While I have seen some cool working Sokka boomerangs online, I couldn't find a working 3d printed version. That's why I made one myself (with onshape). After some practice and a few tutorials I was able to get a close return almost every time. It worked first try, and I am pretty happy with how it came out. Heres the link in case anyone wants to take a look.

Had a customer commission this from me and he wanted to blacked out and said to use Carbon Fiber. That stuff is super tricky top print in.

Ordered Polymaker Marble White PLA from Amazon. Cracked open the box and found an unsealed spool of ELEGOO Matte Navy Blue staring back at me.

Apparently, some cheap bastard figured out Amazon’s return policy is a self-service filament upgrade program.

Amazon has billions invested in robotics, AI, and logistics, but apparently nobody can tell the difference between white and fucking blue. 💀

Edit: Already requested a replacement from Amazon. Just a shitpost, not a request for tech support from people who missed the fucking joke.

I have a bunch of used rolls that I'm not going to use. Free to pickup. Located in Oklahoma City, OK.

Update: Claimed

Miles is my favorite spider man. Bringing him to life was pretty sweet.

This was all created by me. The Twin Towers of the World Trade Center.

Hey 3D printing fans!

For the last two months I have put tremendous effort in building a unique 3D model generator. It turns any QR code into a 3D mini city to be 3D printed!

I have made it free, save (runs locally on your device) and hope I can inspire others to print some.

www.urban-qr.com

Please share your creations and feedback, looking to improve where possible!

Feel free to repost on other sub-reddits, and tag me! 🤓

I decided to do a spooky Halloween print that beats the crappy store bought ones. So I decided to make a 16inch Australian Huntsman spider.

When it was black and in two halves it wasn’t scary at all.

One 30 min paint job later and it’s horrifying.

I will put it on the side wall of our front door so you don’t see it until you turn around to leave. Should get some nice ring camera footage.

I’ve been working on a series of food themed fidgets to try to sell in local coffee shops and bakeries. These are my Halloween versions of the corkscrew cupcake foodle! Haven’t really shared my work online yet, curious what people think.

When printing multicolor with a single nozzle, traditional methods require at least one purge for every layer that uses more than one filament. Multiply that by the number of colors and layers in your print, and you'll quickly fill up your poop bin.

I had a thought: most print heads have some clearance between the nozzle and the build plate. Why not use that space to print several layers of one color at a time, then backfill the gaps with another color?

Turns out, someone actually wrote a research paper on this exact concept a few years ago, but as far as I could tell, it never made it into a practical tool.

Well, I couldn't leave it at that. After burning some tokens, I put together a post-processing tool that attempts to do exactly this. I'm calling it ColorStack.

The workflow is simple:

1. Slice your model as usual.
2. Open the sliced file in ColorStack.
3. Process and export it.
4. Send the modified file to your printer.

Full instructions are available on GitHub.

In an ideal, best-case test print, I was able to reduce filament purges from 49 to just 9. Since filament changes on a single-nozzle printer can be pretty slow, that also cut the print time for my test model from 1 hour 10 minutes to just 30 minutes.

Obviously, this isn't going to work equally well for every model, but I've found that most multicolor models offer at least some marginal benefit.

Ideally, this would be a built-in slicer feature, but I'm not really equipped to implement that myself. So I'm releasing ColorStack for anyone to freely use, copy, modify, and hopefully improve.

I'm sharing it here because I don't want the idea to sit forgotten in my GitHub repo and disappear into the void.

Made a bigger version as well 🤣
Cable Nuts 🥜

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/Guitar%20Cable%20Balls/340625.html?trackModuleType=9

My newest model available for free. For the full color version I was using a H2C but a toolchanger would be even faster.

Everything printed in a standing orientation because of the maximum details but on a 3 color part it really bumps printing time.

Links in my bio if you would like to print it.

I usually make my coasters out of oak, but last night I came up with this optical design idea, so printed it (my neighbors wouldn't have liked it if I turned on the CNC in the middle of the night 😂 )

Pesky doorstep squirrel has gone from digging in the flower pots to nibbling on my ASA!

Fully 3d printed in PLA and hand painted by me. They are both a gift for my Fathers Western Collection. The revolver is so long because its based on Ned Buntline's Legendary Revolvers. Only Vallejo true metalic metal, cheap store 3$ acrilic paints set and 2$ cheap Oil paint was used

Wife thinks I have a problem and this is too much filament, but I disagree. I got all of these, mainly mixes of pla and abs, for around $8/KG.

Its spooky season so its glow in the dark time! What are some of your favorite glow filaments? Looking for quality, brightness and unique gradients/color combos. I recently saw a black and green pla from amolen that looked interesting.

Also what are some tips and tricks for optimizing glow?

Looks like the top/bottom layer doesn’t bond to the body well? Not sure what’s happening here tbh but it’s happened to basically anything that I print that is box shaped. In this event it’s a garage and I believe that on the inside this is happening and sagging, this catching the door to prevent it from closing.
Any help is appreciated.
Ender 3
PLA+

EDIT:
15% infill
Sparse infill: cross hatch
Internal solid infill: monotonic
2 wall loops
7 top shell layers
100% top and bottom surface density
5 bottom shell layers

Probably too expensive, but imagine never having to home, realtime resonances and accuracy feedback, and never losing steps.

He is 42in tall and weighs about 27 pounds. All in all it took about 900hrs to print and paint. What do yall think? I need a name for hime give your best suggestions plz... I might pick your's!!!

Hey all! If you use bookshelf speakers, I made some custom risers that have a few shelves below. Specifically I have some MR4's but others would work no problem. Check out specs if you're interested:

https://www.printables.com/model/1881423-bookshelf-desk-speaker-risers-w-storage