Sorry if this is a weird question,

I’m buying car that’s out of state for me. My bank requested 2 paystubs and a w2 before giving me a letter of approval with a code on it that the dealer should be able to use to pull up my loan application.

I’ve made it fairly clear I want to go directly through my bank despite the dealer working with my bank normally.

I don’t want to overthink anything, but why is my dealer now asking for a paystub? Isn’t the point of the letter to say “yeah he can pay for this car”?

I can’t shake the feeling it’s because the dealer is trying to be a part of the financing.

Any input is appreciated

Cheers

Hey guys I have been in the car sales game for over 7 years.
I have been a salesperson, trainer, finance manager, sales manager and a general sales manager. I am burnt out.
I went back to just selling cars at a new dealer, to escape the high stress and to take a step back to view the whole process. Coming from management and looking at this dealer, there is some unethical stuff going on. All of it targeting salespeople and messing with their pay.
I feel like it just put another nail in the coffin and I am ready to get out.
But, I have a family. I am the sole provider and it is scary to make a change. Plus it feels like every other job needs some type of education. I’m just a sales guy.

What have you all done to get out of the business and what are you doing?
I have looked into supply chain procurement, kinda like the job I’m doing, but I don’t work commission or the hours.
Or I have looked into banking. But we can’t survive off of teller pay or most of the other entry level spots
I could use some advice

I’m looking at buying a minivan and trying to get a realistic idea of what my Pilot is worth before negotiating a trade-in.

It’s a 2020 Honda Pilot EX-L, FWD, with 68,163 miles. I’m in Charlotte, NC. There are no known mechanical issues, but it does have a large dent and scraping on the rear passenger-side door, shown in the photos. The door still opens, closes, and functions normally.

What would be a fair trade-in offer in its current condition, and what could I realistically get selling it privately? Would repairing the door first be worth it, or am I better off selling it as-is?

I'll try to keep this short. I purchased a new vehicle out of state (GA), cash on Sept 6th. Delivered on 11th, and everything has been swell except for the lack of title or plate. Temp plate runs out on the 22nd, I contacted NC dot and they didn't have my VIN in the system.

Reached out to the dealer and learned the paperwork wasn't sent in until Oct 2nd, said they will do a follow up, this was on Oct 14th. Sent an email yesterday asking about a temp plate extension so I could at least keep driving the vehicle and crickets, NC dot says I need to work with the dealership to get one.

Is there anything else I can do?

Boston area
Buick 2016 LaCross 🚘
My elderly mother is no longer driving, so I’m helping her sell her car. It’s paid off and in fair condition but has a flat tire and doesn’t start (prob the battery) so I’m hoping someone can pick it up and take it off our hands. Have people had good experiences with carvana, carmax or other? I’m not sure if they will pickup in this condition. I don’t want to spend money replacing the tires or battery unless it would make a big difference.

https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModelY/comments/1xagtx2/title_bought_a_used_tesla_from_a_dealership_that/

I am looking to get a new car either audi rsq8 or a bmw 760i and i can afford to pay them in cash. My current car is a infiniti q50 stage two tuned fully paid off. I like having liquid so i dont know if i wanna pay full cash i might finance the car. If i go to a dealership what are tips not to get played? I also have a 720 credit score but i am 22 years old. And should i sell my car on facebook or trade it in with dealership?

Im a Subaru salesperson i want to work the service drive. First of all im nervous but want to push myself anyone work service drive give me tips!? Please! 🙏💜

I’m not suggesting clean carpet magically makes a used car worth more. I know mileage, accident history, service records, tires, brakes, and all that matter more. But when a car is being appraised or shown to a buyer, does a stained footwell change how people see the car? My 2021 Accord is mechanically fine, but the driver-side carpet is starting to show winter salt marks and one old coffee shadow. I’ve cleaned it a couple of times, and it always comes back faintly. From the sales side, is floor protection mostly about presentation, or do most buyers and dealers overlook it if the car checks out? I’m asking because I keep seeing people connect a clean interior with car resale value, but I have no idea how much it matters in real life.

Dallas Texas, bought a 2010 Toyota Camry m from a sweet old lady who made inaccurate claims about the state of the car. Have it three days and the electrical system is fried. Any advice, please?

I’m about to start a Commercial Vehicle Sales Executive role at a Ford dealership in the UK. I haven’t worked in vehicle sales before, but I’m confident with people and keen to learn.
The basic salary is £28,000, with advertised OTE of around £35,000–£40,000.
The commission plan has:
Bronze: minimum 5 vehicles per month, £45 per vehicle
Silver: 120 vehicles annually, £110 per vehicle
Gold: 156 vehicles annually, £155 per vehicle
Additional commission for finance and add-on products
I’d really appreciate hearing from people currently working in UK dealerships, particularly commercial vehicle sales.
What did you realistically earn in your first year?
How long did it take you to reach your monthly targets?
Is £35,000 realistic for a new starter?
How much difference do finance and add-on sales make?
Is there anything you wish you’d known before starting?
I’m interested in honest experiences from average performers as well as top sellers, rather than just the advertised OTE. Thanks.

I purchased a new Civic Hybrid 7 months ago, and now suddenly this morning I get a call, text and email from the sales girl sweating me cuz I never set up my Honda Link App! This must be tied to incentives, right? Why would sales care about this 7 months later otherwise?

I bought a 2023 F150 from a local (1.5 hours away) dealer recently. Their website advertised this truck as “Certified Gold” and has an advertised 10 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty along with a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty. They do the in depth inspection and everything. They have vehicles listed as “Certified Blue” on their site as well as a lower-tier certified vehicle. Long story short I have found out while trying to shop for extended warranties, that my vehicle is in fact NOT certified preowned through Ford. The dealer uses very similar wording and third party warranties to match Fords certified preowned program, but does not register the vehicles in Fords certified preowned program. I have since been told this from the dealer themselves. The GM and Dakar’s managers have been less than helpful and have shown no interest in trying to resolve the issue.
To me this is very deceptive marketing and I feel I have been sold a vehicle that was presented to me as gold certified and in reality is not. This will cost me thousands of more dollars if I attempt to buy an extended warranty and I don’t even qualify for the warranty I was wanting anymore.
Does anyone have any advice on how to handle this? Or am I SOL?

Looking at a new 2026 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback for around $29,400 out the door. I originally went in for a certified pre-owned Civic with 1.99% APR, but the dealership was pushing the new one, which ended up being about $500 cheaper. The new car’s APR is 6.74%. Is $29,400 OTD a good deal? How much lower could I realistically negotiate, and are there any fees or add-ons I should watch out for? Any advice is appreciated!

Item Amount
MSRP $29,545.00
Door Edge Guards $299.00
Doc Fee $85.00
Electronic Filing Fee $37.00
AutoNation Savings −$3,159.00
Total Sell Price $26,807.00
Sales Tax (estimated) $2,208.52
CA TIF, Weight and Plate Fee $132.00
Tire/Battery/MVWEA $8.75
Registration $73.00
Smog Abatement $27.00
Vehicle License Fee $174.00
CHP Fee $34.00
Estimated Balance Due / Out-the-Door Price $29,464.27

As the title implies, this car has just been a dumpster on wheels

Unfortunately I made a bad financial decision 3 years ago and stuck with a really interesting loan on an old ass car lol.

I currently owe $11,000 and som change on it, and paying it off fast is kind of out of the picture because the car is starting to become unreliable.

I just need some direction, and actual steps instead of bashing me please lol.

I was looking on caravana, driveway,drive time and honestly want to go that direction, but if there’s something better I could do, please let me know.

I’m looking for advice from anyone familiar with Minnesota consumer protection laws or who has experienced something similar.

I recently brought my Jeep to a dealership for repairs. Some repairs were covered under warranty, while others were paid for out of pocket.

To clarify, I have already paid for all additional repairs and have no outstanding balance with the dealership.
When I went to pick up my vehicle, I was asked to sign paperwork related to the dealership receiving reimbursement from my warranty provider.
I had no objection to signing. I simply requested a copy of the document for my records.
The dealership refused to provide a copy and informed me that I could not take my vehicle unless I signed the paperwork anyway.
I escalated the situation to the general manager, who was present and involved in the decision. Unfortunately, the situation remained unresolved.
I’m genuinely confused about why requesting a copy of something I’m required to sign would prevent me from retrieving a vehicle I’ve already paid to have repaired.
I’m hoping someone can help clarify:
1. Can a Minnesota dealership legally retain a vehicle when there are no outstanding repair charges?
2. Is a customer entitled to receive a copy of warranty reimbursement paperwork they are required to sign?
3. What is the most effective way to resolve this situation if dealership management refuses to cooperate?

Any insight from Minnesota attorneys, automotive professionals, or consumers who have dealt with something similar would be appreciated.

I leased a brand-new 2025 Ford F-150 Lightning XLT in July 2025 in California. I’m paying around $975/month, and the truck currently has about 21,000 miles. Unfortunately, I don’t have access to home charging, so I’m relying entirely on expensive public charging stations (around $0.48/kWh). Between the lease payment, insurance, and charging, this truck has become a huge financial burden. I’m also currently unemployed with no income, and I need to figure out how to get out of this situation without destroying my savings or credit.

I’ve already visited multiple dealerships trying to find a solution. Ford Credit quoted me $61,872 to purchase the truck, while Toyota Carlsbad offered around $35,000–$40,000 for it. However, when I went to a Ford dealership, they only offered somewhere in the $20,000s for the same truck, which was shocking. Depending on the offer, I’d be looking at roughly $22,000–$27,000 in negative equity if I bought it out and sold it to Toyota, potentially even more with Ford’s offer. CarMax refused to even appraise it because Ford apparently restricts third-party lease buyouts. I also considered trading it for a cheaper hybrid, but the Ford dealership told me my payments could actually increase because of the negative equity.

At this point, I’m seriously considering voluntarily returning the truck to Ford Credit and dealing with whatever early termination charges apply. I’ve read about California Civil Code § 2987, but I’m having trouble understanding what I’d actually owe. Has anyone here terminated a Ford Credit lease early, especially in California? Would I owe the remaining payments, the negative equity, or something completely different? Is there any possibility of negotiating a hardship settlement because I’m unemployed? I’d really appreciate advice from anyone who’s dealt with something similar.

I'm planning to sell a car I inherited from my mom, who also inherited it from my grandmother. No other owners.

It is a 2002 Subaru Outback Sedan H6.20 with 76,000 miles

The interior needs a detail, otherwise there is only minor damage on the rear bumper from backing into the garage without looking (I know) but no accidents or dents. I recently had the alternator rebuilt, replaced the battery, and a fuse. It runs but I wouldn't be surprised if it needed more work now or in the near future.

Assuming my memory is accurate and it needs work, what is the minimum I should sell it for after getting any additional priority maintenance fixed?

hi guys, im eyeing an 2008 RAV4 have some questions.

there was a claim in 2012 for 7k, left front corner.

and then in 2021, it states; Auction Announcement: AUCTION ANNOUNCED AS ACCIDENT REPAIR.

it has a long (normal looking) maintenance history both before and after these dates.

1. is 7k too much of a claim?

2. what does the auction announcement mean?

3. would i be an idiot to purchase this?

i'm looking to buy something that will hopefully last me at least 5 years that i can just drive until the wheels fall off.

it's a 3.5L V6 built in japan with 330k km for $6k CAD, branding is normal, currently in AB, Canada.

any help is appreciated!

First time buying a car.

I've negotiated a good price on a new car with a dealer in the Houston area via email. I called and emailed the sales person to let them know that I'll buy it and offered a deposit. He said it's not necessary and they'll note that the car is for me. When it comes in within 1-2 weeks and will call me.

Is this normal? I got a pretty good deal so don't want someone to buy it out from under me if they happen to get to the dealership the day of delivery before me

Edit: Adding that I'll also be financing with the Toyota dealer through the automaker's lending arm

First time buying from a broker-style dealership here, so doing my due diligence to make sure this is legit, I figured those more in the know might be able to verify the legitimacy of this dealership or point out any red flags along the buying process so far. No glaring negative reviews, but there really aren't many to speak of, and some inconsistencies between the BBB registered owner names and the name of the claimed owner I've been speaking with.

This is the dealership/broker

I've been speaking with the business owner about buying a car from them but am not within driving distance of this location to verify for myself. The carfax reports on the car I'm interested in seem legitimate, and the dealer claims they get a lot of very nice cars in and out from the wealthy residents of the area- it seems like the Highlands/ Cashiers area of NC lines up with that claim pretty well.

Payment has been casually discussed but the dealership has not been overly pushy, has not specified wire transfers and the asking price seems to align with market values- no real alarm bells there. I'm paying with a mix of cash, financing and a trade-in.

Nothing has been formalized yet, but I've been sent a Bill of Sale that looks legitimate (but doesn't have the dealer's license number), and have been provided a scan of the original car owner's title that also looks legitimate but have no way to formally verify the title # against the NC DMV's records. Maybe there's a resource to do this that I'm just not aware of though?

My next steps here are to order a 3rd party PPI and to ask for both the dealer's license # and a copy of the agreement between the car's owner and the dealership allowing them to sell it.

Should I be doing more here to verify? I'm really overwhelmed by unfamiliarity of buying a car from this style of dealership so I would really appreciate some expert views or opinions here.

I’m going through a really difficult financial and emotional situation. I was robbed, I’m still dealing with losing my mom, and I honestly feel like I’m on the verge of a nervous breakdown. I just want to crawl under a rock and stop dealing with everything.
I can’t keep up with my car payments anymore, and I want to give the car back to the bank. How do I start that process? Do I call the lender and arrange to drop it off? What happens afterward, and could I still owe money?
If anyone has been through this, I’d appreciate hearing about your experience. I’m overwhelmed and just trying to figure out my next step.

Thinking about trading in my 2025 Civic Hybrid. I currently owe about $30k on it. There’s absolutely no issues other than a small scratch on the drivers side quarter panel and mileage is 48000kms. I’ve never had a decent car in my life to trade in before so I’m not sure on my best approach or strategy to get a most value, save taxes, etc. Likely to be seeking a slightly used Honda CRV or HRV. Advice welcome! Thanks