggles. I’m having a problem with it I can’t get a video feed. I’m new to drones, so I downloaded BetaFlight, connected the drone, flashed the CLI for the Cetus X onto it, and set the drone to 5800 MHz CH4 Fatshark and the goggles to the same settings, but there’s still no video feed. I used the goggles’ automatic search feature, but they still couldn’t find the video feed. Should I change something in the BetaFlight settings? Or is there something else I need to do with the drone itself?