Step 1: load Bambu perfectly rolled roll into AMS unit.
Step 2: watch as you press print button.
Step 3: watch as it tangles your filament up.
Step 4: error, filament tangled 👉👈🥺

What causes it to behave this way? The documentation provides little to say why this would be occurring.

Solved (mostly): it needs to be planted firmly on the rear bearing, not only touching.

Thanks peeps! I have another problem coming tomorrow with a normal sized spool and the 4->1 PTFE adapter converter not properly going through via AMS-HT.

I usually make my coasters out of oak, but last night I came up with this optical design idea, so printed it (my neighbors wouldn't have liked it if I turned on the CNC in the middle of the night 😂 )

Rate or hate my first 3D printed coaster! 😂

Sometimes I'm working on several projects, so I need to open several Bambu Studio instances just to have 2 projects open at the same time.. is that something doable in the current software? It would make it much easier for me and not having to scramble between different windows..

A couple weeks ago I was at a microcenter and picked up a .2 and a hardened.6 nozzle. I opened up the .2 today to find that it's filthy and used up.

Modeled this up for a wreathe my gf is making.. everything looked good after slicing, but after I sent it to the printer, the text disappeared .. or at least it’s not showing it..

Yes, I have "Just Googled It" and the result was this instructional video. Which makes things fairly simple.

However, a couple questions though:

1) Do I leave the printer off, or do I do this with the machine on?
2) Is there a menu selection I need to find to tell the machine that I am lubricating it? I don't want to force move the head of the printer and snap something, or whatever. Is there a way to - well, for the lack of a better way to phrase this - to disengage the print head to allow it free movement?

Thank you very much.

Kit Card: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454871

ChristmasCards Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/38032094

I just got myself a new A1 since I wanted to last-minute print out some stormtrooper armor for a Halloween event I plan to attend. I also heard they are notorious for catching fire or overheating. What can I do to keep myself safe if I want to print overnight or while I’m at work?

So excited to paint this!

what I attached is an exaggerated example to showcase how utterly useless the function is being, yes i tried making it smaller only on the parts i wanted, i tried activating "support only critical area", i even changed the support treshold angle to both 1 and a 99, absolutely nothing changed, arachne still doesnt recognize any differences too, im at an utter loss of words, someone pls help

Hey everyone!

I wanted to share my latest design that I just submitted for the MakerWorld Incense Design Contest. It’s a Yin Yang Zen Garden & Cone Incense Holder.

I noticed a lot of incense holders leave a mess of ash on the desk, so I designed a two-part modular system. It features an outer tray and an inner insert with fluid Yin Yang grooves. The cone incense holder is completely removable and is designed to act as an ash catcher to keep things clean.

If you use fine incense sand in the tray, you also have the option to skip the plastic holder entirely and place the cone directly on the sand for a more traditional, minimal look.

Multiple Sizes: I exported profiles ranging from 125mm up to 250mm in diameter. The 125mm to 175mm versions fit perfectly on the A1 mini build plate!

I’d love to hear your thoughts or feedback on the design. What filament colors would you use for this?

You can find the files and enter the contest here 👇

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454387-yin-yang-zen-garden-cone-incense-holder#profileId-3941074

Happy printing! 🍃

I'm getting an AMS either way, mainly so I have the option to print in color if I ever want to, even if it takes forever and wastes a bunch of filament. I'm just trying to figure out if a multi nozzle setup would be worth it on top of that.

If most multi color models are printed in one go, it probably is. If most are printed as separate parts and glued together after, the AMS is more than enough.

I've been browsing MakerWorld and I see a lot of models with both AMS and non-AMS versions, so I'm not sure what the norm is. From what you guys see which one is more common?

Hey there!

Weird thread, I am aware, but I have been looking forward to a new computer game for more than half a year now. When I found it it needed hardware that my old PC could not keep up with, I saved up to build a new gaming pc that could handle the game easily and last me ten years, hopefully.

Thing is... the game I build it for is a giant mess. It has about 1.5k bugs reported since its release at thusday and I am experiencing serious remorse for not only buying its deluxe edition, but also for spending 2.5k for a new rig that can handle it.

So.. I really don't see any use in having it anymore. I am severly disillusioned and regret not having chosen to spent the money on a bambu H2C instead, knowing I would get much more millage out of that maschine.

So.. yeah.. does anybody of you regret their H2C as much as I regret the PC? Willing to trade?
I am in germany.

Specs:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooling: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 - AIO
GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT
Ram: Patriot Viper Venom DDR5 32GB (2 x 16GB) 6000MT/s UDIMM
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B850-E Mainboard Sockel AMD AM5
Storage: SN850X NVMe SSD 2TB PCIe
Supply: CORSAIR RM850e (2025) ATX
Case: ANTEC P30 Air, schwarz
Also comes with a monitor: AOC Q27G4ZR 27 Zoll WQHD Gaming Monitor, 260Hz, Fast IPS Panel

So why did they go with a bowden extrusion solution when they already have this system implemented on the H2D. Would they really not be able to fit the tool head in the chamber? And if so, couldn't they make the printer a tad bit wider? Or is it keeping the same form factor for all their enclosed printers?

Should I wait for Black Friday? If it is like last year, some forums speculate it will be from 18th to 25th October, and I was wondering when the best time to buy it will be. I also have like 8k points to exchange for vouchers and gift cards. My concern is that it will be out of stock when I buy it. Either the gift card will be out of stock or the printer or filaments will be out of stock, or maybe both. I am planning to use the 8k points to exchange them for 1 discount voucher of 400 EUR and one gift card of 200 EUR. I have considered most of the options and found that buying it as a whole like this saves the most and is the most convenient. I am hoping to get like 20 EUR more off in the A2L combo (AMS Lite + cutter kit) and get about 20 EUR more off since the shipping price (only for the machine, not the filaments, I have tried putting them in the cart and checked) is 23 EUR so it would be nice to shave that off as well. But if the risk of running out of stock, or due to Black Friday logistics having more cargo to ship around, is high, there is a possibility of getting a damaged package (I also buy Worry-Free Delivery, but it might waste time or even be worse). So what do you think? How should I approach this? Buy now or wait to get 20 EUR ( about 22,47 us dollar) off? For context, one of my meals that is good, full, and with dessert is around like 2.5 to 3 EUR, so saving 20 EUR is like saving for 6 to 7 more meals - not that I am in a financial crisis or anything, but that is like a whole 3 - 4 days of food worth considering, you know (pic of a meal for further context at the end)

Hey, I’ve run into an issue. I was cleaning my printer after a "blob" (plastic buildup) that went really deep—it even got onto the cables. I managed to remove most of it without damaging the wiring, except for one cable, which appears to be connected to the nozzle temperature sensor. Does anyone know how I could fix this myself without damaging the rest of the printer?

Hi, Just to share my new workflow : I create the flag structure with fusion , then I add it in makerito.com , and in this tool I can add images and drawings easily to create 3MF. Then in bambu studio I just have to allocate blue to the part which name is blue , and same for others .

I have the three pair of tall towers. Each pair is connected to give each other side support and make it possible to reach the end of the print without falling over. The other on the right is the first one to get a layer and then it moved to the others. For some reason this first tower is having a very nasty seam and I don't know what to do.

I'm printing in PLA Pure Black in a X2D that has recently been oiled and lubed. The filament was dried for 12 hours at 45 degrees in my AMS Pro 2, with rotation.
I'm using outer/inner order of walls, 2 wall loops. I positioned the seam in the back but I also had to do some manual painting because of the automatic positioning.

Flow dynamics and ratio are of course calibrated.

It's really interesting to me that this is the very first spot where the complete layer starts printing and it looks like this. I've also set avoid crossing walls aiming to minimize stringing but didn't work so well.

I would appreciate any help possible. Thanks!

Where do I even get started...?

I am attempting to diagnose this error and keep coming up empty handed. Is the second picture my exhaust fan port? I am assuming I need to take the entire back off my printer to further diagnose my issue.

As mentioned in the title , I am hearing cliking sounds when the print head suddenly moves from the left to right. I did not notice anything like this ealier.