Currently on my 2 prototype and needs a few adjustments to piece to finish it.

I'm doing my best to print large format tpu, mostly a full body armour suit but having a nightmare with other designs.

I've designed this to incorporate a ptfe tube with plenty of slack to stop the roll from unwinding its self when the printer head accelerates.

I've printed of 3 other design so far with and without bears but all of them cause the spool to unwinding and gets caught up either on the roller, the spool or it 1 case the printer head its self, or there isnt enough slack on the filament which cause it to be pulled out of the feeder or jam up.

Either way I hope my bad cad skills can fix my issue.

Also went for an old industrial beam design and seems to be pretty strong overall.

Anyway if you read this far thanks !

Yes, I have "Just Googled It" and the result was this instructional video. Which makes things fairly simple.

However, a couple questions though:

1) Do I leave the printer off, or do I do this with the machine on?
2) Is there a menu selection I need to find to tell the machine that I am lubricating it? I don't want to force move the head of the printer and snap something, or whatever. Is there a way to - well, for the lack of a better way to phrase this - to disengage the print head to allow it free movement?

Thank you very much.

I'm getting an AMS either way, mainly so I have the option to print in color if I ever want to, even if it takes forever and wastes a bunch of filament. I'm just trying to figure out if a multi nozzle setup would be worth it on top of that.

If most multi color models are printed in one go, it probably is. If most are printed as separate parts and glued together after, the AMS is more than enough.

I've been browsing MakerWorld and I see a lot of models with both AMS and non-AMS versions, so I'm not sure what the norm is. From what you guys see which one is more common?

what I attached is an exaggerated example to showcase how utterly useless the function is being, yes i tried making it smaller only on the parts i wanted, i tried activating "support only critical area", i even changed the support treshold angle to both 1 and a 99, absolutely nothing changed, arachne still doesnt recognize any differences too, im at an utter loss of words, someone pls help

Hey everyone!

I wanted to share my latest design that I just submitted for the MakerWorld Incense Design Contest. It’s a Yin Yang Zen Garden & Cone Incense Holder.

I noticed a lot of incense holders leave a mess of ash on the desk, so I designed a two-part modular system. It features an outer tray and an inner insert with fluid Yin Yang grooves. The cone incense holder is completely removable and is designed to act as an ash catcher to keep things clean.

If you use fine incense sand in the tray, you also have the option to skip the plastic holder entirely and place the cone directly on the sand for a more traditional, minimal look.

Multiple Sizes: I exported profiles ranging from 125mm up to 250mm in diameter. The 125mm to 175mm versions fit perfectly on the A1 mini build plate!

I’d love to hear your thoughts or feedback on the design. What filament colors would you use for this?

You can find the files and enter the contest here 👇

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454387-yin-yang-zen-garden-cone-incense-holder#profileId-3941074

Happy printing! 🍃

Should I wait for Black Friday? If it is like last year, some forums speculate it will be from 18th to 25th October, and I was wondering when the best time to buy it will be. I also have like 8k points to exchange for vouchers and gift cards. My concern is that it will be out of stock when I buy it. Either the gift card will be out of stock or the printer or filaments will be out of stock, or maybe both. I am planning to use the 8k points to exchange them for 1 discount voucher of 400 EUR and one gift card of 200 EUR. I have considered most of the options and found that buying it as a whole like this saves the most and is the most convenient. I am hoping to get like 20 EUR more off in the A2L combo (AMS Lite + cutter kit) and get about 20 EUR more off since the shipping price (only for the machine, not the filaments, I have tried putting them in the cart and checked) is 23 EUR so it would be nice to shave that off as well. But if the risk of running out of stock, or due to Black Friday logistics having more cargo to ship around, is high, there is a possibility of getting a damaged package (I also buy Worry-Free Delivery, but it might waste time or even be worse). So what do you think? How should I approach this? Buy now or wait to get 20 EUR ( about 22,47 us dollar) off? For context, one of my meals that is good, full, and with dessert is around like 2.5 to 3 EUR, so saving 20 EUR is like saving for 6 to 7 more meals - not that I am in a financial crisis or anything, but that is like a whole 3 - 4 days of food worth considering, you know (pic of a meal for further context at the end)

Drop a seamless image (or pick one of 42 built-ins: tiger, zebra, marble, damask wallpaper…), shape the planter, and PLAST wraps the pattern around it with optional relief and exports a painted 3MF. Bambu Studio picks up the colors on import, and you just map them to filaments.

Disclaimer: I know this is a deeply ridiculous way to use an AMS. A zebra planter is basically ~1000 layers of “black, white, black, white”, so you’re looking at X number of filament swaps, days or insane hours, and a poop pile that could fill a second planter. I’m not saying you should, but I had to try it out.

Where it stops being silly is on toolchangers. With no purge between colors, the same model takes a fraction of the time. So if Bambu’s next machine swaps heads instead of filament, this goes from being silly to being useful.

Free, no account, runs in your browser, nothing gets uploaded: https://lebiro.studio/plast/

You can download and test some of the designs I also made with this here.

So I came across this Foaming TPU from Siraya Tech and I’m interested in trying to use it for printing pelican case inserts for equipment. Do anyone have experience using this and would be willing to share some insight. I would be using it on a P2S which I know they have profiles for, I would also most likely be running it through an AMS HT and want to know anyone’s experience using that with the TPU feed assist module if you have used that combo before with this kind of filament. Thanks!

Hi everyone,
Three days ago, I introduced my new modular AMS Flipper model here in this group. The way I released the model – partly for free on Makerworld and partly as a paid model – has led to confusion and frustration. That's not what I wanted.

Therefore I decided to make the model completely free on Makerworld.
So if you like the model, you can download it from there right away.

SFS - Modular AMS Flipper System | Collection - MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models

Sorry for that and happy printing 😊

I'm sure this doesn't sound right. All I've done is tightened screws and started calibration

My Bambu Lab A1 just stopped moving after the Print was finished and won't budge. Also for an extended amount of time, the screen on my A1 just froze during download or early printing (just wanted to point that out if it's important). I don't really know why or if that's a Problem but it's the first time this has happend. Is this a G-code problem that the tool head didn't go up? Or is it bc of my machine?

My new Customizable Name Clicker Keychain. It's super cute, quick print, and compact. Please comment if you like it 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3456833-customizable-name-clicker#profileId-3944160

This model of mine has a lot of support, and sometimes the slicer doesn't generate support there, so I need to paint some on, but I never had that support that didn't exist and started printing in midair.

Looking for a solution, I tried painting more supports and closing and reopening the slicer, but it didn't work. It also isn't a visual bug because when printed, the support starts printing in midair.

Update: I changed the support type, and now it works.

All day today my prints have immediately been failing and I can’t figure out what’s going on. I’ve cleaned my nozzle, cleaned my bed, done a cold pull, recalibrated, tried different filament, etc. but no matter what I do, this keeps happening.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey I seem to be having a problem with the extruder, it says that it may be clogged or filament too thin but I know it isn’t either so does anyone know if it’s possible for the extruder to be not lined up properly with the hole where the filament comes from?

Hey, I’ve run into an issue. I was cleaning my printer after a "blob" (plastic buildup) that went really deep—it even got onto the cables. I managed to remove most of it without damaging the wiring, except for one cable, which appears to be connected to the nozzle temperature sensor. Does anyone know how I could fix this myself without damaging the rest of the printer?

I have the three pair of tall towers. Each pair is connected to give each other side support and make it possible to reach the end of the print without falling over. The other on the right is the first one to get a layer and then it moved to the others. For some reason this first tower is having a very nasty seam and I don't know what to do.

I'm printing in PLA Pure Black in a X2D that has recently been oiled and lubed. The filament was dried for 12 hours at 45 degrees in my AMS Pro 2, with rotation.
I'm using outer/inner order of walls, 2 wall loops. I positioned the seam in the back but I also had to do some manual painting because of the automatic positioning.

Flow dynamics and ratio are of course calibrated.

It's really interesting to me that this is the very first spot where the complete layer starts printing and it looks like this. I've also set avoid crossing walls aiming to minimize stringing but didn't work so well.

I would appreciate any help possible. Thanks!

Hi, Just to share my new workflow : I create the flag structure with fusion , then I add it in makerito.com , and in this tool I can add images and drawings easily to create 3MF. Then in bambu studio I just have to allocate blue to the part which name is blue , and same for others .

I’m very much looking forward to getting my first 3D printer, just waiting for the P2S Combo to be discounted for Black Friday. One thing I’m a little concerned about is I want to have prints be safe for putting things that may touch food, or toothbrushes, etc. in/on but also I want access to the wider variety of filaments that comes from not limiting myself to PLA Pure. How big an issue is it if I, for example, use a non-food-safe filament for a toothbrush holder?