In Pennsylvania, for diesel vehicles we have a visual yearly inspection for emissions related equipment. Due to this, a shop will inspect my vehicle every year to confirm if the dpf is there or not. If not, the vehicle will fail inspection. Does anyone know of a delete kit that will look stock?
Edit:
2014 Jetta TDI - 40k miles, everything currently works just looking to change things out before it becomes an issue.

Hi guys, as titled I'm looking for an A7.

Preferences:

• Lower miles (under or around 100k)
• Any color other than white
• Brown interior
• Driver Assistance Package

If anyone has one they're interested in selling, please PM me

Hey everyone,

I'm looking at purchasing a 2014 Volkswagen Touareg TDI Sport with the 3.0L V6 diesel, currently sitting at approximately 124,400 miles.

I've been researching these engines pretty heavily, and one of my biggest concerns is the timing chain/tensioner system, particularly the brief rattling or chain slap some owners report immediately after startup.

I've watched videos of these engines making a rattling noise for a second or two before quieting down, but I'm seeing mixed opinions on whether that's fairly normal hydraulic tensioner behavior or an early warning of an expensive timing chain repair.

A little background on the Touareg I'm considering:

- 2014 Touareg TDI Sport, 3.0L V6 diesel

- Approximately 124,400 miles

- Asking $12,500 plus a $490 dealer fee

- Two previous owners

- Clean CARFAX with no reported accidents

- 16 reported service records

- Oil changes documented around 97k and 107.5k miles, though the history may not be complete

- DPF/catalytic converter replaced around 85.5k miles

- No documented timing chain or tensioner replacement

I'm planning to inspect the vehicle and specifically request a completely cold startup so I can listen for any chain noise. I haven't confirmed that this particular vehicle has the rattle yet.

A few questions for those familiar with these engines:

1. Is a brief 1–2 second rattle on startup relatively common on the 3.0 TDI, or should any noticeable chain slap be considered a red flag?

2. Have any of you experienced startup chain rattle and continued driving for tens of thousands of miles without issues? Or did it eventually require replacement?

3. Is there a reliable way to check timing chain wear or tensioner health with VCDS or OBDeleven on this particular engine?

4. How do you distinguish actual timing chain/tensioner noise from normal diesel injector clatter or other startup noises?

5. For anyone who has had the timing chains and tensioners replaced, what did the repair end up costing?

6. If you were looking at buying a 2014 3.0 TDI with 124k miles, would a brief startup rattle automatically make you walk away, or would you consider it depending on the severity and diagnostic results?

I'm mechanically inclined and comfortable inspecting vehicles myself, but I also understand that timing chain work on these engines can become an extremely expensive repair.

I'd really appreciate opinions from actual Touareg, Q7, Cayenne, or other 3.0 TDI owners, especially anyone who's dealt with this firsthand.

Thanks!

TL;DR: Is brief startup chain rattle normal on a 2014 Touareg 3.0 TDI, or a major red flag?

My 2014 Passat is only blowing hot air on the driver side so I’m assuming the heater core needs to be replaced. Not sure what this would cost.

Looking at getting a 2011 Sportwagen with 130k miles on it, timing belt and water bump done at 100k miles and is tuned and deleted(no clue where the tune is from) , no clue on any dsg services done but if I got it I’d run new fluids and service everything , what are some things I should look for when I go to look at the vehicle,or questions to ask? I’ve been sent videos and sounds like it runs good,

hi there fellow diesel enthusiasts I'm swapping slowly but surely a 1.9 ALH into my 1988 ford ranger and i'm running into slight issues. The OEM engine mount are going to be removed cause they are in the way but the alternator is in the way of my cross member and don't really want to cut it out. My question is, is there a different style bracket on the ALH that relocates the alternator or is there alternators that are slimer? I also have the vacuum pump pretty much up against the fire wall but that I'm prob gonna beat it up with love lol.

mind you this shit is not nice to work on currently because I'm in the elements, in the dirt with no space , one van(asshole mom bf made sure to get as close as possible) barely a feet from my truck and trees and plants on the other side. I'm looking for a shop or a place to stay with a shop(or even land) which is mission impossible they deny you as soon as they learn of your hobbies.

anyways look at all that space! any info is usefull!

Hi everyone,
I have a 1.6 TDI (CAYC) that triggers DPF regenerations on almost every drive (even after leaving the highway, it stops and starts again shortly after or right after parking). 

What has been done / checked:
- New / bench-tested and calibrated injectors (smooth running/injection quantity deviations are spot on in VCDS). 
- New G450 differential pressure sensor (properly adapted).
- No boost/intake leaks and no power loss.
0 fault codes stored in ECU (Check Engine light is off). 

At the end of a regeneration, the soot values look completely OK/low, but within a very short distance the measured soot (⁠Soot mass measured⁠) spikes again quickly (6.1 g measured vs 1.6 g calculated), triggering another regen cycle. 

VAG DPF / OBD live data symptoms:
⁠ - DPF Differential Pressure⁠ reaches 27.2 hPa while driving. 
- Unstable at idle: sometimes it reads between 6 and 10 hPa, other times it jumps above 10–15 hPa for no obvious reason.
- Accumulated ash (⁠Oil ash residue⁠): 25.25 g. 

Has anyone experienced this unstable differential pressure behavior at idle? Could it be a DPF core physically clogged with real ash, clogged/condensate-filled sensor pipes, or an EGR valve glitch?
Thanks in advance!

Should I do this or just stick to originally equipment type components?

Hey team, my dad just bought a 2011 Sportwagen TDI and its low pressure fuel pump went out. I was able to replace the pump for him but we need VCDS to prime the rail/high pressure pump. My dad is on a fixed income and a shop is rather out of the question budget wise. But If anyone in the Denver area knows a good mobile VW mechanic or wants to make a little loot from just coming and cycling the fuel pump for me, it would be much appreciated.

And yes I, know that they are expensive cars to maintain and that my dad should probably just drive a Honda, but boomers dad’s gonna boomer/not listen.

2010 golf tdi - couple of months ago glow plug light flashing along with traction light, car went into limp mode then wouldn’t start.

Scanner read P034100 camshaft position sensor - implausible signal, took it to a garage where they replaced cambelt and sensor, they said they maybe thought something was wrong with the thing the sensor plugs into, so they taped it together.

All was well for a couple of weeks, today I drive 10 minutes in my car and then the glow plug light, traction light and limp mode happened again. Car is starting this time though. Turned engine off and let it sit for 15 minutes, then drove another 5 minutes and no limp mode.

Please can someone help me understand what this can be? I’m not good with cars and all of this is causing me so much stress because I don’t know what to do.

I have a 82 rabbit with an NA 1.6. I'm going to have the head off and have some questions before going into the build.

I am wondering if ARP 204 4706 studs will fit the NA block like they do the turbo blocks.

Also curious if anyone has had any luck with other head gaskets on the 1.6 NA blocks, my understanding is it's fairly common replace the cork head gaskets with MLS on the turbo motors, so I'm curious if anyone has done the same with the NA motors.

I would also like to upgrade the rods and am wondering if maxspeeding rods will change the compression ratio to that of the turbo motors, given that there's no distinction between turbo and NA rods, the aftermarket rods are all just sold as MK1 diesel rods.

​

What does the duty cycle of 48 % tell tried looking in to it and guess it should be under 10 at operating temp.

01 1.9 tdi ALH

I only found 2 aluminum specs like the one in the first pic, the rest of the filter is clean or has very small fiberous looking debris.

It has started doing it last 10k miles

So before I pull the trigger on this alh swap, I wanna be ok with where the intercooler sits. I’m not a huge fan of the side OR front mounted setup tbh. I’d like to run lower fog lights and I don’t think a SMIC would do a very good job with a projector blocking all air, and the fmic protruding through the lower grille would bother ts out of me

Conveniently, I do have the intercooler from my Passat that was totaled via deer, not 100% where it sits in those cars, as my condenser and rad stayed behind with the deer…. But has anyone done something like this? Just spitballing

Hello,

I have noise only ar cold start, the v belt it is changed also the tensioner.

Shall I make the timing belt?

Or could be the alternator pulley.

Year it is 2022 and the km.are 153 k km

Please see the attached video

Hi everyone, I’m trying to locate the ECM/ECU power supply fuse and relay on my 2014 VW Jetta TDI 2.0 CJAA.
I’ve attached pictures of both fuse boxes. Can someone please identify the exact ECM fuse and relay locations in these pictures?
Thanks in Advance

'13 Q7 TDI

Long story short, had a slight oil leak from the oil filter cap which may have led to the serpentine belt coming off.

I cleaned it up, fixed the leak and put on a new belt and noticed it was tracking off the tensioner. It wasn't coming off but it was a good maybe 4mm off the tensioner.

I replaced a bad grooved plastic idler pulley that was obviously bad. Belt still tracked.

So I replaced the two smooth pulleys and the tensioner and the belt didn't track off as much but it was noticeably better.

I checked the harmonic balancer and it had a very slight wiggle/play so I just put on a new one with washer and new bolts.

The belt still tracked slightly on the tensioner, appx 1 mm overhang. See picture.

I've since put maybe 25 miles on it and I dont see it coming off any more. Is this good? I've never looked at the belt/tensioner to see where it sat before just a little sus since its overhanging just slightly.

Most of the time it only takes one or two turnovers before the engine starts but sometimes it takes 6 or 7. The threads ive read so far have alot of people pointing to the battery as the problem, and many ppl say this is very common with this car/engine. Is there a good replacement lithium battery that might give some extra juice for cold starts? Pic related is the inspection battery report from the dealership i bought it from.

I recently started hearing the consistent diesel clunk, could someone tell me if it is real or if im going insane?

For context, i bought this Audi A3 with the CFFB engine 2 month ago, i’ve driven it for around 7k km wince then, it has 137k km total. I’ve had a diesel before, so im fairly familiar that they are loud clunky, but this feels like theres this constant clunk that i hear, esp in the cabin, that doesnt sound normal. I tried to record it as best as i can, mic did pick it up, but its not as clear as irl. Also, it runs fine, and only audible on idle

Have a p2478 and p2459. Got the pre turbo charger EGT sensor otw. Was wondering if I should expect any curveballs or if that should fix it. Any experience with this would be much appreciated

What’s a realistic private-party value for my 2011 Jetta SportWagen TDI 6MT? 177,000 miles

I’m looking for an honest estimate of what my car could sell for once the listed repairs are complete. I understand that money spent doesn’t automatically translate into resale value, so please be blunt.
I bought it seven years ago at 59,000 miles for $10,500. I’ve invested over $30,000 in maintenance, repairs, and upgrades during my ownership. My goal is to recover what I paid for it—ideally $15,000 or more—but I’d like realistic feedback.

Work and modifications: Work was performed by Volkswagen, except for the Rawtek delete kit. OEM Volkswagen parts were used for mechanical repairs.
- Timing belt and water pump replaced about 7,000 miles ago
- Stock replacement turbo installed within the last 1,000 miles
- A/C condenser, intercooler, and radiator replaced within the last 1,000 miles
- New slave cylinder within the last 1,000 miles
- Stage 2 tune and full Rawtek DPF/EGR delete kit
- Heavy-duty skid plate
- Aftermarket wheels
- Upgraded projector/LED headlights
- Integrated Diode Dynamics LED pods for the foglights and roof lights
- Heated seats, ceramic 20% tint, and heated blue blind-spot mirrors

Condition and use:
- No check-engine codes
- Interior is exceptionally clean; the headliner is beginning to sag. Upgraded OEM look headunit with Carplay
- Structurally straight
- Roof paint/clearcoat is faded
- Firestone WeatherGrip tires have excellent remaining tread
- Very capable on dirt, rock, sand, BLM roads, and National Park roads
- Has traveled extensively throughout the West and performs well above 10,000 feet
- Averages about 600 miles per tank
- What would you estimate as a fair private-party value?

How much do the 6-speed manual, documented maintenance, skid plate, and modifications affect the price? Does any of this add meaningful value to the right buyer?

Is recovering what I paid for it—$10,500—or ideally getting $15,000 or more realistic? Or am I overestimating the resale value of the work I’ve put into it?

I’m doing the heater core on my 2001 Jetta alh gls, I’ve got everything out except the box I have the full box that is NOT split, I have the two heater core side nuts off now I’m to the ac side ones do I have to disconnect the ac system to get the nuts off and if not do I have to disconnect it to move the box back enough to swap the heater core. My system has refrigerant in it now and I have no access to a machine

Hello all,

I’ve got a 2008 vw scirocco 2.0 tdi CBDB.
Had a fault for fuel rail pressure sensor, replaced the sensor and tried to bleed to system. I don’t have vcds so I hot wired up both the intank pump and auxiliary pump and ran them for 60 seconds before trying to start which I believe is the same thing that happens through vcds when bleeding the fuel system.

Still just cranking over and wouldn’t start, also removed the sensor and cranked the car just to check and fuel is getting to the rail.

Any one have any ideas on what to do next?

I have a 2012 Vw Jetta sportswagen 2.0 tdi equipped with the 6 speed manual, it has roughly 164000 miles, it’s been a while since I checked, I got it from my brother who got it from marketplace, now it had been sitting for 6 months when I got it running and driving and drove it for a month or so and then got my truck back and it sat some more on my driveway for 2 months before I decided to switch back to it, I had gotten it signed back over to me and insurance under my name and I was driving it uphill and I was at about 3600 rpm and the cars engine shut off, I had the radio all the way up and everything went off, I thought maybe I bumped the key and I tried to start it with the trans and it did nothing, I pulled over and tried to start it but all it did was spin over, the starter died and I then got towed home, I checked it for metal contamination in the little tray on front of the engine not the filter and I saw no glitter, I hooked it up to a obdii scanner not made for Vw but threw no code, anybody have any idea what could have caused it to shut off and then just turn over but not start

I thought I was only dealing with P0278. But I had EGR codes Nox sensor amd DPF. Checked the particles data and they were at 30g+ so I forced a regen. First attempt failed because I attempted to drive while on forced regen lol coil light started flashing (limp mode) and regen failed so I started another forced regen which was successful but engine started to rough idle. Drove the car for 10min then it went back to normal for now and I cleared all the codes.

P0278 code popped back. I also have leaky valve cover gasket (bad). Can a simple injector reseal fix the P0278 or I should by a used injector just incase since I have been driving with this code for a long time over 6 months.

Also the timing belt is at -7.29° don't wanna spend the money on fixing it. I woulf rather buy a low mileage used engine. Current mileage is 193000 miles 2016 Touareg TDI 3.0