I've got an MK6 1.8T. I went to AutoZone and got their house brand STP 5w-40 Euro, because it comes with a free filter. I just glanced at the back label quickly and saw it had VW spec on there and grabbed it. Upon further inspection it's only rated for VW 505 00 not 502 00. Did I waste money and should I drain it, or just run it until next change?

Howdy, I purchased a used Jetta and like it. It’s a solid car with a smooth suspension and acceleration. However, the speakers sound of poor quality. This is strange because I’ve driven a VW before. The speakers aren’t blown because I don’t hear any rattling, just 240p YouTube audio. Please help, I really want to blast my ghetto booty music down I-5. Thank you.

I have a 2012 Vw Jetta sportswagen 2.0 tdi equipped with the 6 speed manual, it has roughly 164000 miles, it’s been a while since I checked, I got it from my brother who got it from marketplace, now it had been sitting for 6 months when I got it running and driving and drove it for a month or so and then got my truck back and it sat some more on my driveway for 2 months before I decided to switch back to it, I had gotten it signed back over to me and insurance under my name and I was driving it uphill and I was at about 3600 rpm and the cars engine shut off, I had the radio all the way up and everything went off, I thought maybe I bumped the key and I tried to start it with the trans and it did nothing, I pulled over and tried to start it but all it did was spin over, the starter died and I then got towed home, I checked it for metal contamination in the little tray on front of the engine not the filter and I saw no glitter, I hooked it up to a obdii scanner not made for Vw but threw no code, anybody have any idea what could have caused it to shut off and then just turn over but not start

I’ve worked on Toyotas and Pontiac and it’s been simple to find replacement parts. My radiator on my 06 Jetta has a terrible leak and I’m struggling to find a replacement that looks like the part I just took out. I might be a silly goose and not looking correctly but anyone able to help out?

I'm about to spray my stock 2019 jetta s snowflake wheel black. Any advice? I already used dawn soap and rubbing alcohol to prep

Here the story, I had the brake fluid level light come on and after looking under the car the right rear had puddle of brake fluid (said to myself that’s not good) and after jacking car up and removing wheel I determined that it was not leaking from a loose bleeder screw like I thought it might be but rather from the seal for the parking brake on the back of the caliper. So to be thorough I ordered new rear left and right caliper, rotors, and pads. I replaced the brake hardware and while doing so there was constant drip of brake fluid coming out of open lines until I got new caliper installed and lines tightened so I do not believe that any air would have traveled upstream into the system. I then moved onto bleeding starting from rear right per Volkswagen specifications. I started with gravity bleed, then used a one way check valve bleed system doing many rounds and keeping close eye on fluid level. This did not work so I ordered a pressure bleeder and again attempted multiple bleeds at 15psi this did not work either. On all of these bleeds I went until the outflow of fluid had no air bubbles. Frustrated I had my dad send me my foxwell scanner with VW software. Using this I was able to activate the abs pump with pressure on the system (again 15psi) and the bleeder valve cracked which should force fluid out quickly from bleeder screw. I attempted this multiple times as well. None of these methods have worked and I verified the front brake are perfectly bled as well. The brake pedal feels hard without the car running but when I turn it on the car barely stops itself when attempting to test drive the pedal is very soft and doesn’t do anything until the very bottom of travel. At this point I am thinking my master cylinder went bad and needs to be replaced as well.

Forgot to mention that when using the pressure bleeder to bleed the front pressure drops and good amount of fluid comes out as expected. The same does not happen for the rear.

I picked up a 23 Jetta S with the LED headlights and I’m not all that impressed with the distance looking at adding on additional lighting to the front of the vehicle. Does anybody have any ideas before I start shopping into wiring harnesses? Ideally, I would like to find a splitter that I can plug into the existing harness and the headlights

My mechanics forgot to reset this when I had it serviced. Any way to do it yourself? 2018 Jetta S.

Not my first Jetta, but definitely my favorite. Feels really amazing to drive for a 15 year old car

Hey guys I have 2016 with the xenon headlights. Well I smoked a deer and looking to get Amazon housings to fit. At first I thought I just needed an adapter and a recode and I’d be good to go. The adapter I got is 14 pin female 10 pin male. But after looking I need the opposite 14 pin male 10 pin female. Does anyone have plug part numbers or have gone through this. Thanks

No low coolant light yet, but I’m going to have to get it looked at.

Not sure exactly where it is leaking from.

So I’m interested in this 2012 Volkswagen Jetta. It’s a 2.0L Sedan 4D. The seller states the timing chain, rear pads, motors, calipers, water pump, wheel bearings, and suspension has been replaced. He says it’s been serviced religiously and photos look great. He’s got a clean title too.

But the catch is that it’s got 200k miles on it. I’m just looking for a daily work car, so if the car has some life for that I’m good. He’s selling it for 3k. I’m not a car guy, nor do I know any, so I thought I could ask here.

Here’s the vin: 3VW2K7AJ1CM382038

I know there’s some biases asking here lol but I am seeing conflicting opinions on Volkswagens. People say they ain’t shit, but then people who do own them are regularly talking about their reliability and posting their car passing 300k miles and beyond. I’d say Im a good caretaker for my car, and would obviously pay attention and try to fix any problems I see along with normal routine maintenance.

Thanks for reading!

Edits: Rotors not motors, and it’s a timing belt.

When I lock the car with the fob the passenger side doors can still open, but the alarm will sound. What could I do to fix this?

Helping someone can help me out. So I got a new transmission filter, and I know that there are two types for my year model (raised vs flat). I got the correct one, but it is a little bit narrow and apparently there's two versions of this version. Can I still install it and will it work? I don't have time to wait around for a new one to drive by mail since I can't get one locally, but will if I need to

Amigos buen dia, queria ver si a alguien de ustedes ya le paso lo mismo y podría orientarme
A mi coche le sale ese codigo P0687
Lo lleve con 2 electricos uno me dijo directo que era el rele (644) y lo cambio por uno Generico de los que venden en las refaccionarias y funciono y andubo bien un dia, al día siguiente le hice cambio de aceite y al bajarlo de la rampa se me apago y ya no quiso prender y quedó directo el codigo que por mas que que se le metia escaner no se borraba y llego otro electrico y me dijo que era la caja de fusibles que estaba sucia y los fusibles que estaban corroídos, se limpio todo y me dijo que le regrasara el fusible original (644) y funcionó bien como por 10 dias y ya de ahi me volvio a tirar el codigo de nuevo y ya no volvio a arrancar, lo deje reposar toda la noche y volvio a funcionar como si nada hoy el coche pero que podria ser?

I have a 2011 Jetta 2.5L with 155k miles. As far as I know, the sunroof drains and tracks have never been serviced.

No leaks or issues, but I want to prevent future water damage and electrical problems.

A VW specialist quoted me $97 to clean the drains and lubricate the tracks. Is this worthwhile preventative maintenance?

Are clogged drains common on these Jettas?

So I got a 2021 Jetta Highline with 52k km on it. I had it for 4 month and drove another 8k km on it and suddenly the engine light turned on. I got my car from an Audi dealership and got the extended warranty on it. This happened in July, and my car has been at the dealership since then.

First they took too long to diagnose the issue and then when they did they found metal shards inside the oil. So according to my service advisor the cam adjuster was faulty and therefore there are metal shards in every part of the engine where the oil flows. The reason for it no one knows and they just said its weird shouldn't have happened at 60,000km.

This being said luckily my warranty is covering everything and the whole engine needs to be replaced which is approx $20,000 worth of repair. Now they placed order for engine in August end and according to them it is on back order and there hasn't been any update on it.

My warranty covers rental vehicle so at least I have a car to drive but my concern is its taking to long for my engine to arrive and then its gonna affect the value of my car as well.

As per the Audi sales Mgr its gonna be a new engine so it will appreciate the car's value instead of decreasing it but I highly doubt that.

I'm just confused what should the next step be should I just wait for everything and keep my car or convince the dealership to trade it in and give me a new car.

I have a 2024 Jetta sport. I’m considering buying a backup set of wheels and might leave them on for the winter. Is there anything in the wheel itself that works for the tire pressure monitoring system?

Hey guys I’m currently looking for the trim piece that goes over the cluster for the mk6.5 so if anyone has a junk yard nearby that they could get one of these for cheaper that could be shipped please get in touch :]

Part # is 5C7-857-059-F-BBO but usually comes with the whole shabang and is more expensive

Mk6.5 2.slow. About 112k miles. Spark plugs & fuel filter changed in June or July. Does this sound bad? My car started shifting hard this morning. It stuttered a couple times while cold but stopped and hasn’t stuttered since (I drive 40-50 mins to/from work everyday.) I can hear a whine/whistle as I accelerate and I noticed the engine is ticking differently than it has before. I was sitting in it idle for a couple minutes and it jumped a few times. Drove home fine.. not great but fine. No lights.

As the title says. Anyone have any insite? I'm guessing dealer if no other way but I'm not paying $250 like U had to for the new key reprogramming.