My hands get sweaty and sometimes makes it hard to grip this grip that I use of my AYN thor, is there something I can use either coat it with or add a rubber surface or something. Thank you.

Hey everyone! I have a physical joint from a Halloween prop that broke/needs a duplicate, and I’m looking to recreate it so I can 3D print a copy.

I have limited CAD experience and was hoping for some recommendations on any software that can scan and render a copy?

I do not have a 3d printer and I know nothing about them, but I am in a situation in which I am trying to find solutions. I have a-symmetrical feet, that I use orthotics for, but it has been impossible to find shoes that don't eventually lead to issues (I have tried all different types from name brand to medical). This had lead me to the idea of making my own shoes. Are 3d printers capable of not only doing so, but making shoes/sneakers of high durability? If so, where should I look to learn what to get in a printer, and how do design and print them? Thank you

Has anyone else tried these snap cap inserts?

My local Scheels was sold out of 9mm soooo of course I had to go the next best route and print some inserts to throw into some spent shell casings

So i have tried to print this model a couple of times. I had problems with blank spots in the first layer. I washed the smooth plate with dish soap, printed this model and it kinda went fine. Next time im printing, i have a hole the exact same place as before the cleaning. Btw i havent dried my filament. I have printed the same model with no issues with the same filament.

Its Sunlu pla matte

Had a customer commission this from me and he wanted to blacked out and said to use Carbon Fiber. That stuff is super tricky top print in.

After my post about the rail my 3d printer broke. I did fix it but in the progress dismantled the head part. I test printed a benchy and it worked. But now when I’m printing more rails the gear on top of my printer part is making a ticking/ clicking sound. When I touched it I felt it twitching. This didn’t happen with the benchy. So far I have seen no problems with my print. Is this normal? If not what can I do to fix it. Another thing is that my heatblock looks slightly crooked. I use an ELEGOO Neptune 4 pro

I designed, printed, painted and assembled this life size prop for my Halloween display. Total height is adjustable, but maxes out at about 6’ 8” before it starts looking goofy. Right now, I have him sitting at about 6’ 2”.

The arms articulate at the elbows using rotating pivot joints that I designed for this build.

The legs articulate at the joints, as well as pivoting where they connect to the base.

There are two slots left on the base for future add-ons… I’m going to give him a pincher arm and a spinning saw blade arm.

Oh, and his mechanical eye is painted with three shades of blacklight reactive paint, for a little extra funsies.

I have both the .stl and the .step file of this print. It has an engraved logo that I want to remove. It is on a curved surface, so I can't just extruded the face or raise it to match the surface. I tried using blender and boolean to cover it up, but it can't do it and leaves a bunch of faces inside the model. I've tried deleting the faces on the .step file with fusion 360, but nothing happens at all when I press delete.

Any ideas? How can I remove the debossed logo from a curved surface? Nothing I've tried is working.

My mom asked me to make a post asking for help with her 3d printer. I don't know much about it myself so if you have any questions I can relay them to her and reply.

My mom has a Bamboo labs X2D. She's using Bamboolabs transparent real PLA. Temps were the Bamboolabs automatic settings. Outer wall 50 inner walls 200. She was using Bamboolab software.

Used glue stick on the bed because we were having adhesion problems. First couple of layers were fine, walked away, came back hours later, was a 55 minute print, bamboolabs said it was completely, only to return to see this. How can I get this off? Can I heat the nozel independently to pull it off?

I suddenly got a notification that the front cover of my print head was not attached, i was very confused and ran upstairs and i didn’t saw anything at first, so i pressed continue, made a weird noise and then saw that it was stuck like this, the lever is inside the back part, how do i get this unstuck? And how did this even happen? Bit hard to see maybe on photo

I can’t move the extruder/print head and i can’t move the lever in any way.

Made a cool model of Pikachu dressed as a ghost! Each colored part was segmented in Blender for low waste, no AMS printing. If you have a request for another Pokemon let me know and I’ll give it a go!

Hey guys. I've been learning some 3d modelling and printing pieces with PLA that I've used as master molds to make plaster molds with (which I later use to make copies with slip). Thus far I've had success with 1 part molds, but I've been running into trouble with 2 part molds.

I've learned about tolerance and I think I've got the hang of it (the keys are working fine). The printed parts look alright, but when making plaster molds out of them, the parts don't exactly fit one another, or rather the opposite; there's a tiny gap between them.

Anyway, this is my setup:

0.4mm nozzle

192C nozzle / 52C bed (this has given me great results with the pla I'm using).

0.6mm layer height (I know some people say this isn't recommended, but [other than the problem currently described], I haven't had any trouble with it).

190 speed

15% grid infill

Printing with an Ender 3 V2 Neo, slicing with cura.

What I suspect may be the culprit is the layer height in addition to the top/bottom layer height (currently set at 10 layers).

Thanks!

Wife thinks I have a problem and this is too much filament, but I disagree. I got all of these, mainly mixes of pla and abs, for around $8/KG.

I have a small suitcase, according to the manufacturer ABS was used. Due to man handeling at the airport two small cracks have developed.

I want to design a Bandaid or plaster and print it and stick it over the crack with two part epoxy

Would PETG or ABS be beter for the patch? Guessing the two part epoxy will be doing most of the work anyway.

When my Bambu A1 cleans the nozzle at the start of every print it wears out this little bit on the top of the bed

Pla, bambu xc1
Bargain, for fun prints
I used the amazon basics, and it kept getting stuck. What would be the best, polymaker? Something else?

Hey so I printed some brackets that I need to screw into once the press fit into something else for a four runner. I originally printed them ideally for printing and less supports and with PLA however they are all breaking. I am going to print them in PETG now however how should I orient them for strength and what layer height? I believe I went with 0.08 as they are small and i figured smaller layer height would equate to better strength. Should I go with bambu's .20 strength preset instead? Second picture is how I oriented it (sorry about the quality of the pic)