Hi nice people of r/consolerepair! This is my first broken console im trying to fix up. It won't turn on, though the seller had said the light turns on but unfortunately he won't do so for me. There is very clear water damage. Im wondering if anyone can point me in the correct direction of what I can do about this. Thank you :))

Hey guys, I'm open my Switch to repaste the thermal paste. When I got to the heat shield I tried to clean the copper area but it won't get to the copper colour it remains that thermal stained. Then I noticed the copper was peeling away a bit. Should I replace it?

This PSOne has bad video output. Sound is ok and it powers on fine. When checking the motherboard I noticed the perimeter of the motherboard is noticeably darkened compared to the rest. It doesn’t feel greasy or anything like that. Is this something like leftover flux from the factory or is it water damage?

I am one more of those that tried recapping their GameCube DVD drive PCB and failed.

In my case, after replacing the caps, the optical lens would move up and down but the disc would not spin. Googled and learned that apparently this could be an issue with C238 (the 220 one), which would totally make sense because that's the capacitor where the positive pad got torn partially. I removed the capacitor and, when I checked with a multimeter, I was surprised to see that there was continuity between the two pads! (Unfortunately, in the process, I also tore off the other pad.) Gemini says that this is wrong and that I have somehow created a bridge between them but I don't see how.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

using parts from many consoles to build a custom, low-temperature PS4

I have a SNES 1-chip Console that takes about 30 seconds to load a game. Once it finally loads it runs for about 30 seconds before it restarts. I'm using a Triad power supply with the appropriate pig-tale connector. Could this be a capacitor issue?

I cleaned the pieces then changed out the piece that goes behind the joystick/circle pad thinking it was the problem

The pointer is still going wherever it wants to go.

What next? The control pad?

I am only a nurse, not a tech guru but can follow videos to change out pieces. Any advice is appreciated!

I’d say about a month ago now I flipped my PS5 where it was laying down because I heard about the liquid metal issue, ever since I did, it started making this weird clicking noise, which worried me but nothing seemed to be affected but now it’s starting to get annoying and I do want to know what it is

Hi all,

I’m trying to revive a Dreamcast that shows only a white screen on the TV, with no sound and no boot logo. Its doesnt matter if the fan connected or not, drive mounted or not: always the same white screen.

Here’s what I’ve checked so far:

Power supply

• Measured all three rails under load: 3.3V and 5V are rock solid, 12V reads ~13V and briefly dips to ~12.5V when the drive spins up, which I assume is normal for that rail.
• There’s one slightly discolored SMD component on the underside of the PSU (near C012), but since all rails are stable I don’t think the PSU is the culprit.

Mainboard / video

• No obviously damaged, burnt or leaking components on the board.
• Cleaned the A/V port and checked all contacts, continuity everywhere.
• Using the default scart cable.

GD-ROM

• The drive spins and seems to recognize random discs.
• Sometimes the white screen turns black, and the drive makes 1 long or 4 short beeps..

Has anyone seen this combination before? Any ideas what else to check?

Thanks!

so i found my old action replay but it isn’t booting, any tips? i tried cleaning the pins with some isopropyl. note, i am trying to use this on my ds lite.

I have a rog ally z1e, it has 0 activity. Usb meter shows pd activity with voltage at 20V and current draw only 0.05A. Checked the usb c connector diode reading, found the D+ line is only 0.237v, and D- is open. Traced and found the components are ok and lines are ok till it goes under tha apu (the component marked 0 is the last) . Battery is dead 0v; Also, the terminal has no charge voltage.

Is this apu fault?

Quick story of this PS5 EDM-020:
- I find a burnt F7002 fuse
- I find shorts on ceramic capacitors in that area
- I remove the WiFi chip, shorts are gone

With both the chip removed I still get 270mA and the new chip installed I get a range from 280 to 290 mA.

My question: given the absorbtion even when chip removed, should I look into other components in that zone?

Thanks in advance.

Does anybody see any giveaways of what could be wrong with this console? The previous owner tried modding it and failed. I already removed all their old wires. I recapped the 3 black caps. Tried resoldering the previous owners spots where they attatched wires as well. Thank you for any help in advance.

Hello, I have replaced an HDMI on a PS5 Slim 2116 and have lost a small chip during the repair. I have had trouble finding any info on this version of the board as none of the other PS5 slims I have worked on have had these chips at this location. Initially I thought it was a 100pf capacitor but that doesn't seem to be the case. I have circled in red the one in red I believe the missing chip to be, the one in blue is the 100pf cap that doesn't seem to be doing anything. If anyone knows what these chips are so I can get a proper replacement for the missing one would be appropriated!

Sorry for posting twice. Trying to inspect the water damage in here but the spring has a lot of corrosion or battery acid and its stuck. I dont have IPA yet, only vinegar. So I wasn't quite sure if I should use any since I cant rinse it with IPA afterwards. And it seems like the corrosion or whatever has gotten it stuck is under the spring so a hard place to get to. Any advice?

I have attached some pictures of the charging port; when I connect the charger to the console, there is no sign that the console is charging. I have not opened the console yet.

Hello,

I have been working to bring this Nintendo DSi XL back to life, as well as learn more about how to repair them. I recently bought a multimeter to test the board out as well.

The issue is that it will not turn on, and when I plug the charger in, the orange light comes on for a second, then off and it will not turn on. I have been referencing this post as it is the same issue.

Here is what I have done and assessed:

1. If I swap the battery with a known good battery, the console turns on and functions normally.
2. If I take the battery and put it in a known good DSi XL and charge it, that battery will charge.
3. F1 Fuse was tested in continuity mode and appears to have continuity.
4. EM1 Filter was also tested. It has continuity between the top left to top right, bottom right to bottom left, but diagonally I did not get a beep to indicate continuity.
5. Visually, things look good, charging port appears to be fine and connected to the solder pads.

Would love to hear any comments or advice on what to do next. In the post I linked it appears this might be a failed charging circuitry, and if so, is that repairable?

hello, I have this Xbox one controller with a not working R3 button. I have replaced the stick with a new one (I have used plain Alps stick, no TMR), but the button still doesn't work.

I have inspected the board under the microscope but I saw no broken traces. What else can I try at this point? And is there a board schematic with traces, so I can check continuity from the stick? Also, which pin from the stick is connected to the R3 button?

Any help would be appreciated.

I'm trying to clean up my old childhood Wii fit balance board and this liquid keeps oozing out of it... The battery compartment is pristine, so what on earth is it? It turns on when I put batteries in, but I don't have my console set up to test how well it works.

As the name suggests I have installed a Modbo 5 both in a PAL 39003 & 30003R, both of which have stopped reading discs after the install, even after removing the chips and returning the PS2s back to stock.

Both read games prior to the Modbo install and I have installed the chip on a few consoles previously and never had any issues. Also all other features of the Modbo work as intended.

After the Modbo install the 30003R read PS2 games but not PS1, and after some fiddling, now it takes a minute to even attempt to load a disc and can only launch PS2 games to the DVD player menu, which does suggest the laser is either on the way out or needs to be recalibrated. This happens with both disc drives.

The 39003 now just spits out a disc error no matter what. The laser does turn on and attempt to read the disc for a second, but does not progress further than that. As this occurs with both disc drives, I have a feeling this may be an issue with the PS2 motherboard rather than the disc drive, but I'm not too sure.

I have cleaned the boards with alcohol and checked for shorts and everything looks fine. I have heard sometimes fuses can cause this issue or a faulty la6508 chip. The games I am using to test are a legitimate PS1 and a silver DVD PS2 game and work fine in other consoles.

Before attempting a PMAP and looking into getting replacement lasers, is there any other areas I should check first which could have caused these issues?

Was wondering if anyone knew what could cause this issue? typical start is 300mA right? then it settles on 10mA... not sure what the culprit could be. i bought this used. noticed liquid metal was on random locations... not sure if that could be the culprit.

2 days ago my ps4 broke down, it wouldn't take or read any disc's, i tried opening it up but I needed like 10 different screw drivers so I gave up.

Today it would take disc's but wouldn't read them, so i tried opening it up again. I couldn't. So i left it unplugged and a couple hours later I picked it up and shook it as hard as I could. To my disbelief it let me play Minecraft.

Moral of the story, if your ps4 slim stops working just unplug it and shake it really hard

It came off while I was disassembling the ps5 it’s the heat pipe is it broken becuase I searched up online it says it’s broken and than other time it says it’s need to be put a thermal paste

Does anyone know if my motherboard can still be repaired?