When I enter the open-world areas in Bloodborne, my FPS drops to the mid-40s.

I've tried changing the graphics settings and lowering the resolution, but it makes no difference. The FPS stays around the same level.

It feels very similar to playing Elden Ring, where the FPS also drops in open-world areas.

Is there any way to fix this? Are there any settings or tweaks that might help?

Anyone knows how fix artefacts ?

45 and 60 fps with artefacts on some moments while you play it.

Hey guys,

Since I finish my build , I’m looking for a controller that works fine with it. I have a PS5 and tried to pair the dualsens, but there’s a huge input lag when using dualsense over Bluetooth. On usb cable it works fine, but I want to play wirelessly . I was wondering if the Xbox controller works good. I just bought a Xbox Ally X20 and saw a Xbox 25th anniversary for sale. Was thinking to get it for both, the BC250 and the Ally X20 when docked .

Does anyone use the Xbox controller over Bluetooth with the BC250 and Steam?

Thought I’d share my BC-250 build with the community!
For cooling, I wanted to replicate the airflow setup of a mining server I saw on YouTube that used this card. I ordered some 60mm fans from DigiKey, but only realized after they arrived that they were voltage-controlled rather than PWM. They’re rated for 12V, but I’m currently running them at a constant 7V to keep the noise bearable (around 55-60 dBA according to the Decibel X app).
Initially, I planned to design a chassis in CAD and 3D print it, but the printing costs turned out to be higher than I expected. So I ended up using the same cardboard box the card came in!
I made a small pedestal to raise the card off the bottom of the box, leaving some space for airflow underneath. I also tried to channel the airflow through the card rather than letting it escape around the sides.
On the software side, I’ve installed Bazzite and enabled the Skillfish governor. No BIOS tweaks or CPU/GPU core unlocking yet.
So far, Spider-Man Remastered runs at around 35 FPS, with both CPU and GPU temperatures hovering around 55°C.
For those of you running Bazzite on the BC-250, are you getting similar FPS? Curious how my results compare and whether there’s more performance to squeeze out of this card.

Redoing OS for BC250, I put cachy os on it but the BC250 script kept black screening when skillfish was installed. Did it manually and got some progress but now games load but fail to fully launch.

Any advice is appreciated, cachy, bazzite, I just prefer easy stuff.

No a jump start but I like to call it that, but I have to do this every time. Is it the PSU or something else? The light pulses on the switch the first time, then it boots up the second

I have been using my board on Bazzite for few weeks now and so far I've been able to unlock the 40 CUs @ 2000mhz (+bring down the idle frequency to 350mhz), apply the acpi fix to get lower idle CPU frequency, enable the sensors and set custom fan curve that makes the board more silent when idle and set up 8GB SWAP instead of using ZRAM. So far everything looks fine, all the games I've tested have run stable between 50-80 FPS (RDR2, NBA 2K26, Far Cry 6, CS2, Commandos Origins, Mafia The Old Country) therefore I can say I'm pretty much happy with what I have.
However, there is one thing I haven't been able to do which is the 8 Core CPU Unlock, which is because the board cannot do (complete) a warm reboot. Once I do a reboot, the board restarts and after posting I get the bazzite logo which disapperas and (which is normal, but instead of coming back again during a successful cold boot), I get a black screen. I can see the LEDs flasing on the board, but nothing happens.
I managed to figure out when adding 'nomodeset' to the boot args, the board boots up after a restart and I can get 8 active cores, but is not usable due to the unloaded graphics driver. If I do a reboot without 'nomodeset' I get the black screen and if I turn the board off, I get 6 cores at next cold boot (as how the script works: after the cold boot - which 'unmasks(?) the 8 cores, the system requires a warm reboot to get all cores activated).
So, I dropped the focus on the 8 cores and concentrated on resolving the boot issue which I could resolve by adding 'reboot=pci acpi,force cold' to the kernel boot args. This however, due to the cold restart arg is not compatible with the 8-core unlock script at all, but at least my board can do a reboot when triggered finally.
I am aware of this modded BIOS: https://github.com/coderredlab/bc250-8core-unlock/blob/main/README.md but unfortunately, it uses the same method (a warm reboot is triggered during a cold boot) as the bc250-core-cu-unlock script, thus I fear my board would get into a boot loop.
What about https://github.com/Forbidden-Darkness/AMD-BC-250-UEFI-v2.2-Firmware-Menu-Script/tree/main ? I haven't been able to find the description of what this does during boot (if does a warm reboot during cold boot or not).
I am not sure if I should go ahead and flash the bios as I don't want to brick my board.
P.S.: forgot to mention I tested the board with other OS and the warm reboot did not work either..

I'm currently planning a Nexgen case build with an AIO. In the build guide / description, the creator uses a Corsair Commander fan controller (Commander Duo/Core). However, where I live, Corsair controllers are overpriced to the point where it doesn't make sense. For those of you who built in this case or a similar what cheaper/more widely available alternatives did you use for fan and pump control?

I spent a very long time troubleshooting Bluetooth latency and for quite some time thought it was either the adapter or my devices. I plugged the dongle in the rear USB 2.0 port and have an ssd hooked up to the USB 3.0 port. Turns out the USB 3.0 port emits frequencies that basically jams the BT/WIFI dongle. When I used an extension cable to move the dongle away from the rear IO, all my BT latency went away.

TLDR: Do not plug you BT/WIFI dongle directly into the rear IO if you’re using the USB 3.0 port. The USB 3.0 port will jam the signal from the dongle.

I thought I was crazy but BC250 on stock cooler indeed only work with a certain orientation.

I used to run my board without a case before I bought my mATX case and the orientation was vertically 180⁰ off which means the I/O shield is on the right side with the heatsink facing side panel (PCIE facing up)

After I got my hands on the mATX case, as how the case was traditionally designed, I need to rotate the board 180⁰ so that the I/O shield facing the left side (PCIE facing down)

My temp suddenly goes up to 10⁰C more, on the same game, on the same settings. I thought it is because of the mesh panel, but after removing all the panel the temp remain the same. I did everything I can and the only way I can reduce the temp is by turning down the resolution and in game settings.

Then I stumble upon a comment from one of the member here saying that the heatpipe was designed with a certain orientation or else the fluid inside the heatpipe will be fighting the gravity. Then I did a research and indeed some heatpipe are designed to work only with a specific orientation or else the system will experience a jump of up to 10⁰C in temp.

As you can see, I did some testing with the board laying flat and I got my old temp back. I think we need more testing to verify this phenomenon

I had a fully running, non-OC bc250.

Wanted to explore overclocking, and hopefully reduce some visual oddities by increasing power and having installed the backplate cooling.

I also had an ESP 32, which connected the bc250 to home assistant, and allowed turn on via BT controller.

The Microfit adapter from MOSFET party arrived, installed it last night and it seemed to work ok on initial boot. Didn’t test or change any settings as it was late.

Since last night, the bc250 board won’t stay powered for longer than a few seconds. Fans turn on, lights flash and do their thing, but it’s all gone within 5 seconds. Doesn’t show up on WiFi.

The esp itself is controllable at all times, will boot and all of that. The esp also shows up on WiFi and provides power readings to HA, so the power seems to be alright.

Have I missed something?

Thanks!

Ordering all the parts, the PSU is what I want to get right, don't want it struggling when I unlock all the cores.

Hi everyone, I need some help. My AMD BC250 arrived and I was very excited. I even got a 650W power supply ready because I saw that it worked, but it didn't...

I connected the 4+4 pins of the 12V and made the jumper, but it still didn't start.

If I was a PC maker and seeing how popular the BC 250 has become, I would have made a new business model for selling PC hardware. The BC250 to a business owner is lost revenue. Another look at is the Steam machine. Steam should have just sold us a mother board with integrated memory and APU and we would have done the rest. When a BC 450 or something like it comes out is it going to be a dual use card or E-waste scavenger project?

I think the BC 250 is a really good thing and it is efficient. A MinisForum barebones AI X1 is $575.00...easy 1k when you add memory. Versus BC 250, 200 - 300 dollars (at the moment)

Another question. Is the BC-250 going to be a trend of more do it your self PC building or is this the one time deal and manufacturers learned their lesson not to make cards like this again?

As the title - I would like to join the discord community of BC250.

Got mine a few days ago and been messing with it. Started showing some graphical artifacts in the top left. I've taken the backplate off, but didn't replace the pads. Thought I tightened it down enough. Just got the heatsink with fans that's pictured, but this literally just popped up on the home screen.

I unlocked 40 CUs and 8 cores. Is this maybe bad CU's, instead?

Also, I know this shit is jank, but the temps are actually alright with the push/pull

Hello I setup a dual relay esp32 to control my bc250, the bc250 is shown booting up and displaying but for some reason the power supply trips off turning everything off

Does anyone know why?

Consegui deixar estável e vou passar um tempo só curtindo 6cores 3850mhz + 40cu 2000mhz rodando bazzite

Temperatura de CPU nao supera os 60 graus no furmark com 136fps no furmark em 1080p

VRM aparentemente nao está esquentando tanto, irei fazer um suporte para pressionar melhor eles no thermal pad, e colocar no gabinete para melhorar o resfriamento do backplate

Tive algumas instabilidades ao habilitar os 8c/16t, vou curtir um pouco assim e depois testo se mexendo nas tensões consigo estabilizar com os 8 nucleos

Consegui jogar GTA 5, RDR2, CS2 e até rodar o port de God of war 3 remastered do ps4 deixei os gráficos nativo e travado em 60fps, rodou muito liso e sem nem forçar demais da placa, sei pq a fonte quando exigida está com um Coil whine irritante kk

Estou usando ak400 c o suporte baixado do printables e pro VRM cortei dissipadores diversos que tinha aqui em casa

I have seen that many have recommended redoing the thermal paste and pads. Holy crap you were right! This stuff is like Play-Doh that's been sitting out in the sun for a couple of days! I'll be replacing the compound on the APU with PTM7950 and the pads with some 12.8W/mK pads. After some burn-in to get the phase change going, I hope I can go with some higher clocks because I was encountering thermal throttling. Fingers-crossed.

Hi everyone,

I decided to go with a PS5 so I'm putting this whole package up for sale, haven't used any of this as of yet.

I'm based upstate in Paris, Texas. so if you are around the Dallas area you're more than welcome to pick up if you'd like.

Or I can ship internally within America for extra.

Please feel welcome to send me a DM if you're interested.

CPU cooler is white.

Can be a bit flexible on price.

As I'm an international student in America, I use wise to bank here, or cash is okay on pickup.

Thx,

Jeremy.

Just gonna ask for help wiring my power button before I make assumptions and fry everything as someone who isn't an electrician. First pic is the wiring diagram provided for my button and second pic is what I'm looking at IRL. The diagram is throwing me because in this case the power source and the DEVICE are the same thing? I know wire 16 on the 24-pin is PC_ON, 18 is ground, and 10 provides 12V.

I went through your bc250 esp32 tutorial and it appears to be working kinda.

I don’t want the Bluetooth part and whenever I go to turn on my bc250 using my cases power switch it turns off after 10 or so seconds.

Would anyone know how to fix this? I’ve included a video in the post about it showing my issue.

Here’s the link to the tutorial I used as well

https://github.com/GreatApo/BC250_ESP32_ATX_PSU

Hi everyone.

Today I turned on my BC250 (with all cores unlocked and running the Bazzite OS), but unlike usual, the video output cut out after the Bazzite loading screen (the one with the circular loader).

I tried using an AI tool to help me—which was probably a foolish move—and after attempting countless things, it suggested resetting the BIOS by removing the battery. Now, I can’t even see the initial boot sequence anymore.

If I try to boot it with the SSD installed, the LED flashes twice slowly, followed by seven rapid flashes. Without the SSD, it doesn't flash at all, but there’s still no video output.

I’ve tried many different solutions, but nothing seems to work. Does anyone have any advice? I can run some tests if more details are needed.

What should I use to cool the back plate, do I leave it on. I will add putty to the ram, but I doubt a heatsink will fit if put the bc 250 on the side with an aqau elite dual fan1 1with a1 210m wide heat sink on the back plate.