Wanted a corner desk with a good amount of storage space and decided to do some DIY:ing. I'm really happy with how the wallpaper peeks out from the sections I left more open and that the big one in the middle fits both of my monitors. Kind of overshot it with the "main" tabletop's depth with the Kallax so I might saw it down a bit in the future. We'll see.

As for the top parts, I know they won't be as stable. I have a couple of Ramshult brackets that I'm probably gonna use to reinforce them a bit. Other than that, I'm planning to use that space for smaller knickknacks like photos and not anything really heavy.

Parts used:

Kallax 5x5

Two longer spare part boards from a 2x2 Kallax

Two Lakgapten 120x60 cm table tops

Two Olov adjustable table legs

Two packages of Inlägg connection fittings

(One Alex bedside drawer to use instead of legs & get some MORE storage)

(Probably 2 or 3 Ramshult brackets to reinforce the top shelves so they don't start caving)

Of course we love the oversized cork that comes with this set, but this works great too, and is a fraction of the price of similar sets.

I wanted pegboard in places where a full IKEA Skadis board doesn't fit, so I designed one that prints in a single piece on a 220×220 mm plate.

It uses the standard Skadis slot pattern, so regular IKEA hooks, shelves and containers fit. Print as many as you need and mount them side by side.

A few details:

- Prints flat in one piece, no supports

- Print it face-down on textured PEI and the front comes out looking clean

- Wall spacers in two heights are included. The tab clicks into a slot and centers the spacer, then you screw straight through with a 4×50 mm screw

- Use at least 3 spacers per board

- About 4.5 hours and 150 g of PETG per board

PLA works fine, but I'd go with PETG for heavier tools or a warm garage.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3419000-skadis-compatible-pegboard-220x220mm-wall-spacer

Feedback is welcome, especially on the spacer fit. Happy to adjust if something is too tight or too loose.

Decided to do the pax hack - took forever. I’m not new to DIY, but probably bit off more than I could chew with this. 4.1m in length, stud frame for panels and very uneven walls, which took a lot of scribing. Now Ready for filling, caulking and painting to complete it.

Will not be trying this again, however my wallet is thankful I didn’t spend 4x the price to get a bespoke fitted wardrobe built.

Hacked this Besta/Kallax unit together today with bits and pieces I had on hand. Used the shelves as structural supports, cut them to fill the bigger gaps. Functions as a display cabinet for family photos, memories etc. Held together mostly with timber decking screws. Thing is as solid as a rock 😂 I used white hot glue to fill the seams and cover exposed screw heads (thats all I had on hand), will go back over it with gap filler or sickaflex in the future if I need. Hole saw to run the fairy lights through the unit, hung them with glue. Was a fun project recycling a shelf that was destined for the rubbish bin, didn't cost me anything, fuctions quite well, made it work with what I had 😆😆 what do you all think, love or hate the assymetry? Good use of space?

What says on the tin, I recently bought a LACK table to put in my living room with the purpose of drawing and painting on it and generally use it as an alternative work desk while sitting on the floor or on a pillow. It's way too tall however and I can't comfortably draw on it. Can it be cut safely or are replacement table legs available? How would I go about doing the former?

(cat for scale and aesthetic)

A friend managed to break the glass globe on her ÅSKMÜLLER lamp, and since the original glass is so fragile, I figured a lot of people might be in the same boat.

I modeled a dead-simple replacement shade meant to get the lamp back up and running. It’s a slightly different profile than the original glass, but it prints cleanly with minimal supports and diffuses the light nicely so you aren't staring directly at a bare bulb.

Recommend using Transparent PLA or PETG.

Looking for some hacks to create a free standing wall anchored vertically for a 65” width. The goal is to create a walk-in mud area in our open concept home. Ideally has elevated feet to clean under it since it’s an entrance.

Looking for some inspiration!

We will be hosting my partner's side of the family overnight during the holidays this year. One of our guest rooms has 2 bunk beds. As seen in the picture, the ladders are currently facing each other. My plan is to rotate both bunk beds 180° and push them together. Pretty sure this would create a king bed? It will create some sort of gap, but I'm not sure how much of a gap there will be and if there is something I can use to bridge them together?

I understand this wont work for the top bunks, just wanted to see if I could create a larger bed for the bottom.

Adding legs to a STORKLINTA 6-drawer dresser and buying wood before I build it. If you have one, could you measure:

•Height of the base strip under the bottom drawers
•How far the sides and center divider stick out below the bottom panel
•Thickness of the bottom panel (floor of the bottom drawer)
•Thickness of the center divider

Thanks!

As I live in a small appartement instead of bying a normal table, I decide to do this type seen on aliexpress, but cheaper, I cut in half a kallax 1x2, because I didn't found any other ikea product with this size and matching color, for the height diference I just use some plywood I had from previous project, unfortunetly I have done bad choice and had no other choice to put the screw from top plate, I need to paint it to cover it,

the half kallax needed some weight and solidity so I put some plywood in it and mostly a mix of cardboard paste and wood glue turn out so solid I could screw in it and it stay

don't mind the inside kallax 2x8, it's just some shit

the ugly part is not visible in the photo btw but Im upset about those side

part:

• 1*ikea kallax 2x8 second hand
• 1*ikea kallax 1x2
• 2*Ikea LINNMON (desk plate ) they have like 10cm of solid plywood on both extremity witch is perfect for screw
• 2*ikea Tärnö folded on the side
• 1*90 degres rotating hinge
• 2*Door Hidden hinge

I've ordered an underframe for my horizontally-oriented 2x4 KALLAX unit. I read oodles of comments on the IKEA website describing eventual sagging of the shelving after installing the underframe, frequently due to a tiny gap (see picture) between the KALLAX and its steel base.

1. To help prevent sagging, I'm planning to install some plastic spacing shims between the two pieces. Please, how many millimeters is that tiny gap?
2. What is the material of the threaded foot which contacts the floor? Is it metal?

Thanks!

I had this frosted lamp around (I frosted it with a spray can) and some leftover clean baking sheets. I like the effect, maybe some of you do as well. I might have to shove it a bit more around in there to get a better gradient though.

I have this glass pumpkin and I want to turn it into something useful. Looking for possible inspo or people I can copy lol

It’s not perfect but it works well.

So we bought a Jättesta set for our living room (each of the shelves being 80x40x195 cm), but it felt too short against the wall.

Then we found out on the website that there's an Enhet 'ground' shelf sized 40x40 (it can't be found in stores, at least in my country, has to be ordered), so we hanged two of them over each Jättesta shelf, as close as possibile to the ceiling. (I used my old CD collection to hide the gap, lol. Also, those Enhet are probably not meant to be up there, so we went easy with the load.)

And since we had gotten used to the Enhet set, we used another Jättesta 80x40x195 - Enhet 40x49x60 - Enhet 40x15x75 combo on the other wall. The 15cm depth is PERFECT for holding CD/DVD, whereas the 75 height fit beautifully both with the 60cm tall Enhet and with the Jättesta, needing only a bit of finetuning.

As title says. TV is 65 in. Need more clean solution to fit everything nicely.
Problems: ugly speaker stands, pc, PlayStation, current cabinets is wayy to small for that.

big thanks for recomendations <3

I really like the brown walnut effect of the EKET and I’ve been playing around with different ways to use it as a floating TV console.

The screenshot is one layout I came up with, but I’m not necessarily set on that exact configuration. I’m mainly looking for other ideas I might not have considered.

I need to accommodate a PS5, Nintendo Switch, and Nvidia Shield while keeping everything looking clean and giving the consoles enough airflow. I definitely want to keep the PS5 horizontal.

Almost every floating TV console setup I see has everything completely enclosed, so I’m not sure if people just don’t have gaming consoles or if there are other ways of handling this that I’m missing.

I’m okay with drilling holes in the wood and cutting the back board if needed, but I’m not the most handy person and don’t have a lot of tools, so I’d prefer to keep any modifications fairly simple.

Has anyone done something similar with EKET, or have any other configurations or ideas you’d recommend?

Oben TERRSJÖ Front, unten VOXTORP. Verblendet mit Eichenholzplatten

Hi, I'm looking to add some LED lighting to my Besta display cabinet. Currently researching and ready for a Prime Day purchase.

I'd like to have an LED strip or bar light in each of the glass shelves (2nd pic), and run the cables as hidden as possible. Not interested in the puck lights. The power outlet is located in the far lower right corner behind the drawer. I already cut a hole in the back panel for access.

• What are some suggested solutions you've all used? I'm thinking of running 2 lines: first to the middle 2 cabinets and then on to the 3 left side cabinets, then the 2nd line just up the right side 3 cabinets.
• Would it be possible/recommended to stick the light strips to the inside of the doors, or on the bottom of the upper shelf?
• Everything is already securely anchored to the wall, so I would prefer to not rip it all out to start drilling holes for the wires, but I realize it's a distinct possibility to achieve the look I want. Doing so would also give me a chance to correct some of the smaller mistakes.
• All units are screwed together. Would separating them to run wires and then screwing back together deteriorate the overall integrity?
• What's the recommended approach? I'm not convinced that the Ikea LED light kits would work for my need, so I've been toying with the idea of a Govee Light Strip 2, or something similar. Never worked with LED strips, so would I be able to cut a segment, stick it in, then wire through to the next cut up segment, having them run in series? Would an LED bar in each cabinet be a better idea?
• How to control it all? If I run 2 lines, can I use a power dock of some sort to turn it all on together? I'm not opposed to needing an app, but a single dedicated remote would be a better idea, I think.
• How about the center shelf? I think recessed puck lights would look much better here. It doesn't need to be super bright, more accent lighting for whatever is displayed.

I'm open to any and all suggestions. A walkthrough video or article tutorial would also be great. I've been scouring Reddit, Youtube, and Google Search for awhile now and some ideas, but please give me more. I do have a reasonably well equipped workshop and some basic handyman DIY skills. Plus a desire to learn and do it right.

I designed the (what i think is the) flattest possible Bilresa case.

It uses four magnets as hinge and to center the switch.

Pretty easy and fast to print.

You can find the STL on foldedbinaries.com if you wanna try it out

I don't have enough floor space for a bookshelf that is on the floor, so one of my thoughts was to use the Lack shelves.

A manga usually weights on average 180 grams (paperback) and is 1,2-2cm wide (on average I would say 1,4cm). So on one shelf could fit about 71 (probably a bit less) mangas, that would mean it would weight about 13kg on one shelf.

So is it ok to put 13kg on one of them, do note, that it will be mounted to a concrete wall and not wood (Not sure if a concrete wall is better for this).

Since I use the 30cm lack shelves to connect the 110cm I would have a 30cm gap and i am unsure if this will look good.

Other than if there is a better way of doing this or a better design/placement, please let me know

Is there any way to make these 2 sofas play nice together? the armrest makes one of the seats useless so maybe a way to not use the armrest but not have the side exposed??

These are the sofas

https://www.ikea.com/ie/en/p/friheten-corner-sofa-bed-with-storage-skiftebo-dark-grey-s09133543/

https://www.ikea.com/ie/en/p/friheten-three-seat-sofa-bed-skiftebo-dark-grey-10341150/

Edit to add: the brown dresser next to the TV unit is actually a fireplace 🔥

Wanted to create a dedicated and compact retro gaming station that could be closed when not in use. Inspired by old school computer desks.

• All wood is from extra IVAR shelves (discount corner <3)
• Top shelf has a USB power COB LED strip, with the cable embedded in the shelf's side, routed through the back and into a cutout to the computer. Completely invisible!
• USB cable for the light is hooked up to a momentary door switch, so only turns on when the doors are open!
• The cabinet sits on slats, which are then mounted to the brackets,. This is so it could sit flush with the IVAR frame sides (giving the doors space to fully open)
• The keyboard drawer sits on regular drawer sliders, a finger groove was routed in the front to make it easy to pull out
• Added small horizontal support slats to the sides, so the game cases don't fall through.

Tools used:

• Circular saw
• Drill
• Router with profile bit

Depending on the level of detail you want, this is pretty straightforward to do. Hope this inspires a side project ☺️