r/travel • u/redcccp United States • 1d ago
Images + Trip Report 18 mesmerizing days in hong kong
Spent about two and a half weeks in Hong Kong in late September. First ten days I was working out of Cyberport, then took a week off and moved over to the Kowloon side. All iPhone photos, mostly shot after work or late at night.
I thought I'd come back with skyline shots. Instead, almost everything I kept is street level. Taxis, trams, minibuses, and old apartment blocks with air con units stacked forty floors high.
Image notes:
1–2: Mid-Levels and the hillside roads above Central. The jungle just spills over the retaining walls between the towers. Never got used to it.
3–5: The trams. HK$3.30 a ride, and the front seat on the upper deck is the best view in the city. I rode them end to end a few times just to look out the window.
6–7: Yick Cheong (the Monster Building) in Quarry Bay. Residents banned photos in the courtyard, so these are from King's Road. Exterior is more interesting anyway imo.
8: Same stretch of King's Road. Half the old blocks are wrapped in green scaffold netting.
9: Taxi outside Mido Cafe in Yau Ma Tei.
10: A side street on the Kowloon side. Taxis are half the traffic.
11: Kids kicking a ball around a public pitch, squeezed in between the towers.
12: Minibuses lined up on a side street in Sai Ying Pun with the harbour at the bottom. If you're going, figure these out. They go everywhere the MTR doesn't.
13: A red taxi under a glass office tower. Old and new right next to each other.
14: Back on King's Road. Footbridges, tram tracks, and the hills right behind.
15: Monster Building again, looking straight up.
16: Happy Valley on a Wednesday race night. HK$10 to get in, beer garden in the middle of the track, skyline behind the back straight. Best ten bucks I spent.
17–18: Neon in Jordan and Mong Kok after rain. A lot of it has been pulled down over the last few years, so what's left feels worth shooting while it's there.
19: The beautiful building in the background with the crazy lines is the Bank of China Tower in Central. The one skyline-ish shot that made the cut.
20: A street corner well after midnight. The red taxis never really stop.
Only having evenings free for the first ten days turned out to be fine. The city is better after dark anyway. Cooler, emptier, and after rain everything reflects.
Stuff that stuck with me:
Transit is absurd. Octopus card and you can do MTR, trams, buses, ferries, minibuses, 7-Eleven, everything.
Old and new aren't in separate neighborhoods. A hundred year old shophouse sits under a glass tower and nobody thinks that's weird.
It is a walking city on a hill. Bring better shoes than I did.
Food deserves its own post. Short version: clear soup brisket at Sister Wah, roast goose at Tin Lung, wontons at Shing Kee. Mid-Autumn fell during the trip, so mooncakes everywhere and lanterns in Victoria Park.
Not perfect. Expensive, humid, hotel rooms are tiny. But I get why people get obsessive about this place.
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u/bouncy_neko 1d ago
I am originally from there, still have family there, and I visit as often as I can. Thanks for visiting HK. Brings warmth to my heart whenever people talk about how much they loved it there.
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u/born_lever_puller 1d ago
It's one of my favorite cities in the world. My wife and I spent a few long weekends there when we were living in East Asia 40 years ago. We stayed in the Chungking Mansions each time.
I'd love to go back, but my health doesn't allow me to travel much anymore. I'd imagine that things have probably changed a bit since then, but the food must still be amazing!
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u/Exploregonians 21h ago
My wife and I visited your amazing home city 12 years ago on our Honeymoon. The neon was still up and it just vibrated with life. We returned earlier this year and fell even more in love with it, even though Hong Kong has been experiencing some massive shifts. It was sad that so much of the neon is gone, but it made us appreciate mainstays like the ding-dings and the Star Ferry that much more. Absolutely incredible Hong Kongers gave us so much kindness and good conversation. Truly a special place.
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u/Semproser 1d ago
Lived in HK for a while, these images really embody how I remember it.
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u/KuriTokyo 48 countries visited so far. It's a big planet. 1d ago
How are the beaches in HK? Are they clean and does it have any beach culture?
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u/Bubbly-Comparison-29 1d ago
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u/KuriTokyo 48 countries visited so far. It's a big planet. 5h ago
Did you swim at the beach? If so, how clean was it? If not, why not?
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u/Semproser 1d ago
I was there about 16 years ago and the beaches were often ok looking but the water and shoreline so polluted that you really didn't want to get in.
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u/KuriTokyo 48 countries visited so far. It's a big planet. 5h ago
Thanks for the reply. It's what I'm worried about. We have cheap flights to HK and it would be a great winter escape.
If you can't swim there, then that rules it out
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u/Semproser 4h ago edited 4h ago
That was a long time ago though, I don't know if it's been cleaned up since. Besides that I spent plenty of time in the ocean, probably shouldn't have lol. There are people on the beach plenty.
Not sure how much you're familiar with this kind of city but it also stinks smell wise pretty much everywhere. I really did love the place but expect most of it to have the same smell and feel as having your face in the exhaust of a bus.
I say this just so that the worst parts aren't a surprise, frankly I think you'll find many ways to enjoy it.
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u/KuriTokyo 48 countries visited so far. It's a big planet. 3h ago
I've been to HK before, China too.
Looking at pics on Google map of the beaches, they don't seem dirty, but you rarely see anyone swimming.
We've got cheap, direct flights from Tokyo with HK Express. I really need a winter escape to some beaches.
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u/Crestsando 4h ago
Just to add the best beaches are on the south side of Hong Kong Island or East side in the Sai Kung area. Both face away from the turbid Pearl River Delta effluence.
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u/Rocky_Bukkake 1d ago
god i love hong kong. 18 days… still so much to do. a nearly ideal city, minus a disgusting housing situation and overbearing heat.
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u/ironlung306 1d ago
My hometown. Great to visit but I would have a hard time living there.
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u/holandaraf 1d ago
Why is that? Just curiosity from someone who's never been there but wants to someday
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u/ironlung306 1d ago edited 1d ago
Living costs are insane and unless you’re rich you’re probably living in a tiny apartment. It is polluted and smelly. Over crowded everywhere you go and just generally a very hectic environment. Not a relaxing place to be. Life is very competitive and most people just work all the time. Summers can be too hot and humid for some people (though I prefer that to a cold climate.) Most of the city is very dystopian and just not nice to look at aesthetically.
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u/Rocky_Bukkake 1d ago
you basically got it. such a cool, cool place. tough for living, i’d imagine.
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u/holandaraf 1d ago
I understand! Where do you live now, if you don't mind me asking? Just so I can attempt to compare the experiences
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u/ironlung306 1d ago
Toronto Canada
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u/Poison_Penis 19h ago
I am from Hong Kong and I literally just came back from Toronto. You are having a laugh if you think HK smells worse than Toronto considering we don’t have people smoking weed in public here.
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u/ironlung306 14h ago edited 14h ago
So…there are weed smokers in Toronto. Yes.
Btw I was never comparing the two cities anyway so I don’t think this is very relevant. But if you think Hong Kong smells great then I think you’ve gotten used to it.
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u/Poison_Penis 12h ago
But if you think Hong Kong smells great then I think you’ve gotten used to it.
Same for Toronto… Hong Kong does not smell great nor does it smell bad. It has areas that smells good, and areas that smells bad. As with most cities - just the same as NY, as Toronto.
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u/Fresh_Interview_9191 1d ago
Most of these things I also experienced as a tourist. Next to that, people were generally rude (although I've recently heard this is not on purpose and just the way of communicating) and tourists (mostly from mainland) behave like little children and push in when going up the Victoria Peak. Japan was the exact opposite where the western world could learn a lot from, but in Hong Kong I suddenly felt the western world was quite civilized.
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u/ironlung306 1d ago
Cantonese people generally sound rude outside of formal settings. That’s just the way they talk.
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u/ZeroMomentum 1d ago
Cause once you move away, most cities you move to aside from Tokyo, London, NYC. Those new places give you double or triple the living space.
I was back last year and I cannot imagine living there again
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u/Fun-Air-4314 1d ago
Your photos have a subtle nostalgia to them even for someone who lives here - makes me yearn to just take a day off, walk the streets with some street food and a bubble tea. I can almost hear the basketball bouncing in one of your pictures, great stuff.
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u/SaltedCaffeine 1d ago
This is the look of HK cinema that I grew with. HK'ers or Taiwanese as people who actually live there (some Taiwanese cities have a similar look) might the hate how their cities feel and look like, but for me as an outsider, they are simply charming.
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u/TA-desi-navigator- 1d ago
I love Hong Kong. Thank you for showcasing my former city so beautifully.
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u/PresentFriendly3725 1d ago
So for me those skyscrapers have something dystopian. Maybe because I'm from a city without skyscrapers.
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u/Dense_Delay_4958 1d ago
Hong Kongers could easily view your city's lack of development as something concerning
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u/PresentFriendly3725 22h ago
Well maybe I'd say it's somewhat shallow to equate high rather unpretty residential buildings with a high level of development but that's probably the difference in views.
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u/horsetiorsmthidk 16h ago
I think it's also kind of shallow to assume that the endless monotony of plain low rises looks better than a city with actual height to it
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u/PresentFriendly3725 15h ago
Well it's not an assumption, I just look at it. It's my taste. Tastes are different. No need to get angry. If you like it, good for you, more options to choose from. Be happy 😊
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u/horsetiorsmthidk 15h ago
I mean, you made the exact same point in reverse sooo
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u/PresentFriendly3725 15h ago
Not really, I pointed out that in my point of view, this architecture is not a sign of superior development. You kind of insinuated an assumption that does not exist.
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u/GRANDMA_FISTER 2h ago
I'm there with you buddy, as somebody who lived in China and HK for a few years, these ugly ass buildings can't really be defended. They don't have a choice due to space concerns but lots of developed and developing cities can do without in the western world.
Doesn't change the fact they are ugly from the outside and sometimes terribly outdated and horribly maintained from the inside in many HK areas.
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u/FreeHongKong27 10h ago
It's neither a dystopia nor a utopia. At the end of the day, it's just a taller building and we have a bunch of those. Nothing goes on there that wouldn't happen in, say, London or NYC. And as you see, it's quite often to see greenery just around the corner too. The nearest hike trail is also typically some 10 - 30 mins away, with public transport.
So all in all it is just a mundane but pretty convenient place!
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u/DreamingInAMaze 19h ago
Dystopian? Utopian? These are all fantasy. In reality, living in an apartment is kind of a compromise. Would it be better if everyone lives in a house? More natural lands will need to be consumed for such development. There will be fewer natural lands. And also about maintenance. How much more individual maintenance effort is required for a house? In an apartment this is collectively managed. There are pros and cons as always. Sometimes I saw some of these apartment photos in the r/UrbanHell subreddit. But usually when you shift the direction to include some nature or skyline, that doesn’t look very hell like. Really depends on perspective.
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u/PresentFriendly3725 18h ago
There is some truth in what you say but the perspective between those huge shadow beating skyscrapers, dim, ACs everywhere etc. is grim.
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u/suzannekhann 14h ago
How did you edit your photos they’re beautiful and look like they’re from the past
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u/GeologistFragrant823 11h ago
It is very interesting that for a city like Hongkong with such high population density the street can feel so empty. When I visited this was the part that felt a bit shocking to me. Seeing OP’s post again confirms that feeling.
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u/DwimmerCrafts88-25 1d ago
Hong Kong is by far one of my favorite places I have ever traveled, and I can't wait to go back. Your pictures do it supreme justice! That first pic is a work of art and I love that shot of the Bank of China Tower! I have always been captivated by the design of that skyscraper ever since I was a kid seeing it in movies. I love HK, and I'm glad you did too!
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u/yesthisisarne A 🇫🇮 in 🇩🇪 (66 countries visited, lived in 4) 1d ago
I hope you left Kowloon at least once
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u/Pretty-Ad-5047 23h ago
Beautiful photos. I love Hong Kong! Went this year after dreaming about for nearly a decade of seeing the harbor when the markets open on Bloomberg.
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u/King-Ed-7s-Cacti 12h ago
I love the pics, they make me want to go. Love the vintage, rough around the edges vibe. Would go in two seconds if I could get away.
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u/arnaudbrabus75 Algeria 1d ago
What do you use with the Iphone ? Some filter or stuff like this ? Please
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u/huehuehuehuehuuuu 1d ago
Did you get the chance to go to the outskirts OP? Are the holy Buddhist pet cows still at the temple? What about the pink dolphins? Are they still there?
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u/lnvu4uraqt 1d ago
Thanks for the memories! My first visit to HK I stopped by in front of Mido Cafe. Glad it's still there.
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u/lolkaoru 1d ago
Hope you had a chance to go hiking! It's one of my favorite things to do there. Despite it being a complete concrete jungle, the fact that you're a mere bus ride away to/from some amazing hiking trails is one thing truly to behold
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u/shoutout2saddam 1d ago
I was thinking of a different Hong Kong.
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u/MemeMeOnce 1d ago
Absolutely stunning. How do you get this effect on an iPhone?
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u/rokkugoh 1d ago
I am obsessed with the Bank of China building lol. IMPei was really a master. He designed the Louvre too.
Thanks for sharing! I myself am going for a long trip soon and can’t wait to eat.
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u/DejongBCN 17h ago
Cool pictures. I like the night pictures especially.
Why does it look so poor? I somehow pictured a bit cleaner and nicer Honk Kong.
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u/wowitshemlock 10h ago
No idea how you got your iPhone photos to turn out like that, freaking awesome
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u/Cautious_Stress_6150 9h ago
Wow! 😮 It looks fantastic, I’m so envious!
Fingers crossed I’ll get there one day, thanks for sharing! ❤️
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u/salcander 1d ago
pretty shots! pictures 1-2 are farther from central, it's around the kennedy town area near the waterfront
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u/CapControl 20h ago
number 17 ooofff my god that is a stunning shot and nicely graded too!
others are pretty okay too... ;)
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u/soupnoodles4ever 1d ago
Beautiful photos, I’m happy you liked Hong Kong, it’s not as popular as before as a travel destination, hope more people would visit.
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u/AbusePillow 1d ago
Hong Kong is my second (close to being first) favourite city I've ever visited. Loved each moment of it and wish that I could've seen more in my week there.
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u/scoschooo 1d ago
hotel rooms are tiny
seriously not true at all - FYI
cheap hotels there have full sized rooms, huge windows, 2 queens, etc. not the budget, very cheapest hotels. just normal cheap hotels.
the city is amazing and food is so good
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u/ClassyCamel 1d ago
Great pics! I was there about a decade ago for a study abroad and I remember it being smoggy as hell during the weekdays, has it cleared up any with EV adoption? Some days it was even hard to breathe outside
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u/Sea_Tap9891 18h ago
just a tip if you are planing to visit hk, 5 days is too much, 3 days should be enough if you are fast paced traveler and don’t do hiking in +30 degrees
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u/flaneur-terrestre 15h ago
Was last in HK in 2002. It’s eerie to see it now that the communists turned off the neon lights
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u/why-am-i-hear-again 1d ago
No offence but your pics describe a God awful place
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u/King-Ed-7s-Cacti 12h ago
Opposite for me. They look inviting. I prefer a little bit of ground level rugged conditions in travels. Pics were perfect. imo.
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u/ironlung306 10h ago
I understand this perspective. Just depends what you like when you travel. It ain’t Paris.
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u/Professional-Power57 1d ago
I'm kinda surprised you find these places mesmerizing. I grew up there and I don't find them that exciting I guess
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u/QuirkyFoodie 1d ago
Living and visiting is never the same. Those who live and lived in Hong Kong still don't understand this concept until now.
You need to put yourself in another person's shoe (which is hard) but if you do you will eventually see the novelty, grit and character that is Hong Kong.
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u/cliff_of_dover_white 1d ago
Lol I was born and raised in Hong Kong and I definitely understand this concept. That OP is just strange lol
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u/capitanmagma 1d ago
imagine you're a westerner who grew up in a small village or town and come to a huge city like HK for the first time. i did that this march and yeah, it was absolutely mesmerizing!
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u/QuirkyFoodie 1d ago
Exactly. There are so many kinds of places people grew up or live in, a lot of them will find HK exotic, interesting or wonderful simply because it's very different from what they currently have.
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u/Professional-Power57 1d ago
I'm just curious I don't know why I get downvoted.... How is it offensive??
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u/cliff_of_dover_white 1d ago
Imagine you are in Switzerland taking pictures of the Alps and an old couple come to you and say:
„We see these mountains for 60 years already and we have no idea why people are obsessed with these rocks!“
你會點諗?
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u/Professional-Power57 1d ago
No, it's more like I go to your town and take pictures of 12th and oak Street, and you're curious why that corner is particularly mesmerizing and I get offended for you even being surprised I take photos of that street corner... Those pictures aren't typical tourist spots or view points.
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u/cliff_of_dover_white 1d ago
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u/Professional-Power57 1d ago
Great that's a good explanation! Now how is it offensive for someone to be curious about this car wash? Does it make you angry somehow?
The last photo was literally a picture of two taxis, am I not allowed to be curious to ask why those taxis are particularly mesmerizing or interesting??? I still don't get how this can be interpreted in an offensive way. And I am also more curious the OP didn't even respond but somehow other people are offended on the OP's behalf, like "oh how dare you ask such a question to OP!!"
Truly bizarre
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u/Jisifus 1d ago
Because it's irrelevant and dismissive to talk about how other people's travel destinations are mundane to you purely because you spent so much time there, in a community about travelling.
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u/Professional-Power57 1d ago
So I can't ask about why these places are fascinating to tourists as a local? Like I can't be a tourist in my own city???
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u/ironlung306 1d ago
Reddit likes to downvote anyone they disagree with, even if there is nothing untrue being said.
Btw I’m also from there and understand where you’re coming from.
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u/Professional-Power57 1d ago
Thanks but don't support me, because these people will likely downvote you just for agreeing with me...
Apperantly if you go to gallery and look at art you should not ask the artist anything about their composition and colour choice. Learn something new everyday.
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u/SR252000 17h ago
We used to come frequently pre covid, after all those protestors got muffed over china’s agreement during Y2K “one country , two government system” China lied and didn’t leave HK alone .. for this we never came back
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u/Lostintime1985 1d ago
Love those 90s Toyotas (pic #1) if I could I’d import one.