How do i get the bearing out of this plate? Was gonna get a new wheel bearing, but can’t get the old one loose.
Tried looking online at a new plate, so I could just change the plate and the bearing, but can’t find a spare online.
Any help would be great.

Edit:
It’s a Hyundai i10 1.1 2008 (67hk)

I recently just got oil change on my Tiguan 2023 at vw dealership within a week engine light turned on when driving home from work and then the engine started smoking. Pulled over right away and oil cap was missing and oil was everywhere. Got it towed to the dealership and waiting to hear back from them. Could it have been as simple as them leaving the cap loose or should I be concerned of something more severe?

I’ve got quite the conundrum on my hands and wondering if some smart folk here can help me.

I noticed my car running a bit sh*t. I thought I had a misfire but it appears I’m getting no combustion on cylinder 4 (when I pull coil plug and injector on 4 nothing changes at all)

•New Bosch plugs fitted

•I’ve swapped COPs over and changed the actual connectors over and still nothing on 4.

•I’ve swapped the injectors round and their plugs still no change.

•I’ve ran compression test and each cylinder is within 4psi of each other.

•I opened throttle plate and ran injector tests and can physically see fuel being atomised into the inlet runner

•I’ve checked resistance readings across plug 4 and it’s the exact same as the others.

It’s a NA 4 cylinder Z18XE running Maxxecu, ITBs are DBW off a Suzuki - had been running fine, only done a 100 miles since being mapped.

What am I missing?

There's a lot of conflicting information out there. I've been trying to look into this and I see a lot of used oil analysis, which is cool, but how do you know if a good used oil analysis means a good engine? I want to see an engine analysis, not an oil analysis, of many engines after following different intervals for at least 200k miles in "severe" driving conditions and see how they compare.

That doesn't sound feasible, but maybe it's been done?

I’m a home hobby mechanic getting started. I have a set of 1/4 and 3/8 sockets and drivers. Thinking of getting a 1/2” kit soon, keeping my eyes peeled for deals. My question is could I just buy an impact 1/2” set and use them with an impact wrench of course but also hand drivers. I’m not experienced enough to know this for-sure but I feel like when you need a 1/2” leverage or power, there’s usually enough space for an impact socket. And if there isn’t then I rip over to CT and buy a one off 1/2” chrome every blue moon.

Or maybe I’m overthinking it and I should just get the chrome set. Although it does seem like at 1/2 a lot of people just use impacts.

TLDR: how often do you find that you need 1/2” driving power/leverage and also find that your impact socket is too thick for the clearance around the bolt/nut?

Was driving around today and the car started losing power, stuttering on acceleration, etc. Scanned the car and coming up as a misfire on cylinder 4. I had issues with this cylinder before with the coil and spark plug and replaced them and all was well for a month. Same issue today, thought the coil took a crap. So I swapped it at AutoZone for a new one. Replaced. Started it up, cleared codes, drove it but still stuttering and the code came back. Swapped coil with cylinder 3. Cleared codes, drove it and still came back with cylinder 4. So coil isn’t the issue, spark plug is good (I haven’t swapped that one yet) but I’m assuming it’s good.

What else should I check for before dropping it off at the Machanic? I took images of the spark plug hole and spark plug. Am I overseeing anything?

The flange on the back of the cat to the pipe on my mom’s 2011 Honda pilot has separated. I don’t believe it’s broken, what’s the cheapest way to fix this even temporarily.

i bought a 2016 mazda3 i grand touring 3 weeks ago now and love it! 2.0L with a 6spd auto trans.

i noticed its been shifting hard for the last couple weeks. at first i chocked it up to not being used to an automatic, since my last car was a 0spd cvt. i checked the fluid level and noticed it was a bit high, and came back the next day to do it again to check the color with a white paper towel and its brown.

this was done at a mazda dealer in seattle for the 60k mile service. i’m assuming it was “compatible” red fluid. it had been driven 2k miles by the previous owner and 1.5k miles by me since service. i’m going to mazda today to get aft fz and do a drain and fill and am planning to do another one in about 10k miles

do you guys think i’ll be fine? is there anything else i can do to save the transmission?

EDIT: i double checked the carfax and it’s actually only been just under 3k miles. this was serviced exclusively at the dealership that sold it new and it was driven 6k miles a year. it’ll be racking up miles like crazy now tho since i commute for work

Hi guys,

I’m doing a brake job on my 2009 Pontiac Vibe. The rear has an incorporated e-brake system so I bought one of those cheap cubes that you stick on a ratchet and turn while trying to compress the piston. I got the left side no problem. Right side is giving me grief, I even cracked the bleeder screw and fluid comes out with each turn. I got these calipers replaced at the beginning of last year so I’d be extremely surprised if they seized already.

Any advice would be much appreciated

This was siphoned from my tank of my 2025 sorrento HEV. What kind of contamination does this look like? It’s standard 87 pump gas from a newer gas station in Central Florida.

I have a 2010 Corolla S with a 1.8 L engine 2ZR-FE.

I have had this slow oil leak for a while underneath my car that I have been wanting to fix for a while myself. I have basic knowledge of cars such as doing my own oil changes, some suspension work and fluid changes and etc but nothing too crazy. From checking it out myself and looking it up on the internet, I discovered that the oil leak was coming from the timing chain tensioner gasket which is apparently a common issue on this car. So I took out the tensioner and replaced the gasket and bolted it down to the right torque back into the car but I did have a “problem”( don’t know if this a problem), but the tensioner would always extend on its own as I was trying to get it bolted in there. Usually it just goes in and then you are supposed to turn the engine counterclockwise just a little until you hear a little click sound to let you know the tensioner has extended again. I still did this just to be safe but I didn’t think I heard a sound which makes sense cause mine kinda went in extended. Then I did the clockwise thing to see if everything felt normal and it did. However, when the car turned back on it made a really bad sound so I turned it off immediately.

Did some more research and found out I would have to take off the valve cover at this point to verify if the timing changed and etc so I called it a night and left it for the day. Came back the next day and saw that the tensioner had popped out and the studs had been broken in half at the part the nuts were connected to. So I had to use vice grips, to take out the remaining part of the stud from the engine block. Took off the engine valve cover to dig in deeper to which I am attaching pictures. I put the engine at 0 TDC using the crankshaft notch and the 0 on the timing cover. While I was manually turning the engine it does have cyclical patter of getting very hard to turn and then there is a click sound( don’t know if bad or normal) and then it gets easy to turn again and that just repeats. Now I guess I am jsut looking for more guidance on how to see if my timing is wrong or not now. At perfect 0 tdc it’s supposed to be where the hex parts on the shafts on both intake and exhaust are perfectly perpendicular to the cylinder head but they don’t seem to be so my conclusion is that it’s not properly aligned and timed. I just wanted yall’s opinion on what yall think and what I should do to be sure if it’s right or not. I am not opposed to taking out the timing cover off the side of the engine. But I don’t wanna do that if I don’t need to.

Sorry for my long winded post but am jsut a little frustrated. Replacing a gasket turned into a lot of additinal work.

07 Honda accord 2.4L has a little under 214k miles
Did a 2nd drain and fill with Honda ATF,had just a slight bit over 3 quarts drain out,had a good size spill from not moving the pan fast enough so I decided to put 3 1/2,once I got under I noticed a very slow leak from the drain plug so decided to just put the full 4 quarts,1st drain and fill I had 4quarts come out,well I shifted through gears and this is what came out on the dip stick,am I in the clear or is this too much and what should I do to fix it? I really don’t want to ruin my car,I do plan on doing a 3rd and last drain and fill in after about 500-1k miles. I haven’t driven it besides backing up off ramps and pulling into my drive way.

Thanks in advanced.

I have an 06 Ridgeline and I have noticed some wobbles at slow speed so I got under the car to do an inspection.

I found a torn boot on the cv axle on the drivers side, so I know I will be dealing with that.

I also found that this sound is happening during turns. The sound seems to be coming from the top part of the strut assembly. Do I have to replace the whole strut or is it possible its just one component?

I am very much a noob so if anything I said is totally wrong please call me on it.

Thanks!

Just curious to find out what yall have to say, this engine was hydrolocked when I bought it as a core at the shop I work for. I tore apart the bottom end and found a bent rod, is it worth replacing one or all the internals? Or would the block look better has a coffee table base?

Box came opened a little, package inside was too like it was dropped on the floor. Are the discs still okay to use? I need them to sort my car literally tomorrow/Sunday so I don't want to return them. Thanks!

I asked the mechanic to put on new rear brakes and he said he resurfaced the rotors also. Is this what they’re supposed to look like or did he charge me for nothing?

Hey everyone, I have a 2019 Hyundai Tucson 2.0L, and I'm having a weird issue with my AC.
When I leave my apartment in the morning, the AC works perfectly fine and blows cold air. My commute to work is about 25 minutes, and I get on the highway pretty much as soon as I leave home. The AC works fine while I'm driving on the highway, but as soon as I exit and stop at the first traffic light near my job, the AC stops cooling. The same thing happens on my way back home, and sometimes the AC won't even start cooling when I leave work.
I also noticed that my radiator/condenser fan doesn't seem to be working properly on high speed. I tried replacing the high-speed fan relay, but that didn't fix anything.
Could the fan issue be causing the AC problem, or could it be something else like the fan motor, compressor, pressure sensor, or refrigerant issue?
I'd like to diagnose this myself if possible before taking it to a mechanic. What should I check first, and is there a way to test the fan and AC system at home with basic tools?
Has anyone experienced something similar with their Tucson? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Is this normal (about 5° of backlash) for this Fiat E.TorQ engine integrated power steering and water pump unit with keyed connection between both units?

My truck had been throwing that code, even put that cat clean stuff in it, so i took it to a muffler shop for a diagnostic to make sure its the cat. They said its working as intended, no issues. Could it be oxygen sensors or something else? Truck has 256k miles, V6, in good shape despite year and mileage. Muffler has been replaced with a CAT back Borla.

Rebuilding a 1991 Mercedes w124.

It's the joint between the driveshaft shock absorber and the transmission output shaft.

I'm changing the shock abs thats connected to it because it looks worn out but this one doesnt look so bad even if it's 30 years old.

It costs around 80€, it's not too expensive but at the same time it's not cheap and also I don't know if I trust more an OEM from the 90s or a modern day aftermarket.

OEM new is probably super expensive so I'm even more dubious about that.

Hey all, I have a bit of an odd problem here. Sorry it’s a long one!

It is a 2017, Peugeot 3008 - I think the engine is a PSA BlueHDi, but I don’t know much about cars. It’s a 1.6l diesel with AdBlue - the 8th digit of the VIN is Z. I hope that’s enough to go by, but please let me know if there’s anything else I can check if that’s not enough info.

To the problem. I drove the car around on Sunday no problems, then when I needed to drive it on Monday, it wouldn’t start. No clicking when I turn the key…just, no sound at all.

I have attached images of the errors that come up when the car won’t start. I haven’t been able to get an image of one particular message as it pops up so quickly and disappears and I’ve not been able to make my car not work since to grab a video. It’s something in relation to the parking brake but I honestly can’t remember what else it says.

The things that I’ve done so far:

- All of the above problems on Monday, until the evening when it would start working again, so I took it around the block.
- Tested with multimeter with engine running and is charging at 14V.
- Neighbour brought home diagnostic tool from work and all tested fine (though the car was able to start at this point).
- I had the battery replaced on Thursday (because I couldn’t get into a garage and I absolutely needed my
car for Friday, so I took a punt on a battery issue).
- I drove the car 20mins each way that evening no problem.
- Get ready to leave Friday, car won’t start. It did eventually after 5/6 tries, but I didn’t trust that it would get me back on Sunday as it’s over 3 hours away, so I abandoned my plans.

Each time it doesn’t start, the same errors come up (in the order I’ve uploaded them, if that’s at all helpful).

Now here’s a weird thing (probably not to you, though). Normally my wing mirrors pop out when I unlock the car but, when the car won’t start, they stay in. So I basically know whether or not it’s going to start based on whether they pop out when I unlock the car.

If anyone has any clue what could be going on, that would be amazing. I can’t get my car to a garage until late next week but in the meantime I’m hoping to have an idea what it could be/how much to prepare to pay. If there’s any other information or tests for me to do to help diagnose, please let me know and I’ll report back.

Thanks!

i bought an arp thread chaser specifically to clean out my head bolt threads. the problem is that its actually cutting a bit of material off the threads. i took a regular head bolt and it threaded in fine and it is snug. would this be ok or should i not continue with the other bolt holes?