Some places are so picturesque and beautiful that one may think that’s unfair. Swiss Alps definitely ranks very high in that list. We have been to Switzerland before, visiting Interlaken, Lucerne, Geneve, Rhine falls etc and were suitably impressed. One small gripe was that Matterhorn refused to peep out of the clouds and the camera went unused.
We decided to try our luck again with Matterhorn. I realised compared to Bernese Oberland the Engadin(e) valley gets “relatively” less tourist in summer but it’s no less scenic. So, the plan was to fly into Zurich, catch the train to St Moritz, a few days there, train to Zermatt, try our luck for couple of days and then train to Chamonix, a few days there and fly out of Geneve.
There were five of us. One person has mobility issues, so long hikes were out. Two were young girls, spending their free time on Insta/Tic-Tock so I had to include a few things they recommended.
Switzerland remains reassuringly expensive. And in St Moritz you pay another 25% on top of normal Swiss price.
Train tickets: I had my days planned out well in advance so I bought four Swiss day supersaver passes as soon as they were available. For 54 CHF excellent value for money. That covered the normal trains running on Bernina line and the ticket for Glacier Express. Needed to pay only for the GE seat reservation.
Engadin pass: we were entitled as we were staying for more than two nights. You pay 10 CHF as deposit, refundable. Fabulous. All the cable cars that I wanted to ride were free, which truly saved me a fortune. Free bus and train ride in the upper Engadin region. For anyone planning to travel to Engadin, I recommend staying three nights just to take advantage of the pass.
Zermatt: small compact town, just walked.
Chamonix: local travel card which includes free local travel in bus and trains.
My views (my views only, feel free to disagree):
Zurich Lindt Chocolate factory: younger daughter emotionally blackmailed me to visit. OK, but not something that I’d recommend for the money and trouble.
We had to leave our large suitcases at a store near the station, booked through Bounce app. I’m glad that I had done that. Out of curiosity, I went to check the self-storage lockers at Zurich station. It was a Saturday midday and there were several people waiting. Bounce was faster and cheaper.
Engadin ( Engadin) : the little town of Pontresina was our base. Lovely little town, excellent connections, much cheaper than St Moritz, highly recommended. We stayed at a small hotel called Muller, I have nothing but praise for the staff. I loved the walk from the hotel to the small Request Stop of Surovas for the Bernina line. We caught the GE from Samedan which is just ten minutes taxi ride.
Bernina Express: there is absolutely no need to pay extra money and travel by Bernina Express. The SBB trains have large windows which can be easily opened by pinching the bar inwards. No worry about glare from the windows, which can’t be opened in Bernina express. You can get down as often as possible. It’d be a shame not to stop at Ospizio Bernina, Lago Bianca, Alp Grum and Miralago. Lago Poschiavo is breath-taking. The colour was as stunning as lake Peyto in the Canadian Rockies. You don’t need to go on long hikes, short hikes would be very rewarding. I strongly recommend, if possible, to break the journey into two days. No need to pend much time in Tirano. Grab a pizza and hop back on the next train.
Many cable cars in the region. Top three would be Muottas Muragl, Diavolezza and Corvatsch. Of course, you can go up on many more if you have time.
Lakes: Top three are lake Silvaplana (I can sit and watch the windsurfers the whole day), Miralago and Lago Bianco (actually a man-made reservoir).
St Moritz: you got to visit just to check out the prices!! Again, was forced by the daughters to go to a “insta” famous chocolate/coffee shop. There are many prettier towns in the Alps.
Glacier express: This time it was my sister who blackmailed me. The biggest advantage is that you don’t need to change platforms with many bags. Pound for pound Bernina express line is a better value. Some of the view from GE was a bit monotonous. The view of Andermat was fabulous.
You CAN open windows in Glacier Express. The staff were exceedingly nice. They showed me how to pull down the upper half of the glass section of the doors. More than enough for photos. There is one window in the first class which can be pulled down too. Being a “cattle class” passenger, I did not want to disturb the rich and famous too often so requested the staff only once.
Zermatt and Matterhorn: My prayers were answered. Clear blue sky with fluffy clouds. I have seen thousands of photos but is still unforgettable. Sadly, there was hardly any snow.
Photo tips: sunrise shot of glowing Matterhorn : you can of course get up very early and hike to Riflesee but for lazy folks like me, get up at 6 am, have a coffee, then stroll for ten minutes to the bridge near the church and see the peak on fire.
Sunset shot : fifteen minutes’ walk from station, then hundreds of steps would take you to Murini View point. Worth the effort.
Gornergratt : the final stop does not show you the ridge , only one side, so it’s not that great. Much better view from Rotenboden and Riffleberg.
I strongly recommend stopping at Riffelberg to sip a beer and see the Matterhorn framed by pine trees.
Take the first train up if possible. It was insanely crowded by midday.
Don’t even dream of buying any outdoor gear from Zermatt. Too expensive.
Zermatt is very popular with my “desi Indian” brothers and sisters. Enjoy Biriyani and Naan at Golden India restaurant.
We stayed at a small hotel called Tannenhof. Nothing fancy, well located, perfectly accessible, can see Matterhorn form the breakfast area.
BTW Toblerone company was forced to remove Matterhorn from their logo as they have switched production to outside Switzerland.
I’m very much into history. I request you to read about the “battle for Matterhorn”, the rivalry, the jealousy, the sabotage, the tragedy and the controversy surrounding Edward Whymper’s ascent in 1865. Then please visit the small but poignant Mountaineers’ Cemetery.
We then caught three trains to go all the way to Chamonix in France. Our day pass covered most of it. Needed to pay extra 5CHF for Vallorcine to Chamonix Sud. No one asked to check the passports. One of the trains was six minutes late. Sacrilege! We joked (as regular users of East Midland railway in the UK) and felt very happy to see the British inefficiency and laughable punctuality have reached Switzerland as well.
Stayed at a lovely AirBnB at Chamonix. Bought passes for two days covering most of the cable cars.
Tip: It is unbelievably cold and windy at the top of Aiguille du Mudi. It was 20 degrees at Chamonix and it felt like minus 5 up there. Be prepared. Mont Blanc did not cooperate with us, hiding most of the times. There is a glass room called Void; we skipped it as it was an hour-long queue. Book the cable car slots well in advance as the morning slots get taken up quickly and the chances of clouds covering Mont Blanc is high in the afternoon.
Please also visit the Montenvers glacier and the ice cave. It’ll make you feel sad. You can see a glacier dying in the front of your eyes.
Lovely view of the whole Mont Blanc massif and the town below from the Brevent cable car. Chamonix is significantly cheaper than the Swiss towns. Lovely walkable town.
Caught the Alpy Transfer bus back to Geneve.
Overall, the experience was extremely pleasant. SBB app is fantastic. All the people we met were very nice and helpful apart from the guy at Zermatt station who seemed to be doing me a favour by asking my queries about connections and selling tickets.
Maybe, we’ll return again.