I am on my 3rd month as a new car salesperson with no experience at all. My first month I sold 5 cars, my second month I sold 6. My current month I’m at 3.5 cars. Ive been running into an issue where I get a customer and for some reason I can’t go anywhere with them. So I will go inside and look for another salesman with actual experience to turn to. However as of lately no other salesman will take the turn at all. And management is getting upset with me, as they are seeing customers leave and I’m the loser of it.

I have been feeling a cold shoulder from management and have suspicions I’m on the chopping block. But idk if I’m lost in my head or where I can start with fixing myself.

Thank you

Ps. I have worked a majority of my days off, as I want to make sure I have the most chances possible

I currently have a 2025 Toyota Camry LE all-wheel drive with 38,000 miles on it. Paid around $30-$35,000. How can I sell my car, or rather, what is the best way to go about selling my car to ensure I get the highest value for it. It’s nothing to do with there being issues internally nor is all banged up on the exterior. I’ve never sold a vehicle myself before, so this process is all new to me.

Learning lesson for sure. Bought a car from someone who is personally recommended. Found out later, they jumped title, has rust, rolled odometer, and lied about car history.

Car runs really well, no lights, in decent shape. Only want 1500, but Id rather not put someone in same position I was put in.

Dealerships and cash for cars type business are literally offering me 100-500.

Today at my dealer, I received a phone up and it was a robot. It was an obvious AI assistant, and it was so weird having to converse with a “human” AI bot. It was asking basic questions about inventory availability, incentives, best price, etc. I asked for it to provide me a phone number to contact the person interested and it gave me their name, number, and even gave me the names of other dealers they’re shopping and the stock numbers to the vehicles they’re looking at. It was overall an extremely eerie experience, people are worried about AI taking our jobs while we have to worry about AI leads now I guess. Have any other salespeople experienced any AI shoppers like this? It’s like I blinked and AI has taken over everything.

I have a 2023 Mazda CX9 with 25K miles in good condition. Carvana would give me $25K. The used car dealer offered me $20K and could only move another $1K. I would have settled for $22.5K. The rep told me that I'd likely get $27K privately. KBB and comps are on par.

I thought I would get a higher value at a used car dealership because they could prep it (this one had a service arm), put it back on their lot, and sell for $28/29K. I know the $6K margin isn't guaranteed, but it doesn't feel like a lot of work for even half that. Yet, they wouldn't budge and referenced they had to call their buyer, and would send to auction, and etc...

For a new car dealership, I get the auction route, but a used car dealership? When you get a 3yo vehicle, why offload in an auction? I had in my head that most used car dealers operate similar to Carvana where they would resell the same car - that theory doesn't appear to hold.

Help me understand the levers for a used car dealership for a trade-in. Assume a good condition 3 year old vehicle -- what typically happens to that trade-in? Trying to learn for next time.

And, yes, I also understand that the rep isn't incentivized on the trade-in, they possibly didn't want my car, and I could have negotiated differently and made the sale contingent on a trade-in.

Have you ever heard of someone getting a new car and trading in a car they had, thinking the traded in car was part of the contract, driving off the lot in their new car.. but eventually the dealer dropped the traded in car off at the lending banks parking lot with the keys in it? That’s all the info I have, from what the person told me.. I don’t understand and I’m trying to. Why would a car dealer do that ? Or would they ever ? What am I missing ?
This is pertaining to a lawsuit a “friends” husband was just given for $21,000 by the bank for the car, and the story she was told. The husband’s ex wife was in possession of the new car but has since sold it.
The car trade in debacle happened in 2018 but he’s just now being sued but he was aware of the debt before the lawsuit unsure why he wasn’t taking care of it before (idk if that’s helpful but included it just in case)
Please clarify this for me.. I’m Very confused. Just sounds so crazy to me. I’m sorry if it’s hard to follow.

I'm looking at buying a new 2026 Lexus RX 450h+ Luxury AWD tomorrow in Los Angeles.

Vehicle:

Exterior: Eminent White Pearl

Interior: Macadamia

MSRP: $77,695

Selling price: $72,623

Dealer discount: $5,072 (6.53% off MSRP)

Options included:

Convenience Package with Panoramic View Monitor and Traffic Jam Assist

Mark Levinson Premium Audio

Advanced Park with Remote Park

Power rear door with kick sensor

Technology Package with Digital Rearview Mirror and Digital Key

Premium paint

Dealer's estimated out-the-door breakdown:

Selling price: $72,623

Documentation fee: $85

Sales tax: $5,998.41

Electronic filing: $37

License/registration and other fees: $866.75

Estimated dealer OTD: $79,610.16

I'm also using a broker who charges a separate $599 fee, bringing my estimated total to $80,209.16.

I'm paying cash, and the dealer quote has no dealer add-ons. I'm considering asking them to include genuine Lexus carpet floor mats and a carpet cargo mat at no charge because I don't think they are included.

Is 6.53% off MSRP a good discount for this model in California right now? Has anyone recently purchased an RX 450h+ Luxury and done better? Would you push for another $500–$1,000 off, or take this deal given the specific color and options?

Estuve mirando un video y me di cuenta de que la marca Chrysler de la empresa Stellantis apenas tiene un modelo o dos y parece mas una marca residual que una marca fuerte como era en antaño. Se que Stellantis tiene varias marcas pero claro resultará difícil meter a Peugeot en Estados Unidos dado a que fue el deseo de la antigua PSA de vender coches en Estados Unidos como hacía en los 80s. Los Estadounidenses no creo que le haga gracia comprarse un Peugeot en lugar de un Chrysler, son muy patriotas ellos, por lo que vendería Peugeot con un ligero cambio estéticos como Chrysler para dicho mercado.

Os imagináis a película de acción de Estados Unidos ir en un Peugeot 3008 o película de Marvel con un Peugeot 308. O frases como estas '' Visit a Peugeot-Jeep-Dodge dealership; we have the Peugeot 3008 on offer for only 12,000 dollars, and the 208 for 9,500 dollars.

Visit a Peugeot dealership in New York, Pennsylvania, or New Jersey'' Con imagenes de los coches y el Sales en un lateral.

Hi this is my first time buying a car, so go easy on me lol.

I know the RAV4 is one of if not the hottest car in the US, so trying to get some feedback on what a realistic discount off listing price I could achieve. Also, interested to hear if there is a difference if I went for a hybrid rather than gas only.

For context this is what I’m shopping for:
\- RAV4 XLE
\- model year: 2020+
\- under 50k miles
\- open to gas only or hybrid
\- Area Charleston, SC metro
\- Primarily shopping dealers but open to shopping private party.

Appreciate any thoughts!

Thanks y’all.

To anyone that has done this before, what kind of cons did you experience? Is there a huge financial downside to this, when you try to sell this vehicle in the future?

For context, I am looking at an 8V RS3 that was purchased at auction and imported to the US. Seeing as this is a rare enthusiast car, I’d imagine less downside here.

I am not worried about the warranty aspect, as this vehicle is already out of the factory warranty period.

Just wanted to share my experience with Kia Canada and hopefully get some advice.

I recently returned my 2024 Kia Telluride. I genuinely loved the vehicle and was planning on getting another one. Unfortunately, the lease return process has completely changed my opinion of Kia Canada.

For some background, I’ve worked in the automotive industry for over 10 years. I’ve personally leased BMWs, Mercedes-Benz and Audis, all with lease end protection, and never experienced anything like this.

I returned my Telluride early and fully accepted the approximately $830 early termination charge. No issues there.

What I wasn’t expecting was a bill for roughly $2,300, especially considering I purchased Kia’s Lease End Protection.

Some of the additional charges included:

Over $500 for two window mouldings, despite Kia having recalls involving Telluride mouldings.
$599 for an alleged 11-inch scratch.
$248 for a previously plugged tire.

I understand lease end protection has exclusions, but I was surprised by how little seemed to be covered.

The worst part has been dealing with Kia Canada.

The first level of customer service didn’t seem to fully understand how leasing or lease end protection works. Eventually, I spoke with a manager in the lease end department who was extremely rude and condescending.

Rather than addressing my concerns, he repeatedly brought up the fact that I hadn’t purchased another Kia and essentially told me I wasn’t a loyal customer.

Here’s the funny part. I actually want another Telluride.

My wife is on maternity leave, so we don’t need another vehicle until she returns to work. I was planning on waiting for the new Telluride to arrive in Canada.

I was told I could receive a $500 loyalty credit if I ordered another Kia. No problem, I contacted my dealership and placed a preorder for the new Telluride.

Now I’m being told the vehicle must be in stock and delivered within 30 days to qualify.

How am I supposed to take delivery of a vehicle that isn’t even available in Canada yet?

After several conversations, the lease end manager finally agreed to cover $200 towards one of the moulding charges, which was approximately $299 plus tax.

He promised to send an updated invoice. I still haven’t received anything.

Just automated responses. When I follow up, I’m now being told they don’t email anything.

My invoice is due, and I’m apparently expected to pay the original amount and just hope they eventually refund the difference?

I’ve even reached out to higher-level Kia Canada executives through referrals and connections I’ve made during my 10 years in the automotive industry. Not a single response.

That’s what blows my mind. We’re in an industry built around customer service, relationships and repeat business. I couldn’t imagine treating one of my customers this way.

I’m not asking for special treatment or trying to avoid legitimate charges. I just want an accurate invoice, clear explanations and someone to follow through on what they’ve promised.

The most disappointing part is that I actually enjoyed my Telluride enough to preorder another one. Yet Kia Canada seems more interested in telling me I’m not loyal than helping resolve a relatively straightforward issue.

Has anyone successfully escalated a complaint with Kia Canada beyond the lease end department?

At this point, I’m genuinely looking for advice. I’ve never experienced this level of customer service from any other manufacturer I’ve dealt with.

What a shame, because the vehicle itself was great.

I am trading a vehicle that currently has around 3k to 4k negative equity. KBB highest value was 23,454 for a trade in. Currently owe 26k. I am trading for a new vehicle that’s priced at 42k. I have a 675 credit score. I gross around 41k a year and my current car is the only debt on my credit. I have plans to put down 4k as a down payment. With the negative equity would I be able to receive a payment below 750?

Any other car salesmen struggling this month? I was a product specialist from October 2025 to May 2026 and started sales in June. Crushed june with 17 cars, did 10 in July with a week off work, 11 in august and 13 last month. Now im at 2 this month and for the life of me just cannot get any sales going. I feel like im doing something wrong all of a sudden. Anyone else having this experience?

Bought a 2019 Honda Fit LX a couple days ago from a dealership in MN that came with a limited warranty for 15 days/500 miles - car was not bought as-is. Warranty covers, among many things, all lubricated engine parts, which is relevant. I didn't hear or see anything wrong/concerning during my test drive, brought it in for a PPI and the shop just said it needed new tires and brakes.

Fast forward to this morning, I start the car and hear a rough grinding sound that goes away after a second or two. Happened again after I got off work. I did some digging at work and found 2010s Hondas have pretty pervasive VTC actuator issues, and I suspect that's what's going on here.

As far as I'm aware, this issue started today. Unlikely? Possibly. But I had no indication from my test drive or from dealership documentation that there was anything wrong of that nature with the car. I also didn't sign anything waiving warranty coverage on any specific parts or systems.

The specific wording on the warranty is: "The dealer will pay 100% of the labor and 100% of the parts for the covered systems that fail during the warranty period". I'm getting hung up on the "fail during the warranty period" piece. I can't prove anything failed during the warranty period, but there was no indication to me that there was an issue when I bought it - as far as I'm concerned, it did fail during the warranty period.

Do I have a genuine warranty claim here? I'll probably reach out regardless but don't want it to spiral into a huge headache, especially since working with this dealership was already bad enough.

Hi everyone, I purchased my 2026 Subaru Outback on July 3, 2026 and then about 3 weeks later, had to take it back in on July 24 for a transmission replacement. I didn’t get my car back till September 14. The car only had 866 miles on it when it was fixed. Subaru is offering me 3 options: a full buyback w/o a replacement, a full buyback w/ a replacement, or a $5,000 cash settlement. If I were to have them buy the car back, I’d be either stuck without a car or have to pay the negative equity on the car since I rolled $5-$6k over into the new loan. I’d have to sign a non-discloser release with each option (whatever that is). What would be my best option?

I currently work at a power sports dealership, this is their pay plan for their salesmen

Base pay: $17 an hour, 9-6pm Tuesday- Saturday

Commission: 41-50 units $50 each unit
51-60 units $100 each unit
61-70 units $150 each unit
71 + units $200 each unit

The bonus is paid retroactively to unit 41

Since my employment at the beginning of the year, the store has not reached more than 44 units. I consistently sell 20+ a month.

I'm currently looking for offers for 2026 Rav4 Le model but can't find any. All of them are redirecting to the XLE premium model.
I have read multiple post on how people are getting 39 to 43k OTD PRICES and dealership discounts even with full ride panoramic sunroof and weather packages.
I'm wanted to learn how to negotiate better from pros?
I do know the demand but I have found multiple deals.
I don't want to pay crazy amount of add ons they do. I am also looking for financing in the US
Should I tell them I have offer from this other dealership or should I just show the offer and hide the dealership names ?

Kinda want tips on how to be direct and firm and to go about negotiating from people who have gotten great deals!

Hey everyone!
I’m currently in car sales and have been in the business for about four years. I’m looking to propose an F&I Assistant/Finance Manager Trainee position at my dealership, as I genuinely think our finance department could benefit from having one.
At my previous dealership, I helped our finance department while working as a receptionist. I handled things like problem logs, missing paperwork, VIN verification, deal breakdowns, registration issues, and customer follow-ups. I absolutely loved that side of the business and would eventually like to become an F&I manager.
We currently have four finance managers, and our store typically does around $350,000–$520,000 a month in gross. One of our finance managers, who also works the desk, actually brought up the idea of an assistant position to me originally.
I’d like to propose a role where I could help all four managers with their problem deals, paperwork, outstanding stips, funding follow-ups, and whatever administrative work they need handled, while also receiving hands-on F&I training.
My question is: Would asking for $18/hour plus 1–2% of the store’s total backend gross be unreasonable?
I want to make sure I’m compensated fairly, but I also want the position to make financial sense for the dealership. I’m more interested in getting my foot in the door and building a long-term career in finance than immediately making F&I manager money.
Has anyone worked in a similar position or helped create one at their store? What did the pay structure look like, and what responsibilities did you have?
Appreciate any advice, especially from current F&I managers or directors!

So, we’re about a year into a lease on a Lexus plug-in hybrid SUV. We brought it in yesterday for its first service. It has about 4,000 miles and is immaculate.

Suddenly today, the dealership called asking if we want a brand new model of the same car in exchange for our current one. They say it won’t cost anything extra and even offered a bigger car for the same rates if we wanted it.

I don’t think I understand why they want to do this. Do they have a buyer lined up for our exact model but no car to actually sell? What do I need to look out for here other than making sure we’re not paying extra taxes or starting an additional lease? We also love our current car so the appeal of just having a newer version (again, ours is 1-year old) to benefit the dealership for nothing else in return isn’t enough to make us jump into anything. We’re located near Washington, DC.

EDIT: Thank you all for the input! This is our first time leasing so we weren’t sure how common this is. We usually pay cash for a car and then keep it for ~7 years before thinking about a new one. At which point, the car has about 35-40k miles and a solid resale value. It sounds like the dealer wants our car for a sale, which is what we expected. We don’t need a different new car or a totally new lease. I think we’re inclined to keep it in that case. Thanks again!

Financing in Ontario for $312 biweekly 5 year term. CPO 2024 Mazda 3 Gt Sedan AWD non turbo. 25000km. “Damage reported” on carfax with no claim amount. This is in Canadian dollars. Thoughts and opinions?

Hi Reddit! I don’t have any car buying pros in my life and would really appreciate your insight. I’m very interested purchasing a used RAV4 from a dealership near me. It is a 2023 and has about 70k miles. My Nissan Rogue is on her way out (act surprised please) and I’m needing something new with a budget of ~20k within a quick time frame.

I am using the Costco auto program and working with this dealer, which gives me a $750 discount. I have been conveniently busy and have been communicating with them through text, negotiating only the price of the car so far. However, this came up and I’m confused. They’re listing their “Pre-Delivery Service Charge” at $1,299. I asked for an itemized breakdown of this, but the person I’m working with let me know that, “There isnt an itemization of the pre-delivery service charge. Its just the dealer fee which is included at every dealership. There is a small portion in the fine print that says its for inspections, reconditioning, preparing documents etc. Even I have to pay it!”

I’m confused. I know there’s a doc fee, but what else is in there? Is this normal? It’s not feeling right to me. I’m willing to work with it, I understand they need their profit, but I’m not willing to pay for unnecessary add-ons that they would have to pay for anyway.

In addition to this, the price they gave me on the price sheet is starting with the price at $24,145. However, the price listed on the Costco website is $21,950, with an additional minimum discount of $750. Costco says that the $750 applies to the lowest advertised price of the vehicle. What gives? 😅

Currently in a bad car loan that I earned due to my bad credit & would like to upgrade.

2017 Hyundai Elantra
28% APR
129K miles
$455 monthly payments. Never late. No repos.
Salary: $73,800. Annual bonus gets me to $80K
Payoff: 12,500
ACV: $3-4K
Down payment: $8K

594 credit score.

Hi everyone!

I'm an F-1 student currently working on CPT, which expires in May 2027, after which I can get an OPT for the next 3 years. I'm looking to finance a used car for 60 months.

My concern is whether the bank might reject the loan during final verification because my CPT authorization expires before the loan term ends.

Has anyone in car sales or dealership financing dealt with a similar situation? Does the CPT expiration date affect final approval?

Thanks!